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Old 12-18-2018   #201
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Hi Peter,
All I need is the green light in the viewer to tell me the focus is OK, or I can estimate the distance anyways. My eyesight is still excellent (somehow!) and I do not have any issues with focusing. I stopped using any flashes once I switched to RF cameras, and now I don't like using any flash anymore. I view images taken with a flash as "artificial" and not naturally lit. I prefer photos taken in open shade. I live in Florida after all. We have over 300 sunny days per year.

The 35-70/2.8 tempts me as a travel lens. Else, I favor prime lenses. Opting for a Nikon camera has opened up a world of lens options, but this is also confusing!

Raid
Hi Raid

I find that the green dot in the finder (which lights once correct focus is found) is pretty accurate in most circumstances. I find it better than an EVF in a mirrorless camera accompanied by focus peaking. Focus peaking assists in finding the approximate focus point but I find that if I then enlarge the image in the finder to check focus almost invariably it is never completely correct or exactly where I want it to be.

The green dot in Nikons seems more accurate than the above (and it should be as I understand it given it uses the same technology as the AF system which usually results in accurate focus. To use this by the way set your focus point in the camera to the central single focus point not multi focus (there is a switch to the right of the rear LCD to do this). Of course you need to set the central focus point over the main subject to get proper focus confirmation. If you also set the camera's focus method to single not continuous focus (yet another option you need to master) and you can then recompose if you need to without having to do anything additional.

But even then some people who are experienced in focusing DSLRs of the mirrored type argue that you should just use the viewfinder to focus as you might an old MF film camera. The recommended procedure is to turn the focus ring to the point where you roll past maximum sharpness as perceived by you when looking through the viewfinder. Then roll back slightly to achieve correct focus. Then glance at the green dot to confirm that you have hit correct focus according to the camera. Some say this is the fastest way to focus. The green dot is perfectly visible at the bottom of the finder so this just involves looking down slightly. BTW fortunately the D700 has a good and effective diopter correction dial located beside the viewfinder to optimize vision correction for your eyes. I should mention that of course being an optical finder you cannot enlarge the image as you can with a mirrorless camera. You can also use the rear LCD to compose and focus by selecting "Live View". You had best consult the D700 user manual to find out about Live View but I should say I do not use it much unless the camera is on a tripod as a large camera like the D700 is hard to handle when using the rear screen to focus etc. Also being a mirrored camera the mirror has to flip up out of the way and stay up to use Live View and I find this process a little clunky to use - useful only when being very slow and deliberate and using a tripod as I mentioned. The user manual is available for download in PDF form so this will help on these finer points.

As to being confusing I understand what you mean. Whenever I buy a new a different camera I get confused - there are so many features and so many new things to learn (and also often, new terminology to learn for old things plus new ways of laying out options in menus which are always different when going from one system to another). But I find that once I am out in the field and start experimenting and using the new camera I begin to learn quickly. I also find that I will often not use perhaps 50% - 60% of the features of a camera - I usually stick to a simple method of shooting for most subjects - using a single central focus point, single shot not continuous, centre weighted metering (occasionally matrix), Auto white balance (mostly works well), RAW image files for maximum ability to capture dynamic range and Aperture or sometimes Program mode to maximize my control. That's all you really need to start with at least and maybe like me will be all you find you ever need. BTW in relation to dynamic range etc. BTW I should mention that if you use program mode Nikon allows you to dynamically vary the aperture / shutter speed balance from the one selected by the camera by rolling one of the control wheels. This is very useful if you find that for example the program has chosen an aperture that is not ideal for a specific image as you have envisioned it. I like this feature as it allows the ease and speed of using Program mode combined with the control given by using Aperture mode.

I find the D700 can be shot up to 3200 without too much image noise but prefer to keep it at or below 1600 for even less noise though what little noise there is can usually be dealt with easily in Post Processing. And I should mention that I like to set the ISO to Auto - with a range between 200 ISO and 1600 ISO. This makes day to day shooting easy as the camera balances all the parameters pretty effectively. If you are always shooting in the sun you may wish to set the upper limit for ISO something lower if you choose to use Auto like I do.

I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices.
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Old 12-18-2018   #202
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Raid, I've always preferred the 180 2.8 to the 80-200......
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Old 12-18-2018   #203
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Hi Raid

I find it better than an EVF in a mirrorless camera accompanied by focus peaking. Focus peaking assists in finding the approximate focus point but I find that if I then enlarge the image in the finder to check focus almost invariably it is never completely correct or exactly where I want it to be.
If you are shooting raw crank up the sharpness on the picture mode you have selected and skip focus peaking all together. You will get a subtle moire kind of shimmering at the actual focus point that is more exact than focus peaking IME. This will depend somewhat on the manufacturer though.

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Old 12-18-2018   #204
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WOW. I need to digest all this useful information here!
Thanks to you.

Peter: Thank you very much for the detailed tips and opinions and views.
"I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices."

I will do this most likely. Wait and take my time.
I am now going again over what you have posted to help me out.
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Old 12-18-2018   #205
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Raid, I've always preferred the 180 2.8 to the 80-200......
I have seen rave reports for both lenses. The 80-200 would be more useful for travel than a fixed 180, but I can see the charm of using the 180 locally.
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Old 12-18-2018   #206
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If you are shooting raw crank up the sharpness on the picture mode you have selected and skip focus peaking all together. You will get a subtle moire kind of shimmering at the actual focus point that is more exact than focus peaking IME. This will depend somewhat on the manufacturer though.

Shawn
This is a useful tip, Shawn. Thank you.
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Old 12-18-2018   #207
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Originally Posted by raid View Post
WOW. I need to digest all this useful information here!
Thanks to you.

Peter: Thank you very much for the detailed tips and opinions and views.
"I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices."

I will do this most likely. Wait and take my time.
I am now going again over what you have posted to help me out.
Hope it helps Raid. Let me know if you need more, cheers Peter
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Old 12-19-2018   #208
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BTW I was just reminded of this site which gives a short review on a large range of Nikon glass both MF and AF. As always its the writer's opinion but I have found its not a bad guide. Raid you may like to consider what it has to say when the time does come to think about getting more Nikon glass.

http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html
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Old 12-19-2018   #209
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Reading this thread, I realized that on this forum, Nikon is the only topic besides Leica that can attract huge attentions.


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immortal D700
Old 12-24-2018   #210
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immortal D700

The D700 is a sturdy beast. Use mine since about 10 years, will have a few dents and sunburn spots above the mirror but works as on its first day.
I use only Ai / AiS lenses because I just have no AF-lenses.
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Old 12-24-2018   #211
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Reading this thread, I realized that on this forum, Nikon is the only topic besides Leica that can attract huge attentions.


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This is because Nikon is a high quality volume producer. Can't (or won't) pay Leica prices? Nikon. Nikon has produced high-quality glass for decades and because of (until recently with their "Z" mount) their comittment to backwards compatibility, very high-quality lenses can be purchased for incredible value on the used market. This is why I will always be a Nikon F-mount shooter. The most I've paid for a Nikon lens (around $350, iirc) is for their fabulous 85/1.8 G short-tele. 1/2 the F-mount glass I own (Nikkor and 3rd-party) was less than $100, a few less than $50. Three were around $30. I also recently scored an excellent 70-210 4-5.6 AF-D for $35. An excellent 50/1.4 that imo comes close to Leica in IQ can be purchased al day long for under $200. AND it autofocuses. Sorry. I've given up on manual focus. They're archaic and they DO affect IQ because it's "one less thing to worry about", focus is a photographc "chore". and in all but the crappiest of lighting is much quicker than manual lens futzing that causes you to miss shots. (That said, I do own 4 manual focus lenses.) Back to my $35 70-210 -- the build quality is superlative, the AF speed is excellent and accurate. No issues with image quality, especially for a zoom. The only reason it's $35 is because Nikon cranked out 100's of thousands of them for a decade or so. If this was a "Leica" with only 10,000 pieces produced? Same specs, same everything? Of coursre that would never happen since, as far as I know, Leica does not make zooms, doesn't do auto-focus, and is not a volume producer in the way Nikon is. (I await those pointing out "corrections" to the above statement...)

In short, because of this, lots of people own Nikon equipment. Nikon is a high quality volume producer. In addion to this, they have offerings in every focal lengh, speed, af, mf, macro, prime and zoom imaginable and scores of ultra cheap perfectly fine 3rd party options for decades. F-mount might not play nice with adapters? Who cares when there's an ocean of high-quality lenses available in native f-mount so inexpensively?

So the abundance of "Nikon talk" doesn't surprise me.
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Old 12-24-2018   #212
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Originally Posted by NickTrop View Post
This is because Nikon is a high quality volume producer. Can't (or won't) pay Leica prices? Nikon. Nikon has produced high-quality glass for decades and because of (until recently with their "Z" mount) their comittment to backwards compatibility, very high-quality lenses can be purchased for incredible value on the used market. This is why I will always be a Nikon F-mount shooter. The most I've paid for a Nikon lens (around $350, iirc) is for their fabulous 85/1.8 G short-tele. 1/2 the F-mount glass I own (Nikkor and 3rd-party) was less than $100, a few less than $50. Three were around $30. I also recently scored an excellent 70-210 4-5.6 AF-D for $35. An excellent 50/1.4 that imo comes close to Leica in IQ can be purchased al day long for under $200. AND it autofocuses. Sorry. I've given up on manual focus. They're archaic and they DO affect IQ because it's "one less thing to worry about", focus is a photographc "chore". and in all but the crappiest of lighting is much quicker than manual lens futzing that causes you to miss shots. (That said, I do own 4 manual focus lenses.) Back to my $35 70-210 -- the build quality is superlative, the AF speed is excellent and accurate. No issues with image quality, especially for a zoom. The only reason it's $35 is because Nikon cranked out 100's of thousands of them for a decade or so. If this was a "Leica" with only 10,000 pieces produced? Same specs, same everything? Of coursre that would never happen since, as far as I know, Leica does not make zooms, doesn't do auto-focus, and is not a volume producer in the way Nikon is. (I await those pointing out "corrections" to the above statement...)

In short, because of this, lots of people own Nikon equipment. Nikon is a high quality volume producer. In addion to this, they have offerings in every focal lengh, speed, af, mf, macro, prime and zoom imaginable and scores of ultra cheap perfectly fine 3rd party options for decades. F-mount might not play nice with adapters? Who cares when there's an ocean of high-quality lenses available in native f-mount so inexpensively?

So the abundance of "Nikon talk" doesn't surprise me.
I suppose one good thing about Nikon's mirrorless cameras is that if they really take off and eventually replace its F mount line there will be even more lovely old F mount lenses available more cheaply (for us folks who do still use MF though like you Nick I often revert to AF when I really need to nail shots. Though of course all of these can be adapted to Nikon Z cameras many wont bother.

BTW Nick, While speaking of adapted lenses, I recently realized that old DKL mount lenses (from the Retina Reflex line etc) are able to be adapted to Nikon F mount bodies. The Retina camera bodies and other dkl mount cameras were amongst the few with deeper register than Nikon. I bought a 135mm f4 Retina Reflex Tele Xenar lens primarily to use on mirrorless cameras but instead of mounting it directly I bought a DKL to Nikon adapter which allows it to be used on my D700 or when both are mated with a further Nikon to NEX adapter can be used on that system. Good results too - just for fun.
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Old 12-24-2018   #213
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Great camera. I owned two at one point and neither ever skipped a beat. I did weddings and it nailed focus 99% of the time in really low light. So much so, I never bothered to buy a newer model(s).

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Old 12-24-2018   #214
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When I first got mine I used it for shooting gallery openings in very low light mainly with a Zeiss 35mm prime. Very easy to manual focus and the image quality at 6400 ISO was excellent. Just a great camera for all purposes.






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Old 12-24-2018   #215
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This is because Nikon is a high quality volume producer. Can't (or won't) pay Leica prices? Nikon. Nikon has produced high-quality glass for decades and because of (until recently with their "Z" mount) their comittment to backwards compatibility, very high-quality lenses can be purchased for incredible value on the used market. This is why I will always be a Nikon F-mount shooter. The most I've paid for a Nikon lens (around $350, iirc) is for their fabulous 85/1.8 G short-tele. 1/2 the F-mount glass I own (Nikkor and 3rd-party) was less than $100, a few less than $50. Three were around $30. I also recently scored an excellent 70-210 4-5.6 AF-D for $35. An excellent 50/1.4 that imo comes close to Leica in IQ can be purchased al day long for under $200. AND it autofocuses. Sorry. I've given up on manual focus. They're archaic and they DO affect IQ because it's "one less thing to worry about", focus is a photographc "chore". and in all but the crappiest of lighting is much quicker than manual lens futzing that causes you to miss shots. (That said, I do own 4 manual focus lenses.) Back to my $35 70-210 -- the build quality is superlative, the AF speed is excellent and accurate. No issues with image quality, especially for a zoom. The only reason it's $35 is because Nikon cranked out 100's of thousands of them for a decade or so. If this was a "Leica" with only 10,000 pieces produced? Same specs, same everything? Of coursre that would never happen since, as far as I know, Leica does not make zooms, doesn't do auto-focus, and is not a volume producer in the way Nikon is. (I await those pointing out "corrections" to the above statement...)

In short, because of this, lots of people own Nikon equipment. Nikon is a high quality volume producer. In addion to this, they have offerings in every focal lengh, speed, af, mf, macro, prime and zoom imaginable and scores of ultra cheap perfectly fine 3rd party options for decades. F-mount might not play nice with adapters? Who cares when there's an ocean of high-quality lenses available in native f-mount so inexpensively?

So the abundance of "Nikon talk" doesn't surprise me.
Although their lenses are very good Nikon ergonomics are not the best out there. Itīs big, heavy, clunky and when it came to digital, it was bigger, heavier and clunkier

WE didnīt care for 4 decades and shot Nikon as our king. NOw we rediscover the joys of elegant and small . Thatīs when Leica, Olympus and Fuji grab our attention.

i dropped my pentax spotmatic in favour of a nikkormat because of nikon glass. Was it today may be i wouldnīt

I love my 105/ 2.5 and 60/2.8. Loved my FM2 and FA. Have been working w/ my D700 for many years. D200 and D100 were my main cameras once. So i have to thank Nikon for their gear.
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Old 12-27-2018   #216
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My 2.1cm/4 cannot be used with the D700.

The following accessories and non-CPU lenses CANNOT be used with D700. Doing so may damage the camera.

AF Teleconverter TC-16AS
Non-AI Lenses
Lenses that require the Focusing Unit AU-1 (400mm f/4.5, 600mm f/5.6, 800mm f/8, 1200mm f/11)
Fisheye (6mm f/5.6, 7.5mm f/5.6, 8mm f/8, OP 10mm f/5.6)
2.1cm f/4
Extension Ring K2
180 - 600mm f/8 ED
360 - 1200mm f/11 ED
200 – 600mm f/9.5
Lenses for the F3AF (AF 80mm f/2.8 AF 200mm f/3.5 ED, AF Teleconverter TC-16)
PC 28mm f/4
PC 35mm f/2.8
PC 35mm f/3.5 (old type)
Reflex 1000mm f/6.3 (old type)
Reflex 1000mm f/11
Reflex 2000mm f/11
----------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Raid,

I don't have any trouble using my 200-600/9.5 AI lens on my D700.

There's another list of incompatible Nikkors that's a bit more qualified than yours: [See "http://nikonlenschart.appspot.com/D700%20Series".]

It specifies that:
"The following accessories and non-CPU lenses can not be used. TC-16AS AF teleconverter, Non AI lenses, Lenses that require the AU-1 focusing unit (400mm f/4.5, 600mm f/5.6、800mm f/8, 1200mm f/11), Fisheye (6mm f/5.6, 7.5mm f/5.6, 8mm f/8, OP10mm f/5.6), 2.1cm f/4, K2 rings, ED180-600mm f/11 (Serial Numbers 174041 - 174180), ED 360 - 1200mm f/11 (Serial Numbers 174031 - 174127), 200 - 600mm f/9.5 (Serial Numbers 280001 - 300490), Lenses for the F3AF (AF80mm f/2.8, AF ED200mm f/3.5, TC-16S), PC28mm f/4 (Serial Numbers 180900 or earlier), PC35mm f/2.8 (Serial Numbers .851001 - 906200), PC35mm f/2.8 (old type), 1000mm f/6.3 Reflex (old type), 1000mm f/11 Reflex (serial number 142361 - 143000), 2000mm f/11 Reflex (serial number 200111 - 200310)".

Marc
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Old 12-28-2018   #217
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I received today a CF card for 64GB, and it seems to work well with the D700. The camera has been set to the basic settings, and I have an old AI'd Nikkor 50/1.4 on the camera. I am ready to go, I think. I am now recharging the battery that came with the camera. Then I will start using the D700 to take some photos with it. Wish me luck.
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Old 12-28-2018   #218
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----------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Raid,

I don't have any trouble using my 200-600/9.5 AI lens on my D700.

There's another list of incompatible Nikkors that's a bit more qualified than yours: [See "http://nikonlenschart.appspot.com/D700%20Series".]

It specifies that:
"The following accessories and non-CPU lenses can not be used. TC-16AS AF teleconverter, Non AI lenses, Lenses that require the AU-1 focusing unit (400mm f/4.5, 600mm f/5.6、800mm f/8, 1200mm f/11), Fisheye (6mm f/5.6, 7.5mm f/5.6, 8mm f/8, OP10mm f/5.6), 2.1cm f/4, K2 rings, ED180-600mm f/11 (Serial Numbers 174041 - 174180), ED 360 - 1200mm f/11 (Serial Numbers 174031 - 174127), 200 - 600mm f/9.5 (Serial Numbers 280001 - 300490), Lenses for the F3AF (AF80mm f/2.8, AF ED200mm f/3.5, TC-16S), PC28mm f/4 (Serial Numbers 180900 or earlier), PC35mm f/2.8 (Serial Numbers .851001 - 906200), PC35mm f/2.8 (old type), 1000mm f/6.3 Reflex (old type), 1000mm f/11 Reflex (serial number 142361 - 143000), 2000mm f/11 Reflex (serial number 200111 - 200310)".

Marc
Thank you for the list. Marc! I will review it for sure.
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Old 12-28-2018   #219
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Raid, Good luck on the first outing with the D700. Looking forward to your report. Have fun!!
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Old 12-28-2018   #220
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Raid have fun.

I am sure you will do well with this superb camera. It IS a classic because it just does what it does without fuss or fanfare and does it well. If you are inexperienced in DSLRs, some patience may be required in the beginning. Not that the process is all that different or difficult but as always new cameras have differences that can be frustrating.

Menus for example - though Nikon's is mostly fairly logical the D700 is essentially a pro camera and does have heaps of options to allow you to particularize the camera to your preferences and requirements. This can be confusing if you delve into these too much - I never have. BTW you can select favorite menu options and save them as a personal menu so that your most commonly used menu options can always be found quickly.

My advice on beginning to shoot using MF legacy lenses includes the following:
(1) Set the lens focal length and maximum aperture into the camera using the relevant menu option. This provides useful metadata in you images thought it is not necessary otherwise.
(2) Always shoot raw or raw and jpg (fine) to get the most out of the images you shoot. Nikon NEF files are "deep" and have much more extractable data than jpgs.
(3) When shooting in contrasty conditions I find it beneficial to set my exposure to 1/3 stop under what is recommended by the meter (with any camera) to reduce blown highlights though shooting raw/NEF will mean you can pull a lot of any blown image back
(4) Whether using MF or shooting with an AF lens I always set the camera to Aperture priority (or occasionally program mode), using centre weighted average metering and single shot. That simplifies things a whole lot by approximating film cameras which I grew up with. I will often also set the ISO to auto with a range of 200 to 1600 ISO letting the camera decide which ISO to use within this range in any shot. It is convenient and the image noise is so low anywhere in this range that it does not create those problems in the image (maybe just a touch of noise reduction is needed in post on any images shot using 1600.
(5) Use good MF technique - use the focus ring to roll slightly past the point of max focus then roll back again slightly to the max focus point and look at the green dot in the finder to confirm that the camera also thinks you have hit max focus. I find this quick and works.
(6) One useful option which you may want to use later are "shooting banks". These allow you to have several sets of customized settings for different shooting needs which you can quickly access. (e.g shooting bank (a) can be set up for every day shooting in color, shooting bank (b) can be set up for shooting in monochrome, shooting bank (c) can be set up for shooting at higher ISOs. etc

Happy hunting.
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Old 12-28-2018   #221
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I suppose one good thing about Nikon's mirrorless cameras is that if they really take off and eventually replace its F mount line there will be even more lovely old F mount lenses available more cheaply (for us folks who do still use MF though like you Nick I often revert to AF when I really need to nail shots. Though of course all of these can be adapted to Nikon Z cameras many wont bother.

BTW Nick, While speaking of adapted lenses, I recently realized that old DKL mount lenses (from the Retina Reflex line etc) are able to be adapted to Nikon F mount bodies. The Retina camera bodies and other dkl mount cameras were amongst the few with deeper register than Nikon. I bought a 135mm f4 Retina Reflex Tele Xenar lens primarily to use on mirrorless cameras but instead of mounting it directly I bought a DKL to Nikon adapter which allows it to be used on my D700 or when both are mated with a further Nikon to NEX adapter can be used on that system. Good results too - just for fun.
Sounds cool. One of the lenses that I am planning to put up for sale here on RFF (just have been too busy -- uh, okay, lazy...) is a Helios 44, 58/f2.0. This lens was known for swirly bokeh. I bought it as a fast 85mm portrait equivalent for my D5300 crop sensor.

Now. This lens is special and and a rarity. It was CLA'd and machined in Russia such that it does not need an adapter and will mount right to any Nikon f-mount camera and focus to infinity. Also has a dandilion chip.
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Old 12-28-2018   #222
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Well......we're waiting for some sample images. Its been a few hours already

My D700 is officially dead. Very dead. Shutter issue is more expensive to repair than a new body (even a potential upgrade to 600 or 610). I am quite sad about this as it was my digital Nikon that played with all my lenses in the same way as my film Nikons. Right now, using my film Nikons just doesn't appeal -- and I have so many of them.

I have the battery grip for my D700. I wonder if it will fit any other models that I would be interested in? Wonder if it fits the D600. Hmm. Same wonder with the batteries. It would be motivating if the grip and batteries could be used in another model that gave me a little more than the D700.
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Old 12-28-2018   #223
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Raid, Good luck on the first outing with the D700. Looking forward to your report. Have fun!!
Thank you Gerry. I now have in my camera bag the D700, a Nikkor 50/1.4 and a Tamron 35-80 SP with Nikon adapter. If the rain would only stop!
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Old 12-28-2018   #224
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Raid have fun.

I am sure you will do well with this superb camera. It IS a classic because it just does what it does without fuss or fanfare and does it well. If you are inexperienced in DSLRs, some patience may be required in the beginning. Not that the process is all that different or difficult but as always new cameras have differences that can be frustrating.

Menus for example - though Nikon's is mostly fairly logical the D700 is essentially a pro camera and does have heaps of options to allow you to particularize the camera to your preferences and requirements. This can be confusing if you delve into these too much - I never have. BTW you can select favorite menu options and save them as a personal menu so that your most commonly used menu options can always be found quickly.

My advice on beginning to shoot using MF legacy lenses includes the following:
(1) Set the lens focal length and maximum aperture into the camera using the relevant menu option. This provides useful metadata in you images thought it is not necessary otherwise.
(2) Always shoot raw or raw and jpg (fine) to get the most out of the images you shoot. Nikon NEF files are "deep" and have much more extractable data than jpgs.
(3) When shooting in contrasty conditions I find it beneficial to set my exposure to 1/3 stop under what is recommended by the meter (with any camera) to reduce blown highlights though shooting raw/NEF will mean you can pull a lot of any blown image back
(4) Whether using MF or shooting with an AF lens I always set the camera to Aperture priority (or occasionally program mode), using centre weighted average metering and single shot. That simplifies things a whole lot by approximating film cameras which I grew up with. I will often also set the ISO to auto with a range of 200 to 1600 ISO letting the camera decide which ISO to use within this range in any shot. It is convenient and the image noise is so low anywhere in this range that it does not create those problems in the image (maybe just a touch of noise reduction is needed in post on any images shot using 1600.
(5) Use good MF technique - use the focus ring to roll slightly past the point of max focus then roll back again slightly to the max focus point and look at the green dot in the finder to confirm that the camera also thinks you have hit max focus. I find this quick and works.
(6) One useful option which you may want to use later are "shooting banks". These allow you to have several sets of customized settings for different shooting needs which you can quickly access. (e.g shooting bank (a) can be set up for every day shooting in color, shooting bank (b) can be set up for shooting in monochrome, shooting bank (c) can be set up for shooting at higher ISOs. etc

Happy hunting.
I went through most of the menu of the D700, and I made sure that the essential settings were in place as I wanted them to be. I am too impatient to read a manual. I try things out until they work as they should.

I will add settings as you have pointed out above, but not now.
Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2018   #225
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Well......we're waiting for some sample images. Its been a few hours already

My D700 is officially dead. Very dead. Shutter issue is more expensive to repair than a new body (even a potential upgrade to 600 or 610). I am quite sad about this as it was my digital Nikon that played with all my lenses in the same way as my film Nikons. Right now, using my film Nikons just doesn't appeal -- and I have so many of them.

I have the battery grip for my D700. I wonder if it will fit any other models that I would be interested in? Wonder if it fits the D600. Hmm. Same wonder with the batteries. It would be motivating if the grip and batteries could be used in another model that gave me a little more than the D700.
Too bad that your D700 died. They can be bought cheaply, as you know.
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Old 12-30-2018   #226
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Help! How do I open NEF files? Which software do you recommend using?

is this OK: raw.pics.io ?
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Old 12-30-2018   #227
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Loads of options to open NEF files.

Lightroom handles them well. Other options would include DXO Photolab 2 (really nice software), Capture One, RawTherapee (freeware), Iridient Developer, RPP64 (donationware), Afinity Photo and many many more.


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Old 12-30-2018   #228
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Yes, I just tried LR, and it works well.
Thanks, Shawn. I will upload the 200+ images that I took this morning in 1 hour
I had to try things out with the D700. I will post a link here and some of the images, all untouched other than NEF to JPG with LR.
The most important part for me was to master the focusing. The focus "square" or the AE square (no clue yet what the camera shows me!) was off center, so the green light did not come on when I expected it to do so. Then I pushed 5-7 buttons quickly until I managed to move the "square" in the viewfinder to the center. Then the green light matched what I saw as being in focus with my eyes. Cool. It was nice to be able to shoot photo after photo quickly when tracking some birds in flight. The battery seems to be powerful to hold plenty of charge too. I now see the D700 as complementary to my M9 and M8.
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Old 12-30-2018   #229
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I think LR was tuned around Nikons. The Auto Tone function always seemed to work better on my Nikon files (D700 and Coolpix A) compared to many other digital cameras.

If you want a change of pace (and have a mac) try RPP64. It has an odd interface but their colors and film simulations are beautiful.

Latest version here.

Free software. A small donation will unlock a plugin to integrate with LR.

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Old 12-30-2018   #230
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I have a Mac at work! Thanks.
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Old 12-30-2018   #231
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Link: https://raid.smugmug.com/D700501412302018/i-C7Tz9xM

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Old 12-30-2018   #232
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Old 12-30-2018   #233
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More birds ....








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Old 12-30-2018   #234
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I also recently started using the D700 just for fun and found that all I ever want to use is the 24-120/4 and the 85/1.8D, with the zoom being on the camera most of the time - I just "set it and forget it" and enjoy the instant availability of a very useful span of focal lengths.. and the IQ on this zoom can be amazing.
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Old 12-30-2018   #235
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Raid, Great images on your first D700 flight!!
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Old 12-30-2018   #236
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I also recently started using the D700 just for fun and found that all I ever want to use is the 24-120/4 and the 85/1.8D, with the zoom being on the camera most of the time - I just "set it and forget it" and enjoy the instant availability of a very useful span of focal lengths.. and the IQ on this zoom can be amazing.
Hi Andy. I am still undecided which Nikkor AF lens to get.
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Old 12-30-2018   #237
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Raid, Great images on your first D700 flight!!
Thank you Gerry. It was foggy this morning, so I drove to the "regular" spot with birds and fishing boats.
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Old 12-30-2018   #238
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Great pictures Raid, I too got a surprise when I first used my D700, the files look
so clean and clear with great color.
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Old 12-30-2018   #239
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Thanks. I did not try to do any PP to make adjustments to any image.
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Old 12-30-2018   #240
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Lenses 35 or longer work well. Shorter ones do not work well with any sensor because the ray angle is too acute in the corners. Fuzzy corners and vignetting are the result unless you stop down to F 8. Every wide is different.

D700 and D3 are really nice cameras. I have one 700 and two D3.
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