Black paint
Old 08-04-2014   #1
John Cox
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Black paint

I'd like to do a black paint job on an M2 or more likely a Canon P. Anyone have any idea how to go about this? I've seen cameras customized and I'd like this to be a unique RF.
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Old 08-04-2014   #2
kingqueenknave
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Try Kanto:

http://www.kanto-cs.co.jp/english/aboutrepair.html
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Old 08-04-2014   #3
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are you talking about doing it yourself or just finding a qualified shop to send it to and have painted?
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Old 08-05-2014   #4
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Either, preferably someone else.
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Old 08-05-2014   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Cox View Post
Either, preferably someone else.
Fellow member nobbylon does an outstanding job on painting Leicas, he's a Briton living in the Netherlands. Can wholeheartedly recommend him, very knowledgable and a real gentleman.


EDIT: he actually has one of his repaints for sale in the Classifieds now.
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Old 08-05-2014   #6
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I just sent my Nikon F to Kanto yesterday. It's going from chrome to black. It wil take 3 months.
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Old 08-06-2014   #7
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How interesting. How much does a paint job for a leica cost?
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Old 08-06-2014   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johannielscom View Post
Fellow member nobbylon does an outstanding job on painting Leicas, he's a Briton living in the Netherlands. Can wholeheartedly recommend him, very knowledgable and a real gentleman.


EDIT: he actually has one of his repaints for sale in the Classifieds now.
I second this recommendation.
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Old 08-06-2014   #9
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Here's a link to a Kanto job. I'm not sure how much I like the intensional brassing, but the paint itself looks fantastic.

http://www.japancamerahunter.com/201...-modification/
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Old 08-10-2014   #10
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Yes but i already have the camera, it's motor drive equipped and its hard to find a mint black F with a plain prism. It does cost a lot but it will be a pretty cool camera.
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Old 08-10-2014   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johannielscom View Post
Fellow member nobbylon does an outstanding job on painting Leicas, he's a Briton living in the Netherlands. Can wholeheartedly recommend him, very knowledgable and a real gentleman.


EDIT: he actually has one of his repaints for sale in the Classifieds now.
I have one of the M2s repainted by Nobbylon. He does a nice job.
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Old 08-10-2014   #12
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I would like my R3m painted Olive. Wonder if Kanto would do it (for a reasonable price).
I was looking for a Gun painter in the US. There are a few but most use Dura-Coat which is quite flat.
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Old 08-12-2014   #13
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I emailed Kanto the other day. I'll share the reply below. Although he declined, Those looking to have a Leica done should be heartened.
Communication from the US to Japan in english was clear not a problem.
I like a company that knows it's limits too!

Quote:
Dear Andy,

Thank you very much for your inquiry.
We regret that we don't conduct service for Voigtlander Bessa cameras.
Therefore, we cannot repaint them because we cannot cover any malfunctions after repaint service.
Thank you very much for your understanding.

If you have a chance to have a whole mechanical camera such as Leica M3 or M2... repainted, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you very much.

Best regards,
Kumiko Suzuki

//////////////////////////////////////////
Kanto Camera Service Co., Ltd.
1-49 Tsutsumine, Kawasaki-ku,
Kawasaki-shi, Kanagawa,
Japan 210-0026
TEL +81-(0)44-541-8111
FAX +81-(0)44-541-8116
e-mail:[email protected]
Open : AM 10:00 ~ PM 7:00
*We are closed on Wednesdays.
//////////////////////////////////////////


----- Original Message ----- From: "andy dibeh" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: "andy dibeh" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 3:50 AM
Subject: Camera Painting


Hello

I would like to have a Voigtlander Bessa R3m painted to Olive color like the original Bessa R2 Olive.
Is this possible and how much do you think it would cost. My body is presently a silver colored model (not black).
Thank you for the reply. I am in the US and would pay via Paypal and post to you via USPSPriority.

Cheers!

Andy
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Old 08-12-2014   #14
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I can also highly recommend the M2 repainted by nobbylon that is currently in the classifieds. I bought a black paint M3 from him, which looks to have the same paint on it and it is an awesome paintjob. It is not as shiny as a Leica MP or original BP M3, but it will probably last longer as the paint seems to be tougher. I like it just as much as the original black paint.
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Old 08-12-2014   #15
Dez
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I am looking for recommendations for the toughest possible black paint which can be applied without special facilities (such as seem to be needed for the firearms paint that has become quite popular). I am looking for something that will stick to properly-prepared brass, and will provide a good finish while remaining thin enough to not fill in engravings.

Here is a job I did on a Leica IIIc using nitrocellulose paint, which is widely used for musical instruments. This paint goes on well, and has a good lustre, but dries very brittle and not particularly strong, so there is a tendency to chip.




It looks good but is fragile, so I want to strip it and try again. I don't have any specialized equipment, so I need something in a rattle can. I use a self-etching black primer which is intended for automotive use, sticks well, and is quite strong. I may try doing a camera just in this stuff, but it is a matte finish, and I am looking for the original deep glossy finish.

Cheers,
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Old 08-12-2014   #16
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I've used nitrocellulose (Lacquer) a lot on wood. It can be quite durable on properly prepared porous or semi porous material> It's not appropriate for metal surfaces that will be handled.
One should search for a two part Catalyzed material which is where the special handling comes in.
There really is little choice if you want a nice tight thin finish.
Few Catalyzed finishes require oven baking. If you search you will find some that will cure at ambient temps.
Most will be urethane paints and possibly thick than one might desire (like an automotive paint).
All catalyzed paints require a highly ventilated area for application. It's obvious to most but would be irresponsible to not mention that here.
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Old 08-12-2014   #17
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So what you are telling me here is that I may have an excuse to buy an airbrush?

How do you clean up the airbrush after using these epoxy paints? I have seen epoxy solvents, but they are horribly toxic.

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Old 08-12-2014   #18
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For clean up you use the thinner that works with the individual product. Consult with the dealer or manufacturer. Some catalyzed products have a cleaner that is not appropriate for thinning. Read the MSDS sheets before yo open the cans.
Cleaning needs to be done while the mix is still hot. As in as soon as your last application pass is layer down.
Plan on expending a tip if you are not accustomed to the process. It does not mean you will ruin one but rather... you should cut yourself some slack if you do
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Old 08-12-2014   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicolasCooper View Post
I can also highly recommend the M2 repainted by nobbylon that is currently in the classifieds. I bought a black paint M3 from him, which looks to have the same paint on it and it is an awesome paintjob. It is not as shiny as a Leica MP or original BP M3, but it will probably last longer as the paint seems to be tougher. I like it just as much as the original black paint.
Hi NicolasCooper,
Two questions:
costs
did he remove completely the chrome before painting?
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Old 08-12-2014   #20
David Hughes
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Hi,

What's " firearms paint" please?

Regards, David
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Old 08-12-2014   #21
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I've seen Dura Coat finishes on a couple guns. One was Camo and kind of thick the other was a Blue and looked quite tight and smooth. ^^
Have not seen anything else so far. Just getting started looking for camera paint.
The Bessa R3m I want done is not brass like a Leica. Easier... more difficult... I don't know yet.
They have do it yourself kits but I'll send mine to a pro. A camera is not a gun!
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Old 08-12-2014   #22
Dez
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Quote:
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Hi,

What's " firearms paint" please?

Regards, David
I forget the name of the stuff, David, but it is the line of paints that "flying pan" uses for the repaints he sells. It looks like a good quality finish, but the application process is complex; more industrial than home DIY.

Cheers,
Dez
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Old 08-12-2014   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortstop View Post
Hi NicolasCooper,
Two questions:
costs
did he remove completely the chrome before painting?
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/phot...icron-50/cat/3

yes, it was dechromed, back to brass before painting...

regarding the price, have a look at the current classified ad, I paid about the same for the M3.

Cheers
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Old 08-12-2014   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortstop View Post
Hi NicolasCooper,
Two questions:
costs
did he remove completely the chrome before painting?
Every repaint I've done has been back to brass. It's a two stage process. First remove the chrome (easy) then remove the nickel (harder).
With regard to paint, in the US I think any of the weapons paints will do the trick. In Europe it gets harder as the paint is not available or if it is I couldn't find it. I get mine from a friend in the M.O.D in the UK. It's very tough stuff but a pain to spray and depending on temperature and humidity you can get all kinds of different results.
I do them because I like a challenge and trust me, to get a decent finish is one! Most M's have nicks and dents but also unseen with a chrome finish are very shallow depressions etc. These have to be pressed out and then evened out with layers of paint. Larger nicks can be soldered and indeed the factory used to do that but it doesn't work for depressions which are very shallow. Another problem is the script and if you are not carefull it will disappear. The back door is the biggest pain because the dials have to be drilled off and then re rivetted or screwed back after painting. It takes me approx 50-60 work hours to do a Black M2. I would never claim the ones I do to be perfect but instead a good usable BP M that you don't have to be frightened to use!
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Old 08-12-2014   #25
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Here's a link to a Shintaro painted M2.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEICA-M2-Bla...item35dad2c669
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Old 08-12-2014   #26
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Does anyone have any thoughts/experience with Canon bottom-loader (II, III, IV, etc) repaints?

I'd been thinking and I have never even seen a single one, despite Leica Barnack repaints being fairly common... I was wondering if there was a) a reason for this difference, and b) any pictures of ones that had been repainted?

I just picked up a IVsb2 that I'm quite taken with, and would love to get it repainted black over brass at some point (probably after using it for a while)...
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Old 08-13-2014   #27
David Hughes
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Andy and Dez, thanks for the reply re: firearms paint. I'm sorry to say it horrifies me. Firearms are meant to be blacked, blued or browned depending on their age...

But a minor point, years ago I was told to think about the system and not the top coat when spraying things. So will something meant for a steel (I hope) firearm work on brass? It might be like painting other metals in that a special primer and so on, is needed. I've seen white metal done withoutan acid etch primer and the paint just flaked off later.

Anyway, thanks again.

Regards, David
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Old 08-13-2014   #28
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Just restored a Rolleiflex of which the paint on the sides of the frontplate was gone on several spots. Rollei sometimes used semi-matt finishes and sometimes glossy. Mine had a little semi-matt finish left on the side and was further in a bad stage. What I did was taking off the frontplate (had to be taken off anyhow because of restorations inside that had to be done first), and sanded the sides, then used 'Finess' metal paint (black satin). After drying for two days did another sanding (to get it really smooth) and did a last finish with the metal paint. I took the camera with me for two weeks on holiday and used the Rollei extensively: until now the paint held very well.

masking the frontplate:


the end result after two new layers of metal paint:


camera with me on holiday (bought some Chinese frontcaps since the camera came without any accessories and I wanted to protect the lenses when the camera was in the bag)
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Old 08-13-2014   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobbylon View Post
Every repaint I've done has been back to brass. It's a two stage process. First remove the chrome (easy) then remove the nickel (harder).
With regard to paint, in the US I think any of the weapons paints will do the trick. In Europe it gets harder as the paint is not available or if it is I couldn't find it. I get mine from a friend in the M.O.D in the UK. It's very tough stuff but a pain to spray and depending on temperature and humidity you can get all kinds of different results.
I do them because I like a challenge and trust me, to get a decent finish is one! Most M's have nicks and dents but also unseen with a chrome finish are very shallow depressions etc. These have to be pressed out and then evened out with layers of paint. Larger nicks can be soldered and indeed the factory used to do that but it doesn't work for depressions which are very shallow. Another problem is the script and if you are not carefull it will disappear. The back door is the biggest pain because the dials have to be drilled off and then re rivetted or screwed back after painting. It takes me approx 50-60 work hours to do a Black M2. I would never claim the ones I do to be perfect but instead a good usable BP M that you don't have to be frightened to use!
IMHO, John is the man to talk to whenever you want a Leica re-painted. Real good job done on my M2 (now why did I have to go and sell the thing is beyond me...) and no excessive waiting times either. Plus, he's a respected member here!
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Old 08-13-2014   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobbylon View Post
Every repaint I've done has been back to brass. It's a two stage process. First remove the chrome (easy) then remove the nickel (harder). With regard to paint, in the US I think any of the weapons paints will do the trick. In Europe it gets harder as the paint is not available or if it is I couldn't find it. I get mine from a friend in the M.O.D in the UK. It's very tough stuff but a pain to spray and depending on temperature and humidity you can get all kinds of different results. I do them because I like a challenge and trust me, to get a decent finish is one! Most M's have nicks and dents but also unseen with a chrome finish are very shallow depressions etc. These have to be pressed out and then evened out with layers of paint. Larger nicks can be soldered and indeed the factory used to do that but it doesn't work for depressions which are very shallow. Another problem is the script and if you are not carefull it will disappear. The back door is the biggest pain because the dials have to be drilled off and then re rivetted or screwed back after painting. It takes me approx 50-60 work hours to do a Black M2. I would never claim the ones I do to be perfect but instead a good usable BP M that you don't have to be frightened to use!
Thanks Nobbylon.
The BP you sell is wonderful and 950&euro; is a very good price.
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Old 08-13-2014   #31
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Thanks for all the support chaps however I must state that I don't paint other peoples cameras any more. I like my freetime and I paint the odd camera to keep me occupied if I'm bored or keep me out of the pub! It's one of my hobbies not work. I have another M2 sat here waiting for me to do but I'm in no rush and will do when I have a spare week,
regards john
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