Old 05-25-2015   #401
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These 3 are from an annual summer festival that happens all throughout Japan called "Awa Odori". It is held in August and I attend it ever year as there is one right by our area.

Film: Kodak TMAX100
Paper: Forte Bromofort BSP-4 5x7

Ben





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Old 05-26-2015   #402
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still learning darkroom printing

still learning darkroom printing.

currently still figuring out exposure

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Old 05-26-2015   #403
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Quote:
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still learning darkroom printing.

currently still figuring out exposure
Like earlier said - a very strong start. Like your print a lot.
What are the notes on the top right? You say base 4sec and then some split grading or the whole thing was 4sec?

What aperture and lens did you use in the enlarger?

Keep up the good work!
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Old 05-27-2015   #404
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bence8810: tks for kind words.

grade 0 was 4s + 1 1/4f and grade 5 was 4s + 2 1/4f.

the leitz v.35 requires longer exposure as a diffusion type enlarger, even at f5.6 aperture.

tks

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Old 06-10-2015   #405
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Printed this yesterday. Still experimenting. Still learning.



Working Print. “Dubai 2012″

Today I received the Vario-Contrast module for my enlarger, and I was itching to test it out This is different from a CMY color module as it only deals with B&W and has a single knob for contrast 0 to 5. This makes it easier than trying to remember Contrast 0 is 105Y and 12M and Contrast 5 is 0Y and 200M.

The picture was taken on a Leica M2 with 35f2 Summicron. And the film was Polypan F rated between 50 and 100.
I did a test strip (left) at contrast 0 with base of 8seconds in -1f, -3/4f. -1/2f … to +¼. Decided that enlarge lens was too bright even at an Lens aperture of 5.6f. Chose -1f as the time, ie. 4 seconds for grade 0.
DId the middle strip at Grade 0 of 4 seconds and did several exposures at Grade 5 from -1 to +1/4f time. Decided to use -1f time also for grade 5, ie. 4seconds.
Did a test print (right) at grade 0:4s, grade 5:4s. Image was a shade too dark.
Decided to change grade 5 to 4s -1/2f. (or 2.8seconds). Decided that this would be a good Working Print.



The other areas to start working (if I ever get around to it) would be to crop the left side of the building and perhaps dodge the man’s face for a bit more shadow details.
FIN.
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Old 06-10-2015   #406
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Nice one again! Can totally relate to the scene, lived in Dubai for 3 years between 2008 and 2011. It is in front of the JBR by the beach.

I still don't follow 100% how you describe the way you do your test but I think I got it finally just takes me time to process the information.

So far from people I worked with always spoke like:

f11 8sec @ 3C (this is just an example)
in your case it would be f5.6 4/5/6/7/8/10 sec 0C I believe. Or i might be totally wrong in which case please ignore me

Regardless the language, very nice work! Enjoy your posts, keep them coming!
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Old 06-12-2015   #407
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A picture of my niece while I was visiting my family back in Hungary this past May.

I made two prints to compare some ancient paper I got while there.

1. Forte Bromofort BSP-4
This one is holding up real nice despite the age. The paper is from the late 80's or early 90's.



2. Orwo Bromofort WN 121
This one is really yellowed and feels quite fragile to the touch when removed from the pack, sort of like a dried up leaf - It feels like if I bend it too hard it might break in half. I do like the look though so I am thinking now what to use it for, have about 50 sheets of 8x10 left......
The paper is from the late 70's

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Old 06-13-2015   #408
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This "darkroom" print was exposed in my home made 8x10 box camera using Harman DPP. An old Chevy parked along Hwy 14 in Madrid, NM.

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Madrid001a by Joe Van Cleave, on Flickr
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Old 06-22-2015   #409
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Learning to use the Ilford EM10 enlarger light meter,
i can sort of get a working but not final print in two prints.
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Old 06-24-2015   #410
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Quote:
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Stornoway Summer on Flickr
really nice print. How did you tone it? Selenium?


Quote:
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Learning to use the Ilford EM10 enlarger light meter
How do you like the Meter? I had one on loan for a period but I didn't even try it. Wish I did, maybe you can tell me how it works for you?
Is it better than doing test strips?

One thing that turned me off was the fact that I could only go 1 stop at a time with it as you trigger the meter with changing aperture. Is this correct? Again - never tried just read parts of the manual.

Thanks,
Ben
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Old 06-24-2015   #411
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Sepia tone bence8810
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Old 06-24-2015   #412
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Ben,

i am still figuring it out. i made it all the more complicated because i did two baseline numbers, one for highlight details at grade 0 (number 80 on the meter), and one for shadow details at grade 5 (number 40 on the meter).

So, for the above picture, i turned to grade 0 on the enlarger, turned to number 80 on the meter, pointed the meter to an area where it is white with some details, then turned the enlarger aperture until the light turned green, which in this case was f8. I exposed for 8seconds since this exposure time is the baseline for grade 0 (80 on the meter, 8 seconds exposure). I did the same for grade 5, and got f8 as well, i exposed with a pre-determined baseline of 8 seconds. I did only 3 prints for the above, first print was too light, open up the aperture to f5.6 for grade 0, grade 5 was the same as before. I did one more print to try burning in the navel part of the robot.

yes. i stopped using strips, not still experimenting since i have only done 3 to 4 prints with the em10. but it looks promising as i can get to a working print in 2 prints.

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Old 06-24-2015   #413
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Sepia tone bence8810
What product do you use and how do you tone it? If you can let me know - dilution - time - washing etc.
I am about to start toning so anything helps!

Thanks,
Ben
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Old 06-24-2015   #414
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Ben,

i am still figuring it out. i made it all the more complicated because i did two baseline numbers, one for highlight details at grade 0 (number 80 on the meter), and one for shadow details at grade 5 (number 40 on the meter).

So, for the above picture, i turned to grade 0 on the enlarger, turned to number 80 on the meter, pointed the meter to an area where it is white with some details, then turned the enlarger aperture until the light turned green, which in this case was f8. I exposed for 8seconds since this exposure time is the baseline for grade 0 (80 on the meter, 8 seconds exposure). I did the same for grade 5, and got f8 as well, i exposed with a pre-determined baseline of 8 seconds. I did only 3 prints for the above, first print was too light, open up the aperture to f5.6 for grade 0, grade 5 was the same as before. I did one more print to try burning in the navel part of the robot.

yes. i stopped using strips, not still experimenting since i have only done 3 to 4 prints with the em10. but it looks promising as i can get to a working print in 2 prints.

raytoei
That sounds very promising! I'll look into it, thanks for explaining!

Ben
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Old 06-24-2015   #415
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Ben, thank you for keeping this thread alive and engaging.

I've had zero time in my darkroom (but the itch is growing, just need to reach the unbearable point).
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Old 06-24-2015   #416
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yes. i stopped using strips, not still experimenting since i have only done 3 to 4 prints with the em10. but it looks promising as i can get to a working print in 2 prints.

raytoei
Ray, when I printed frequently, I can get to a good print in using as little as 2 test strips.

Your using the meter is very intriguing, keep updating us with your findings.
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Old 06-24-2015   #417
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Here's one more printed on Monday. I did this in 2 prints using the ilford em10.

raytoei
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Old 06-24-2015   #418
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Here's one more printed on Monday. I did this in 2 prints using the ilford em10. raytoei
Really nice one Ray!

Have you tried what would happen if you print the same with 16seconds at Grade 2.5? Would be interesting to see what the split grade does bs a straight out print side by side.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-24-2015   #419
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Quote:
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Ben, thank you for keeping this thread alive and engaging. I've had zero time in my darkroom (but the itch is growing, just need to reach the unbearable point).
Will, it's my pleasure. I have just started printing and its much easier to do with a good community around so keeping this alive is important!

Looking forward to your prints once you get back to the darkroom again!
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Old 06-26-2015   #420
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many issues with this print, blown highlights, alignment, dust spots etc... but overall it think it works.

I did this in one print, by using the ilford em-10 darkroom meter.

raytoei
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Old 06-26-2015   #421
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many issues with this print, blown highlights, alignment, dust spots etc... but overall it think it works.

I did this in one print, by using the ilford em-10 darkroom meter.

raytoei
All issues aside, I can't fault the subject...

Very nice work.
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Old 06-26-2015   #422
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Cheers - John
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Old 06-26-2015   #423
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Old 06-29-2015   #424
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Using Ilford em10 and Split Grade Printing.


I used the Ilford em10 light meter, with previous baseline settings (Grade 0: 80 index, Grade 5: 40 index, both exposure for 8seconds).

Turning off the safelight which would interfere with the light meter, I dialed 80 into the em10 and turned on the enlarger with grade 0 setting. I then pointed at the image at the forehead where it were highlight details, I then turned the enlarger aperture until the em10 turned green. The aperture reading was between f16 and f11, ie. 11 and half stop. So if I exposed the photo paper at f11.5 at 8 seconds, I would get the same density as the baseline grade 0 measured previously.

I did the same for grade 5, dialed in 40 onto the em10, turned on the enlarger, pointed the em10 around the hair and turned the enlarger aperture until the em10 turned from red to green, in this case, the aperture setting was 5.6f.

I then put in a photo paper, exposed at grade 0 between f11 and f16 for 8 seconds, and then exposed at grade 5 at f5.6f

I got a usable working print on my first attempt. It isn't very composed and there is more work needed, but this is a good starting point.
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Old 06-29-2015   #425
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Really realy beautiful, tones and everything

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Here's one more printed on Monday. I did this in 2 prints using the ilford em10.

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Old 06-30-2015   #426
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Hello fellow wetprinters ;-)
Dear Ray, I am also printing pictures in my micro darkroom and I am interested in this various grade printing techniques.
My enlarger has a condenser and I can only change the contrast gelatines...
I have a kaiser microcomputer with a meter accessory but I have not used it so far...
May you suggest me any resources studying in order to understand what is happening.
I really like the idea of local contrast variation on the same print...
Thank you for sharing your pictures and your findings!
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Old 06-30-2015   #427
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Here's one more printed on Monday. I did this in 2 prints using the ilford em10.

raytoei

Really nice Ray ..
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Old 06-30-2015   #428
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Michael, adresaba and Johnmcd, thanks for kind words. Still learning and having fun at the same time.

varchs, the best article i have read on split grade printing is here:

http://www.lesmcleanphotography.com/...ull&article=21

but i have read all the stuff and watched all the youtube video but nothing comes near to explaining split grade from the Lynda paid videos:

http://www.lynda.com/Photography-Bla.../372526-2.html

after watching the topic on "split filter test print" i felt confident enought to go do it.

it is not free but worth the small investment to learn it.


in my opinion, the advances in BW darkroom printing in the last few decades are:
* splilt grade print
* f-stop printing
* enlarger metering

while these topics are not required to make a good print, it is nevertheless something interesting to learn and tinker, especially now that the equipment are quite affordable.


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Old 07-01-2015   #429
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very interesting resources.
Thank you Ray!
I will work on them asap... it seems that I can do it to by changing the contrast filters.

During printing the RFF Postcards I have struggled to get an OK print...
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Old 07-01-2015   #430
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Quote:
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Michael, adresaba and Johnmcd, thanks for kind words. Still learning and having fun at the same time.

varchs, the best article i have read on split grade printing is here:

http://www.lesmcleanphotography.com/...ull&article=21

but i have read all the stuff and watched all the youtube video but nothing comes near to explaining split grade from the Lynda paid videos:

http://www.lynda.com/Photography-Bla.../372526-2.html

after watching the topic on "split filter test print" i felt confident enought to go do it.

it is not free but worth the small investment to learn it.


in my opinion, the advances in BW darkroom printing in the last few decades are:
* splilt grade print
* f-stop printing
* enlarger metering

while these topics are not required to make a good print, it is nevertheless something interesting to learn and tinker, especially now that the equipment are quite affordable.


raytoei
Thanks for this!
I read a lot on split grade printing too but haven't seen an easy explanation quite like your first link shows.
I mostly print on graded paper (unfortunately) since I have a big stock of it so I can't use split grade often but I will definitely experiment.

The F-stop printing I already knew but not consciously, I used an app on my iPhone which gave me the times below and above my "guessed" time which I should use. The app is called - not surprisingly - f-Stop. Slowly connecting the dots here...

Cheers Ray for this!
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Old 07-02-2015   #431
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Thank you Ray,
I have studied your sources and I am looking forward trying this technique during the weekend.
The Lynda videos are really worthy!!!
I will keep you posted! ;-)
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Old 07-03-2015   #432
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It's been a long time - how do I insert an image if I don't have a Flickr account Canned it a long time ago.

Thanks.

Steve.
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Old 07-03-2015   #433
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It's been a long time - how do I insert an image if I don't have a Flickr account Canned it a long time ago. Thanks. Steve.
If you want a decent size like we show above, you need your image hosted somewhere - anywhere. Dropbox, One Drive, FlickR, personal server (like me), etc. then you take the link of the image and use the forum function to plug it into your post.
If all else fails you can upload a tiny thumbnail pic by having it uploaded to the post I think but I try not to use it. Size limitation etc...
We butcher our prints enough while scanning etc, at least show it in decent size

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Old 07-05-2015   #434
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Thanks Will.
I like your print a lot, especially the sharpness and the tones. Is it 35mm or larger format?
That is a 35mm negative shot using Olympus Zuiko 85mm f2
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Old 07-12-2015   #435
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Darkroom Print #1 of 2. Early Sunday morning.
Using the Ilford Darkroom Meter, I managed to get this out in one attempt.
Grade 0 at f5.6 enlarger lens aperture at 8 Seconds. Ditto for Grade 5.

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Old 07-12-2015   #436
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Darkroom Print #2 of 2. Early Sunday morning. Habana.

Using Ilford em10 meter, it gave a reading of f5.6 for grade 0 and f4 for grade 5. First attempt, the shadow details were there but the highlight detail (on the wall was missing), 2nd attempt was better at f4 for grade 0 but this 3rd attempt is acceptable as a working print. Grade 5 remained unchanged.

Leica M6ttl with 50f2 Summicron. Kodak Trix. 2012

grade 0: f2.8 enlarger aperture, 8s
grade 5: f4 enlarger aperture, 8s
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Old 07-12-2015   #437
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Ray - nice work. I like the contrast on your shots with the models.

Here's one from me, I have been playing with Film Development as I have this stock of Forte Grade 2 paper and wanted to get contrasty images out of them.
I have been getting good results with Rodinal and based on Ned's suggestion, i now tried going with a more "violent" agitation scheme.
I developed the roll in R09 1:50 for 11 minutes at 20C and agitated 5 inversions every 30 seconds as opposed to the 3 inversions per minute which is what I was used to with Rodinal.

The end result turned out really very contrasty and I am on the verge of calling this a little overkill.

Ned if you are reading this, what do you think?

Below is a shot of my son and our Neighbour's daughter at our place over the weekend.

Film: Kodak Eastman DoubleX 5222 @400
Paper: Forte Bromofort BSP-4 Special 5x7
f16 8sec
dodging the girl's face for 3 seconds and the boys face in the shadow areas on the right hand side for 2 seconds.

Ben

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Old 07-12-2015   #438
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Cheers - John
Just curious John, have you thought about cutting the extra paper before you expose your prints and save those for test strips?

I am thinking about starting to print more 6x6 shots in the coming months and I think I am going to cut the end off and make the paper square even before I expose.

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Old 07-13-2015   #439
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Ben, very nice textures to the pix. the contrasts and grain adds to the atmosphere. very well done.
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Old 07-13-2015   #440
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Ben, very nice textures to the pix. the contrasts and grain adds to the atmosphere. very well done.
Thank you Ray. I do like the print as well but am not sure I should continue destroying my negs just so I can use my existing paper stock.

I'll check more of my negatives later side by side on a light table and try to figure out what's best to do. Rodinal with heavy agitation blows the highlights if I keep it for the same time (11min). Perhaps if I agitate heavily, I need to reduce the dev time.

Ben
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