FED 2, Zorki 4, or MIR

[doggi31]

Hi all!

I am new to this forum, and would like to give rangefinders a try, particularly FSu models. i am looking to get my second rangefinder as my first FED3B is dead beyond repair (bought from evilbay). Will try my luck at evilbay for the second time to get some cheap FSU camera.

I am now facing a dilema, as there are 3 attractive deals for the models as mentioned above. I have done some digging and found the general consensus to be FED2.

I would like some recomendation as I dont want to regret my choice later on.

[Peter de Waal]

Get a Zorki-6. Same form factor as a classic Leica thread mount (135mm long, 76mm high) with indestructible one-piece cast body, bright combined RF/VF, VF diopter, no slow speeds as per Fed-2 (more reliable), lever wind. Weight 550g without lens. I picked one up a few months ago for $32 with case and an I-50. I also have a Fed-2, the Zorki-6 has a much brighter finder. It will probably need a service, as they stopped production of the Z-6 in 1965.

[Mr_Flibble]

I suggest getting a FSU camera from a renowned source. I haven't had much luck with any Russian camera from Ebay.

[doggi31]

Thanks for your suggestion. The Zorki ^ seems like a good choice, but I am much more into the design of FED2 or Zorki 4. They just have that unique look to them, which makes it much appealing!

I have bought an Olympus Trip35 from Ebay for cheaps before. That is why i would like to try my chances again. There are some local photographers who sell FSU cameras locally. Unfortunately, they do not carry the models that I like.

[Vostok]

Get a Fed 2, you won't be sorry. If you buy one that's in good condition and get it serviced by a professional in any shop in your area you'll have a really fine camera in your hands. I use slow speeds so I have a type D Fed 2. Again, if you take care of it and have it serviced when you buy it I don't think you'll have any problems with it in the future. They come with Industar lenses.

Zorki cameras have a brighter viewfinder and come with Jupiter lenses. They are quite good as well. Zorki 4 is a good choice.

[doggi31]

The FED2 that I am aiming for is as below. there are some minor wear and tear to the exterior, which is fine with me as I plan to refurbish it myself. I will be doing the calibration and cleaning myself as well.

There is a famous camera technician in Singapore who does reparation and restoration work on old cameras, particularly Leicas. However, he is reluctant to service FSU cameras. Been to his shop lately to repair my FED3B and he just turned me down without even looking at my camera.

[pakeha]

Moscow photo,cupog, bylanikov. a few sellers that are worth the gamble. Have purchased from these guys without problems. Or Fedka in U.S. i have had no dealings with them , many here say they are very good.
You are buying an old camera, expect the worst and you may end up surprised. manuals are all available online - get one. I would suggest buying a body that comes with a lens.
I f maintenance is an issue in Singapore then the Zorki 6 would be the option i would go to, for the reasons given by Peter. And welcome.
regards
CW

[doggi31]

Thanks for your suggestion!

The previous fed3 that I bought came with an industar 26m. I didn't check the shutter curtain. It was flaking badly. That seller don't do refund as well.

I have another decent industar 61 LD that I bought off eBay too. That's why I'm thinking of getting a body only.

[wolves3012]

The FED 2 is simple enough to work on yourself but so are most of the FSUs. It has the advantage of a wide-base RF. The Zorki 4 has the advantages of slower speeds, brighter VF and a proper flash-sync. If these things are important, go for that. The Mir is a Zorki 4 with no slow speeds and apart from collector reasons, I see no advantage to having one. Despite what you may read, the slow speeds on the Zorki 4 are not unreliable.

[GWT]

I have a FED 2 which I like very much, the cloth shutter is very quite. I've never used a Zorki although I have held a 4 which as wolves3012 said does have a bright VF, it also has a film advance lever apposed to the FED 2's winder knob.

I also have a Kiev 4 which is very nice.

[doggi31]

I am also incline towards FED2 myself. That is why I have bough it off fleabay.

Thank you all so much for your opinions! Hope to get the camera soon and start shooting!

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Indeed the FED 2 is nice, but... the Z6 has the nicest features and therefore standsout IMHO:
- much brighter view/rangefinder
- X-flash synch (FED 2, at least some types come with a synch for flash bulbs)
- winding lever

If pockablity is not a necessary feature than the Z3, Z4 or better a late Z4K comes to mind: has the nicest viewfinder IMHO of all Zorki's and the Z4K has of course the winding lever.

[Kent]

From all the Russian RF I have used, the Zorki-4 was/is the best one.
I have even two copies.

[jea69]

Originally Posted by Kent

From all the Russian RF I have used, the Zorki-4 was/is the best one.
I have even two copies.

Yeah, the zorki 4 is realy nice, classic look, easy to load film, easy to use.

bought one in really good shape at a fleemarket in krakow.

love using it.

greetings from norway.

[doggi31]

Thank you all for the recommendations.

I have received my fed 2 from Russia, and it looks rather good!

However, the vertical n horizontal alignment is way off. I have tried taking it apart following the guide and gave it a thorough cleaning. After which I did the calibration myself. I've manage to get the vertical alignment correct by loosening the rf finder. I'm wondering if there is any permanent solution to this, as the finder is so loose now, a feather touch will cause it to misalign.

I have also tried adjusting the rf screw and cam to get the close focus and infinity focus to align. The problem is that I can get either the close focus correct and lose the infinity focus. Or I get the infinity focus but loses the close focus. Any idea what can I do to correct this problem?

P.s: Kudos to Laika for the amazing guide on fed 2 rf servicing

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Originally Posted by doggi31

I'm wondering if there is any permanent solution to this, as the finder is so loose now, a feather touch will cause it to misalign.

I have also tried adjusting the rf screw and cam to get the close focus and infinity focus to align. The problem is that I can get either the close focus correct and lose the infinity focus. Or I get the infinity focus but loses the close focus. Any idea what can I do to correct this problem?

Many do fix this with nailpolish so that you can later remove it easily when required

the horizontal is first set to infinity, normally the the 4m and 1m should be ok, if not you should correct this by changing the position of the cam

[doggi31]

Seems like a good suggestion to use nail polish. Will give it a try!

I did the same thing by setting the infinity first, and checked the close focus. The close focus is still off. Adjusted the cam but still have the same results.

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by doggi31

I have also tried adjusting the rf screw and cam to get the close focus and infinity focus to align. The problem is that I can get either the close focus correct and lose the infinity focus. Or I get the infinity focus but loses the close focus. Any idea what can I do to correct this problem?

Getting the horizontal right is an iterative process of adjusting the pie-shaped sensor tip angle and the RF adjuster screw. You need to adjust for one end first with the RF screw, if the other is wrong then the sensor angle is wrong. Then you'll find the whole lot is out and the screw needs adjusting again. Keep going!

[Penny Lane]

As for the vertical adjustment: the bezel of the round RF window should unscrew, exposing two concentric brass rings. The outer holds the window assembly in place in the body, while the inner will rotate to adjust the RF for vertical alignment without the whole window coming loose. It's quite straight-forward, but the chrome bezel can be very tight! If you go this way, you shouldn't normally have to apply any extra security - though a spot of nail polish won't hurt either.

Derk

[doggi31]

The long awaited FED2 from Ebay.



It seems to be having some shutter problem as the right corner of the pictures seems overexposed. The left corner of the next frame is also affected by this. This only happens when the shutter speed is less than 1/125s. Will tightening the curtain tension solve this problem?

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by doggi31

The long awaited FED2 from Ebay.

It seems to be having some shutter problem as the right corner of the pictures seems overexposed. The left corner of the next frame is also affected by this. This only happens when the shutter speed is less than 1/125s. Will tightening the curtain tension solve this problem?

If you could post a scan of the negatives where this happens, it would be helpful. If the curtain tension were wrong, this should not affect the next frame and what you're describing sounds more like a light-leak somewhere. The most likely place for a light-leak on the FED 2 is where the back fits onto the body.

If the camera is faulty, are you able to return it to the seller?

[doggi31]

Well I didn't scan these negatives myself, so i can't show you where the problem is. Best I could do is to take a picture of the negative under a strong light. The strange thing is that only a few shots have the extra light leaks on the left corner, while the majority of shots under slower speeds have the shutter capping on the right.

[doggi31]

Also, it's not worth it to return to the seller. The shipping cost could easily cover the cost of another FED2.

[wolves3012]

If you have access to a CRT television, or better still computer monitor, you could try the CRT method of checking the shutter. It's best at higher speeds, over about 1/60th. Just get a white raster on the screen, take off the back and lens and fire the shutter while looking through the body. You should get parallel-sided sloping bands. If the sides don't slope equally (i.e. are not parallel) the shutter curtains are not travelling at the same speed. Likewise, capping can be seen by looking through the shutter at a bright light source (blue sky etc.). If there's capping, you'll see that part of the frame never gets light.

[doggi31]

Thanks wolves3012! Too bad that I have a roll of film in it right now. Guess I'll have to burn through this roll of film before I can give it a try. Even with all these problems, I've never been more in love with another camera. This old tank is AMAZING!