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SLRs - the unRF For those of you who must talk about SLRs, if only to confirm they are not RF.

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Old 02-09-2019   #681
CMur12
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I got my 85mm 1.7 MD new, in 1983, so I have the dedicated hood that came with it. I had wanted an 85 for awhile and it has been my favorite lens the whole time I've had it. I think it was discontinued soon after that, replaced by the much more compact 85mm 2.0.

Though it doesn't carry the designation in the name, it is a PF lens (5 groups/6 elements), probably the same as previous versions.

- Murray
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Old 02-10-2019   #682
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Minolta XK #8 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Minolta XK, 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor, Eastman XX Movie Film, Microdol-X
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Old 02-11-2019   #683
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Zaragoza, Spain
SRT201 50 f2
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Old 02-11-2019   #684
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRE-CUT-LIG...53.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRE-CUT-LIG...tIK:rk:20:pf:0

I'm inquiring with these folks (I buy their sheets of foam) to get longer lengths, or a kit, for my 250 exposure Minolta SR-M. See they already sell kits for the Nikon and Canon 250 backs. This particular back was bought by me new in the box, never used. Quite a find! Now to get it CLA'ed...........
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Old 02-11-2019   #685
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Light Foam Kit Nikon 250 by Nokton48, on Flickr


Ok they don't have longer pieces of foam, but this is how they refoamed a Nikon 250 Exposure Back. My Minolta SR-M unit would be about the same procedure. I already have their foam, it comes in three different thicknesses. Great stuff BTW and only $6.50 for a large sheet. So I will re-do my SR-M back in this same way. I cut it on my Roto Trimmer which does a very precise job. You can also cut it with a ruler and a razor blade, but the roto trimmer is easier to do.
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Old 02-12-2019   #686
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001 by Nokton48, on Flickr

My collection of Minolta XK Focusing Screens.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post
Great looking set up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMur12 View Post
Beautiful kit, Will! I would love to have a black-body SR-T, and that one appears to be in incredibly like-new condition. My favorite lens is the 85mm 1.7, which looks like it must share a casing with the 58mm 1.2.

Regarding the location of Tall's Camera in Seattle (from your previous post), I don't remember the address. It was in downtown Seattle. I made my order by phone and the camera was mailed to me.


- Murray

Thanks guys! The old 85/1.7 and 58/1.2 definitely look like siblings. I would love to try the 85 someday.

Cool story about your order from Tall's, Murray.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #688
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Johnny Depp will be portraying W. Eugene Smith in the upcoming film "Minamata". I finally found a good copy years ago and have recently reread this masterpiece of photojournalism.

Corporate Goons smashed all of Smith's cameras, then picked him up and threw him headlong against a concrete wall. The Chairman of Minolta presented Smith with a complete set of SRTs and lenses, in regards to this incident, so he could continue his work.

Looking forward to seeing this film. And Good on Minolta!

See the article here:
https://kosmofoto.com/2019/02/johnny...C3l3L1m1D0XTNc

Johnny is packin' a black SRT-101

Thanks for the link! I'm really looking forward to this movie. I was recently living in south Kyushu, and came to know a little more about the Minamata area and the plight of the survivors still living with the disease.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #689
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SRT 101 MC 50/1.4



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Old 1 Week Ago   #690
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I cut it on my Roto Trimmer which does a very precise job.

Can someone please tell me more about this Roto Trimmer?
I googled it, but all I found was links to fingernail trimmers.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #691
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https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...al_Rotary.html

I have this one in my darkroom.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #692
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Thanks for the link.
I was searching for Roto Trimmer, but it's Rotatrim.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #693
Sarcophilus Harrisii
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A couple of performing artists I've photographed with various SRT101s over the last few months.

SRT101; 58mm MC Rokkor f/1.4; HP5 Plus @ EI 3200.



SRT-101; 135mm MC Rokkor f/2.8; Kodak Tri-X @ EI 3200.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #694
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Minolta SRT Butter Hand Grip 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Minolta SRT Butter Hand Grip 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr


I just bought one of these on the internet. A NEW handgrip custom made for Minolta SRTs. Imagine That! I like it so far.
$21 plus $4 shipping, 3D printed.

https://www.cameradactyl.com/buttergrip/minoltasrt

WOW! He even has these in glow in the dark, and color changing!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarcophilus Harrisii View Post
A couple of performing artists I've photographed with various SRT101s over the last few months.

SRT101; 58mm MC Rokkor f/1.4; HP5 Plus @ EI 3200.



SRT-101; 135mm MC Rokkor f/2.8; Kodak Tri-X @ EI 3200.

Excellent SRT photos Brett!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarcophilus Harrisii View Post
A couple of performing artists I've photographed with various SRT101s over the last few months.

SRT101; 58mm MC Rokkor f/1.4; HP5 Plus @ EI 3200.



SRT-101; 135mm MC Rokkor f/2.8; Kodak Tri-X @ EI 3200.
Wow these are excellent. How did you meter? Average reading or spot for the highlights? I always wonder with subjects like this and people say "at ISO 4762", that could mean a lot of different things depending on how it was metered.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #697
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Originally Posted by Nokton48 View Post
Excellent SRT photos Brett!
Thank you, you're very kind.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #698
Sarcophilus Harrisii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retinax View Post
Wow these are excellent. How did you meter? Average reading or spot for the highlights? I always wonder with subjects like this and people say "at ISO 4762", that could mean a lot of different things depending on how it was metered.
Thanks so much, really appreciated. And I agree with you that without some sort of context of how an exposure index was determined, a bare number is not very instructive.

In the case of the top image (Dave Faulkner, lead singer/guitarist of one of my favourite Australian bands, the Hoodoo Gurus) I had a spot meter with me and would have taken a shadow reading.

With the other image (Grammy-nominated New York singer-songwriter Suzanne Vega) I was travelling light and did not have a spot meter. I would have used the SRTs built in meter to take a light reading as best I could. I was using a 58mm Rokkor for that event, but fitting the 135mm MC Rokkor to the 101 narrows angle of view enabling me to be more selective about where I took a reading from, than with the faster, but wider, 58mm. Alternatively I have metered using 35mm Canon EOS with the "partial" metering option and a short tele zoom. I'll elaborate a little more later in my morning, but, thanks again.

Some more detail:
I normally meter with a Minolta incident light meter for general photography, but since it is not usually possible to get onto a stage and take a reading near the subject, incident readings won't usually be an option! Hence some sort of reflective metering method is needed. A spot meter can make life a bit easier, but as mentioned above a TTL camera fitted with a longer focal length will also help you to be more specific than with a normal lens.

I tend to not worry too much about highlights for this sort of imaging, because achieving a little detail in the shadows is always the bigger challenge. Not that I have unrealistic expectations about those, shooting film. If you happen to be using relatively modern equipment (even my mid-80s Canon I mentioned has a meter reasonably sensitive to low light) you could take a reading from the shadows, and key exposure to that as usual.

The SRTs are brilliant cameras today, I think, let alone when released in circa 1966, and their metering system was quite sophisticated for its day. But using CdS cells they read nowhere near the very low light values newer silicon cell types can. From experience it's all very well pointing one at your shadows, but if the stage is not brightly lit (as was the case on Suzanne's stage), the needle is likely to be on or near the stop—just not enough light, to wake it up! What to do?

From previous experience I've learned you first need to get a reliable reading from something, preferably a mid-tone (or something close to it). If you can get a reading that is accurate with your camera, at least you can then interpret it. From memory I used the 135mm lens to get a reading off the body of Suzanne's guitar, being light toned and shiny enough to actually bounce enough light for the 101 to pick it up. I then would have opened up at least two stops from that (three, if possible, it is a gloss surface, after all, and unusually reflective).

Having established how much (or how little) light I have to work with, obviously, Tri-X being used for the latter photo, its box speed of ISO 400 isn't going to cut it in such low light. Wanting to be able to maintain a shutter speed of 1/125 if possible, or 1/60 at worst, I set an Exposure Index for the film which enables me to run those shutter speeds, ideally with a one stop buffer if possible (which often won't be). In that case EI 3200 was the number which made 1/125 feasible. Obviously a 50mm or 58mm f/1.4 makes this easier to manage, than with the f/2.8 135mm I actually used for that shot, and the image was probably taken at 1/60 for that reason, carefully timed to when Suz was reasonably motionless for a second.

Getting the top image of Dave Faulkner was overall much easier, simply because the stage was lit more brightly and the lighting was dynamic. I took advantage of this by waiting for the moment when the lights were at their brightest and Dave wasn't moving too quickly and had an interesting pose.

The HP5 Plus used for the top image was also rated at EI 3200 and I processed it in HC-110 Dilution B for 22 minutes at 20C/68F. The Tri-X I developed in Ilford ID-11 diluted 1 + 1 for 16 minutes at 20C/68F.
Cheers
Brett

Last edited by Sarcophilus Harrisii : 6 Days Ago at 20:34. Reason: Additional details.
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