bwcolor
Mentor
I understand that Delta 3200 provides a true speed of 800 - 1600, depending on developer. Have any of you found a magic combination that allows the Mamiya 7 to shoot in questionable light? I'm not stuck on Delta 3200, it just seems like a logical candidate for this sort of thing. I would even shoot a color film and convert when wanting B&W if that would do the job.
Can you post examples?
Can you post examples?
Bob Michaels
nobody special
Delta 3200 shot with a Mamiya 7 and 50mm lens. I metered at 3200 (wide open @ 1/30th) but added about 15% to the recommended time for HC-110 as I usually do in this situation. This 12x12" print was shown in numerous exhibits along with 29 prints shot on Neopan 400 and looked the same. This film works for me in 120 but not in 35mm. From my South Apopka series http://bobmichaels.org/SouthApopkaIntro.htm
hans voralberg
Mentor
I've never shot Delta 3200 in 120mm so cant comment on that. Color wise Provia 400X can be pushed to 1600 with good result, but expensive. Portra 800 is also very good, decent grain, not very instrusive.
Michiel Fokkema
Michiel Fokkema
I rate it at 1600 and develop in xtol 1+1 or DDX. Microphen should work too I guess.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
bwcolor
Mentor
Between DDX and Xtol.. Is DDX faster(higher rated film speed(, but better tonality with Xtol? Curious as to what differences have been noted.
JCT
Established
Michiel,
Could you share your Xtol 1:1 times at ISO1600, the Dev chart only has for 24oC.
I've been wanting to give the Delta3200 a shot...
JT
Could you share your Xtol 1:1 times at ISO1600, the Dev chart only has for 24oC.
I've been wanting to give the Delta3200 a shot...
JT
samoksner
Who stole my light?
Not sure if it's made in 120, but i've always been impressed with neopan at 1600 in xtol
Bob Michaels
nobody special
Unfortunately Neopan 1600 is not made in any size other than 35mm. It is my choice in that format though.
Turtle
Mentor
you have struck upon one of my favourite combos: Mamiya 7, D3200 at 1000-1600, Xtol 1+2. Grain is truly beautiful. very crisp, tight and makes beautiful 20x16-20x24 prints.
I do not generally push D3200 beyond true speed of about 1000, but consider 1600 my normal 'stretch' rather than a push per se as I develop the same (for about 3200 times) This is bec of the conditions I shoot under. I would go no further than Xtol 1+something for this film. Spectacular and one of my favourite film dev combos there is. Highlights under control, good speed, fine tight grain, lovely grain pattern. just beautiful.
I do not generally push D3200 beyond true speed of about 1000, but consider 1600 my normal 'stretch' rather than a push per se as I develop the same (for about 3200 times) This is bec of the conditions I shoot under. I would go no further than Xtol 1+something for this film. Spectacular and one of my favourite film dev combos there is. Highlights under control, good speed, fine tight grain, lovely grain pattern. just beautiful.
bwcolor
Mentor
I'm new to this stuff. Is 1+2 one part Xtol and two parts water?
Michiel Fokkema
Michiel Fokkema
1+1 means one part developer plus one part water. It's the same as 1:2. Don't get them confused!
1+2 is the same as 1:3
I shoot Delta 3200 at 1600. Develop in Xtol 1+1 for 15 minutes in 24 degrees Celsius.
Because you dilute it is easy to get any temperature. first measure the developer, then heat the water to a temperature to get an average of 24 degrees. Ie. the developer is 18,2 dilute with water of 29,8. That will make developer of 24 degree.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
1+2 is the same as 1:3
I shoot Delta 3200 at 1600. Develop in Xtol 1+1 for 15 minutes in 24 degrees Celsius.
Because you dilute it is easy to get any temperature. first measure the developer, then heat the water to a temperature to get an average of 24 degrees. Ie. the developer is 18,2 dilute with water of 29,8. That will make developer of 24 degree.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
Turtle
Mentor
Yup. I use this because it means I can develop 5 rolls of 35mm in a 1500ml tank and still stick to the minimum 100ml per roll. Its the most economic and easy way to use Xtol IMO. Acutance is a touch higher than 1+1 too.
You will be able to hunt about for 1+2 times but after some experimentation you will be able to dial in on what works for you.
FWIW I find I get absolutely identical speed from Xtolk 1+2 and DDX 1+7. I've compared lots of films side by side and can see no difference whatsoever (and thats in broadly contrast matched negs of the same subject).
Like most, I also develop for longer than Ilford times suggest for D3200 as with ilford time the hegs are super flat. Off the top of my head, my times are about 17-18 mins 24 degs C 1+2 rated at 1000/1200 on the Mamiya 7, spot metering for a midtone, roughly and recomposing using AEL. I only ever use my Mamiya in this metering mode, or alternatively manual when on a tripod.
DDX 1+4 is unnecessarily costly and I personally cannot see why anyone would waste the money over and above diluting it further. Image quality does not appear to suffer and the times for other films are a bit longer which often helps as 1+4 can be a bit quick. Xtol 1+2 is great and means 15L working solution from a $10 5L bag. Thats $1 to develop 5 rolls of 35mm - not bad.
JCT
Established
Thanks Michiel-- guess I'll just give 24oC a try, it was just that I have standardized on 20oC and knowing me I'll forget and use 20oC instead of 24oC :bang: .
OK, Turtle, now I have to try your xtol 1:2 with the delta3200
.
I've been very happy with xtol once I decided to stick to one developer for awhile.
I've been cleaning up an old Rolleicord Vb for my sister and usually use Neopan 400 to "check things out" -- I really think that film was made for that camera. Sending along a big brick of it when I surprise her with the camera for the holidays.
JT
OK, Turtle, now I have to try your xtol 1:2 with the delta3200
.I've been very happy with xtol once I decided to stick to one developer for awhile.
I've been cleaning up an old Rolleicord Vb for my sister and usually use Neopan 400 to "check things out" -- I really think that film was made for that camera. Sending along a big brick of it when I surprise her with the camera for the holidays.
JT
Turtle
Mentor
JCT,
Neopan should be in every camera! It' s a great film and one of my favourites. It just seems one of the most usable and reliable combinations no matter what you do with it. I dont push mine however. Lovely in Xtol in 120 or 35mm.
Neopan 1600 at about 500/640 in Xtol 1+3 is a great stop gap between, for me, Neopan 400 at 250-320 (in my leicas or 320-400 in Mamiya 7) and D3200 at about 1200.
Neopan should be in every camera! It' s a great film and one of my favourites. It just seems one of the most usable and reliable combinations no matter what you do with it. I dont push mine however. Lovely in Xtol in 120 or 35mm.
Neopan 1600 at about 500/640 in Xtol 1+3 is a great stop gap between, for me, Neopan 400 at 250-320 (in my leicas or 320-400 in Mamiya 7) and D3200 at about 1200.
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bwcolor
Mentor
Have any of you tried Delta 3200 and Perceptol? Curious regarding film speed, grain and tonality.
Turtle
Mentor
Not tried it, but I would guess that in neat perceptol, true speed would come down to about 640-800 and grain would lose its bite. In 1+3, speed would more likely be in the 800-1000 category.
Prob is that unless you are pulling out as much speed as possible with Xtol/DDX/Microphen etc, you don't have much of a speed advantage over the 400 speed films and with D3200, the grain is a fair bit more coarse. D3200 is particularly good in 120 IMO. I would say the grain 120 is comparable as I use it, to a fine grained 400 speed film/dev combo off 35mm printed to the same size, like D400 or maybe Neopan 400. The look, however, is somehow quite different and particularly beautiful with the right subject. I just like it a whole lot more.
Debusti Paolo
Well-known
I would like to see some shots @6400 in 120 format:bang::bang:
bwcolor
Mentor
Thanks for all the replies. I ordered 20 rolls of Delta 3200 and have Xtol, so I will start with Xtol and also try Xtol/Rodinal combination. I'll give Perceptol a go down the road.
bwcolor
Mentor
I tried my first Delta 3200 and Xtol 1+2 @ISO 1200 20 deg. for 24 minutes. Results are promising. I would like to reduce base fog a bit.
percepts
Established
Delta 3200 was designed specifically for use with Microphen developer. With Microphen using Ilfords times and dilutions you will get a true 3200 speed film.
In 35mm it is quite grainy though.
D3200 is a low contrast film which allows developing in speed increasing developers such as Microphen or DDX without causing excessive contrast.
Uinsg any other developer and the speed drops off significantly but you also get smaller grain.
With DDX you will get 1600 speed. I haven't tried xtol but a lot of people seem to like it.
The films so called true speed of 1000 to 1200 is based on ISO tests using ID11 as the developer. ID11 is not a high contrast developer like DDX and especially Microphen are.
So for ultimate speed use Microphen at 3200 but more grain. DDX at 1600 with less grain or something else for slower speed.
Speed in Perceptol is 640. stock 20mins @ 20degC
All my tests were done using 35mm film
at 3200 in microphen you will get normal contrast with highlights well under control. If you are not enlarging too much then using 120 film, grain should be reasonable.
In 35mm it is quite grainy though.
D3200 is a low contrast film which allows developing in speed increasing developers such as Microphen or DDX without causing excessive contrast.
Uinsg any other developer and the speed drops off significantly but you also get smaller grain.
With DDX you will get 1600 speed. I haven't tried xtol but a lot of people seem to like it.
The films so called true speed of 1000 to 1200 is based on ISO tests using ID11 as the developer. ID11 is not a high contrast developer like DDX and especially Microphen are.
So for ultimate speed use Microphen at 3200 but more grain. DDX at 1600 with less grain or something else for slower speed.
Speed in Perceptol is 640. stock 20mins @ 20degC
All my tests were done using 35mm film
at 3200 in microphen you will get normal contrast with highlights well under control. If you are not enlarging too much then using 120 film, grain should be reasonable.