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Zeiss Contax Forum for the classic Zeiss Contax I, II, III, IIa, IIIa , G series, and if you want to push it, the nice Contax point and shoots. Some spill over from the Kievs, the Soviet copy of the Contax II/III can also be expected. Plus the ONLY production camera ever made in classic Zeiss Contax Rangefinder mount WITH TTL metering ... the Voigtlander Bessa R2C.

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Old 03-07-2017   #81
Deklari
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Originally Posted by Highway 61 View Post
You're welcome.

If the small cleaning scratches just etched the coating (which makes by the way your lens quite rare because the collapsible Sonnars f/2 wearing the T coating were really very few) this shouldn't have very visible effects on the pictures. OTOH, if the glass itself has been etched by this unscrupulous cleaning over time, this is another story.

On mine (not coated) I use a no-name cylindrical 40.5mm screw-in lens hood which is 22mm long and accepts 43mm clip-on lens caps. Very efficient and it does not vignette the least bit even with a filter between the lens and the hood as it's the case on my collapsible Sonnar. See attached pic. With this cheap accessory the front element is quite always in the deep shadow of the hood - very good. Also the cylindrical shape of the hood makes that you don't see it at all in the camera viewfinder.

Also, the collapsible Sonnar can be fitted with a rear cap you will make yourself using a Kodak film cannister lid. You just have to remove the internal lip with a blade. Then it fits tightly and very securely.

This Sonnar f2 has 2 68x xxx s/n (with red "T") what probably from 1941. Look like cleaning scratches just etched the coating. I only can see them under bright light. I also check lens surface with x10 magnification. Cylindrical hood is a good idea, thanks. I only wondering how big this hood should be (with good effect without interfering the lens views)?
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Old 03-07-2017   #82
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Originally Posted by Deklari View Post
This Sonnar f2 has 2 68x xxx s/n (with red "T") what probably from 1941. Look like cleaning scratches just etched the coating. I only can see them under bright light. I also check lens surface with x10 magnification. Cylindrical hood is a good idea, thanks. I only wondering how big this hood should be (with good effect without interfering the lens views)?
Rare lens indeed ! And good news re. the scratches.

This little narrow cylindrical hood (internal diameter 43mm, total length 22mm) is IMO the longest possible so that it doesn't get into the lens field of view (it doesn't with the f/2 Sonnar but it does with the f/1.5 Sonnar - the two lenses focal points are probably at different places relatively to the outer lens barrel).

IMO again it's really more efficient than larger hoods like the original Zeiss ones or the vented hoods being copycats of the Leitz 12585. The purpose of the hood is to block oblique light rays so that the lens front element is in the hood shadow most of the time. It does not get better than this cylindrical shape for this. Basically it's harder to drop a ball in something looking like a tube than in something looking like a bowl.

I bought it on eBay for a few bucks. Chinese made probably, but very well made, one piece CNC machined, with etched light baffles inside.

Basically the same as the Heliopan hood (long model).
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Old 03-24-2017   #83
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From the latest test roll I shot over the last week.

5cm f/2.8 Tessar, Fomapan 100 (HC-110, B, 6.5m, 20C)









I still have the feeling that the medium speeds are a bit too slow and the sports speeds are a bit too fast.
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Old 03-24-2017   #84
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Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
I still have the feeling that the medium speeds are a bit too slow and the sports speeds are a bit too fast.
Very nice shots!

Does the shutter open on all the sport speeds? That is a miracle in itself.

Shutter speeds are relative. When the sport speeds are too fast, then the medium speeds are too slow.

In the cameras I have with Aki Asahi ribbon the sport speeds do not open at all.

Don't you have trouble with perforitis? That is when the perforations of the film are visible in the image. I have that trouble in two cameras.

Erik.
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Old 03-24-2017   #85
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Yes, all speeds in the Sports group work, with exception of 1/1000th as I'm not exactly sure how to set that speed. The knob sinks into position with the dot on the 1/500th line, but at 1/1000 it does not.

Actually I think someone might have messed with the alignment of the dots on the winding knob, as I can only ever line up one particular dot but never the other.
From the reading material I gathered it has two colored dots (white and red) to match with the colored dots of the speed group....is that right?


And no perforitis. The film stayed centered in the guide for the whole length. I used Kaiser reloadable cassettes. I don't seem to have this problem with any of my LTM Leicas either.

I did remove the film in a change bag, instead of rewinding it inside the camera. But some of the photos still have horizontal scratches on them. Must be something I've missed in the film chamber.
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Old 03-24-2017   #86
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I will look for some Kaiser casettes as the problem of the perforitis is related to the height of the filmcassettes.

There are two SMALL dots, red and white, on the speed setting knob. They are on the narrow black ring. The red dot is to be used for the speeds that are marked in red. To use the red speeds, you first have to set the BIG red dot (or arrow) on the broad black ring to the marking (a nickel triangle or screwhead) in the leather on the left of the knob. To use the white speeds you first have to set the BIG white dot (or arrow) to the marking in the leather. The SMALL red and white dots have to be set to the engraved speeds. The white dot to the speeds in white and the red dot to the speeds in red. In reality it is not very complicated, but to write it down ...

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Old 03-24-2017   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
with exception of 1/1000th as I'm not exactly sure how to set that speed.
There is a small lever in the knob that is connected to a small spring. When the setting rod is on the left of the lever, you have 1/500, when it is on the right, you have 1/1000. The problem is that you cannot see what you do, because the small lever is inside the knob. You have to feel it.

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Old 03-24-2017   #88
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That's how I understood it to work according to the Zeiss catalogue.

But on my camera, when I pull up the knob I can only line up the red dot of the winding knob with the lines of the visible speed group regardless of the color of the dot of the group. The other (white) dot on the winding knob can not be turned far enough, when pulled out, to point at any speeds in the visible group, except Zeit. ( but the dot doesn't line up with it correctly )
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Old 03-24-2017   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
That's how I understood it to work according to the Zeiss catalogue.

But on my camera, when I pull up the knob I can only line up the red dot of the winding knob with the lines of the visible speed group regardless of the color of the dot of the group. The other (white) dot on the winding knob can not be turned far enough, when pulled out, to point at any speeds in the visible group, except Zeit. ( but the dot doesn't line up with it correctly )
This sounds as if the winding knob is not correctly connected with the inside mechanism. This is extremely complicated and there are no precise instructions how to get it right, as far as I know.

If the camera works satisfactory now, I would leave it as it is.

The pictures are very good.

Erik.
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Old 03-24-2017   #90
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If it was a simple matter of adjusting the alignment of the dots I might take a stab at it some day. Maybe after studying Dralowid's and Deklari's photo's and sketches a bit more.


But for now it seems to work well enough.
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Old 03-25-2017   #91
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Of course, after looking at Deklari's sketches I took the shutter button apart yesterday evening to see if it was turned out of position....I guess it was turned and set 90 degrees counter-clockwise. The 'white' dot was filled in with black on purpose and only the red dot on the dial is used.

Of course putting it back together didn't go well with my "Homer Simpson" method of mechanics. Took me to 2:30am to get it working again heh!
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Old 03-25-2017   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
Of course, after looking at Deklari's sketches I took the shutter button apart yesterday evening to see if it was turned out of position....I guess it was turned and set 90 degrees counter-clockwise. The 'white' dot was filled in with black on purpose and only the red dot on the dial is used.

Of course putting it back together didn't go well with my "Homer Simpson" method of mechanics. Took me to 2:30am to get it working again heh!
When you take out the big screw in the center you have to watch out for the small spring of the 1/500 - 1/1000 lever. It jumps away easily. I am still looking for mine.

You can put the knob back together in four positions, but it is totally unclear what you in fact are doing.

I had a camera that was out of synch. I had to reposition the winding knob. On that camera too only the red dot is working. It was for me impossible to get the knob into the right position, but I have at least a full range of speeds exept "B".

Is the knob on your camera now working as it should?

Erik.
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Old 03-25-2017   #93
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My spring under the 1/500-1/1000th lever was already gone anyway.
Need to figure out a replacement.

Actually, if you look at the tooth on the inside of the winding knob, you can figure out where the red/white dots will end up when the tooth falls into slots on the inner wheel.

I turned the knob 90 degrees so both setting dots can be used, but they don't actually seem to work very well on their given settings. Only using the 'white' dot lets the shutter work correctly.
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Old 03-25-2017   #94
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My problem was to find the correct position of the inner selector. When I tried to fix it in a position it moved away when I tightened the big screw.

Erik.
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Old 03-25-2017   #95
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Did some fine-tuning on it today. made a replacement spring and set the mechanism so the white arrow points at speeds in the selected group. Filled in the engravings with some 'wasco' vetkrijt...euh crayon?.


Let me get back on topic a bit



Some scratches
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Old 03-25-2017   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
Of course, after looking at Deklari's sketches I took the shutter button apart yesterday evening to see if it was turned out of position....I guess it was turned and set 90 degrees counter-clockwise. The 'white' dot was filled in with black on purpose and only the red dot on the dial is used.

Of course putting it back together didn't go well with my "Homer Simpson" method of mechanics. Took me to 2:30am to get it working again heh!
It's just sketches.. I spend days to get my camera working again. Lucky me, I don't have original knob, no idea where red dot should be. But you get it working, congratulations.
You take good pictures.
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Old 03-25-2017   #97
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The tooth on the inside of the knob is a few millimeters from the white arrow, the red dot is 90 degrees counter-clockwise of the arrow. On my camera at least.
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Old 03-26-2017   #98
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Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
The tooth on the inside of the knob is a few millimeters from the white arrow, the red dot is 90 degrees counter-clockwise of the arrow. On my camera at least.
I have try many time to guess location of the red dot, but no luck, it not working for me. The tooth inside only working if it seat into fast speed (1/1000, 500, 200, 100) for all group.
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Old 03-28-2017   #99
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Contax I, Jupiter 12, Fuji Neopan 400, D76
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Old 04-20-2017   #100
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Old 04-20-2017   #101
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Old 04-20-2017   #102
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Lovely sharpness and contrast.

Is that curtain drag at the top end or a developing problem?
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Old 04-21-2017   #103
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Lovely sharpness and contrast.

Is that curtain drag at the top end or a developing problem?
Probably developing. I still not found out yet. This particular film has that issue.
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Old 04-21-2017   #104
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Great shots, Deklari!

It seems that your second cutain hesitates just before closing. I've had the same issue. Maybe just a half turn tension helps.

It does not look like a developement issue. How can this small strip be over-developed?

Erik.
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Old 04-21-2017   #105
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Not enough developer in the tank perhaps? Though the dividing line looks too even across the frames for that. Bromide-drag from stand developing never looks that staight either.

I agree with Erik that it looks like the closing curtain is not traveling smoothly for the last couple of millimeters.
In the photo of the park you can see some camera shake in the lighter part at the top that's not visible in the rest of the photo.

I think my contax suffers from a slightly similar effect when not shooting it horizontally

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Old 04-21-2017   #106
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Not enough developer in the tank perhaps?
Then the strip would be under-developed.

Yes, Rick, I see some uneven exposure in that shot too. Just a bit more tension usually helps.

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Old 04-21-2017   #107
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Then the strip would be under-developed.

Yes, Rick, I see some uneven exposure in that shot too. Just a bit more tension usually helps.

Erik.
Thanks all. I will look into shutter curtains. I have only use 1/100 for this film and all exposures has same "line".
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Old 04-21-2017   #108
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Then the strip would be under-developed.

Yes, Rick, I see some uneven exposure in that shot too. Just a bit more tension usually helps.

Erik.
I just look back into my last few rolls of film. Actually, they all have this issue more or less.
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