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Zeiss Contax Forum for the classic Zeiss Contax I, II, III, IIa, IIIa , G series, and if you want to push it, the nice Contax point and shoots. Some spill over from the Kievs, the Soviet copy of the Contax II/III can also be expected. Plus the ONLY production camera ever made in classic Zeiss Contax Rangefinder mount WITH TTL metering ... the Voigtlander Bessa R2C.

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Old 01-23-2017   #41
Deklari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhchen View Post
And a few of my son.

IMG_0029 by Nathan Chen, on Flickr

IMG_0034 by Nathan Chen, on Flickr

regards,
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Excellent Nathan
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Old 01-27-2017   #42
Erik van Straten
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Contax I, Sonnar 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY.

Erik.

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Old 01-31-2017   #43
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Contax I, Sonnar 50mm f/1.5 black and nickel, 400-2TMY.

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Old 01-31-2017   #44
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Contax I v7, Nikkor 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY.

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Old 01-31-2017   #45
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Contax I v7, Nikkor 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY.

Erik.

Grate Erik!
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Old 01-31-2017   #46
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Contax I, Zeiss Sonnar f2, Ilford Delta 100, R09

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Old 01-31-2017   #47
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Always amazed at the sharpness you squeeze out of your negatives/process, Erik.
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Old 01-31-2017   #48
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Thank you, Deklari and Rick.

Deklari, great shot. Where is it? Bratislava?

Erik.
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Old 02-01-2017   #49
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Thank you, Deklari and Rick.

Deklari, great shot. Where is it? Bratislava?

Erik.
No ) Albany NY
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Old 02-01-2017   #50
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Contax I, Zeiss Sonnar f2, Ilford Delta 100, R09
I wouldn't develop T-grain films in Rodinal or one of its numerous clones, doing this you just spoil what the (expensive) Delta 100 can provide.
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Old 02-01-2017   #51
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I wouldn't develop T-grain films in Rodinal or one of its numerous clones, doing this you just spoil what the (expensive) Delta 100 can provide.
I usually didn't. But you remember my Contax die. I have try to make it work, but kill 50% of this film. After you advice to unloaded the camera, I have found what only few shuts left. I just develop rest of the film in R09 with my x-ray films.
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Old 02-01-2017   #52
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I wouldn't develop T-grain films in Rodinal or one of its numerous clones, doing this you just spoil what the (expensive) Delta 100 can provide.
Actually for Delta and Tmax I have use only D76 so far. Do you have a better suggestion?
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Old 02-01-2017   #53
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I use Adonal very much to my satisfaction for fine grain films, incudinf good results with Acros 100 and Tmax 100. Very convenient to mix 50:1 liquid concentrate.
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Old 02-01-2017   #54
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All great photos.
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Old 02-01-2017   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deklari View Post
Actually for Delta and Tmax I have use only D76 so far. Do you have a better suggestion?
D76 at 1+1 works fine with those films although the shadows will be just a bit more blocked than with the dedicated developers Ilford and Kodak make for their T-grain films. Personally I'm still with D76 1+1 for pretty everything and I'm never disappointed. Also, D76 (or its Ilford ID-11 sibling, the same stuff) is very convenient to stock at home (powder pouches).

You can also pull the films a little bit (expose respectively to 80 instead of 100 and to 320 instead of 400) and develop in Perceptol 1+1 : great results too.

Using Rodinal with fast films or T-grain ones is counter-productive in that the results may please you, OK, but then you are buying expensive modern films and developing them in something having more adverse effects than something really matching the films specs.

Rodinal was created in the XIXth century at a time when there were only very slow films with a very low acutance. Recently a trend came out tending to present Rodinal as the miracle developer capable of developing everything perfectly, as well as a product which would never die, even many decades after the bottle has been open.

Both statements are false. Rodinal will produce huge grain and huge contrast with many modern films (which is something you don't always want - not everybody is named Daido Moriyama). And it can suddenly die, leaving you with a massively underdeveloped film, or even a totally blank film.

Of course I am going to be crucified for this now...
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Old 02-01-2017   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 61 View Post

Rodinal was created in the XIXth century at a time when there were only very slow films with a very low acutance. Recently a trend came out tending to present Rodinal as the miracle developer capable of developing everything perfectly, as well as a product which would never die, even many decades after the bottle has been open.

Both statements are false. Rodinal will produce huge grain and huge contrast with many modern films (which is something you don't always want - not everybody is named Daido Moriyama). And it can suddenly die, leaving you with a massively underdeveloped film, or even a totally blank film.

Of course I am going to be crucified for this now...
D76 work for me well. Rodinal I still using for my large format photography on 8x10 x-ray film (what usually slow). I have bad experiences with R09, when I have blank film roll. After I only use d76 for my roll film.
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Old 02-03-2017   #57
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Perceptol for me.

Contax I, Nikkor 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY.

Erik.


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Old 02-10-2017   #58
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Not with a Contax I, but with a Contax I lens.

Nikon S2, Sonnar 50mm f/1.5 black and nickel uncoated, 400-2TMY.

Erik.





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Old 02-11-2017   #59
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Contax I v7, Nikkor 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY.

Erik.



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Old 02-18-2017   #60
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Contax I v7, Nikkor 35mm f/2.5, 400-2TMY.

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Old 02-18-2017   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Straten View Post
Contax I v7, Nikkor 35mm f/2.5, 400-2TMY.

Erik.

Excellent work Erik !
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Old 02-18-2017   #62
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Thank you, Deklari!

Erik.
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Old 02-19-2017   #63
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Contax I, Sonnar 50/2, T-Max 100

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Old 02-19-2017   #64
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Excellent shot, Deklari!

Erik.
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Old 02-19-2017   #65
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Excellent shot, Deklari!

Erik.
Thanks Erik, I have order Jupiter 12 (1959) from Russia, it probably come only in next month. Don't really know if year and model (silver/black) is really matter. My Jupiter-8 (1958) and Jupiter-3 (1977) give me excellent result on Leica III.
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Old 02-19-2017   #66
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Yes, those Russian lenses are excellent. I have a Jupiter 8M that is really good.

Erik.
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Old 02-24-2017   #67
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Contax I v7, Nikkor 35mm f/2.5, 400-2TMY.

Erik.





Nikkor 50mm f/2







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Old 03-02-2017   #68
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Nice shots Erik.
I still can't get such sharp and contrast image. Probably, I need to start using F higher then 2.8 :-)
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Old 03-02-2017   #69
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Nice shots Erik.
I still can't get such sharp and contrast image. Probably, I need to start using F higher then 2.8 :-)
What you need is a very clean lens with no scratches and no haze, and a good lens hood.
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Old 03-02-2017   #70
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What you need is a very clean lens with no scratches and no haze, and a good lens hood.
Sound as another 0.5K $
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Old 03-02-2017   #71
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Quote:
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Sound as another 0.5K $
A clean, scratchless Jupiter 8M will do.

Erik.
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Old 03-02-2017   #72
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A clean, scratchless Jupiter 8M will do.
Absolutely. There is a mint one on display at a shop near my office for 0.085K €, with a very nice Kiev 4 as a rear cap.

And I don't know any 50mm lenses in Contax mount costing 0.5K $, even the real McCoy Sonnars.
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Old 03-02-2017   #73
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Absolutely. There is a mint one on display at a shop near my office for 0.085K €, with a very nice Kiev 4 as a rear cap.

And I don't know any 50mm lenses in Contax mount costing 0.5K $, even the real McCoy Sonnars.
I newer spend more than 80$ .. for any my lens :-) but just try to update some for my Leica.. and look on original Leica lens price.. it is crazy...
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Old 03-03-2017   #74
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You may want to try to seriously clean your collapsible Sonnar f/2 first.

This is an easy lens to work on. Attached are sketches courtesy of Rick Oleson.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sonnar1.jpg (60.1 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg sonnar2.jpg (97.1 KB, 17 views)
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Old 03-03-2017   #75
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You may want to try to seriously clean your collapsible Sonnar f/2 first.

This is an easy lens to work on. Attached are sketches courtesy of Rick Oleson.
Thanks, good information. I plane to have a boring weekend .. but not anymore
Actually it looks no that bad, bit it may be some tiny haze inside of this lens.
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Old 03-04-2017   #76
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Thanks, good information. I plane to have a boring weekend .. but not anymore
Actually it looks no that bad, bit it may be some tiny haze inside of this lens.
When perfectly clean and with a front element without scratches, the collapsible prewar CZJ Sonnar f/2 delivers an image quality fully comparable with what you get off 50mm f/2 lenses made twenty years later by Leitz and Nikon.

Have a good cleaning !
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Old 03-04-2017   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 61 View Post
Absolutely. There is a mint one on display at a shop near my office for 0.085K €, with a very nice Kiev 4 as a rear cap.

And I don't know any 50mm lenses in Contax mount costing 0.5K $, even the real McCoy Sonnars.
There is original Voigtlander Nokton 50mm/1.5 in Contax mount. I used to own one, and foolishly have it sold. I shouldn't have done that! I don't know how much they command these days, but last I checked they were going for more than $3k.
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Old 03-04-2017   #78
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Contax I, Nikkor 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY.

Erik.













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Old 03-06-2017   #79
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When perfectly clean and with a front element without scratches, the collapsible prewar CZJ Sonnar f/2 delivers an image quality fully comparable with what you get off 50mm f/2 lenses made twenty years later by Leitz and Nikon.

Have a good cleaning !
Thanks ) it take a few hours. Looks much better now. Internal elements looks very clean. Unfortunately, front element has many small cleaning scratches on coated surface. I can't do much about. Will use as it is. Anyway, all Erik's photo is just not about a perfect lens..
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Old 03-07-2017   #80
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Thanks ) it take a few hours. Looks much better now. Internal elements looks very clean. Unfortunately, front element has many small cleaning scratches on coated surface. I can't do much about. Will use as it is. Anyway, all Erik's photo is just not about a perfect lens..
You're welcome.

If the small cleaning scratches just etched the coating (which makes by the way your lens quite rare because the collapsible Sonnars f/2 wearing the T coating were really very few) this shouldn't have very visible effects on the pictures. OTOH, if the glass itself has been etched by this unscrupulous cleaning over time, this is another story.

On mine (not coated) I use a no-name cylindrical 40.5mm screw-in lens hood which is 22mm long and accepts 43mm clip-on lens caps. Very efficient and it does not vignette the least bit even with a filter between the lens and the hood as it's the case on my collapsible Sonnar. See attached pic. With this cheap accessory the front element is quite always in the deep shadow of the hood - very good. Also the cylindrical shape of the hood makes that you don't see it at all in the camera viewfinder.

Also, the collapsible Sonnar can be fitted with a rear cap you will make yourself using a Kodak film cannister lid. You just have to remove the internal lip with a blade. Then it fits tightly and very securely.

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File Type: jpg DSC_0064.jpg (94.3 KB, 8 views)
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