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Old 03-25-2019   #41
Karlovak
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I reckoned it was sold and marketed as travel memoirs. I didn't see it in Viru Keskus Rahva Raamat and Kristiine Apollo photography sections - the main book stores I frequent.

If you don't mind me asking, did you get a subsidy backing? Film alone must have cost over 2,5k at the least.
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Old 03-26-2019   #42
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I reckoned it was sold and marketed as travel memoirs. I didn't see it in Viru Keskus Rahva Raamat and Kristiine Apollo photography sections - the main book stores I frequent.

If you don't mind me asking, did you get a subsidy backing? Film alone must have cost over 2,5k at the least.
Should be available in their web-shop at least. I see them in shops in Tartu Apollo and Rahva Raamat.

I don't even count a film cost despite everything is done with my own and wife's hard earnings combined and we never even planned any book or any other outlet, pretty much everything I do is just for my own fanaticism about film cameras or overland motorcycle travel to little known places with only yourself to rely on. Ironically how the book came into existence was just people who happen to follow our journey started to ask for it in overwhelming fashion when we finished the RTW leg.
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Old 03-26-2019   #43
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Lenin statue in front of the goverment building of self-declared country of Transnistria. They even have their own rubl currency and passports.











We really liked Ukraine - a view from our tent's door.










Sunrise over the Black Sea we were crossing. With a Russian navy warship shadowing us since this Ukrainian registered civilian ferry passes close to the Crimean waters.
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Old 03-26-2019   #44
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Black Sea crossing.






Nothing much to do for days other than stare at the sea...
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Old 03-26-2019   #45
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Just wanted to chime in and say thank you for sharing these photos, I am looking forward to every update and that recent sunflower shot from Ukraine is absolutely stunning.
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Old 03-26-2019   #46
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Georgia welcomed us - finally we got to enjoy those great mountain roads in the Caucasus we always dreamed about.









Valley in Georgia.
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Old 03-26-2019   #47
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Friendship monument.









The town of Signagi is nicely situated on a hilltop.
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Old 03-26-2019   #48
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Southern-Georgia









Sapara monastery from 9th century.
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Old 03-26-2019   #49
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Georgia welcomed us - finally we got to enjoy those great mountain roads in the Caucasus we always dreamed about.



Valley in Georgia.
I love these mountain panoramas.
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Old 03-27-2019   #50
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Tsminda Sameba church in Kazbegi, beautifully placed on a mountaintop, with our bikes parked below.






Georgia posesses so many beautiful peaks that sometimes are unveiled by the clouds.
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Old 03-27-2019   #51
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Climbing up on the way to Omalo, in Tusheti region.










And the view from higher up, Tushetia in it's raw beauty.
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Old 03-27-2019   #52
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Soon we are not riding but feeling like floating in the Caucasian clouds on higher altitudes.








Sky is the limit.
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Old 03-27-2019   #53
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On a rough passage trail over a mountain range inside a cloud level, let our engines cool down a bit from the hard work.









Watchtower and church, one for war, the other for peace. Georgians can be puzzling yet very emotional folk.
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Old 03-27-2019   #54
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Wow! Utterly beautiful! What a grand adventure...
Thanks for posting!
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Old 03-28-2019   #55
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Quote:
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I love these mountain panoramas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulbe View Post
Wow! Utterly beautiful! What a grand adventure...
Thanks for posting!
Paul

Cheers guys, glad you like them!
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Old 03-28-2019   #56
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Crossing the Vorotan Pass in Armenia.










South-Armenian landscape, this small country has two climate zones in it.
.
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Old 03-28-2019   #57
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The gates to Artsakh - we're entering the illegal realm according to the most of the world with our lives in danger by entering a warzone.










The landscapes turn eerie once you enter Artsakh, or a country named Nagorno-Karabakh as it's more known internationally.
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Old 03-28-2019   #58
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"We Are Our Mountains" memorial in Stepanakert, the capital of Artsakh (or Nagorno-Karabakh as known internationally). It's seen as the symbol of the republic.











Nagorno-Karabakh churches have a different design. It is claimed the native people of the Artsakh mountains live among the longest in the World
- over 100 years if the war battles with Azerbaijan doesn't take them before their time.











3 men died in this tank fighting for the freedom of Artsakh. In a short time before we were in the area the fierce fighting broke out again, 30 soldiers killed, 35 wounded.
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Old 03-29-2019   #59
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The more decorated Artsakh tanks are put on mountainsides as statues, those are the tank crews that got the most kills from the recent war.
To their bravery and credit they did beat a much stronger, better supported and a vastly bigger army, liberated their country and even created
an additional land buffer down on the plains but with heavy losses on their side as well. Almost every Artsakhi has a family member who died in the war with Azerbaijan.








Mikoyan brothers house museum in Armenia. One of the brothers was the chief designer of the famous MiG fighter airplanes, a MiG-21 on display in front of his house.
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Old 03-29-2019   #60
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A wild camp in Caucasus. Here I feel free. Nobody around for 10 kilometer radius, just an occasional brown bear eating berries.








With stunning views to the Great Caucasus unveiling from our tent.








We found a secret small chapel hidden in the mountains with a nonexistant track leading there.
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Old 03-29-2019   #61
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Armenian landscape got relatively flat in north.










But there's lots of space to set up a (windy) camp.
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Old 03-29-2019   #62
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Geghard monastery in Armenia, partly built into the mountain.








Geghard.
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Old 03-29-2019   #63
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Divine light inside. People went circles around the pillars, light the candles, say their prayers, cross themselves to seek their renewals,
I just stand still, observe the human affection in chaos and stare the systematic light above, changing the angle very slowly
but steadily as the Sun goes over the point of zenith, the epitome of my daily enlightment.








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Old 03-29-2019   #64
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Eternal light with candles lit up all the time.









The sky opening up above Lake Van, Armenia.
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Old 03-29-2019   #65
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Lake Van wasn't far off to have the Aral sea destiny in the Soviet era of irresponsible engineering. Diverted water for farming irrigation sucked many
meters of it's level down, but Armenian scientists came to their senses before the real catastrophe hit.
Now the lake is slowly recovering but you can still see the "greed scars" on Van's shores.












Lake Van on moonlight.
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Old 03-29-2019   #66
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Nearly a thousand years old church where we wild camped, off the tourist trail and off tourist map thus nobody around, just you and the wind. It was fairly hard to get here, obviously.
The door was ripped off (as you can see on the pic), but everything inside the church was untouched - golden pieces on altar etc. Unbelieavably refreshing.
I love this kind of trust based World, a very anti-capitalistic and anti-consumerist way of doing and sharing things, gives some hope to mankind.










You know when it is a moment of life's high.
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Old 03-29-2019   #67
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tsiklonaut--amazing! I love the photos--you can feel the freedom and the openness.
A question on logistics--how much extra fuel do you carry? And is it hard to find there?
Thanks!
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Old 03-29-2019   #68
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tsiklonaut--amazing! I love the photos--you can feel the freedom and the openness.
A question on logistics--how much extra fuel do you carry? And is it hard to find there?
Thanks, Paul!

We carry only what fits inside the tank. Both of our bikes have bigger modified fuel tanks. My old R1100GS takes 32 liters (vs 24L original) that gives me 600-650km range. Wife's DRZ400 takes 28 liters (vs 10L original) that gives her a stunning 800 kilometer range (for a motorcycle). So if I ran out, we can go with DRZ to fetch some fuel We never needed this though, only when doing Lake Turkana cattle track from Ethiopia to Kenya that required over 1000 km of autonomy in rough offroad conditions we carried extra canisters to cover the distance, everywhere else in the world we've managed fine.

On this route the hard-to-get fuel is in north Uzbekistan since all that area works on LPG gas (including LPG gas-powered cars). We bought the fuel from random people in the village that was usually meant as a grass-cutter fuel (only those don't work on LPG gas).

Cheers,
Margus
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Old 03-31-2019   #69
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Riding in the mountains never gets old.











Watchtowers were to warn if the neighbouring village clan was coming to attack. They moved all the village into the towers so this created a stalemate
situation most of the time.










Our home sweet home.
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Old 03-31-2019   #70
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Ancient arches and unique scripts embedded in the floor - Christianity and it's rites are among the oldest in the World here. Sanahin monastery from the 10th century.












Gergeti Trinity.
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Old 03-31-2019   #71
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Those churches are so old the small trees literally grow on their roofs and walls. Sanahin.











Our favourite "secret" little church on a mountaintop, nearing a thousand years old. Favourite because a rough track leading here.
Bikes parked under the tree in the background - this is where we slept in a complete silence, so silent you could hear your heart pumping the blood in your arteries.
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Old 03-31-2019   #72
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Armenian butchers from Gyumri. They specialize on lamb heads which is a local delicacy in Gyumri.
All Armenia makes jokes about them, but they are fabulous folk. On the market they showed their craft
and invited us for a little "lemonade" at the local unofficial market bar in a dark corner. The "lemonade"
turned out to be a super strong moonshine. Till a local university history professor showed up and stunned
us with is knowlede about Estonia. It's a small world of coincidence and with that moonshine oh boy it was a day to remember!
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Old 03-31-2019   #73
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I look at these photos and I feel I'm on the trip with you.
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Old 03-31-2019   #74
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Fantastic photographs and writing! I love it, you should make a book.


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Old 03-31-2019   #75
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I look at these photos and I feel I'm on the trip with you.
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Fantastic photographs and writing! I love it, you should make a book.

Thank you so much guys!

Not sure about a new book since the last book took us 4 years to make of hard work. It seems to me these days people want only instant satisfaction, "now or never" consumerism mentality (aka digital). Just as the art of patience the art of film or hard work speaks only to very few it looks to me.

Cheers,
Margus
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Old 03-31-2019   #76
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Port of Baku, Azerbaijan.











Waiting for our ship in Baku. Soviet Union ruined many areas with oil spills from dirty careless pumping, the devastation is still seen today.
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Old 03-31-2019   #77
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Qobustan mud volcanoes.













Otherworldly landscapes in Azerbaijan.
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Old 03-31-2019   #78
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Thank you so much guys!

Not sure about a new book since the last book took us 4 years to make of hard work. It seems to me these days people want only instant satisfaction, "now or never" consumerism mentality (aka digital). Just as the art of patience the art of film or hard work speaks only to very few it looks to me.

Cheers,
Margus

Yes, books are out of fashion, but they have a longer life than anything else.


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Old 04-01-2019   #79
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books are out of fashion, but they have a longer life than anything else.
So true! Makes me think in fact...

Best,
Margus
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Old 04-01-2019   #80
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If crossing the Black sea was rather a masculine experience then the coming Caspian sea was a different story...
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