Shopping for 35mm film development kit

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paulfish4570

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35mm, black and white only.
And speaking of hardware kits, freestyle has one for about $50. I looked up the items for single-purchase and there are some savings there. I could buy locally, but at higher cost. I have been reading the excellent advice in this forum on reels and such.
I will buy chemicals locally. Tri-X will be my film, I reckon, although the local supply house has Kentmere and Ilford, too. Is Kentmere re-badged Ilford?
Key question: which developer for Tri-X? This local shop has Ilford and Kodak products, powdered and liquid and one-shot. What say ye on developer for Tri-X, and why?
I will not do more than a roll or two (max) at a whack. No darkroom, per se, but our bathroom is light-tight. I will scan my negatives, so no need to get back into printing - for now ... 8)

Thanks.
 
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go to the local place and get bottle of Kodak HC110 and use it for the TriX.. do a search for some suggested mix ratios and times for TriX and HC110 also check Digitaltruth.com for their 'massive development chart' times and film / developer combinations. Tri X lasts a long time before expiring. Alternatively use Rodinal which also has a long shelf life. Get some wetting agent like Kodak Foto-flo. You'll also need a fixer and Kodak's is satisfactory.

Search on Ebay or even Craigslist for a Paterson "Super System 4" three reel tank or two reel tank with spools. Used beakers for measuring will be fine or any marked measurement container for preparing the devoper and fixer
 
I second Jan's advice on the HC-110. This stuff last a long time & you can mix it one shot with a syrenge. I use D-76 too but it always expires before I use it all up. (I don't shoot enough) I'm also liking the rodinal as a one shot developer. As for fixer I prefer the Ilford Rapid Fixer (liquid) to the powdered Kodak fixer. Do invest in a bottle of Photo Flo. I never have a problem with spots or anything & it will last you forever. I bought some of my stuff on ebay like a changing bag for spooling my negs. I wouldn't skimp on a tank. I got a cheapo tank & it leaks sometimes when I agitate & the plastic reels aren't the best for even development either. I'd like a JOBO Tank but I have some metal tanks & reels so I will just perhaps adapt to them. BTW I like the blog!
 
Given that your usage will be small and intermittent I'd steer away from powder developers only for the reason that you have to make up a stock solution, then dilute it before use, and it can take quite while to work through the quantity involved. One-shot liquid developers are the way to go. (I have nearly a litre of ID-11 stock solution sitting and waiting - it's the same as D76 - but I'm switching to Rodinal for the reasons stated above. I too, use Ilford Rapid (liquid) fixer.
Tri-X is a great film, but too often people use an ISO 400 film when they could get very good results from (say) Plus-X at ISO 100-125 - finer grain and tonality and better DOF control. Try both. Having said that, for low light you'd still need something like Tri-X.

My Paterson Universal tank holds one or two reels of 35mm or one 120 film.
Ilford took over Kentmere who were basically print paper manufacturers and I know the Kentmere films are a cheaper product from Ilford but I'm not at all sure that the emulsion is of the same quality. I think it might be a lower cost line produced to combat some of the other "house-brand" films around.
My suggestion would be to start with a known quantity like Tri-X or Plus-X and get that right before experimenting with an unknown.
 
Oh, and one more thing - you ask about developer choice. Kodak produced their Tmax developer specifically to suit their T-grain films and Ilford did likewise with DDX to suit their Delta range. They work very well with those film types but I'm not at all sure they are any better suited to the "older" emulsions that we're talking about here than (say) Rodinal or the powder developers like D76 and ID-11. Ilford also make other liquid developers and possibly Kodak do too, which may work best and cost a little less.
Ilford's web site has a lot of product information sheets that can be downloaded as pdf's which you might find very useful.
 
Thank you all so much. I will forget the kit and pick up what I needs separately. I will NOT skimp on the reel(s). The one-shot developers sound great. I figure 1-3 rolls a week. I have a lightproof bathroom, so I do not figure on a changing bag. I may change my mind ...
 
all the comments above are good things to consider. I'd pick up a changing bag if you come across one. They are handy for a lot of things. I keep one in my truck in case I have to open my camera or when the film jams on rewind and you need to open the camera and rewind the film manually.
 
If you have a local store you can buy from look at both stainless steel and plastic tanks and reels. Plastic is considered easier to load by many people, but stainless isn't hard with a little practice either. They are also easier to clean and faster to reuse.

But is sounds like you would be doing more than one roll at a time. Regardless, you should try to get some idea of which you prefer. If you have an old or expired roll of film, you might want to take it and ask the store personnel if you can practice on both types to see which you prefer.
 
Here is what I started with end of last year:

- 1 x Paterson UNIV TANK w/REEL (SUPER SYSTEM 4)
- 3 x Paterson 32-oz BEAKER
- 1 x Ilford RAPID FIXER 1-lit
- 1 x Paterson AUTO LOAD REEL (SUPER SYSTEM 4)
- 1 x Edwal LFN WETTING AGENT 3/4-oz
- 1 x Kalt 27x30" CHANGING BAG

Around hundred bucks at B+H.

Plus a bottle of Rodinal that I received as a gift from a friend; and a thermometer, scissors, and bottle opener that I already had.

Still works perfectly.

Roland.
 
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I see you already made up your mind against a kit, and I agree. The kits I see in the Freestyle catalog contain too much stuff that you won't need for negatives-only.

I don't suppose you have a very active Craigslist down there (but what do I know?) so keep a lookout at thrift stores/yard sales. I found a Paterson, an AP, and a stainless tank just this past year. You could probably even claim dibs when your church holds its next tag sale :D Church sales are gold for this stuff.

You will need a syringe to measure your liquid concentrate if you go that route.

+1 vote for a changing bag. Much nicer to sit on the porch or watch TV or whatever while you're spooling. I also find it disorienting to be in total darkness, and from similar threads I've read, I'm not alone.
 
Well, I've only fallen once in the dark, although I've knocked everything over and had to crawl around trying to find stuff in the dark several times. Still, I continue to turn out all the lights rather than use a changing bag. For me, the changing bag doesn't work well from May thru October when the weather is hotter and more humid (NYC Metro area). I have trouble rolling the film onto my plastic reels under those conditions. The humidity seems to cause the film to stick and not roll easily onto the reels. As I do most of my shooting during those months, I would rather occationally stumble around, rather than always have a problem getting things to go smoothly.
 
^ This is true, and probably applies to Paul's location much of the year.

Plastic reels are a pain when there's the least bit of moisture, whether from not letting them dry completely or from sweaty hands. Always round over the corners on the leading end of the film, that helps. (I'm paranoid about where the various film clippings go, so I always leave the tank closed until the reel goes in.)

If you can get the hang of the metal tanks and reels, they're great. Easier to keep clean, less volume of developer needed. The reels take practice, and it can be a challenge to get the cap off the tank.

Sadly, I'm a klutz with them, and I also shoot various formats, so adjustable plastic reels work better for me.
 
Leigh, Tri-X or similar speed is necessary for me because of hand tremors related to a neurological condition. Some days are worse than others. Anyhow, I need 200-400 asa minimum for shutter speed against the shakes. I use a tripod for SLR macro stuff ...
 
That's a bummer, Paul. Actually I've noticed I'm not as steady-handed as I once was - maybe not surprising at nearly 71 - and I might have to come to the same decision before long. At A4 print size it's not showing but when I start looking at actual pixels I can see the image isn't as sharp as it should be. Go Tri-X! On the other hand, depending on whether you like grain or smooth, you could try Ilford's Delta 400 and DDX developer. It has a smoother look than Tri-X or HP5+. Probably similar to T-Max 400 in Kodak film. I'd certainly choose Delta over the older emulsions based on what I've used of it. Haven't used T-Max though.
 
I've always used a walk-in bedroom closet (at night) to load my patterson reels. Practice loading first in the light with a sacrificial roll, then try it with your eyes closed. Quickly you'll be able to visualize what is going on when there is no light.

--michael
 
I ordered tonight from B&H a Paterson plastic two-reel tank that comes with one reel, plus an extra reel. I will pick up the rest of the kit at Walmart and pet store and other such places. The chems I will get at a local pro shop. Thanks for all of the help, y'all.
Boy, you're right about humidity down here on the river. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, humidity had to be running more than 80 percent. Daytime highs were not particularly hot - 82-88F or so - but man, was it moist. Much drier today ... :)
I may go the changing bag route if I can't maintain balance in the dark. I do have issues with that because of the neuro condition. But hey, it will all work out. Besides, our bathroom is so small, I am not sure there is room to fall all the way down ... :)
 
Paul, one advantage to using a bathroom for this is that there is a place to sit...:) and so the balance thing might not be too much of an issue.
Looking forward to your results!
Rob
 
Well, I just got back from buying all the rest of the kit, including chemicals.
HC-110 was not available. Ended up with TMax developer, Kodafix and Photo-Flo for an all-Kodak chemical line-up. I will have to get some distilled water at the grocery store.
And I bought two rolls of Tri-X while I was in the pro shop. Man, that stuff is expensive when bought in a boutique, $5 per roll. :shock: (I smell some 'net shopping for film.)
As for the graduated bottles and stirrer and such, I got all of that at Walmart. Here is the cost list:
Aquarium thermometer: $1.63
Bottle opener: $1.50
Film clips, pack of six, heavy plastic with wide mouths: $1.97
Stirrer: my choice of one long-handled plastic spoon in a pack of four: $.97
1.9 liter graduated mixing jug: $1.97
3 750-milliliter graduated storage containers with screw-on lids: $2.94
Syringe for meat flavor injection graduated in milliliters: $3.97
variety pack of 4 funnels: $1.97
Timer (we have stuff to handle that): $0.
Total cost from Walmart: $16.92
Cost of Paterson Universal tank and extra reel from B&H: $31 with free shipping (saved $6 under cost at cost pro shop) .
Total non-chemical start-up cost: $46.92. I know I could haved a bunch on a used tank and reels, but I want to start clean with something I know has no defects.
Tmax developer, 757 mls (makes 1 gallon): $16.
Kodafix, 946 mls, (makes 1 gallon): $10.
Photo-Flo, 473 mls, mixes 1/200: $9. (I figure I will not to buy more of that for a long while)
Total: $81.92
What say ye? Have I forgotten anything but distilled water?

And yes, Rob, I do have a good place to sit, come to think of it ... :)
 
You might want to use a stop bath to make your fixer last longer. 1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water works fine.

Also, $5 for a roll of Tri-X isn't even bad. CVS still carries it but at $6.
 
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