| FSU Former Soviet Union RF This forum is for the Former Soviet Union rangefinder cameras, especially the many and various Fed, Zorki, and Kiev. |
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My first rangefinder |
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10-15-2012
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#1
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Registered User
Mystyler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: WA
Posts: 126
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My first rangefinder
I have just recently purchased a FED-2, with apparently the Industar 50 3.5 "Export Version". I've put some Acros 100 in the camera and have taken 11 shots so far, if I have set the counter correctly!
I'm trying to work out what model I have. I've settled on either a 2C or 2D (leaning towards a D), but don't really know. For what it is worth, the self timer was originally pointing up, but as I thought they were supposed to point down, I "fixed" that. The previous owner, a massive Iron Curtain camera fan and photo fanantic, gave it a CLA before I bought it, I just figured he'd put the self timer lever on upside down...now I'm not so sure?
Here are some pictures, complete with retina-searing commie-red background.
FED-2 by Mystyler13, on Flickr
FED-2 Back by Mystyler13, on Flickr
Industar 50 3.5 by Mystyler13, on Flickr
FED-2 Top by Mystyler13, on Flickr
Communist PaRtY!! by Mystyler13, on Flickr
Thinking about a "better" lens, but I have yet to see the results from this one. I could stretch a Jupiter-3, but realistically I'd be financially happier spending $50+ on either the Industar 26m or Jupiter-8 if they are worth it over this little lens.
__________________
Olympus OM-1N MD; C-5050Z; E-500; E-5; Hanimex 35SP; 110IF; ФЭД-2; Canon AF35M; Bronica EC
More E-System lenses and accessories than I'll ever use.
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10-15-2012
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#2
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Registered User
wolves3012 is offline
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wolverhampton, UK
Age: 56
Posts: 2,406
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Welcome to FSU-land, for starters! That's a nice looking FED 2 and you're right - the self-timer originally was positioned as you have it. The Industar 50 is a pretty sharp lens, you should find. Main reason for a J-3 is the need for speed, otherwise it has a similar look to the (cheaper) J-8. Both come out a bit softer looking than I-50/I-26m, especially wide open (not least because of the max aperture difference).
The I-26m is also only really worth it for an increase in speed. Personally I think it has a very similar look to the results compared to the I-50, although the 26m is perhaps a little more contrasty.
Why not try it out as it is for now, see if you like the results and if the I-50 proves too limiting at f/3.5?
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Zorki: 1e (x2), 2C, 3M, 4, 4K, 5, 6
FED: NKVD, 1g, 2e, 3a, 3b, 4L (x2), 5B, 5C
Kiev 4, 4A
Leica IIIC
Yashica Minister III
Zenith C, Zenit C, Zenit E
Minolta XG M, Z1
Nikon P50
"The way to see by faith is to shut the eye of reason."- Benjamin Franklin
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10-16-2012
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#3
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Registered User
Aapo is offline
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nordic
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystyler
I have just recently purchased a FED-2, with apparently the Industar 50 3.5 "Export Version". I've put some Acros 100 in the camera and have taken 11 shots so far, if I have set the counter correctly!
I'm trying to work out what model I have. I've settled on either a 2C or 2D (leaning towards a D), but don't really know.
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First congrats for having fabulous camera. Secondly you seem to be right that it's 2D. Great source and my favourite for similar problems is sovietcams.com http://www.sovietcams.com/index.php?1883986375
Details which support 2D and PE0465 is speed sequence (I looked "your" speeds from this http://www.flickr.com/photos/e-system/8090163382/ ) and most important serial number gives you a lot.
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10-16-2012
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#4
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Registered User
Mystyler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: WA
Posts: 126
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G'day guys, thanks for the welcome.
I am certainly going to see how the shots come out with the Industar 50 before I go running off parting with more of my hard-earned. If it really is all it is cracked up to be, and I haven't yet seen anywhere on the 'net giving it a bad name, it would have to be one of the most under-rated, unassuming lenses of all time!
Thanks Aapo, it does look like a D, maybe even a PE0470 as I have noticed mine does not have the decorative marking around the viewfinder. So I will say I have a 2D!
I noticed today that my RF might be just a bit out. Seems ok at close distances - in fact, quite accurate, but I decided to take a picture of another aeroplane passing us in flight today at about 6Km. Now, it will just turn out to be a small speck on the film, but I noticed that when I focussed, there were two images of this aeroplane a few mm apart in my viewfinder. I looked up this thread by you, wolves3012: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=73900 and it seems like an easy enough job to calibrate but I'm worried about spares availability should I stuff something up. Would a decent camera shop know what they are doing with these things, or is it better to DIY?
Thanks again!
Oh yes, I also got my second rangefinder on the same day - the guy who sold it to me must have around 100 cameras, and we sat down and had coffee and then before I left he gave me a fully functional Canon AF35M! Incredible!
__________________
Olympus OM-1N MD; C-5050Z; E-500; E-5; Hanimex 35SP; 110IF; ФЭД-2; Canon AF35M; Bronica EC
More E-System lenses and accessories than I'll ever use.
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10-16-2012
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#5
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Registered User
awbphotog is offline
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Age: 24
Posts: 188
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That Canon AF35M is a complete and absolute GEM. One of my peers in college used to use one and she had some fantastic results. I believe she printed around 20x24 for most of her finals, and they looked sharp and contrasty. Great finds!
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My blog: HERE!
Bessa R
Canon 5D
Fuji G690BL
Pentax MV-1
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10-16-2012
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#6
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Registered User
Mystyler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: WA
Posts: 126
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So I read, I can't believe it. Pretty well everywhere on the 'net has something good to say about the results you can get from the AF35M. I'm thinking about putting in some reversal film and just going nuts with it.
__________________
Olympus OM-1N MD; C-5050Z; E-500; E-5; Hanimex 35SP; 110IF; ФЭД-2; Canon AF35M; Bronica EC
More E-System lenses and accessories than I'll ever use.
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10-16-2012
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#7
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Registered User
awbphotog is offline
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Age: 24
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystyler
So I read, I can't believe it. Pretty well everywhere on the 'net has something good to say about the results you can get from the AF35M. I'm thinking about putting in some reversal film and just going nuts with it.
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That's the right idea! I've been so darn close to buying one because of the work I've seen made with it, only to talk myself out of it because I've already got too many rangefinders. Again, enjoy and please post results with either camera as soon as you get them! 
__________________
My blog: HERE!
Bessa R
Canon 5D
Fuji G690BL
Pentax MV-1
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10-16-2012
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#8
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Registered User
Mystyler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: WA
Posts: 126
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I certainly will. I don't have a scanner (yet) but I'll just get the lab to do it when I send the film in for processing. 
__________________
Olympus OM-1N MD; C-5050Z; E-500; E-5; Hanimex 35SP; 110IF; ФЭД-2; Canon AF35M; Bronica EC
More E-System lenses and accessories than I'll ever use.
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10-16-2012
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#9
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Registered User
wolves3012 is offline
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wolverhampton, UK
Age: 56
Posts: 2,406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystyler
I noticed today that my RF might be just a bit out. Seems ok at close distances - in fact, quite accurate, but I decided to take a picture of another aeroplane passing us in flight today at about 6Km. Now, it will just turn out to be a small speck on the film, but I noticed that when I focussed, there were two images of this aeroplane a few mm apart in my viewfinder. I looked up this thread by you, wolves3012: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=73900 and it seems like an easy enough job to calibrate but I'm worried about spares availability should I stuff something up.
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If you follow the instructions, it's pretty hard to stuff it up and you won't break anything anyway - you'll just end up with the RF out of whack. See that screw under the "E" of the FED logo on the front? Take it out, the infinity adjuster lives behind it. You'll need a very small, jewellers-type, flat-blade screwdriver to adjust the RF.
I'd adjust the infinity first and re-check close-up, you may find that's enough to put it right. If not, you'll need to do the whole process but it sounds like it's not far out.
__________________
Zorki: 1e (x2), 2C, 3M, 4, 4K, 5, 6
FED: NKVD, 1g, 2e, 3a, 3b, 4L (x2), 5B, 5C
Kiev 4, 4A
Leica IIIC
Yashica Minister III
Zenith C, Zenit C, Zenit E
Minolta XG M, Z1
Nikon P50
"The way to see by faith is to shut the eye of reason."- Benjamin Franklin
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10-16-2012
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#10
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scott kessler
grapejohnson is offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: altoona, pennsylvania
Age: 25
Posts: 390
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Absolutely go for the Jupiter-8. It's cheap, both soft sharp, fast, great color rendition and has wonderful bokeh. The industar 61 (10 blade panda version at least) is also a sharp, contrasty venerable performer as well. Weird color sometimes, but great for b&w. I love em both! For $60 you could probably get both of them.
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unintentional thread killer
flickr
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10-20-2012
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#11
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Registered User
Mystyler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: WA
Posts: 126
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Thanks wolves3012, I've just put my first roll of film in, should get it back Monday. Will see how it turned out (I know there are a few stuff ups on that roll), before I get my jewller's screw drivers out...actually they sitting right here on the desk...!
grapejohnson, I'll keep and eye out at the camera swap meet coming up soon, if not I'll hit the 'bay for a Jupiter-8 if the price is right, even just to ensure I've got a spare lens for my FED kicking around. I was surprised at how many aperture blades the 50 has. I think my Zuikos only have six!
__________________
Olympus OM-1N MD; C-5050Z; E-500; E-5; Hanimex 35SP; 110IF; ФЭД-2; Canon AF35M; Bronica EC
More E-System lenses and accessories than I'll ever use.
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