weetsie
Member
im wanting to buy a fuji 690, looking at the MK3 but stuggling to find info on it.
i wondering how the 90mm compares to the 65mm version and what kind of price i should be looking to pay for one in good condition.
and are they easy enough to get repaired/serviced?
i wondering how the 90mm compares to the 65mm version and what kind of price i should be looking to pay for one in good condition.
and are they easy enough to get repaired/serviced?
noah b
Established
here is one on photo.net with the 65mm lens
http://photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=1062872
A little expensive, with that price you could get a mamiya 7 setup with an 80 or 65mm if you like 6x7.
I own the 65mm mk2 version and love it. Great depth of field when stopped down to 32. A friend of mine has the 90mm and really enjoys it. I would say either or would be a great thing to get. I can see them going between 600-900 depending on condition.
http://www.antiquecameras.net/fuji6x76x9.html
here is a price guide, but that was updated around 2008
http://photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=1062872
A little expensive, with that price you could get a mamiya 7 setup with an 80 or 65mm if you like 6x7.
I own the 65mm mk2 version and love it. Great depth of field when stopped down to 32. A friend of mine has the 90mm and really enjoys it. I would say either or would be a great thing to get. I can see them going between 600-900 depending on condition.
http://www.antiquecameras.net/fuji6x76x9.html
here is a price guide, but that was updated around 2008
weetsie
Member
thanks with that in mind im going to go for a GWS690, the mamiya 7 is out of my price range, nice as it is 
raid
Dad Photographer
I have a second G690 with 100/3.5 that I will sell here.
The lens needs some cleaning first.
The lens needs some cleaning first.
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weetsie
Member
whats a G990?
singer1924
Newbie
Gswiii-690
Gswiii-690
Hi,
I am the happy owner of a GSW690-III.
The lens (5.6/65mm) is absolutely superb. I agree that setting the diaph at 22 will give lots of depth of focus, but remember that (this is a rule of thumb) the physical limit of image resolution , measured in microns as the diameter of the "circle of confusion", is about equal to the aperture number. Because of diffraction, closing the diaphragm too much will result in poorer resolution. Closing at f/22 means that even at the centre of the image the max resolution is around 25 lines per millimetre - rather poor compared to what this lens is able to. I did not make accurate measurements but it looks like the best results are obtained at around f/8 or f/11. Similarly parasitic reflections are virtually eliminated from f/8.
To summarise, lens absolutely sharp and contrasted, very good flare resistance.
The weak point is the shutter. Mine failed due to a screw that got loose inside and went into the blades. I could buy a new shutter at about 100 USD on eBay (they also had a good second hand shutter at about 40 USD). Replacing the shutter essentially needs to unscrew the front and rear lens assemblies. Unfortunately, on mine the rear assembly was too tight and I had to remove all the lens assembly, which implies removing the rangefinder assembly and the shutter interlocks. Reassembling the shutter interlocks is rather tricky (took me several hours!) even with the maintenance book (really needed!) but now the camera works wonders.
The shutter is noisy, yes (sounds like a Fisherprice toy). Some people say the noise comes from the frame counter: this is wrong - the noise is exactly the same without the frame counter. Doesn't matter as this is more a landscape camera than a street camera.
"Plastic body": NO. On the type III some external parts that were metal on type II are plastic, yes, but the camera structure itself is solid aluminium-magnesium alloy, and very, very well made. A very solid, rigid, accurate camera.
The other weak point on the GSW690-III (not on the GW690-III) is the lens shade which does not hold in place. I suppressed it and replaced it with a screw-in "petal type" shade which is perfect for the job.
I am using several medium format cameras: two SEMFLEXes (one with Flor Berthiot 3.5/75 and the other one with the rare TN 3.5/75), a Bronica S2A (with Nikkor 3.5/50, Nikkor 2.8/75, Nikkor 3.5/135 and Zenzanon 3.5/200) and a Mamiyapress S23 (6x7 and 6x9 backs) with the 6.3/50mm, 3.5/90mm and the 2.8/100mm.
The Bronica is a fantastic pleasure to use with people: ideal in parties, weddings etc. I love the 75mm and the 200mm, the Nikkor 50 is good but not as good as the 75. The 135 is good in portraits, the 75 and 200 are very good in landscape but I dislike the square format for landscapes.
The Mamiya 100mm has a limited use, I think it is more studio-oriented. Very good but colours are flat. It gives good results in B&W though. The 50mm (ultrawide in 6x9) is excellent in landscape.
But, none of the lenses above are as ticky sharp as the Fujica 65mm (except, maybe the bronica-nikkor 2.8/75 which is a late, MC version).
My main use of the Fujica is making Fujichromes (Provia / Velvia ISO 100), scanning them (up to 6000x9000 pixels!) then trim them down to 56x72 to make "6x7" slides (into 85x85 mounts) I use in the Leitz-Linhof projector.
singer1924
Gswiii-690
Hi,
I am the happy owner of a GSW690-III.
The lens (5.6/65mm) is absolutely superb. I agree that setting the diaph at 22 will give lots of depth of focus, but remember that (this is a rule of thumb) the physical limit of image resolution , measured in microns as the diameter of the "circle of confusion", is about equal to the aperture number. Because of diffraction, closing the diaphragm too much will result in poorer resolution. Closing at f/22 means that even at the centre of the image the max resolution is around 25 lines per millimetre - rather poor compared to what this lens is able to. I did not make accurate measurements but it looks like the best results are obtained at around f/8 or f/11. Similarly parasitic reflections are virtually eliminated from f/8.
To summarise, lens absolutely sharp and contrasted, very good flare resistance.
The weak point is the shutter. Mine failed due to a screw that got loose inside and went into the blades. I could buy a new shutter at about 100 USD on eBay (they also had a good second hand shutter at about 40 USD). Replacing the shutter essentially needs to unscrew the front and rear lens assemblies. Unfortunately, on mine the rear assembly was too tight and I had to remove all the lens assembly, which implies removing the rangefinder assembly and the shutter interlocks. Reassembling the shutter interlocks is rather tricky (took me several hours!) even with the maintenance book (really needed!) but now the camera works wonders.
The shutter is noisy, yes (sounds like a Fisherprice toy). Some people say the noise comes from the frame counter: this is wrong - the noise is exactly the same without the frame counter. Doesn't matter as this is more a landscape camera than a street camera.
"Plastic body": NO. On the type III some external parts that were metal on type II are plastic, yes, but the camera structure itself is solid aluminium-magnesium alloy, and very, very well made. A very solid, rigid, accurate camera.
The other weak point on the GSW690-III (not on the GW690-III) is the lens shade which does not hold in place. I suppressed it and replaced it with a screw-in "petal type" shade which is perfect for the job.
I am using several medium format cameras: two SEMFLEXes (one with Flor Berthiot 3.5/75 and the other one with the rare TN 3.5/75), a Bronica S2A (with Nikkor 3.5/50, Nikkor 2.8/75, Nikkor 3.5/135 and Zenzanon 3.5/200) and a Mamiyapress S23 (6x7 and 6x9 backs) with the 6.3/50mm, 3.5/90mm and the 2.8/100mm.
The Bronica is a fantastic pleasure to use with people: ideal in parties, weddings etc. I love the 75mm and the 200mm, the Nikkor 50 is good but not as good as the 75. The 135 is good in portraits, the 75 and 200 are very good in landscape but I dislike the square format for landscapes.
The Mamiya 100mm has a limited use, I think it is more studio-oriented. Very good but colours are flat. It gives good results in B&W though. The 50mm (ultrawide in 6x9) is excellent in landscape.
But, none of the lenses above are as ticky sharp as the Fujica 65mm (except, maybe the bronica-nikkor 2.8/75 which is a late, MC version).
My main use of the Fujica is making Fujichromes (Provia / Velvia ISO 100), scanning them (up to 6000x9000 pixels!) then trim them down to 56x72 to make "6x7" slides (into 85x85 mounts) I use in the Leitz-Linhof projector.
singer1924
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noah b
Established
Singer, how difficult is it to find replacement parts for the fujis? I knew that one day I would have to send in for service, but would rather work on it myself. Do you know of a place that sells foam seals for the camera, things of that nature etc.
raid
Dad Photographer
The 100mm lens for the Fujica 690 cameras is awesome. I have made several 20x30 enlargements from Velvia 50 transparencies that are very sharp.
zleica
Established
TWoK,
Did you get yours from them? I really enjoy your Fuji images that you posted on FM Forum.
Kind regards,
zleica
Established
Thanks very much. I have been using a GSW690 and very happy with it. I am thinking about getting a GW690 III.
Kind regards,
JohnTF
Mentor
Love the GSW690, and most of the Fuji ilk. I really like the format, printed the 6x9 from Fuji Color negs and I used to use APX 400, which at this format, really makes a nice print with terrific tonality.
I have the interchangeable lens model as well, with a few scratches on the top, but it is probably time to sell that one as I have the GSW and the GW, let me know if you are interested.
Regards, John
I have the interchangeable lens model as well, with a few scratches on the top, but it is probably time to sell that one as I have the GSW and the GW, let me know if you are interested.
Regards, John
singer1924
Newbie
Noah, I found the replacement shutter on ebay, the seller's name was "romancamerarepair" but it looks like they don't have shutters at the moment. I believe they can be found from other sellers on eBay. The shutter is probably the only part subject to wear and replacement. I suggest you buy the repair instruction manual anyway, and only buy the shutter when you need one. Normally it should go problem free for 5000 images i.e. counter to 500. On second hand cameras don't rely on the counter, as it is extremely easy to turn the counter wheels and put anything. Usually if slow speeds are good then no worry. On mine I think the shutter had already been replaced by a bad technician - who overtightened many screws and undertightened other ones, hence the screw getting into the blades! Fortunately the optics were absolutely perfect so it was more than worth the repair. I know I am quite adventurous and tend to repair myself about everything (engines, gearboxes, piano actions...) and the Fujica was not super easy (a Leica II is very easy) but still much, much easier than any medium format SLR, so normally left to a professional technician but not impossible to the late evening hobbyist familiar with tinkering cameras and willing to spend hours to understand the whys and hows of the camera. The only really complex thing in the Fuji is the winder/shutter cocking/film advance control/interlocking mechanism. It has to be much more complex than on a 35mm film camera because of the absence of holes in the film sides. The rangefinder is much simpler and less refined than on a Leica - not quite as clear and comfortable but it does its task faultlessly.
weetsie
Member
thanks guys, had a bid on a GSW690III but it went for £482 to the other bidder.
i will be keeping a look out for another when its listed.
i will be keeping a look out for another when its listed.
kuzano
Mentor
Wow... $734 US dollars!!!
Wow... $734 US dollars!!!
Presuming it was a nice camera with a moderate shutter count, that was a steal on price.
I don't know about Europe, but my impression has been that UK and European prices are often more than here in the US.
And, here in the US a nice GSWIII690 generally sells for a low of $900 and often $1000 or more. Somebody occasionally hits an Auction on eBay just right and scores one for around $800, but that's rare.
I'd expect to pay that price for a model II. The 65mm lens alone in the 5.6 f stop for the interchangable G690 or bl usually runs around $600.
Wow... $734 US dollars!!!
Presuming it was a nice camera with a moderate shutter count, that was a steal on price.
I don't know about Europe, but my impression has been that UK and European prices are often more than here in the US.
And, here in the US a nice GSWIII690 generally sells for a low of $900 and often $1000 or more. Somebody occasionally hits an Auction on eBay just right and scores one for around $800, but that's rare.
I'd expect to pay that price for a model II. The 65mm lens alone in the 5.6 f stop for the interchangable G690 or bl usually runs around $600.
Luna
Well-known
Wow! A grand!? I just got a *mint* (counter is about to turn to 5) GSW690 II for close to $450. Actually, TWoK found the deal, I just insisted that I needed it more then he did
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kuzano
Mentor
Good deal (Half good deal-Half difference II to III)
Good deal (Half good deal-Half difference II to III)
That's a good deal, and about half is attributable to the good deal and half is attributable to the perceptions of a II to a III.
While I have never experienced the difference, there is a perception among people who use these camera's that the II model has a couple of issues corrected in the III.
I would buy a II just as easily as a III since the prices are quite a bit better and the lenses are the same. I also have a good and reasonable source for repair.
You did get a good deal, but I stand by my pricing on the III model prices for low-count cameras. I watch these on eBay weekly.
I would expect that your camera should have been more like $600 to $700 IF the counter has not been reset. It's easy to do..
Good deal (Half good deal-Half difference II to III)
Wow! A grand!? I just got a *mint* (counter is about to turn to 5) GSW690 II for close to $450. Actually, TWoK found the deal, I just insisted that I needed it more then he did
That's a good deal, and about half is attributable to the good deal and half is attributable to the perceptions of a II to a III.
While I have never experienced the difference, there is a perception among people who use these camera's that the II model has a couple of issues corrected in the III.
I would buy a II just as easily as a III since the prices are quite a bit better and the lenses are the same. I also have a good and reasonable source for repair.
You did get a good deal, but I stand by my pricing on the III model prices for low-count cameras. I watch these on eBay weekly.
I would expect that your camera should have been more like $600 to $700 IF the counter has not been reset. It's easy to do..
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iamzip
Ambitious, but rubbish
I would encourage anyone looking for one of these cameras to keep an eye on KEH. I just received a bargain GW690II from them for less than $400 US. High shot count, but appears to be in good working order. They currently have some 690's for less than $700 US, and they do ship internationally, although I don't have any experience with that.
kuzano
Mentor
Please don't get me wrong....
Please don't get me wrong....
I wasn't implying he got a deal because his counter was reset. I just don't think one should rely on shutter count for valuing what to pay on these cameras.
The fellow who works on mine... Frank Marshman... has told me more than once, and he says that Fuji service says the same... Don't pay any attention to the suggestion for service at 5000 actuations. The shutters, if working properly and the camera treated well, will often go twice the count.
Almost all of my Fuji's except for my GSW690III have been fairly high count actuations.
Sorry if it sounded like I was questioning the validity of that low count. Tons of these cameras have been purchased, sat in the bag for years and are low count.
My personal preference is for a camera that's been exercised regularly and well cared for. That does not necessarily mean serviced or CLA'd.
Please don't get me wrong....
I wasn't implying he got a deal because his counter was reset. I just don't think one should rely on shutter count for valuing what to pay on these cameras.
The fellow who works on mine... Frank Marshman... has told me more than once, and he says that Fuji service says the same... Don't pay any attention to the suggestion for service at 5000 actuations. The shutters, if working properly and the camera treated well, will often go twice the count.
Almost all of my Fuji's except for my GSW690III have been fairly high count actuations.
Sorry if it sounded like I was questioning the validity of that low count. Tons of these cameras have been purchased, sat in the bag for years and are low count.
My personal preference is for a camera that's been exercised regularly and well cared for. That does not necessarily mean serviced or CLA'd.
Michael I.
Well-known
I REALLY want one, but i need to sell my bronica SQ kit to fund it, and have no luck with it in the mean while
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
They should go at least a magnitude or two beyond that - I am not aware of any Seiko/Copal shutter specified for 5000 actuations, even 50.000 is still a conservative figure, some of their shutters go to ten or twenty times that.
A service interval at a mere 5000 actuations cannot be shutter specific, it must be for all of the camera. And to me it seems to have been targeted at the main market of these cameras, tour leaders doing group portraits of Japanese bus tourists, who were assumed to be ignorant of cameras and their operation, required very high reliability nonetheless, and were willing to pay for a "carefree and careless" package to get that.
Sevo