I "need" a new fixed lens compact RF.

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Forest_rain

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Looking for a compact budget fixed lens rangefinder to complement my SLR. Interchangeable seems like it would be too expensive. Just a "carry everywhere" type camera.

Looking for manual exposure possibilities with metering.

Something like an Olympus 35 RC might not fit the bill. From what I understand the meter only really works in "auto" mode and it's clumsy in manual.

I'm thinking about a Petri 7s. It seems like it has a kind of "shutter priority" exposure system which allows you to calibrate the settings to your liking a little bit more easily.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I'd like to avoid cameras older than the '70s or so. I haven't had good luck with shutter operation for older cameras and want something that will "probably work" with minimal fiddling, I'm getting tired of trying to repair my own stuff.
 
Beemermark said:
Olympus SP
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It has metering in manual mode, but it's uncoupled:
https://www.cameraquest.com/olysp.htm

Quoting Stephen's article:
It's great the SP offers metering on manual exposure, but unfortunately it is not terribly convenient. Taken off AE, the metering system is uncoupled - much like the system used on the Olympus Pen FT. The photog has to take a meter reading and remember the EV setting in the viewfinder, then adjust the f/stops and shutter speeds until the desired EV range appears on the lens barrel. This system does indeed work, and it is indeed better than no meter at all - but it's slow by the techno weenie standards of today.
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Sounds like the petri 7s is a good manual mode metering model, and affordable. Anyone own this one and want to chime in on how the metering works?


Sounds like it has a needle match type metering and might be exactly what I'm looking for. I hope I'm not mistaking how it works, I'm pretty close to buying one.
 
I have a Petri 7s, I've had maybe ten years. It is from the early 60s so it is much better constructed than the late 60s or early 70s subcompacts: i.e. you can't push your fingernail through the cheesy aluminium body parts. The lens it right there with any of the Olympus or Konica later cameras (I've had 3 Konica(s) and 3 Olympus cameras. Don't get me wrong they made good cameras but not too sturdy).

By the way, the Olympus 35RC is not auto only BUT you do have shutter priority. Mine is still working but I'm nervous about every roll I put trough it.

Here are a few from the Petri 7 (which I had in 1963) and the 7s which I have now:

7s Tmax400(TMY-2) HC-110h Rodinal by John Carter, on Flickr

and I like this one because it is so easy to use with fill or regular flash:

Petri 7S by John Carter, on Flickr

Petri 7:

1963 by John Carter, on Flickr
 
The metering on the Petri 7s is set the shutter and aperture to the needle match meter. BUT it has two meter read outs; the viewfinder AND on top of the camera. I use the camera top one the most.

Cocking the shutter gives a kick and sounds like loading my old Remington .22 rifle, but the shutter release is softly quiet.
 
I've done some searching and it seems that some people think that the 7s is not the best. The lens may be soft wide open. Any other suggestions?
 
I wouldn't be so quick to discount shutter-priority automation.

I regard shutter-priority and aperture-priority automation as "manual exposure with a shortcut." Provided you have some form of Auto-Exposure Lock (AEL), you have the same control as manual.

In manual exposure, you may start by setting the shutter speed. Then you turn the aperture ring until the metering needle is centered. With shutter-priority automation, you do the same thing, except that the camera automatically sets that same aperture.

In manual exposure, I often meter off a different part of the frame, then recompose and shoot. If you have AEL with your shutter-priority automation, you accomplish the exact same thing.

Most of the compact, fixed-lens RFs of the 1970s have shutter-priority automation with unmetered manual. They have a "trap-needle" form of automation, so that when you press the shutter button halfway down, it "traps the needle" and locks the exposure. The aperture chosen by the camera is shown in the finder.

I have used a number of such compact RFs in the past for travel and while living abroad, and they were perfect for such use. With shutter-priority auto and trap-needle AEL, I had exactly the same control as I would have with metered manual. If you want a setting outside of anything you can meter in the scene (which I never have, personally), then you take the aperture ring off "A" and select the aperture manually, based on what the meter showed you in auto-mode.

I found these cameras quick to use and I always got sharp, properly exposed slides.

- Murray
 
I might also point out that most lenses aren't as sharp wide-open as they are when closed down a couple of stops. Some lenses are designed specifically for maximum performance at maximum aperture, but these are specialized - and usually expensive - lenses.


- Murray
 
Forest_rain said:
Looks like the lens isn't too sharp from the reviews I've read...maybe there's a reason why there's a lot of these cameras out there for cheap. Maybe I'll stick to my SLR until I find something with a sharper lens.
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You're welcome and I guess I'll just forget you asked. :confused:
 
„Budget“ and „RF“ don‘t seem words that go together well nowadays. Patience is the key. The Konica Auto S2 has a very good rf and is corrected for parallax error. The Hexanon is superb.
 
Forest_rain said:
Looks like the lens isn't too sharp from the reviews I've read...maybe there's a reason why there's a lot of these cameras out there for cheap. Maybe I'll stick to my SLR until I find something with a sharper lens.
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FWIW, the very good ones have been spotted and are now dear; the other snag to finding one cheap is that people neglect them and so you find cheap ones with corroded battery terminals (not always obvious) and dead meter cells. Light is what destroys meter cells; find one that's been looked after with the camera kept in the dark with the lens cap on and you'll be laughing.

The other snag is that mercury batteries are no longer available and so you might have to use either expensive adapters or expensive Wein cells.

Regards, David

PS The Chinese make a lot of novelties that are solar powered and I often wonder why they don't make replacement meter cells: more profitable and a huge demand...
 
Forest_rain said:
Looking for a compact budget fixed lens rangefinder to complement my SLR.
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Here is what I use.

On the left, the Canon QL17 Giii 35mm rangefinder with fixed 40mm lens. On the right, the Minolta Hi-Matic 9 35mm rangefinder with fixed 45mm lens.

Both are great for street shooting because they are small, quiet, unobtrusive, inexpensive, and capable of producing high-quality images.

Neither needs batteries for operation. Batteries are only needed for the built-in light meter.


Rangefinders by Narsuitus, on Flickr
 
David Hughes said:
PS The Chinese make a lot of novelties that are solar powered and I often wonder why they don't make replacement meter cells: more profitable and a huge demand...
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I took the little solar panel out of a cheap calculator, one of those $5 drug store ones. Wired it into a Yashicamat LM. Had to adjust some resistors to get the response level and 'curve' somewhat accurate, but it worked. I mean, close enough for B&W outdoors, which is about what any 50 year old selenium is limited to these days anyway.

(compared to cheap toss-offs at Walmart, I don't think that the old film camera selenium cell replacement market is quite that big, eh?)
 
Would you consider a camera without a light meter? A Retina II or IIa, or Agfa Karat / Ansco Karomat, with a Xenon lens seriously can't be beat. This is a lens that can easily compete with any 50mm lens from any other manufacturer of the time, and they are seriously very good today. One of those folders, the early Retina or the Karat, is very small, quick to deploy and focus, and pack a stunning lens.
Phil Forrest
 
Forest_rain said:
I've done some searching and it seems that some people think that the 7s is not the best. The lens may be soft wide open. Any other suggestions?
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Mine is not, it is at 2.8 as good as the Olympus 35rc and the Konica C3 both of these cameras have excellent wide open lenses: especially the C3 (but it is 100% auto which I don't like except on vacation).

This wasn't wide open but at f4.0:

Danville, CA Library by John Carter, on Flickr
 
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