B&W film and developers.

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I have used Ilford FP4 for about thirty years now, when developing it myself in the late 90's I was put onto Perceptol as a one shot developer, I found it quite superb above anything else I had tried.
I have not done my own film processing since 1991, simply because I did not have the time. After reading some of the postings that have been made here, I am wondering if I am behind the times more than I had thought I was.
I rate 125 ASA at 100, so a small over exposure, it also means my spot meters do not need changing with my Astia and Provia use.
So simply put, I want to start doing my own stuff again. What film and chemical for Black and White would improve on my old stuff.
I know this opens up a huge box of worms but I would thank the input from those of you who have tested for grain ect.........
I have been sending my film up to Atlanta GA with no problems, they charge $8 for 120 slide film but now charge $11 for 120 B&W and since I have more time now would like to start re processing my own stuff again.
I have noticed the much thicker emulsion on my older film than the present day stuff. I have glass plates from around 1890 that look as though they were spay painted, then 120 roll film up to about 1960 that has a good thick layer on it but from then on, all goes into economy mode by the makers.
Thank you in advance of your input.
 
FP4 in Perceptol is about ISO 80, or 100 at the outside. Improvements? Well, try Delta 100. If you like it, it's better (sharper, finer grained).

Cheers,

R.
 
Perceptol does make for some film speed loss, and development times can be long at one part developer to two parts water, but the image quality is superb—sharp with excellent tonality.
 
Two modern developers you might like to try are Kodak Xtol and Tetenal Ultrafin Plus which are both fine grain developers. i.e. finer than ID11 or D76 but neither I think as fine grained as Perceptol. Both of them developed for the t-grain films such as TMax and Delta.
Regarding Delta 100, if deved in Perceptol there isn't any grain you will see unless you make very big prints. Infact for 8x10 prints I don't like the combination because its too smooth. It comes down to personal taste really.
Xtol is powder developer(At least I haven't seen liquid version) and Tetenal Ultrafin Plus is a liquid syrup from which you mix working solution direct.

The modern t-grain films need a development boost in the shadows which the modern developers are designed to do. If you use perceptol with them you may find you lose more speed than you would with the non t-grain films if you want to retain good shadow separation.
Tetenal ultrafin Plus gives a very straight curve as does Ilford DDX but DDX is grainier and gives more speed than box speed. 1/3rd to 2/3rd above box speed.

Given the natural very very fine grain of Delta and TMax films you are safe to use the modern devs without fear of any excessive grain.
 
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I usually use Rodinal (although Pan-F+ is my slow film of choice), but I've used Ilford's DD-X as a developer and it's terrific for both regular and push processing.

No speed loss, excellent shadow detail (I too usually rate my film slightly lower than box speed) and a very good all-round developer. I'd recommend it if you are looking to experiment outside Perceptol.
 
pismo923 said:
probably the wrong place to ask but what does this mean exactly "more speed" when developing in DDX e.g. Delta 400 shot at 400?
Click to expand...

ISO speeds depend on a fixed minimum density (0.10 above fb+f) at a fixed contrast (gamma about 0.62). At that fixed contrast, the speed point (the one at which you get the fixed minimum density) may be higher (speed increasing developers, with bigger grain) or lower (fine grain developers, lower speed).

You can expose the film at any EI (exposure index) you like, and develop it to any contrast you like. But there will only be one speed/contrast combination that corresponds to the ISO speed for a given developer.

In other words, if you rate Delta 400 at 400, and develop in DD-X, you have a choice of overexposing slightly (because the film will be faster at ISO contrast) or underdeveloping somewhat, thereby reducing contrast.

Cheers,

R.
 
pismo923 said:
probably the wrong place to ask but what does this mean exactly "more speed" when developing in DDX e.g. Delta 400 shot at 400?
Click to expand...

The box ISO speed is arrived at by the manufacturers usig their standard developer. In the case of Ilford that developer is ID11. Other developers will produce different ISO speeds if they were used to determine box speed.
DDX generates a moderate speed increase compared to ID11 (or D76 which is very similar to ID11). Perceptol would produce a slower ISO box speed compared to ID11 or D76 which is why you will nearly always see people telling you that Perceptol loses you speed. i.e. Shoot at roughly half box speed when using Perceptol. Whereas as with DDX you can get away with shooting at 1/3 to 2/3 more than box speed without the shadows blocking up. But compared to ID11 or D76, DDX is a bit grainier whereas Perceptol is very fined grained.
So its horses for courses, meaning it depends what you want to achieve. Maximum speed, fine grain or average grain or bigger grain. You get to chose.
 
Thanks to both of you for clarifying this for me. This site continues to be a great resource for someone like me who is just starting to develop b/w. Sorry to somewhat highjack your thread jmpgino.
 
No PISMO not a problem, we are both learning here. In fact when I started using Perceptol back in the 80's I do not remember seeing the ASA any lower than 100 ASA, I am now wondering if I should go down to 80 ASA and try that speed, trouble is combine that with a filter and we are getting very slow.
My old man always used 25 ASA Kodak slide film and back in England the sun does not break out all the time, this caused me light problems so I went up to their 64 ASA, at least the sun does shine over here.
I am leaving a week from today for a trip over to Seattle then over to Canada for time in Vancouver and then Whistler. The weather looks grim as does the amount of sunlight.
My folder has been away being recovered for three weeks now, two weeks ago he said it would be back in a short time, I have emailed, phoned and am getting no answer. I wanted to take the camera with me for BW, that idea looks grim now. The camera was shipped in the first week of January for a service on the shutter, got it back last month, ran a quick film in it, took the old covering off myself and shipped it off for a new skin withing three days and it still has not arrived back here yet. So I am not pleased, I had hoped to replace a Hasselblad with the Ikonta on the trip, now it looks like I am going away with two Hasselblads and a whole load of heavy glass instead.
Thank you all for passing on your much needed info on the topic.
Cheers.
 
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