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Old 10-22-2012   #26
paulfish4570
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i seek to photograph the things not seen.

" ... faith is the assurance of things hoped for, the conviction of things not seen." Hebrews 11-1
"One eye sees. The other eye feels." - Paul Klee
"... For the things that are seen are transient, but the things that are unseen are eternal." - apostle Paul, 2 Corinthians, 4:18
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Old 10-22-2012   #27
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i seek to photograph the things not seen.

" ... faith is the assurance of things hoped for, the conviction of things not seen." Hebrews 11-1
"One eye sees. The other eye feels." - Paul Klee
"... For the things that are seen are transient, but the things that are unseen are eternal." - apostle Paul, 2 Corinthians, 4:18
"Film will only become art when it's materials are as inexpensive as pencil and paper." - Jean Cocteau

http://blackcreekjournal.blogspot.com/
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Old 10-22-2012   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto View Post
Peter, you should not need to increase developing time, your photos are way too contrasty. Shooting in bright sun makes it worse, and you should be reducing the time to lower the contrast.

11 minutes at 68 degrees for Rodinal 1+50, shot at EI-320 should work perfectly for overcast light, and 8.5 minutes (with exposure at EI-160) should be great for harsh sun. How long are you developing for?
My histogram shows underexposure, but with high peaks in the mid-tones and shadow. (is that contrasty... several high peaks?)

Yet the negatives look thin on my light table.. (Daylight bulbs, less than a year old box by Porta-Trace).

With Rodinal, just few months. I don't do stand, but have been using 1:25 most of the time. So, use 1:50. Well, I shoot in Sun, Shade, Overcast on the same roll. And I have one film camera, so, I can't shoot one for SUN, and one for Shadow/Overcast.

I guess I need to do a test with you EI suggestions on the same roll for those lighting situations. And, stay with the base time.

So, use ISO 320 for Shadow/Overcast, and ISO 160 for Bright Sun on the same roll. I could use the EC "+1" for Bright Sun. Same as changing the ISO Dial from 320>160. It is a one hand operation with the FE. Where changing ISO is a 2 hand operation.
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Old 10-22-2012   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNG View Post
My histogram shows underexposure, but with high peaks in the mid-tones and shadow. (is that contrasty... several high peaks?)

Yet the negatives look thin on my light table.. (Daylight bulbs, less than a year old box by Porta-Trace).

With Rodinal, just few months. I don't do stand, but have been using 1:25 most of the time. So, use 1:50. Well, I shoot in Sun, Shade, Overcast on the same roll. And I have one film camera, so, I can't shoot one for SUN, and one for Shadow/Overcast.

I guess I need to do a test with you EI suggestions on the same roll for those lighting situations. And, stay with the base time.

So, use ISO 320 for Shadow/Overcast, and ISO 160 for Bright Sun on the same roll. I could use the EC "+1" for Bright Sun. Same as changing the ISO Dial from 320>160. It is a one hand operation with the FE. Where changing ISO is a 2 hand operation.
No, not on the same roll. The reason for the different film speeds for sun and overcast is that you have to adjust the DEVELOPING TIME to change the contrast, and the shorter developing time used for photos done in contrasty light causes the film's effective speed to drop a stop.
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Old 10-22-2012   #30
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Triplets in Motion
M7, Summicron 35 asph, Arista Premium (Tri-X) in f76+


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M7, Macro Elmar 90, Arista Premium (Tri-X) in f76+
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Old 10-22-2012   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto View Post
Peter, you should not need to increase developing time, your photos are way too contrasty. Shooting in bright sun makes it worse, and you should be reducing the time to lower the contrast.

11 minutes at 68 degrees for Rodinal 1+50, shot at EI-320 should work perfectly for overcast light, and 8.5 minutes (with exposure at EI-160) should be great for harsh sun. How long are you developing for?
I'm so glad this has come up because I've been using Rodinal 1+50 & I haven't been pleased at all. Too grainy for my taste for the photo's I shot. I been shooting in bright sunlight @ box speed & dev. @ 12 mins. I'm gonna try these times & EI.
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Old 10-22-2012   #32
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@chris
I never answered your question...
I use 13min @ 20c. The base is 10m @ 20c for Rodinal 1:35 for Arista 400.
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Old 10-22-2012   #33
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this picture looks like a drawing when shot at f1.4
Contax AX with Planar 85f1.4

Developed 2 rolls of trix-400 in 20ml of Rodinal and 600ml of water.
Developed at 30c for 5.5mins.
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Old 10-22-2012   #34
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Nice shots all around. I love using this film but I always label it as Tri-X so I don't know in my digital scans what I've shot with this and the real Tri-X.
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Old 10-22-2012   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNG View Post
@chris
I never answered your question...
I use 13min @ 20c. The base is 10m @ 20c for Rodinal 1:35 for Arista 400.
Yeah, that's way too long. Even shooting in soft light, Tri-X/Arista Premium 400 developed 13 minutes at the 1+35 concentration would be almost a two-stop push. Starting out in very contrasty light and doing that would make bulletproof negs!

1+35 is an unusual dilution, why do you use that instead of the more common 1+50 or 1+25?
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Old 10-22-2012   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gb hill View Post
I'm so glad this has come up because I've been using Rodinal 1+50 & I haven't been pleased at all. Too grainy for my taste for the photo's I shot. I been shooting in bright sunlight @ box speed & dev. @ 12 mins. I'm gonna try these times & EI.
Cool, I'm glad to help. Let us know how it works. I haven't developed any Tri-X in Rodinal in a couple years, but those times and exposures worked great when i did.

Here is one I shot with the lower contrast time (8.5 minutes, EI-160, 68 degree and 1+50)

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Old 10-22-2012   #37
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Old 10-22-2012   #38
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The only black and white film I shoot.
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Old 10-23-2012   #39
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I'm a bit new to all this. I'm about to buy a bunch of film and start developing black and white at home. I've got ID11 as developer. What can I expect if I buy a bunch of Arista Premium? Should I go with a different developer?
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Old 10-23-2012   #40
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Exposed at 400 iso, developed in ID11 1+3 for 22m at 20c, continuous rotary agitation.
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Old 10-23-2012   #41
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The chook run seller. Exposed at iso 250, developed in ID11 1+3 25m at 20c, continuous rotary processing.
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Old 10-23-2012   #42
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Exposed at 400 iso, developed in ID11 1+3 for 22m at 20c, continuous rotary agitation.
Love this one
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Old 10-23-2012   #43
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Thanks. You'll do fine with ID11. At 1+3 it seems pretty forgiving on iso and development. Expose at EI 400 if you like a more contrasty result (generally), or EI 250 to put a bit more detail in the shadows.
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Old 10-23-2012   #44
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hc-110 dilution h, probably 10 minutes at 75F, or 10.5 minutes at 72F. f1.4, pentax-m 50/1.4.

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i seek to photograph the things not seen.

" ... faith is the assurance of things hoped for, the conviction of things not seen." Hebrews 11-1
"One eye sees. The other eye feels." - Paul Klee
"... For the things that are seen are transient, but the things that are unseen are eternal." - apostle Paul, 2 Corinthians, 4:18
"Film will only become art when it's materials are as inexpensive as pencil and paper." - Jean Cocteau

http://blackcreekjournal.blogspot.com/
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Old 10-23-2012   #45
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@Chris
I don't know, I use 1:25 mostly with HP5.
A whim I guess...

we have lots of rain today (as you do also), so a cloudy day it will be.
I can do a roll at EI 320 and 11m @ 20c, 1:50 (which is in between the times on MDC App, for EI-200 (9m) and EI-400 (13m) ... I think I see a pattern here.
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OK, With Chris's Advice on reseting my Workflow.
Old 10-23-2012   #46
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OK, With Chris's Advice on reseting my Workflow.

  • Nikon FE, Nikon 24mm f/2.8 AiS
  • Arista Premium 400 @ 320,
  • Rodinal 1:50 @ 11m @ 20c (Really 10.08m @ 21c, according to the Massive Developer Chart auto temp adjust)
  • 30s 1st Agitation followed by 15s every minute
  • I may have over sharpened a little
Results Follow: Heavy Overcast day. I was in and out of rain while out shooting.

Overall, very pleased with these.
Thanks Chris for the "Reset"






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Old 10-23-2012   #47
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Old 10-23-2012   #48
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i seek to photograph the things not seen.

" ... faith is the assurance of things hoped for, the conviction of things not seen." Hebrews 11-1
"One eye sees. The other eye feels." - Paul Klee
"... For the things that are seen are transient, but the things that are unseen are eternal." - apostle Paul, 2 Corinthians, 4:18
"Film will only become art when it's materials are as inexpensive as pencil and paper." - Jean Cocteau

http://blackcreekjournal.blogspot.com/
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Old 10-23-2012   #49
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Escher Escalators by Chemophilic, on Flickr

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Old 10-23-2012   #50
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[IMG]
00130132 by KentWebb,


[IMG]
00130032 by KentWebb,


[IMG]
00130096 by KentWebb, on Flickr[/IMG]

First two shot on an Olympus OM-4T and 35mm f/2 lens.
Last pic done on a Pentax K1000 w 100mm f/2.8 lens
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