snausages
Well-known
I've been misjudging the bottom of frames on my M6 lately. Cutting off feet and hands. Compositions just have a surprising amount of upward shift, no matter how much I try to compensate and allow for room within the framelines.
It's not just in close-ups. It's happening with subjects ten feet away. Isn't that far enough to mitigate parallax issues?
So what's going on here?
My questions are:
-can a RF develop a bias either in the lens mount or in the framelines?
-can two lenses of the same FOV, say two 50's, have totally different relationships to the RF framelines?
Thanks for any thoughts!
It's not just in close-ups. It's happening with subjects ten feet away. Isn't that far enough to mitigate parallax issues?
So what's going on here?
My questions are:
-can a RF develop a bias either in the lens mount or in the framelines?
-can two lenses of the same FOV, say two 50's, have totally different relationships to the RF framelines?
Thanks for any thoughts!
Check the negatives to make sure that they did not get cut off during the printing process. Sometimes I scan a negative strip to get the full image.
snausages
Well-known
Brian,
Good thought, but I'm basing this on full frame scans. Whatever's happening is happening in camera.
Good thought, but I'm basing this on full frame scans. Whatever's happening is happening in camera.
The framelines could be off. I am going to suggest that you put a negative strip at the film gate and check the Parallax lines against the actual image. I've seen adjustments for framelines on cameras before. It sounds like it could be at fault here, and might be worthwhile checking. I had this happen once on a Retina IIIS.
snausages
Well-known
Brian, do you mean place the strip of film over the gate with the back and shutter open and look at the image as projected on the film?
It's funny, I've trained myself to cut off heads in the framelines, but even that's not always enough.
Yes, you can see how I do this with my Canon 7 here:
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs/j3service.pdf
It's easier if the camera has a "T" for the shutter. "B" works best with a locking cable release.
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs/j3service.pdf
It's easier if the camera has a "T" for the shutter. "B" works best with a locking cable release.
snausages
Well-known
Okay, cool idea, thanks Brian.
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Gumby
Mentor
Do you wear glasses? I find this happens more when wearing glasses, and les when wearing contact lenses. For me this issue has been justification for going back to a more certain fraiming... using TTL cameras like SLR and view cameras.
snausages
Well-known
Bob? Bob who? You mean Brian, I think.
Good catch, and thanks for the correction - indeed, meant to be thanking Brian. (I had "Bob" on the brain because I was buying an R-D1 from him!)
Original post now edited for proper acknowledgment.
snausages
Well-known
Good thought, but...no glasses. Just misaligned framelines. Or my proclivity for screwing up.
januaryman
"Flim? You want flim?"
I've done similar, just thought it was funny.
Brian's the guy who sold me a converted Zeiss Jena 50/1.5 uncoated way-pre-war lens for my LTMs. He's a great guy to know and certainly not someone I'd want to piss off!
nome_alice
Established
your lens may have an erection