Old 08-10-2019   #521
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Contax TVS III, Fuji C200, Z7 scan, negativelabpro.com
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Hello everyone, these links are great. I thank you personally for those. However I have a question to ask you in private message if it is possible. Thank you for your return, Regards,
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Old 08-12-2019   #522
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Fuji 200 film from 2010, Camera-scan, conversion in NLP. This is the fabulous Happō-en garden in Tokyo.

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Old 08-12-2019   #523
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One more, one of the train stations in Tokyo, Fuji 200, conversion in Negative Lab Pro, a real game-changer.

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Old 08-14-2019   #524
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I gotta thank you guys. I almost bought a new scanner until I read this thread. Instead I'm now using an old Nikon D800, a new 60mm Micro-Nikkor and the Nikon ES-2 adapter and getting outstanding results copying 40-45 year old B&W negatives of old friends, former lovers and family I had not seen in years. I would post something but it's too damn difficult for me to post photos on this forum (I've done it...ain't worth the effort to me). If the forum ever gets to a stage where a simple resize, drag and drop is used for posting, I'll jump in.

I'm gonna try copying some of my slides when I finish with the B&Ws. Right now, I gotta return the lens because it's defective and fails to focus intermittently.
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Old 08-19-2019   #525
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Forgive me if this has already been asked/ discussed. I'm looking for a solution to large format (4x5) negative digitization. Has anyone tried this? Do you need a macro lens that is lower mag? 1:10 maybe?
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Old 08-19-2019   #526
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Forgive me if this has already been asked/ discussed. I'm looking for a solution to large format (4x5) negative digitization. Has anyone tried this? Do you need a macro lens that is lower mag? 1:10 maybe?
You need distance between lens and film.

Or else, to stitch
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Old 08-20-2019   #527
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You need distance between lens and film.

Or else, to stitch
Exactly what he said.
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Old 08-20-2019   #528
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Hasselblad H1, Fuji Velvia, Z7 scan (the picture hanging on the wall not the overall scene!)
24x36 printed on aluminum, waiting for client. Just had to see how it looked out of the crate!

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Old 08-22-2019   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajtruhan View Post
Forgive me if this has already been asked/ discussed. I'm looking for a solution to large format (4x5) negative digitization. Has anyone tried this? Do you need a macro lens that is lower mag? 1:10 maybe?
Most macro lenses will deliver excellent performance in one-shot of 4x5.

I'm getting nice prints at 20x30 with a 24MPx body from good 35mm negatives and chromes.
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Old 08-22-2019   #530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
Most macro lenses will deliver excellent performance in one-shot of 4x5.

I'm getting nice prints at 20x30 with a 24MPx body from good 35mm negatives and chromes.
My KM5400-1 works fine. Software was fine, but no longer works with OS X. Silverfast is very expensive.
Vue Scan I do not like. original software was way better than either.

Opted for a Nikon ES 2 filmholder for DSLR "scanning". This is designed for 60 Micro. I used that lens and D800E. It performs as well as any scanner we can afford.
I would guess a quality copy stand, same camera, and enlarger negative carrier would work as well. I am too old to be making stuff I can buy for $150.
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Old 08-22-2019   #531
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Opted for a Nikon ES 2 filmholder for DSLR "scanning". This is designed for 60 Micro. I used that lens and D800E. It performs as well as any scanner we can afford.
I would guess a quality copy stand, same camera, and enlarger negative carrier would work as well. I am too old to be making stuff I can buy for $150.

Yep with the ES2:



And on a copy stand for 120 film:

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Old 08-23-2019   #532
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Rolleiflex 2.8E, Kodak Portra NC160, Nikon Z7 scan

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Old 11-02-2019   #533
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Now, for something different... How good is the image from camera-scan of 35mm? Which is better, assuming good lenses, APS or FF? Or does it make a difference?

Here's a quick/dirty test shot I did years ago with 50mm f/1.8 Nikon standard lens. Now, camera-scanned with 24MPx Sony and a very good macro lens, the 70mm f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART.



Here's center crop at 300% for APS and full-frame capture of same negative. Ultimate resolution of both is 6.5, multiplier is about 4, so this is 2500 LW/PH for the whole multi-step imaging process. Probably more important for image quality is clarity and contrast well below ultimate resolution. Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little. Probably hard to see difference in prints.



One more crop at 300%, a bit away from center.



My conclusion: Use good lens, FF a little better, but don't obsess if your preferred gear is APS.
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Old 11-02-2019   #534
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Interesting results Richard. I never would have thought of making a comparison as I just use the equipment I have. If I had an APS-C camera, I would use that. I do have an M-43 camera, but no macro lens so I'm stuck with using my FF camera.
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Old 11-02-2019   #535
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Interesting results Richard. I never would have thought of making a comparison as I just use the equipment I have. If I had an APS-C camera, I would use that. I do have an M-43 camera, but no macro lens so I'm stuck with using my FF camera.
This is sort of the last open question in refining my camera-scan setup. I have both body-types, so had to see if it made a difference.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #536
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I don't get it. ISO250 vs ISO100. Why? Looks like Sigma Macro ART struggle on a APS-C. Have a pics for corners?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #537
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I don't get it. ISO250 vs ISO100. Why? Looks like Sigma Macro ART struggle on a APS-C. Have a pics for corners?
ISO 250? Yeah, my error. But 250 is low enough I don't believe it made any difference.

70 Sigma Macro ART "struggling" on APS? Please comment on what leads you to that.

My assessment:
- APS and FF are very close with this very good lens
- FF is just a little better on test target and test shots
- So, use either FF or APS with a very good lens
- With a lesser lens (e.g. 55 f/3.5 Micro-Nikkor), corners on FF at 1x suffer; may not show in real images, but I'll stick with APS for best results

Corners? There was no corner detail in the negative I posted. Here's a USAF test target, first center then corner. I judge these based on quality and contrast up/down "5" column, not on ultimate resolution.

Center: APS left, FF right



Corner:

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #538
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I would think that APS or micro 4/3 w/full frame lens..will get rid of the "dirty corner" realities of most lenses.
I've been happy with Focotar-2 on BEEON or Leitz Valoy for 6x9 and up..
Thing is..you can always get a better lens..
But in my old age..I ask..
Does it really matter on most stuff..
Probably not..
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #539
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70 Sigma Macro ART "struggling" on APS? Please comment on what leads you to that.
Maybe better word is "thinks to start struggling". It's a bit softer on your image. "Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little." -- your words too.

As for corner details we can use grain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
Here's a USAF test target, first center then corner.
That's great. Corners look better than center. It's a very good lens. Are both images on a same focus plane or best focus was used?

24MP is nothing for that lens. It can work on 100MP APS-C. To proove that you can use telecovertor or two. At least in the center.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #540
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Does it really matter on most stuff..
Probably not..
Somebody has to care... So we are here. Personally I use APS-C with great scanner lens. (I have a great scanner too.)
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #541
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Somebody has to care... So we are here. Personally I use APS-C with great scanner lens. (I have a great scanner too.)
We all have our ways...whatever works!
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #542
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Quote:
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Maybe better word is "thinks to start struggling". It's a bit softer on your image. "Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little." -- your words too.

As for corner details we can use grain.

That's great. Corners look better than center. It's a very good lens. Are both images on a same focus plane or best focus was used?

24MP is nothing for that lens. It can work on 100MP APS-C. To proove that you can use telecovertor or two. At least in the center.
OK, we are thinking and seeing about the same.

With my Pakon at 6MPx, no visible grain. At 24MPx with cam-scan, there's lots of visible grain, it's a good indicator of whether you are getting all the image detail that's on the film. But, now I am not sure what to do with it. Default capture sharpening is probably accentuating the grain, and it can produce strange patterns. So, still working on this, but happy when my lenses resolve it.

Yes, the corner is better than the center for the FF USAF target image. That's an anomaly, probably a very slight focus change from center shot to corner. I did my best to hold the same film plane and focus. These tests are difficult to do precisely without real lab-quality equipment.

Yes, this 70 f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART is far better than 24MPx FF (about 6 microns pixel pitch). That's evident when we see it performs well on 24MPx APS with about 4 microns pixel pitch. Could it deliver on 100MPx FF? That would be 3 micro pitch. Would love to see it.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #543
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Quote:
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Personally I use APS-C with great scanner lens. (I have a great scanner too.)
Can you mention your lens?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #544
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #545
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #546
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Can you mention your lens?
Yep. Rodenstock-Magnagon-75mm-f5.6. Some links:

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1420827

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1438451

Huss, keep them coming.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #547
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Very interesting. Your results are very consistent with what I get with best lenses on Sony 24MPx APS bodies at 1:1.5 and at 1:1. I get a little more resolution, just about proportional to the increased MPx and reduces pixel pitch. These results for 90 Sony macro, 70 f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART, 55 f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor AI, and so forth.

I believe all these lenses and your Magnagon are limited by the sensors in our tests.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #548
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #549
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It's interesting how the stop sign and DHL logo almost look brown but the HSBC red looks red. The scan looks correct overall though.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #550
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It's interesting how the stop sign and DHL logo almost look brown but the HSBC red looks red. The scan looks correct overall though.
It is. I don't see it as brown but a deep red on my calibrated monitor. The warning signs with the red surround in the sunlight are much redder, so I think the shade has something to do with it. Plus the film type (expired Fuji Pro160s from 2008).

I have other images where it turns a cardinal red into a purple. All the other colours are 'correct' so I think it is just a characteristic of this film and age of it.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #551
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #552
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #553
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #554
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #555
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I am currently struggling with scanning about 13 rolls of 35mm film. My Coolscan has been acting up, but for the most part is acceptable. I really appreciate everyone sharing their setups since I don't believe that this scanner will last more than another year or so.

I've got a shopping list ready - but I'll make sure to check in before I order since it seems that there are steady advances in the techniques (and equipment) used.
Thanks, everyone!
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #556
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #557
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My Coolscan has been acting up, but for the most part is acceptable. ...

I've got a shopping list ready - but I'll make sure to check in before I order since it seems that there are steady advances in the techniques (and equipment) used.
First, Frank Phillips can probably fix your scanner or call in Gleb Stengel for certain parts. Seller Nikon_Coolscan on eBay, or find him on FaceBook.

Camera-scan setups vary.

Horizontal: Easiest is a good bellows and film/slide copy holder. Nikon PB-4 for example. Macro lens. Flash or a good high CRI source.

Front of camera: Nikon ES-2 or similar. Looks easy; haven't tried.

Vertical: You'll want a very rigid copy stand, negative holder, diffuser, and light source. Some way to hold everything in place.

Hope this is helpful.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #558
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Also, I'm in complete agreement with Huss. Negative Lab Pro is a real game changer.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #559
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Old 1 Week Ago   #560
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So RawTherapee has added a film negative mode. From a very brief look it seems quite promising. Potentially a solution for people like me who don't have photoshop/negativelabpro?
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