Jupiter 12 seems to long for Kiev 4am?

Rick Beckrich said:
Ted,

For easier zone focusing;

forget "metric", think "yards".

It works for me.

Rick


No, won't work. I know I'm 1.80 meters but need to look up how many feet fit into that :)

It is so easy with metric systems, 10mm = 1cm, 100cm = 1m, 1000m = 1 km ...
But 12 inches = foot, 3 feet = 1 yard, 5 1/2 yards = 1 rod, pole or perch, 22 yards = 1 chain, 10 chains = 1 furlong, 8 furlongs = 1 mile drive me mad!


By the way, I mass some 6 16/32th stone and stand 1 rod 5 inches :)
 
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Aren't we all spoiled brats? We can't expect a 40-year-old Kiev, Zorki, or for that matter, Contax or Leica, to perform quite the way my Minolta Maxxum 7 does. I'm old enough to go back long, long before there was auto-focus, or auto- much of anything! In fact, I pre-date Hydra-Matic by 2 or 3 years. (I hope that doesn't cause blank stares.) Just be patient, set the shutter/aperture, focus, and presto, you will get pictures. (Remember to take off the lens cap!!)
 
OMG, dll, do you predate Dyna-Flo too? :D

Socke, the English system has come of age for the computer generation... at least in part. Within an inch, divisions are by powers of 2... 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16 etc. How modern is that? :) And the same with liquid measures: Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, cups, down to fluid ounces (of which there are 128 to the gallon). See? Makes perfect sense in the digital world!

I don't have a hard time with metric measures at all, though, with a few near-equivalancies kept in mind. A kilometer is about .6 mile, a meter is about 1.1 yards, a cm is about 3/8 inch, an 11mm hex wrench can substitute for 7/16 inch... 3ml to the fluid ounce, a kg is about 2.2lb, not too hard.
 
Earlier vs later

Earlier vs later

Kiev are greaf cameras.
The last ones are not so well finished as the earlier ones.
My favorites are from 1947 to 1956.
I got a lot of Kievs and it seems that if you want to know what is a Contax II for half the price then get a very nice Kiev II or IIa.
Nobody seems to talk about the pressure plate of those early kievs that give better film flatness than those from the 4 series.
Have you ever been inside a Kiev IIa and a Kiev 4 ? You will see on the first Kiev some very nice parts well finished, beautiful chrome, etc... The last Kiev reminds me some chinese toys... but they work too !
Here a picture of a 1956 IIIa just for fun...
my gallery at http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/2183
 
proper way for loading film

proper way for loading film

Tedwhite,
There's a way of loading films after some practice. I use a FSU takeup spool and cut the film lead to insert into the hole with a clip inside. After alignment, I put on the back. At this point, I rotate the shutter dial and the take up spool will sit right and I'm able to close the back. Without the rotation, it's almost impossible to close the back.

Richard



tedwhite said:
I've currently got a 4A on loan. I find it great to use with immobile subjects. The Helios 103 is a very good lens, does a fine job on skin tones. Of course I must tote along a hand-held light meter. But I'm having a hell of a time figuring out how to zone focus as I can't understand (born in the USA...) the metric system, and zoning is the only way to get fast with street shooting (as far as I know)..

Biggest gripe: Film loading. Maybe there's something wrong with this particular camera, but here's what happened. With the back off I loaded in the new film cassette (Fuji Superia, ASA 400), then rotated the advance lever to make sure the take-up spool was revolving. However, when I affixed the film leader to the take-up spool and advanced the lever, the take-up spool didn't rotate. I removed the spool and watched the two pronged gear rotate as I advanced , but I could stop it with my hand.

After something like ten minutes I finally discovered that, not only did the film perforations have to be solidly affixed to the take-up gears on either side, but I had to operate the rewing lever and stretch the film tightly - and then close the back.By the time I got the film loaded, Kennedy had been shot, the Graf Zepplin had burned, etc.
 
Easiest way to understand the metric system for the purpose of zone focusing is to realize that tall people are about 2 meters tall.
That's it. Figure your zone in people, end to end, and you got it. Someone standing about my height away? That's 2 meters. Focus, stop down, shoot, wind, done!

I'm just glad I weigh less than triple digit metric numbers.

You don't want to learn TOO much metric, or else you'll understand Europeans distain when we complain about $.60 per liter of fuel...
 
I've been writing all this down. I like the 16 stone and 1 rod 5 inches part.

WHAT ACTUALLY IRKS me is that CV, pandering the the metric crowd, put the metric scale in bright, easy-to-read white lettering, and the feet scale in muted, hard-to-read red.

(But I guess the "metric crowd" constitutes most of the world's other countries).

But we are making strides: No more Whitworth tools.

Well, got back first roll of Bessa L w/25/4. Sharp little lens, by golly.

Ted
 
You don't want to learn TOO much metric, or else you'll understand Europeans distain when we complain about $.60 per liter of fuel...
O/T but...
Can we have some at that price please? Ours is currently ~£1.30, partly due to the extortionate amount of tax (and tax on that tax, even more disgracefully).
 
I wish I could see all these pictures of your Kievs!

Not gonna happen with a thread this old, Vinny. If there are no pictures, or links that are active, it's because they've been deleted somewhere along the line, or the site is no longer active. Try looking at more current stuff.

PF
 
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