Struggling to finish a roll of 36 exposure

One of the reasons I enjoy shooting more digital is just this.

I cannot recall how many times I either had a roll of film developed with half of it still unused or I took multiple crap images just to finish it off so I could get it developed. I did the calculations and found that probably every good image I used cost me about $10 after accounting for film cost, developing cost and the negatives I threw away because they did not turn out well enough or because I used them up on "nothing" images just for the sake of finishing the roll.

I do now keep one film roll on the go in whatever is my current favorite film camera and am willing to leave it in the camerra till it is eventually all exposed - the main problem with this strategy being that I iwll oftne forget what type of film it is and its speed, so I still run the risk of losing some images.
 
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bwidjaja said:
Hope this is the right forum to ask.
I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again. I have shot both 35mm and MF. As I am only occasionally shooting on the evenings or weekends, many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?

Thank you in advance.
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No to the highlight - once you start your own development, experiment to find `your' preferred film.
regards,
CW
 
I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).
 
DNG said:
I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).
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I'm using 5x7 and shooting 35 frames on a 36 exp. roll. (I can't find binder that can hold 10 6x7 shots though. :( )
 
I use one body per lighting condition, mainly one for overcast and one for contrast with shadows. Into these I load just what I want to shoot, usually 15 frames that load up quickly and good to the last frame thanks to my Bobinquick bulk loaders. I do this is because I like to shoot the roll, develop, and proof soon after shooting, and tailoring exposure and development of the film rolls to the lighting conditions makes for more satisfying printing.

Two rolls of 15 fit nicely on an 8x10 proof sheet.
 
Like Film Fan and a few others have said, I have noted the frame number and wound film back into the cassette. I still do sometimes but I have also accidently double exposed a few rolls. Once some irreplaceable shots in Europe. Unless you are attached to a particular camera, a better way is own multiple bodies. At today's prices this doesn't have to be expensive. In addition to a few inexpensive fixed lense rangefinders, I have a few older manual Minolta SLR's, bought very cheaply on eBay. I know Minolta doesn't get a lot of respect, but most of the lenses are high quality and the cameras are very durable. If you want to experiment and have a lot of fun with different types of film, this is a good way to go.

Here's another option if you process your own B&W. Open up the camera back in your darkroom, cut the film and wind the exposed half onto your processing reel. Recut the leader on the unexposed side and you now have a a roll of homemade 15 or 20 exposure. This way you get to change films and you get to see your exposed shots a lot sooner.
 
A contrasting view:

I seldom finish a 36 exposure roll because when I get to close to 30 frames and there is a break in the action, I rewind and put in a new roll. I never want to find a subject and only have 1-2 frames left on the roll. My photo style is such that my photo ops disappear while I would be changing film. If I am shooting something that will wait, I won't be shooting 35mm. It will be MF.

While I burn a lot of film and edit out 96-98% of what I shoot, I don't feel like I have wasted many frames. I still can learn something from each reject even if it is only not to waste my time on that subject again.
 
I don't enjoy shooting 36-roll exposures for the most part, however, some of my garbage-shots-just-to-finish-the-roll shots have turned out decent :)
 
DNG said:
I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).
Click to expand...

Print File archival preservers 35-7 will hold 6 frame negs with 7 rows. I use the last row to insert a paper with negative information..
 
24 is probably the ideal number of exposures for me. I tend to get impatient after that and want to see what I've done (the last dozen shots on a roll of 36 always seem to take the longest).

Having multiple cameras loaded with different kinds of film helps with the problem of matching the film stock to the lighting conditions/subject. I usually take two cameras with me when I'm specifically out to shoot: a full-sized rangefinder or SLR (shhh), and a compact (Contax TVS or Leica Minilux), one loaded with B&W (usually 400), the other with colour (ideally slower and/or slide film). I'll mix up the lens too (e.g., if I take the Minilux, I'll grab a 25 and 90 for my Bessa R3A; or put a fast 50 on the Bessa and take the TVS). I usually stick to my main camera, but I have the second in case something screams colour (or black and white as the case may be), or wide angle or whatever. The goal isn't to be covered for every situation, but to have creative options. One advantage to having rolls going in multiple cameras is that one of them is always getting close to the end, which mitigates my impatience somewhat.
 
peterm1 said:
One of the reasons I enjoy shooting more digital is just this.

I cannot recall how many times I either had a roll of film developed with half of it still unused or I took multiple crap images just to finish it off so I could get it developed. I did the calculations and found that probably every good image I used cost me about $10 after accounting for film cost, developing cost and the negatives I threw away because they did not turn out well enough or because I used them up on "nothing" images just for the sake of finishing the roll.

I do now keep one film roll on the go in whatever is my current favorite film camera and am willing to leave it in the camerra till it is eventually all exposed - the main problem with this strategy being that I iwll oftne forget what type of film it is and its speed, so I still run the risk of losing some images.
Click to expand...
My situation exactly!.....I sometimes have three or four cameras with part exposed film - and have forgotten what is on them!:D
 
36exp only, for me. For color I pay same $1 eq. to get roll developed no matter how many frames it has, same for self-processed B&W - time and water are same for 12, 24 and 36exp rolls.

Can't finish couple of frames? Shoot something you don't normally, try new combination of speed/dof, push lens to extreme, or make a self-portrait. I'd love rolls with 50 frames :)
 
24exp is a good film length for me, hence I load my own. I shoot one camera and one lens at the time. I think it's more fun that way.
 
I load from 100 foot rolls, 90% are 24 EXP, or 24 turns on the crank. Then i do a few 12`s and 36`s. I can cram 44 into the brass cassettes.

I advance to a clean frame, make note of the frames exposed and mark the film in a dark room on the clean frame. Rewind and develope just the amount I used.

My bench is marked with distances for different exposures and how long they should be.

Film requires your own darkroom.
 
filmfan said:
This is EASY.
I just rewind the film, leaving the leader out. Note the frame # on the film where it was last shot at, and then when you want to use that specific film again, you shoot through the frames with a lens cap on until you arrive at the noted frame. Easy. I do this all the time.
Click to expand...

Hard to believe it took 16 replies to get to this solution. I have done this often. Just remember to mark the canister that it is a partially exposed roll, and what frame you stopped on (don't rely on your memory or you will double expose things). Learn to always load your film to the same point, perhaps where the film leader ends, or whatever works for you. When you reload the film, leave the lens cap on, select the smallest aperture and the fastest shutter speed.

Works for me when I don't want to have two bodies with me.
 
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