thegman
Mentor
Hi,
After getting some rubbish scans back from my lab, and paying through the nose to Ilford to get some scans, I'm thinking the best course of action could be to get myself a scanner. I think the Epson V700 is best for me, at the moment I only shoot 35mm but I don't rule out medium format in the future, so a Coolscan is not for me.
Anyone here use a V700 on an Intel Mac? Is the software OK? Any thoughts?
I know some people feel a dedicated scanner like the Nikon is best, but it's 35mm only, discontinued and more expensive than the new V700. I've looked on Flickr for example scans and the V700 seem *more than enough* for me.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Garry
After getting some rubbish scans back from my lab, and paying through the nose to Ilford to get some scans, I'm thinking the best course of action could be to get myself a scanner. I think the Epson V700 is best for me, at the moment I only shoot 35mm but I don't rule out medium format in the future, so a Coolscan is not for me.
Anyone here use a V700 on an Intel Mac? Is the software OK? Any thoughts?
I know some people feel a dedicated scanner like the Nikon is best, but it's 35mm only, discontinued and more expensive than the new V700. I've looked on Flickr for example scans and the V700 seem *more than enough* for me.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Garry
Last edited:
djorourke
Member
I use my V700 with my Macbook Pro. They work well together.
I'm a long way from mastering the art of scanning, but I only have myself to blame, and not the computer or software.
For scanning 120 I own the betterscanning holder. It was worth the extra money.
Good luck!
I'm a long way from mastering the art of scanning, but I only have myself to blame, and not the computer or software.
For scanning 120 I own the betterscanning holder. It was worth the extra money.
Good luck!
thegman
Mentor
So you guys scan 35mm successfully, it does not warp too much?
drewbarb
picnic like it's 1999
One problem here is that it's generally accepted that dedicated 35mm scanners will do a better job with 35mm film than any flatbed, so if you are serious about getting good quality scans from 35mm and larger format films, you will likely want at least two different scanners.
Then, there is the point Double Negative makes about software. They all really do suck- and in different ways. I mostly work with black and white film. I prefer to scan using Silverfast AI; the interface looks a little dated, and it can be awkward and cumbersome to learn, but I find it to be the most thorough in it's capability once you tackle the learning curve. I get results I am more than happy with from black and white originals, both positives and negatives. However, I have yet to get good and consistent with it using color. Perhaps there is better software for color? I've tried a few and have yet to find a method that gives me great results every time without lots of tweaking on each image, both pre- and post-scan. This is annoying.
So my advice is this: first, get a good 35mm scanner now. If you want to try medium or large format in the future, get a flatbed then; but a dedicated 35mm scanner will give you better results for what you shoot now. Second- experiment with as many versions of scanning software as you can lay your hands on and see what works best with your combination of hardware, software, and your personal style. Good luck, and let us know how you get on.
Then, there is the point Double Negative makes about software. They all really do suck- and in different ways. I mostly work with black and white film. I prefer to scan using Silverfast AI; the interface looks a little dated, and it can be awkward and cumbersome to learn, but I find it to be the most thorough in it's capability once you tackle the learning curve. I get results I am more than happy with from black and white originals, both positives and negatives. However, I have yet to get good and consistent with it using color. Perhaps there is better software for color? I've tried a few and have yet to find a method that gives me great results every time without lots of tweaking on each image, both pre- and post-scan. This is annoying.
So my advice is this: first, get a good 35mm scanner now. If you want to try medium or large format in the future, get a flatbed then; but a dedicated 35mm scanner will give you better results for what you shoot now. Second- experiment with as many versions of scanning software as you can lay your hands on and see what works best with your combination of hardware, software, and your personal style. Good luck, and let us know how you get on.
wray
Well-known
Here's a 35mm scan done with the V700 and Intel Mac using the Epson software. I only scan once my negs are well flattened.
thegman
Mentor
Scanning via Preview sounds great, I know the software it'll come with is likely awkward and dated.
I fully appreciate the Coolscan is better for 35mm, but the fact it's discontinued and more expensive is an issue.
I fully appreciate the Coolscan is better for 35mm, but the fact it's discontinued and more expensive is an issue.
drewbarb
picnic like it's 1999
Wray- that's a great looking scan from the V700- better then I can get from my i900 for sure.
BTW- there are other 35mm scanners besides the Coolscan. Sure, the Nikons were highly regarded, but there are (or at least were) others. Polaroid, Microtek, and Minolta all made dedicated 35mm scanners that were highly regarded and can still give good results. I've seen many good comments about some of the Plustek offerings, too, for things still in production. I understand being hesitant about using older discontinued electronic equipment- it is a valid concern. But of course you can get some good deals on some of this stuff, and it will still work.
Film flatness and getting the plane of focus just right is really the issue, and if the V700 can do it (and I'd say wray's scan demonstrates it certainly can) then why not? Maybe I've just been convinced I only need one scanner... now, about that software...
BTW- there are other 35mm scanners besides the Coolscan. Sure, the Nikons were highly regarded, but there are (or at least were) others. Polaroid, Microtek, and Minolta all made dedicated 35mm scanners that were highly regarded and can still give good results. I've seen many good comments about some of the Plustek offerings, too, for things still in production. I understand being hesitant about using older discontinued electronic equipment- it is a valid concern. But of course you can get some good deals on some of this stuff, and it will still work.
Film flatness and getting the plane of focus just right is really the issue, and if the V700 can do it (and I'd say wray's scan demonstrates it certainly can) then why not? Maybe I've just been convinced I only need one scanner... now, about that software...
kipkeston
Well-known
35photo
Well-known
I use Silverfast software with my V750 on a Intel Mac no programs with OS 10.5. Great scanner for Medium and Large format. If you are scanning Transparencies you should do a custom calibration to get spot on color.
Marko
Marko
Colman
Established
Vuescan on the new 27" iMac i7 and a V700. All works well, though I don't do 35mm - I have a LS-50 for that.
thegman
Mentor
MBP 13" + V750 user here. I scan with Vuescan, only serious choice for scanning.
I just started scanning medium format and I think the results are good.
A link to the 1600dpi version here
I thinks the results are fantastic!
If I can get that sort of result with 35mm I'll be delighted.
Just another thing, I think I'm set on the V700, but what dedicated 35mm scanners should I be looking at other than the Coolscan? I've not heard good things about the Plusteks, anything else?
Thanks
Garry
__hh
-
My setup is the V700 with the latest Mac Mini. No complaints on the OEM Epson Scan software. Works great.
mgd711
Medium Format Baby!!
I'm also using a V700 on Snow Leopard with no issues.
As stated all the scanning software has it's faults but I'm happy with the results I get using the Epson software. I tried Vuescan and Silverfast and found the learning curve a bit steep and the whole process slower than using the Epson software, important consideration when you shoot a lot off film. Generally I print 35mm scan's to 13x19 paper (with an inch or so border) on an iPF5100 and I'm happy with the results.
As stated all the scanning software has it's faults but I'm happy with the results I get using the Epson software. I tried Vuescan and Silverfast and found the learning curve a bit steep and the whole process slower than using the Epson software, important consideration when you shoot a lot off film. Generally I print 35mm scan's to 13x19 paper (with an inch or so border) on an iPF5100 and I'm happy with the results.
swoop
Well-known
I own an intel iMac and and a V700 and the pair works just fine. It came with silverfast but I couldn't bother to learn the thing so I use the epson application. It's simple enough. Although it kind of crops the negatives a bit unless you want to size each frame manually.
__hh
-
update... after using the V700 for a while in hot weather, I notice that it curls the film up WAY TOO MUCH. When the lid is closed, and the high intensity light heats up the film, the resulting film strip curls so much that the scan progressively gets blurry.
I recently bought the betterscanning ANR glass inserts and had to remove the clips for full size (6 per strip) scanning. As a result, the curling is too strong for the glass and unacceptable results occur.
This is really giving me the @#$%. Any suggestions?
It defeats the whole purpose of having fine gear (M bodies and Leica glass) and having $%^* scans!!!!
Ranchu
-
You will need to buy a film scanner. I couldn't handle all the screwing around with a flatbed, so I got a nikon. Sorry.
Ranchu
-
If you need to scan till then, I ran across a technique of putting the film directly on the scanner glass, emulsion down (omit the holder and ANR glass) with a smooth edged, worn coin on each adjacent frame of the one you want to scan. You might have to fool the scanner into thinking the holder is in it (tabs on the side of the holder?), can't recall. You could give that a shot...
Last edited:
__hh
-
Doug from Betterscanning.com contacted me privately and gave me some good advice on getting the most out of the ANR inserts (including the use of adhesive tape on the end).
At the same time, I also discovered that I could cut two strips of thick cardboard (about 3/4 of a cm) and run them across the 4 glass inserts on each end. The top of the scanner now pushes the glass down evenly and now my negs are flat and sharp.
Again, this is a problem with the design of the flatbeds in general. I just happen to notice that my negs get really hot after a cycle of scanning (and even just a preview pass) and this causes the negs to curl up.
This issue has nothing to do with the design of the ANR inserts. I simply think that they are great and the results are now astounding.
At the same time, I also discovered that I could cut two strips of thick cardboard (about 3/4 of a cm) and run them across the 4 glass inserts on each end. The top of the scanner now pushes the glass down evenly and now my negs are flat and sharp.
Again, this is a problem with the design of the flatbeds in general. I just happen to notice that my negs get really hot after a cycle of scanning (and even just a preview pass) and this causes the negs to curl up.
This issue has nothing to do with the design of the ANR inserts. I simply think that they are great and the results are now astounding.
