Flash for M4-2 and M6 TTL
Old 04-18-2017   #1
roscoetuff
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Flash for M4-2 and M6 TTL

Yes a zillionth flash inquiry. Thinking of one unit that would work with both M's. Suppose that's not rocket science. As more of a natural light guy, I'm kind of buffaloed by the whole flash scene... and need to bite the bullet and learn it as a tool, but not make it my specialty. Bounce, fill, supplement... that's about it. If a modern flash will excel, I'm in favor of it.

Looked Leica SF24, and Metz's newer stuff: Mecablitz 36 C-2 and earlier 20 c-2 (now discontinued). I see the 26 AF-2 looks remarkably like a Leica badged unit, but there's some noise it's not compatible with M's unless you buy the Leica badged unit? Maybe it's wishful thinking to try to get one unit that could be used for both cameras? I've seen folks suggest Vivitar - which I've had waaaaaaaaaaaay back, but figured there'd be something newer, better?

Suggestions welcome. Thanks!
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Last edited by roscoetuff : 04-18-2017 at 04:23. Reason: Added stuff
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Old 04-18-2017   #2
Ong
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Leica SF20 would work with TTL on the M6.
Sadly the M4-2 does not have any TTL ability, but on the plus side basically any* flash will work. I run the SF20 on the M4-2 no problem.

The SF24 I believe is made for the newer digital leicas IIRC.
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Old 04-18-2017   #3
Ko.Fe.
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M4-2 has no TTL just normal hotshoe. So, any flash from film era will works. Some have more less auto mode. Set the ISO of the film, set distance range and results are going to be OK.

Where are some stories and threads how Nikon flashes where adapted via next to not existing adapter. And how Metz flashes works with TTL on M6 TTL.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...d.php?t=153080


SF 24D is reported to works with M6 TTL, M7. But I'm not sure, if it is possible to bounce it or it is limited to the straight forward only and it is not using AAA, AA batteries.
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Old 04-18-2017   #4
Godfrey
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When I had the M6TTL, I used a Leica SF20. It works with the M6TTL flash metering system, but frankly I never saw much benefit from it. So I used it in auto mode using its own light sensor, or manual mode. It works fine with the M4-2 using its own light sensor or manual output.

Nowadays, I have a Nikon SB-30 which does the same with my SL, M-D typ 262, and M4-2, as well as the Leicaflex SL using a hotshoe to PC connecter gizmo. Most of the time, however, I use the flash with a Cactus V2 RF trigger so I can get it off the camera.

(I've not found TTL flash to be all that advantageous with any camera system unless I was doing macrophotography or working with longer focal length lenses.)

G
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Old 04-21-2017   #5
roscoetuff
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I like the idea of off camera flash. Like the idea of triggers even more. Cactus V2's seem long gone, and they're up to Cactus V5 with a list of incompatibilities out the wazoo. PC connetor gizmos and all... might be plug until you play. Probably have to get a hold of a store dude for some guidance on cobbling something together. Like the idea of the Nikon SB28's... or similar. But I'm wondering whether the attraction in the Leica nameplate flash is size, nameplate, or what? Looks to be a mostly on-camera item by design? Thanks for the info. Much to mull over. Sticking with "available light" (read: UNAVAILABLE Light) for now... until I get this figured out.

FWIW, here's the Matt Day video that pops the idea for starting down this road (and not cranking a $600 unit): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHL-WplrXSo
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Old 04-21-2017   #6
Godfrey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoetuff View Post
I like the idea of off camera flash. Like the idea of triggers even more. Cactus V2's seem long gone, and they're up to Cactus V5 with a list of incompatibilities out the wazoo. PC connetor gizmos and all... might be plug until you play. Probably have to get a hold of a store dude for some guidance on cobbling something together. Like the idea of the Nikon SB28's... or similar. But I'm wondering whether the attraction in the Leica nameplate flash is size, nameplate, or what? Looks to be a mostly on-camera item by design? Thanks for the info. Much to mull over. Sticking with "available light" (read: UNAVAILABLE Light) for now... until I get this figured out.

FWIW, here's the Matt Day video that pops the idea for starting down this road (and not cranking a $600 unit): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHL-WplrXSo
I have a full set of Cactus V5s as well. They work fine with my M-D, M4-2, Leicaflex SL (with adapter), and SL. They have also worked fine with my Olympus E-5, E-1, E-M1, and Panasonic L1, as well as my Nikon D750 and F (with adapter). Regards flash units, they've worked very well with the Nikon SB-30 (I bought it because it was small and had manual adjustability), Sunpak 444D, Olympus FL-36, and Paterson E-Lite Flash Panels.

The primary appeal of the Leica branded flash units is:
a) TTL flash control (as I said, mostly useful for macro and telephoto work)
b) HSS capability (ability to use flash with short exposures at reduced output)

Leica themselves don't offer it, but you can obtain a wired, off-camera, dedicated control of the Leica branded flash units by using a Nikon-dedicated TTL flash cable. The Leica and Nikon flash protocols are not compatible, but the pinouts on their hot shoes and the matching cable are identical. As far as I'm aware (and I haven't really looked), no one is making a Leica-dedicated TTL RF remote trigger as yet.

It all sounds complicated, but honestly it isn't. There are only a few things to understand, and a few bits to buy, and it all makes pretty logical sense once you get over the hurdle of understanding flash and flash control. I learned all this stuff more than thirty years ago and it's never changed, other than the constant battle of figuring out exactly which flash is compatible with what body. Youtube videos didn't exist then ... You just opened the owner's instruction manual and read how to make it work...

G
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Old 04-26-2017   #7
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Godfrey: Thanks! for helping decode this thing. So I've just ordered a Nikon SB-30, manual and DUO Cactus V5 Triggers from KEH. G-Total: $80. Should take care of bidness. Next step will be to figure a way to mount the flash on one of my light stands. But Gaffer tape will do for now. Thanks again!
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Old 05-02-2017   #8
roscoetuff
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So my gear's just come in... Nikon SB30 and Cactus V5 triggers. I assume whether we're using camera mounted or off-camera (using the Cactus V5), we're plugging a PC sync cable into the camera back. Folks have made me a bit skittish for probably no good reason... so if this seems a stupid question... I'll admit to being stoopid.

I've read enough here to see that folks are pretty adamant that even with a TTL M camera, we pretty much want to use the PC sync cables. Have I got that right? And are there any other traps or tricks I need to know to blow out a circuit board on the M6 TTL, or otherwise screw up an M4-2? 'preciate any encouragement. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-09-2017   #9
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Well I come late to the party but here's my experience. I use an SF24D with my M6TTL with which I am very happy. It's super easy to use and the results are great. The lack of bounce capability may be a problem to some, but I don't mind. I particularly like that there is no pre-flash for the TTL to work. I hated that on my Canon flash for my 1N. The TTL effectively makes the camera to a point and shoot, great for spontaneous street or party shots.

But it won't of course work with any Leica that doesn't have the proper hotshoe since it doesn't have a cable.

For my M4 I use an old 5 Euro Panasonic flash which has a standard sync cable. The auto function is usually good enough. It's not rocket science to follow the little chart on the unit but I prefer the simplicity of the SF24D so use the M6TTL for flash photography.

As for off camera use there are posts over at LUF describing using Nikon cables.

I found my SF24D used at Peter Loy in London for about 100 GBP. I've seen the SF20 for less and it's also, from what I understand, a very competent little flash.

br
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Old 05-09-2017   #10
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I'm not sure why you would use the PC sync cables. I just slide my flash or trigger into the hot shoe ... always have, never a problem. One of the reasons I chose the M4-2 was the fact that it has a hot shoe that I could use for this.

G

Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoetuff View Post
So my gear's just come in... Nikon SB30 and Cactus V5 triggers. I assume whether we're using camera mounted or off-camera (using the Cactus V5), we're plugging a PC sync cable into the camera back. Folks have made me a bit skittish for probably no good reason... so if this seems a stupid question... I'll admit to being stoopid.

I've read enough here to see that folks are pretty adamant that even with a TTL M camera, we pretty much want to use the PC sync cables. Have I got that right? And are there any other traps or tricks I need to know to blow out a circuit board on the M6 TTL, or otherwise screw up an M4-2? 'preciate any encouragement. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-09-2017   #11
Ronald M
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I just use my Nikon 910 in manual or auto, but not TTL.

Generally a flash bracket is used so shadow stays behind subject when using vertical format.
You will need an extended chord.

It does all kinds of tricks on the Nikon including TTL with multiple flashes.
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