ray*j*gun
Mentor
Hi,
As I use my M4-P more and more with Ektar and Fujichrome (and even for some B&W), I have found my exposures have been off. I have not used meters much over the years but I am finding I am wasting too much film......so what is the best value in a true spot meter....size is not an issue and analogue or digital is fine. If this is the wrong forum I apologize to the moderators.
Thanks!!!
As I use my M4-P more and more with Ektar and Fujichrome (and even for some B&W), I have found my exposures have been off. I have not used meters much over the years but I am finding I am wasting too much film......so what is the best value in a true spot meter....size is not an issue and analogue or digital is fine. If this is the wrong forum I apologize to the moderators.
Thanks!!!
benmacphoto
Well-known
I had a sekonic l-558. That has a great spot meter.
Pickett Wilson
Mentor
I have both a Minolta Spotmeter F and a Pentax V. Both get the job done. I think I actually prefer the Minolta, though. The Sekonic 558 is an excellent and more flexible.
I'm not sure a spotmeter will solve your problem, though. It's more a specialist tool that takes some interpretation to use well. More a tool for slower kinds of photography.
I use mine for metering stage lighting from a distance, performers under spots, metering things I can't get close to, etc.
I'm not sure a spotmeter will solve your problem, though. It's more a specialist tool that takes some interpretation to use well. More a tool for slower kinds of photography.
I use mine for metering stage lighting from a distance, performers under spots, metering things I can't get close to, etc.
The Pentax Digital Spotmeter is really top-notch and simple. It is an older, solid design with LEDs in a pleasing viewfinder, then an analog calculator in the lens barrel. It's ergonomic, accurate, and rugged.
Expect to pay $350 or so.
Some spot meters are fun for the TSA because they kind of look like guns. Be careful using them around sensitive areas so you won't be shot. I am dead serious.
Expect to pay $350 or so.
Some spot meters are fun for the TSA because they kind of look like guns. Be careful using them around sensitive areas so you won't be shot. I am dead serious.
ray*j*gun
Mentor
Thank you guys.....I'm having real issues with shadows Pickett and my friend told me i needed a really good spot meter to get that right. I do have a couple of compact meters (one in my Avatar) but they don't seem to be solving the problem.
Again ....thank you for your suggestions.
Again ....thank you for your suggestions.
martin s
Well-known
I like the spotmeter in the Sekonic l-508, even though I barely use it. You have to meter and check the display in order for it to work, so it's not as usable as it might be with Led's in the finder. If you can deal with that, it's pretty amazing (has 1°-4° zoom, too)
Check out the LL-Link here, they discuss both the l-508 and l-558.
martin
Check out the LL-Link here, they discuss both the l-508 and l-558.
martin
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Damaso
Photojournalist
I second the Sekonic 508 a great meter. But even more importantly you need to learn the ZONE System in order to use the meter properly...
Roger Hicks
Mentor
Having tried most of them, I'd back the Minolta for ease of use, the Pentax analogue for ruggedness and simplicity, the SEI Photometer for precision and accuracy, and the Pentax digital as an excellent compromise (it's Frances's favourite). The Gossen is, well, um, usable, rugged and accurate, just huge and idiosyncratic.
I completely disagree with Damaso about the Zone System, though. It's a total irrelevance with spot meters. Use the shadow index or IRE 1 for shadows and the highlight index or IRE 10 for highlights. Remember that the Zone System is a subset of sensitometry, over-simplified in some ways and over-complicated in others. If it works for you, great, but if it doesn't, dismiss it without a backward glance. You may find the following piece, on why Frances and I don't use the Zone System, of interest. http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps zone.html
Cheers,
R.
I completely disagree with Damaso about the Zone System, though. It's a total irrelevance with spot meters. Use the shadow index or IRE 1 for shadows and the highlight index or IRE 10 for highlights. Remember that the Zone System is a subset of sensitometry, over-simplified in some ways and over-complicated in others. If it works for you, great, but if it doesn't, dismiss it without a backward glance. You may find the following piece, on why Frances and I don't use the Zone System, of interest. http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps zone.html
Cheers,
R.
R
rpsawin
Guest
I second all of the above. I use one for all my landscape work and find it to be an excellent choice. BTW...the "gun" issue is no joke. I've had some very strong reactions from people until I show them what it is...kinda funny but potentially not.
Best regards,
Bob
Damaso
Photojournalist
I recommended the Zone System as a handy reference guide. Like many other systems you can go full out, doing the elaborate testing etc. I certainly don't go that far. But understanding the basic principals of zone system metering help a lot, something I think you illustrate in your linked post. But just pointing a spot meter to a black area or a white area and using that given exposure without understanding that a meter exposes for medium gray won't produce better results.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
First of all the Zone System is a exposure system that implies compensating in development - which can only be done on black and white sheet film or on a enormous budget. Spotmeters can also be used for the "expose for the shadows" (respectively highlights for slide film) rule or a combination of that with incident light metering.
And back to the topic: My all-time favourite is the Minolta Auto-Spot 1° - almost as big as a cine camera and eats batteries, but it has a glorious finder, and that illuminated motor driven in-finder calculator display is sheer luxury...
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Roger Hicks
Mentor
You'll only do that if you use the (completely pointless) mid-tone index instead of the highlight/IRE 10 or shadow/IRE 1 indices. IRE indices are not the Zone system. The only basic principle of the Zone System that is completely useful and orginal is the naming of Zones, and the limitations of that are well illustrated by the fact that they started out with 9 zones, then stretched it to 10, then to 11.
Sorry to be a bit strident about it but Zonies tend to be so strident in their own right, forgetting that the Zone System is a subset of sensitometry rather than its fons et origo, that I sometimes feel the need to redress the balance.
Cheers,
R.
oftheherd
Mentor
I think if you want to use a spot meter for 'chromes, you are going to have to do some reading and experimentation. I would suggest a good incident meter for chromes. My personal favorite is the Sekonic L28c2, but one of the newer Sekonics with incident and spot combined might be better. I just think the larger dome is an advantage. I prefer it over the Gossen Luna Pro SBC I have for incident.
The Gossen Luna Pro SBC does have the advantage having a spot attachment; two if you count the 7/15 degree attachment that is often sold on ebay as a spot attachment. I don't know what Mr. Hicks means by idiosycratic, but it is big in combination with the Luna Pro SBC, which isn't a small meter either. But if any of your shooting is going to be in available darkness, it is hard to beat. It isn't called a Luna Pro for nothing.
The Gossen Luna Pro SBC does have the advantage having a spot attachment; two if you count the 7/15 degree attachment that is often sold on ebay as a spot attachment. I don't know what Mr. Hicks means by idiosycratic, but it is big in combination with the Luna Pro SBC, which isn't a small meter either. But if any of your shooting is going to be in available darkness, it is hard to beat. It isn't called a Luna Pro for nothing.
Roger Hicks
Mentor
Well, yes. As I said, a subset of sensitometry. I don't quite see your point on this one. But I totally agree that an artificial highlight (incident light metering) is easier than spot metering a highlight.
Cheers.
R.
Roger Hicks
Mentor
I meant that it requires a certain willingness to adapt to Gossen's world picture; it is not exactly intuitive.
Actually, I was referring to the Spotmeter 2, not the attachment.
Cheers,
R.
robklurfield
eclipse
if you can live with 10 degrees you might be able to find a used Minolta (autometer, flashmeter f, etc.) with the spot attachment for a reasonable price. I've had one for ages and it still does the trick.
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
I have a Sekonic L-408, which while it only has a 5° spot meter, is more compact than the L-508. I also believe it is less expensive and splash waterproof.
Highly recommended.
Highly recommended.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Roger,
Modern spot meters are all digital and do not have those indices. I think the Minolta F has a highlight and a shadow button, but no others do. The Gossen has a Zone System function built in but it is extremely cumbersome to use (and I do use the zone system....but not with the Gossen's zone mode!)
Damaso
Photojournalist
Roger Hicks
Mentor
Dear Chris,
Sorry, I was indeed talking about the older ones, Pentax (both models), Minolta, SEI. 'Extremely cumbersome' is outrageous flattery for the Gossen: it's nothing like as convenient as that implies!
Cheers,
R.
Sorry, I was indeed talking about the older ones, Pentax (both models), Minolta, SEI. 'Extremely cumbersome' is outrageous flattery for the Gossen: it's nothing like as convenient as that implies!
Cheers,
R.