| SLRs - the unRF For those of you who must talk about SLRs, if only to confirm they are not RF. |
10-20-2012
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#2851
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Registered User
TXForester is offline
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alba, Texas
Posts: 1,080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreed2006
I'm spot metering each scene and setting the exposure for the shadows, then taking notes on the meter readings and predicting which of the development methods will give the best results.
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I'm a bit confused here why you are using different bodies other than convenience. What controls have have you set up for differences in metering (differences in meter patterns between bodies, meters out of tolerances, etc.)? Are you using a different EI (setting the ASA dial to different ASA) to match exposures between cameras regardless of the meter reading? I'm just curious, so asking the questions I'd ask myself. Feel free to ignore me. 
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Bender: I support and oppose many things, but not strongly enough to pick up a pen.
“Democracy is the art and science of running the circus from the monkey-cage.” ― H.L. Mencken
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10-20-2012
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#2852
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Registered User
sreed2006 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXForester
I'm a bit confused here why you are using different bodies other than convenience. What controls have have you set up for differences in metering (differences in meter patterns between bodies, meters out of tolerances, etc.)? Are you using a different EI (setting the ASA dial to different ASA) to match exposures between cameras regardless of the meter reading? I'm just curious, so asking the questions I'd ask myself. Feel free to ignore me. 
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I won't ignore you, since those are good questions. All of this is just for my education so it takes a lot of extra steps to take the pictures in a way that I will learn something useful, and that includes getting the meter readings done accurately.
After the first camera has been set up on the tripod and the composition chosen, I make a sketch of the scene in a notebook.
Then I use a handheld spot meter to do all of the metering of the scene, and record that on the sketch (the significant readings, anyway). Then I choose the shutter speed and aperture that will give me a Zone III at the selected shadow area, and write that down.
The OM-1n and OM-3Ti are manual cameras, and I put the OM-4s and the OM-2n into Manual mode. All five cameras get set to the same shutter speed and the lenses get set to the same aperture and focus distance for each five-shot sequence. One problem with this is if the light changes due to clouds, then the careful metering goes out the window - so I try only to take pictures when the light will stay constant.
As for shutter speed differences, all I can say is that John Hermanson serviced all but the OM-3Ti, so they are is in as good a shape as they can be. I don't expect that the shutter speeds are exactly the same, but they are within tolerance.
Since all five negatives are exposed exactly the same (within tolerance), the only difference in the negative's contrast should be due to the development. I look forward to getting there.
Zone System Study Kit, 2 by sreed2006, on Flickr
Zone System Study, 3 by sreed2006, on Flickr
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Sid
My favorite question is "What does this button do?"
Last edited by sreed2006 : 10-20-2012 at 07:41.
Reason: Added picture. Added another picture.
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10-20-2012
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#2853
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Registered User
TXForester is offline
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alba, Texas
Posts: 1,080
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Thanks for the answer and showing me I was having senior moment (early onset senility  ). I've done something similar using a handheld meter or a meter from a third camera to evaluate differences in two other cameras. Don't know why I didn't think of using a handheld meter as the control. [/ insert Home Simpson D'oh! ]
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Bender: I support and oppose many things, but not strongly enough to pick up a pen.
“Democracy is the art and science of running the circus from the monkey-cage.” ― H.L. Mencken
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10-20-2012
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#2854
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Registered User
wblynch is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 482
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Do you want to borrow 3 more?
Let me know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by sreed2006
I knew I forgot something.
Actually, I am using two 50/1.8 lenses. One stays on the OM-3Ti so that the mount plate is not getting all scratched up. The remaining cameras share another 50/1.8 lens.
So far, I have not found a way to swap the 50/1.8 lens from one body to another without moving either the focus ring, the aperture ring, or both. So, it all has to be reset before the shutter fires. I don't recommend this as a day-to-day method of taking photographs. 
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10-20-2012
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#2855
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Registered User
wblynch is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 482
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Nice start Pgadler. It's a beautiful set.
Welcome to the asylum.
-Bill L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgadler
Well, You've got to start somewhere to someday possibly reach the impressive gear line-ups in this thread. And this is all Your fault.... :-)
I started reading this thread, and have just required an OM-2n with 50/1.4.

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10-20-2012
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#2856
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Registered User
sreed2006 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wblynch
Do you want to borrow 3 more?
Let me know...
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Actually, by using the same lens on several cameras, with the same settings, I hope to eliminate any variables. It's kind of a pain, but not that bad.
Thank you for the offer, though, it's kind of you.
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Sid
My favorite question is "What does this button do?"
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10-20-2012
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#2857
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Registered User
sreed2006 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXForester
Thanks for the answer and showing me I was having senior moment (early onset senility  ). I've done something similar using a handheld meter or a meter from a third camera to evaluate differences in two other cameras. Don't know why I didn't think of using a handheld meter as the control. [/ insert Home Simpson D'oh! ]
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Getting the metering right is tricky. Someone posted here awhile back the old saying, "A man with one watch always knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." I figure it's the same with light meters - that's why I just use one meter for this study.
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Sid
My favorite question is "What does this button do?"
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10-20-2012
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#2858
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Waiting on Maitani
Trius is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Rochester, NY & Toronto area
Posts: 7,828
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Sid, that's a good strategy for this exercise. I know very little about calibrating meters, but I do know that a meter calibration is only good for a certain range of EVs. That is, calibrating from say EV 4 to 13 may yield different results than EV 1 to 10. IOW, most meters are not linear over their entire exposure range. At least that's my understanding.
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10-20-2012
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#2859
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Real Men Shoot Film.
Chriscrawfordphoto is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Age: 37
Posts: 5,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trius
Sid, that's a good strategy for this exercise. I know very little about calibrating meters, but I do know that a meter calibration is only good for a certain range of EVs. That is, calibrating from say EV 4 to 13 may yield different results than EV 1 to 10. IOW, most meters are not linear over their entire exposure range. At least that's my understanding.
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They are if properly calibrated that is not an issue. Getting them calibrated correctly was hard in the old days of meters that read with moving needles, and what you said was often true, but modern digital meters can be and should be absolutely perfect across the whole range.
I have a Minolta Autometer IIIf, a Minolta Flash Meter IV and a Minolta Flash Meter VI. They match each other perfectly, not even 1/10 stop difference. Not only do they agree with each other, but I've shot with slide film in all light levels with them and never had an imperfect exposure.
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10-21-2012
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#2860
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Registered User
Ade-oh is offline
Join Date: May 2007
Location: London and Ludlow
Posts: 566
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__________________
Keep it simple!
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10-23-2012
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#2861
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Registered User
bgb is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Zealand
Age: 56
Posts: 934
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I have seen a OM-4 for sale here in NZ at what appears to be a good price and as you do I have been considering adopting it. Do all OM-4s use batteries at a high rate or is it just some, or only from a certain serial number? This one is a plain OM-4 not Ti or anything like that.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics...-526374231.htm
If no one knows I'll just ask the seller but of course he might not tell me the whole truth!
I'm sure it has been mentioned somewhere in the last 115 pages but I don't want to have to read them all 
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Brian
“No coffee, no prana” — Guruji
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10-23-2012
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#2862
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Registered User
wblynch is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 482
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If the battery check beep goes silent after 30 seconds or so, it has the updated circuitry.
You can remove the batteries when not in use.
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10-23-2012
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#2863
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Registered User
bgb is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Zealand
Age: 56
Posts: 934
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That's what I remember reading ... Thanks
I had an OM-2 SP and it ate batteries like they were lollies :-( Don't really want to go through that again.
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Brian
“No coffee, no prana” — Guruji
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10-25-2012
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#2864
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Hexaneur
kanzlr is offline
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Vienna (Austria)
Age: 32
Posts: 805
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I thought she deserved new clothes
I have to admit that the ring light makes the blue flashier than it is. In reality it looks a lot more conservative.
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11-05-2012
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#2865
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Registered User
maxwell1295 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
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__________________
Canon EOS 3, Kiev 4 & 4a, Olympus OM-1
Pentax 6x7, Polaroid 340, Rollei 35S, Rollei 35,
Yashica Mat 124G, Zeiss Ikon Nettar 518/16
My Website
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11-07-2012
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#2866
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n00b
defconfunk is offline
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 91
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There's a lot of love here for the single digit bodies. I recently purchased an OM-40 for $25.
I definitely like the handling of the OM-40. I took it on vacation for two weeks. I'm looking forward to seeing the results.
Anyone else using the consumer grade OMs?
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11-07-2012
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#2867
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Registered User
wblynch is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defconfunk
There's a lot of love here for the single digit bodies. I recently purchased an OM-40 for $25.
I definitely like the handling of the OM-40. I took it on vacation for two weeks. I'm looking forward to seeing the results.
Anyone else using the consumer grade OMs?
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I have the OM-PC/40. I love the ESP metering for slide film. Never get a bad exposure.
I prefer Auto mode to the Program mode. It suits me better.
I also have OM-10's and gave away my OM-G.
I love the consumer grade OM's. They are great and reliable. Typically lightly used and low priced.
-Bill
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11-07-2012
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#2868
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Registered User
parkpy is offline
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
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Has anyone heard from John Hermanson in a while? I emailed him a couple times last week before I realized that he lived in an area Hurricane Sandy went through. I hope he's okay!
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11-07-2012
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#2869
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Registered User
sreed2006 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkpy
Has anyone heard from John Hermanson in a while? I emailed him a couple times last week before I realized that he lived in an area Hurricane Sandy went through. I hope he's okay!
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I sent him an email last week and have not heard back, yet.
There are still a lot of power outages on Long Island, and around Huntington, but I have no information on whether or not he is still without power. [ http://www.lipower.org/stormcenter/outagemap.html]
I sure do hope he and his neighbors get through all this safely and securely.
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Sid
My favorite question is "What does this button do?"
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11-09-2012
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#2870
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Registered User
Noll is offline
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 257
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Question, does anyone know of a good tutorial on removing the top plate of an OM-1 ? I suspect mine has the rotting foam issue and want to get a handle on it soon.
Shot on Kodak Gold 100, Dwaynes Photo scan, probably used the 50 f1.8...
Pulling sediment cores from small, muddy lakes...
Somewhere in the Chequamegon Nicolet forest

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11-09-2012
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#2871
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Hexaneur
kanzlr is offline
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Vienna (Austria)
Age: 32
Posts: 805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noll
Question, does anyone know of a good tutorial on removing the top plate of an OM-1 ? I suspect mine has the rotting foam issue and want to get a handle on it soon.
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http://olympus.dementix.org/Hardware...val/index.html
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11-09-2012
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#2872
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Registered User
Noll is offline
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanzlr
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Thank you! I have been to this website before but never saw this page about removing the top plate.
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11-10-2012
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#2873
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Registered User
sreed2006 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 502
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If I ever load up five cameras again to do side-by-side comparison shots with them, it will NOT be 36 exposure rolls. That's too many frames to do in a reasonable amount of time.
Today, after a few more identical shots with the 5 OM cameras, I just took each of them out one at a time and took the 5 or 6 remaining frames on each roll. Tomorrow I develop the 5 rolls: one at N-1, one at N-2, one at N, one at N+1 and one at N+2. The end of this project is near! It started in July.
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Sid
My favorite question is "What does this button do?"
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11-12-2012
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#2874
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Registered User
sreed2006 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkpy
Has anyone heard from John Hermanson in a while? I emailed him a couple times last week before I realized that he lived in an area Hurricane Sandy went through. I hope he's okay!
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I received an email from John this morning (Monday, November 12, 2012).
The power is back on, after 12 days without since hurricane Sandy.
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Sid
My favorite question is "What does this button do?"
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11-12-2012
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#2875
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Registered User
Ade-oh is offline
Join Date: May 2007
Location: London and Ludlow
Posts: 566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreed2006
I received an email from John this morning (Monday, November 12, 2012).
The power is back on, after 12 days without since hurricane Sandy.
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That's good news. Is he OK?
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