Polaroid Thread

HLing said:
Sorry about that.
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Don't be. Heck, I don't even shoot much 3000b. I just get irritated every time film choices get pared back again. For the most part I've been shooting my remaining collection of 664 which I bought from Impossible a while back. I love the way it looks so I'm trying to make it last.

664007 by daviz121, on Flickr

664004 by daviz121, on Flickr

664003 by daviz121, on Flickr

664001 by daviz121, on Flickr
Shot on my 420 Land Camera. The prints look SOOO much better than my scanning can bring across.
 
Very good thread this. Maybe the fact that each frame burns a $1 hole in you pocket makes you think twice before pushing the button helps. Rather like the MF and LF syndrome Roger talks about (the more expensive the frame, the more inclined your are to make it a keeper)

Really like the look of that 664 film, if the scans are anyway near the prints in tonality, it certainly is much less contrasty than FP3000B.

This is FP100C however, Land Camera 250

Field of blue (colour) by Eirik0304, on Flickr
 
Ezzie said:
Very good thread this. Maybe the fact that each frame burns a $1 hole in you pocket makes you think twice before pushing the button helps. Rather like the MF and LF syndrome Roger talks about (the more expensive the frame, the more inclined your are to make it a keeper)

Really like the look of that 664 film, if the scans are anyway near the prints in tonality, it certainly is much less contrasty than FP3000B.

This is FP100C however, Land Camera 250

Field of blue (colour) by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Love the blue! I've been toying around with the idea of picking up a 250. Metal build and a glass lens are very tempting...
I just got my prints out and they look less contrasty and darker than my scans, with more highlight detail and better tonality. I should really re-scan them. If you can find some 664 you should definitely try it.
On the subject of fp-100c, I'm finding that mine get what looks like pitting on the surface after they dry. Do you have this problem?
 
Thanks.

Pitting of the surface? Yes, that does happen. I´ve seen it on Fp100C and 3000B. Especially if I wait too long before separating film and negative, or if it is warm (or very cold). I also try to keep the print out of bright sunlight until it is dry.

The 250? It seemed to me like the best mix of features of all the 100 Pack film cameras. Metal bodied, glass lens, Zeiss finder, no development timer. I love mine, its great fun.
 
I liked the Auto 100 for slowing me down to focus in one window and compose in another, but it's nice to have the Auto 250 where it's all in one.

Pardon the scanning.

Tomb%2520Rain%2520level.jpg



WHarlemPier%2520fog%2520leveled.jpg



Tomb%2520water%2520light%25201%2520level.jpg



Harlem%2520Blue%2520level.jpg
 
To be quite honest, why should Polaroids be be classified alongside Dianas, Holgas and other toy cameras?

The 100 series auto Pack film cameras are rangefinders as good as any, yes some may have plastic lenses, none the less a rangefinder.
The SX-70's are SLR's, at least the first versions
Pathfinders, if still in use (and modified) are also rangefinders

Should we open a Polaroid 100 Pack film in the other rangefinder section? Give them their due credit? The SX-70 SLR's under the SLR section?
 
dallard said:
I noticed while looking over my old prints that the fuji stuff curls a lot while the polaroid stays flat.
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Really? None of my fuji prints have any curl to them. What conditions are yours being stored in?

Also, looking through this thread is making me feel the need to devote more time to my pack cameras.
 
pdexposures said:
Really? None of my fuji prints have any curl to them. What conditions are yours being stored in?

Also, looking through this thread is making me feel the need to devote more time to my pack cameras.
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I keep them in their boxes laying flat on my desk. It's not humid where I live at all. I've got 100b, 3000b, and 100c and they're all curly but the black and whites are the worst. But the Polaroid 664, Chocolate, and Sepia films are all perfectly flat. It's not a big deal, just makes scanning a pain.
This thread has made me look over all my prints and I second your sentiment about shooting more pack film.
 
pack film pack

pack film pack

Interesting. My FP100c and FP3000B don't curl much, except right when I peel them apart. They dry pretty flat.

"Chocolate film"? sounds delicious. Do you have samples, Dallard?

I agree about pack film: let's make a pack film Pack!

dallard said:
I keep them in their boxes laying flat on my desk. It's not humid where I live at all. I've got 100b, 3000b, and 100c and they're all curly but the black and whites are the worst. But the Polaroid 664, Chocolate, and Sepia films are all perfectly flat. It's not a big deal, just makes scanning a pain.
This thread has made me look over all my prints and I second your sentiment about shooting more pack film.
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A well know issue with 100 Series Land Camera (of which the 360 is one). The camera was made for Polaroid's own pack films. These came in metal cases, not plastic as are the Fuji films. The two pronged spring on the back pushing the pack into place puts two much pressure on the film in the Fuji pack. The pressure lets up once there are fewer film sheets left in the pack.

Remedies range from:
- Weakining the springs through pushing them back (as I do). And be careful when pulling the first tabs. Some even open up the back slightly when pulling the first tabs, I don't risk it (light may get in, obviously)
- Removing the spring, the pack sits nicely regardless of the spring missing (allegedly).
- Removing the spring AND the timer

I chose a 250 because it doesn't have a timer. You don't need one with Fuji films, they have selfexterminating developing agents.

EDIT: Liked the pictures though
 
Ezzie said:
A well know issue with 100 Series Land Camera (of which the 360 is one). The camera was made for Polaroid's own pack films. These came in metal cases, not plastic as are the Fuji films. The two pronged spring on the back pushing the pack into place puts two much pressure on the film in the Fuji pack. The pressure lets up once there are fewer film sheets left in the pack.

Remedies range from:
- Weakining the springs through pushing them back (as I do). And be careful when pulling the first tabs. Some even open up the back slightly when pulling the first tabs, I don't risk it (light may get in, obviously)
- Removing the spring, the pack sits nicely regardless of the spring missing (allegedly).
- Removing the spring AND the timer

I chose a 250 because it doesn't have a timer. You don't need one with Fuji films, they have selfexterminating developing agents.

EDIT: Liked the pictures though
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Another, more difficult option is to change the plastic back for a metal polaroid one in a changing bag. Problem is you have to do this for every fuji pack and it's a pain compared to just weakening the springs.
 
Ahh... thanks so much for the tip guys. I'll have to try those suggestions. As for the model, I didn't really choose a 360, more like the 360 chose me. I found it at the swap meet, and was able to walk away with it for $10. My kind of camera. And it looks nearly new! :)
 
eurekaiv said:
Ahh... thanks so much for the tip guys. I'll have to try those suggestions. As for the model, I didn't really choose a 360, more like the 360 chose me. I found it at the swap meet, and was able to walk away with it for $10. My kind of camera. And it looks nearly new! :)
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That's a steal! I've got to go to more swap meets.
 
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