Leicavit or Rapidwinder

My favourite deal with IXMOO' was multiple years ago (early 90's). It was a swapmeet back east (Boston) and a friend had just given me a bag of Jelly beans. I had picked out all the Liqorice ones that I liked and there was about 2lbs of mixed red/green/yellow left. One of the dealers had been at his table for hours and decided that he wanted some sweets. He saw my baggie and I offered it to him. "Wanna trade" he asked. I said "not really, you can have them anyway". "Oh, why don't you take this box of IXMOO's for it. Cant sell them anyway". OK, I did the trade, though I did not need the IXMOO's (Tri X was $1.75/roll in 1000 roll buys). Turned out that 1/2 of the IXMOO's were loaded with - Tri X!". Old and severely fogged, some exposed (mainly microscope shots of some plantlife". All in all, 40 IXMOO's and 20 loaded - not a bad deal!
 
Tom A said:
I am blushing from all that praise! I have been in the Rapidwinder business since 1987 and the main reason is that my original Leicavit MP's died and no parts or replacements were avaiiable at "user" prices.
Damaso's winder is a very early one and belongs to a batch of black chromed, brass housing winders. They can have issue with fit on some M6's and as it will require a virtual rebuild of every single part - I decided to take my time and send one of my own to him for the time being.
At the moment my workshop is closed - partly due to holidays and partly due to the fact that Vancouver has the "unusual" usual snow coming down and there is no heat in the shop. It will thaw out and then it is back to production.
There are three versions of the Rapidwinder. One is for M4-2/M4P/M6 and MP, the other is for M2's (limited run) and the third one is a screw-mount version.
As for being handmade - the early versions truly were (housing was soldered together - could warp!). The current version is done on a huge computer numerically controlled machine and then I make the drive train and lever assembly by hand and put the whole thing together (and shoot a couple of rolls with it to check it out).
The M6 winder is in continious production, whilst the M2 Rapidwinder is a limited run. I made 300 initially and they sold out and then I decided to make another 100 that would accommodate the Leica re-loadable cassette (the IXMOO) - primarily for my own use and for those of us who still have these. I am getting to the end of this run - about 45 housings/locks/top-plates remain - and I have had to raid my own cameras for supply - so in theory there are 30-32 left for 2009 (the balance are for my own M2's).
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Thanks Tom for the reply. Actually I've checked your website and found there 2 agencies in europe. However, non of them satisfied me. I am wondering if it's possible to directly order from you? If so, it would be nice to me. I hope I could get one in early 2009.
 
Tom's Rapidwinder is a MUCH better and more reliable design than either version Leica M Leicavit, not to mention better made than Leica made M Leicavits. It's like comparing a Rolls to a Yugo. Really. The Leicavit's closing lock has more parts in it than Tom's ENTIRE Rapidwinder. You figure it out.

Stephen
 
I am using a MP on the youTube. Tuulikki insisted that I get in front of a camera for once as she wanted to try out the video clip function. I am not an actor, or have any aspirations to be one. Silent movie mode would have suited me fine.
As for smaller lenses, you can still reach the focussing tab and use the winder at the same time. Withe bigger and heavier lenses, you have to shift the hand for focus. With something like the Nocti or the 75f1,4 at wide open, you focus and then rock back and forth to keep the focussing patch in line and compensate for movement, yours or the subjects.
 
CameraQuest said:
Tom's Rapidwinder is a MUCH better and more reliable design than either version Leica M Leicavit, not to mention better made than Leica made M Leicavits. It's like comparing a Rolls to a Yugo. Really. The Leicavit's closing lock has more parts in it than Tom's ENTIRE Rapidwinder. You figure it out.
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Interesting that you should pick out the closing lock. That is the one function on the Leicavit that works better for me than the Rapidwinder. The one on the Leicavit does feel more secure to me.
 
I have big hands and find it no problem to focus with my thumb and index finger while having the others around the trigger. It just feels right if you ask me!

Tom: thanks again for the help, I had no idea so much work was going to be involved. If 21 wasn't my favorite number I would tell you to keep it. But the one you sent me is working just fine so take your time, right now I am happy as a clam!
 
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may i ask what the version is it and how is it compared to the most current version?
 
I've had a couple of Rapidwinders and they are very good, the only thing that annoys me is when I had a M6 black chrome I had a black paint one and now I have a black paint MP I have a black chrome winder! one day I will get a matching one.
 
Am I right in thinking that with my M4 (not a -P or -2 and owned from new in 1967), I am out in the cold as far as winders go? Until recently, a winder is not something I have felt any need for but the base joint on my right thumb is near seized and using the standard lever wind is becoming increasingly difficult and uncomfortable.

Wilson
 
I just got a second Rapidwinder II to build out a second M-body.

Built very robustly and a camera balances nicely with the added weight, especially with bigger lenses. Also the trigger lever adds a spread grip to steady the camera.

I use mine with a Rapidgrips which enables one handed shooting.

Cal
 
I've never owned a Rapidwinder (not on purpose, I just haven't had the chance to get my hands on one). I have owned 3 Leicavits (2 of the newer version and one original Leicavit-MP). The Vit's all have performed great, only had one problem and that was with the drive belt on a used Leicavit. I noticed that when I would advance the film, one full stroke of the trigger would not fully advance the camera - I'd have to follow that full stroke with another short stroke. Then one day the trigger went 'free' - it was no longer connected to the drive belt. I got it home and took it apart (after getting a schematic from Leica, NJ) and found the problem. The drive belt is held in place on one end by a two-screw clamp. The belt has teeth and it had slipped out of the clamp (first one tooth, hence the incomplete advance symptom) - then it pulled out all together. I attributed this to heavy handed use (by the previous owner) who would probably try to advance thru the very last frame (putting alot of stress on the drive belt once the film stops moving).

So - sometime I'd love to try a Rapidwinder, but I am afraid that since I am used to the trigger location and size of the Leicavit, it might be an odd-fit for me.
 
wilsonlaidlaw said:
Am I right in thinking that with my M4 (not a -P or -2 and owned from new in 1967), I am out in the cold as far as winders go? Until recently, a winder is not something I have felt any need for but the base joint on my right thumb is near seized and using the standard lever wind is becoming increasingly difficult and uncomfortable.

Wilson
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Wilson, M4's and M3's can be converted to take the Rapidwinder (or the Leicavit M). DAG (Don Goldberg) can do the conversion. The version you want for that is a M4P/M6 version. The intermediate drive from a M4P/M6 is installed.
I recommend that you send both camera and winder to the "converter" as it can then be matched to the body.
For converting a M3 you will need a slightly different "post" where the plastic roller is located on the M4 base. It is just a bit shorter and has a bit of a taper to it.
 
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