ChrisN
Striving
Congratulations! Now that's an interesting way to treat C41! Is the extended stop/wash step to remove the dye base? Ilfostop after fixer?
Please show us scans! Thanks for sharing!
Please show us scans! Thanks for sharing!
Chinasaur
Well-known
Chris..
Mistyped. I stopped with water and then used Ilford rapid fixer. My bad. I used the stop bath steps from some processes I've read..too much stop/wash? Although maybe not enough based on this post..I forgot he soaked for 20-30 minutes - http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=942174&postcount=126
Either way, looks like although the pics developed, they are so dense/dark as to be unusable. Scanning without a dedicated scanner produces dark pics I can't fix with Aperture or other software. After I get the V500, I'll see what I can do and post.
Tonight is first B&W ...that'll tell the tale.
Mistyped. I stopped with water and then used Ilford rapid fixer. My bad. I used the stop bath steps from some processes I've read..too much stop/wash? Although maybe not enough based on this post..I forgot he soaked for 20-30 minutes - http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=942174&postcount=126
Either way, looks like although the pics developed, they are so dense/dark as to be unusable. Scanning without a dedicated scanner produces dark pics I can't fix with Aperture or other software. After I get the V500, I'll see what I can do and post.
Tonight is first B&W ...that'll tell the tale.
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SciAggie
Well-known
I souped another batch semi-stand. I did 10 inversions to start, 3 inversions at 20 and 40 minutes. I used 3.5 ml in 450 ml of water in a two roll tank for one roll. I have about decided that I need to shoot at an EI of 200 using arista premium 400 film.
These negatives are more consistent.
These negatives are more consistent.
ChrisN
Striving
That's a shame - but let us know how you went with the B&W.
On the wash/stop - I remember something along these lines for C41 from Lynn Miller in an earlier thread, but never tried it myself. It can't hurt - for stop I always use water, stop bath, then another water step, before moving on to fixer. Probably excessive but I don't think it does any harm and helps to keep the chemistry clean.
ChrisN
Striving
I've settled on 250 EI for my TRI-X (Arista Premium 400) and have been pretty happy with that. I'm now heading the other way - to shoot a few rolls at 400!
SciAggie
Well-known
Interesting that you say that. I have been changing ISO as I go through a roll. I mostly shoot at EI 200 for high contrast scenes and then shoot at ISO 400 for indoor or low contrast scenes. I'm still working this out. Basically I'm using the EI as an EV adjustment.
ferider
Mentor
These look great, Gary.
If you develop for scanning, the best metric for which EI to shoot are photoshop levels ....
Cheers,
Roland.
If you develop for scanning, the best metric for which EI to shoot are photoshop levels ....
Cheers,
Roland.
ChrisN
Striving
Yep - same effect. I tend to refer to my basic meter setting as EI (Exposure Index) and any variations for a particular exposure as Exposure Compensation. As Roger Hicks would point out, ISO is fixed and refers to the calibrated sensitivity of the film according to the International Standards Organisation. Here in Canberra the light tends to be fairly contrasty as a rule.
You might enjoy reading Mike Johnston's "Not Much of a System System".
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SciAggie
Well-known
Thanks! I have read it - I'm just a slow learner. It takes a while for me to really understand what I have read/ what someone is telling me.
Chinasaur
Well-known
Chris
See the original post. I posted a scan of the C-41 job. It only looked bad to the eye and on a regular scanner. On the V500, it came out ok....as a first develop AND using C-41..I'm ok with it
The pic below is from the first B&W roll last night. Again, as a first time B&W (Legacy PRO 400) develop using semi-stand (3 inv at 30min), I'm ok with it
See the original post. I posted a scan of the C-41 job. It only looked bad to the eye and on a regular scanner. On the V500, it came out ok....as a first develop AND using C-41..I'm ok with it
The pic below is from the first B&W roll last night. Again, as a first time B&W (Legacy PRO 400) develop using semi-stand (3 inv at 30min), I'm ok with it
That's a shame - but let us know how you went with the B&W.
On the wash/stop - I remember something along these lines for C41 from Lynn Miller in an earlier thread, but never tried it myself. It can't hurt - for stop I always use water, stop bath, then another water step, before moving on to fixer. Probably excessive but I don't think it does any harm and helps to keep the chemistry clean.
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Chinasaur
Well-known
First batch of pure stand using Legacy Pro 100. 1:100. 1min of invert. 59 stand.
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ChrisN
Striving
Nice tones in that!
Chinasaur
Well-known
Weyerhauser Rhododendron Garden. Legacy Pro 100. 3.2ml R-09. Inverts at 25 min (cause I didn't hear alarm ). 91% IPA rinse at end. I don't have a clue whether I'm going in the right direction or not. I'm letting the neg soak a LOT longer between 5-10-20 rinses and after fix. Straight off scanner w/ Grain reduction only. Comments/critiques(pos/neg) welcome.
). 91% IPA rinse at end. I don't have a clue whether I'm going in the right direction or not. I'm letting the neg soak a LOT longer between 5-10-20 rinses and after fix. Straight off scanner w/ Grain reduction only. Comments/critiques(pos/neg) welcome.
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zauhar
Mentor
Beautiful!
I just started using rodinal, now I feel inspired to try the stand developing thing!
Randy
I just started using rodinal, now I feel inspired to try the stand developing thing!
Randy
ChrisN
Striving
SciAggie
Well-known
I have been very pleased with the results I am getting. I have been using 3.5ml in 450ml of water for a two reel tank (one roll of film). Ten inversions to start then three inversions at 20 and 40 minutes. I belive developing at 20 degrees (or slightly less) helps control grain - that's just anecdotal, I have no real evidence. I have been shooting Arista Premium at EI 250 and I like what I'm getting. The negatives are a little flat, but process well.
Here's a shot from yesterday. Duotone was added in CS4. The entire series is here if interested: http://strickspics.zenfolio.com/p557636235
Here's a shot from yesterday. Duotone was added in CS4. The entire series is here if interested: http://strickspics.zenfolio.com/p557636235
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mto'brien
Well-known
The images (and enthusiasm) in this thread has inspired me to give 1+100 one hour stand a try. Souping some legacy pro 100 in R 1+100 as I type. I shot the roll in a few different lighting situations without a meter, best guessing the EV and bracketing when I could, so I hope the stand process will even things out a bit! I'll post some later if they turn out.
Rhodes
Time Lord
My latest 1+100 and with the last roll of agfa copex 25:
Has a bit of a light streak because I decided to use my jobo automatic tank, but need the film leader and so, I open it but could put the base of the canister back so, I loaded the filme like this and some light got in...ehehhe.
Has a bit of a light streak because I decided to use my jobo automatic tank, but need the film leader and so, I open it but could put the base of the canister back so, I loaded the filme like this and some light got in...ehehhe.
mto'brien
Well-known
first roll and i'm pretty happy. i think it did even out the different lighting situations pretty well. i will be trying more of this for sure. comments welcome.
mto'brien
Well-known
I tried some neopan 400 1+100 1hr. stand... i am really liking what I am getting out of this process. I like the grain and tones! it seems to handle light subjects shot in dark light well, like the chair shot below...
