Thankyou. My personal experience is that the 1950s J-3's are the best. The trick, as with any 50+year old piece of equipment, is finding one on good condition.
One more, from a 1955 KMZ J-3, wide-open on the Contax II. Focus is on the blade cutting across the center.
"Jupiter Glow".
One more, from a 1955 KMZ J-3, wide-open on the Contax II. Focus is on the blade cutting across the center.
"Jupiter Glow".
Benjamin
Registered Snoozer
I can't quite beleive that I am asking this, but does anyone have any pictures taken with a J8 wide open? I pretty much solely shoot mine at f/8, perhaps f/4 max. and it works pretty well.
Cheers, Benjamin
Cheers, Benjamin
zuikologist
.........................
Gorgeous photo - great light.
Thankyou. My personal experience is that the 1950s J-3's are the best. The trick, as with any 50+year old piece of equipment, is finding one on good condition.
One more, from a 1955 KMZ J-3, wide-open on the Contax II. Focus is on the blade cutting across the center.
"Jupiter Glow".
RichA
Member
Jupter 85mm f2.0 a horrible lens
Jupter 85mm f2.0 a horrible lens
This was an SLR lens that I had recently. I don't mind some spherical aberration wide open, but this was crazy. The images were so inferior to a Nikon 85mm f1.8 it wasn't funny. I would doubt it had 1/2 the resolution of the Nikon.
Jupter 85mm f2.0 a horrible lens
This was an SLR lens that I had recently. I don't mind some spherical aberration wide open, but this was crazy. The images were so inferior to a Nikon 85mm f1.8 it wasn't funny. I would doubt it had 1/2 the resolution of the Nikon.
1955 J-8, wide-open on the Zorki 3M.
A color shot, wide-open, 1955 J-8 on the Canon IVSB.
J-9's can vary widely, as can J-3's and other FSu lenses. The J-8's have been most consistent in my experience.
The J-9 that I have now is "decent". I need to try a mid-50s J-9.
A color shot, wide-open, 1955 J-8 on the Canon IVSB.
J-9's can vary widely, as can J-3's and other FSu lenses. The J-8's have been most consistent in my experience.
The J-9 that I have now is "decent". I need to try a mid-50s J-9.
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Florian1234
it's just hide and seek
Jupiter-8 wide open - f/2, on XP2 400.
sorry for the dust spots.
sorry for the dust spots.jparriott
Member
Brian - Am I crazy to work the lens without a shim?
Brian - Am I crazy to work the lens without a shim?
I have a Jupiter 3 that's pretty terrific wide open. No focus error at all and swirly, wonderful bokeh. Just love the character (although it is prone to lens flare).
My Jupiter 8 is another story. Black barrel - so it's a newer version. My back focus isn't extreme - around an inch - and I've been able to adjust with about 80% accuracy.
Is it worth it to tear the lens apart? I'm happy with the rendering of this lens and don't want to screw it up. I don't even know where to get the shim. Brian, do you still work on Jupiters? Do you know anyone in Los Angeles who does?
Thanks for any help or advice -- Jim
Brian - Am I crazy to work the lens without a shim?
I have a Jupiter 3 that's pretty terrific wide open. No focus error at all and swirly, wonderful bokeh. Just love the character (although it is prone to lens flare).
My Jupiter 8 is another story. Black barrel - so it's a newer version. My back focus isn't extreme - around an inch - and I've been able to adjust with about 80% accuracy.
Is it worth it to tear the lens apart? I'm happy with the rendering of this lens and don't want to screw it up. I don't even know where to get the shim. Brian, do you still work on Jupiters? Do you know anyone in Los Angeles who does?
Thanks for any help or advice -- Jim
paradoxbox
Well-known
brian doesn't post here anymore, i guess he got angry or something and decided to quit
opening jupiters is simple stuff. you just rotate the aperture ring until it opens up (rotate it towards wider aperture while holding the focus ring or non-rotating part of the lens barrel, be careful not to bend the soft aluminum, it's quite easy to bend it)
once the lens is opened up you can usually find a kind of washer sitting between the aperture section and the rest of the lens barrel, but sometimes there's no washer. anyway with a 1" backfocus you probably only need to make a shim or two out of aluminum foil or even paper.
just trace a circle the same size as the aperture barrel then cut it out with an exacto knife, then cut out the center so all you're left with is a thin washer. check your focus both at close and far distances to see if it's accurate (either using a digital rangefinder or using some scotch tape over the film gate and a loupe to examine focus.
one caveat, if you adjust the focus distance by using shims, the aperture ring will not line up correctly anymore - you'll have to re-index it. there is a tutorial you can find here on the forum if you google for it, i think brian sweeney actually wrote that.
opening jupiters is simple stuff. you just rotate the aperture ring until it opens up (rotate it towards wider aperture while holding the focus ring or non-rotating part of the lens barrel, be careful not to bend the soft aluminum, it's quite easy to bend it)
once the lens is opened up you can usually find a kind of washer sitting between the aperture section and the rest of the lens barrel, but sometimes there's no washer. anyway with a 1" backfocus you probably only need to make a shim or two out of aluminum foil or even paper.
just trace a circle the same size as the aperture barrel then cut it out with an exacto knife, then cut out the center so all you're left with is a thin washer. check your focus both at close and far distances to see if it's accurate (either using a digital rangefinder or using some scotch tape over the film gate and a loupe to examine focus.
one caveat, if you adjust the focus distance by using shims, the aperture ring will not line up correctly anymore - you'll have to re-index it. there is a tutorial you can find here on the forum if you google for it, i think brian sweeney actually wrote that.