Peter_S
Peter_S
Contax T - if that is within the budget. No manual metering, though.
Archlich
Well-known
Must caution from my personal experience though: it's a very well built camera, the dual dial layout is lovely. I managed to fetch a black one years ago. However focusing with it turned out to be painful (for me) since:
1. you have to keep turning the wheel for a while, anticipating a faint detent, to set the focus to infinity and ready the camera for action. No lock, no visible confirmation. If you don't pay attention you'd get past infinity and maybe all the way to the minimum distance.
2. there is no distance scale on the barrel (where it should be is the ISO value for the meter. Ouch). Only in the finder. You have to keep the camera at eye level, with your finger next to your eye poking that wheel, to get a clue of where it's going to focus at. No set at waist level and go like you'd do with almost any other manual focus camera...
3. No depth of field scale whatsoever. This makes hyperfocus difficult. And this being a scale focus camera...why had they omitted such a critical feature is beyond me.
A good camera to toy with. The shutter makes a very satisfying click. Brass beneath paint is solid and beautiful. But that's about it, to me at least.
Forest_rain
Well-known
Phil, I'm starting to think that you might be right about buying something quality. I've used about a quart of mineral spirits and the shutter of my Vitomatic II is still sticking. I could buy some sewing machine oil and try to oil the sheaves and see if that fixes things but I'm thinking about cutting my losses and just saving up for a Canon 7.
I know this model doesn't have an accessory shoe, but would it be reliable if I sent it out for a CLA? I'm talking more reliable hopefully than an FSU rangefinder or a fixed lens rangefinder, or anything with a leaf shutter.
I'd also be able to use a 135mm lens, my favorite focal length.
There's something about the sleek, sexy look of these old rangefinders that I really like as well. But in my experience, the older the camera, the more likely it is to have issues. I've had zero issues with Japanese cameras but none from 1961 like this model.
dourbalistar
Buy more film
There is a Vivitar 35ES in the ad that I linked, still available as far as I can tell. Details from the ad listing:
oftheherd
Mentor
As bscarr and Bingley have said, the Oly XA is a nice camera. Small and good lens. Automatic RF. Some have a hard to see or non-seeable RF patch, but less important with the 35mm lens.
I used to really like the Canonet mentioned above, but I prefer the XA now.
Remember that all the cameras from that era are old so it is something of a crap shoot getting a good usable one.
Wouter2
Established
Yashica T3. The 2.8/35mm is unbeatable.
David Hughes
David Hughes
There's a lot to be said for the Olympus XA which is a proper rangefinder, albeit an aperture priority one. At least the batteries are easy to find, even in supermarkets and it has that nice Zuiko lens. And you get that useful +1½ EV switch. And you can leave the flash at home if you don't like flash or extra weight.
Better still, there are lots about and more than a few technicians who can repair and restore them. With the sliding lens cover it's unlikely that the meter cell will have faded away.
It's one of the few cameras I've ever bought new and I still have one.
FWIW, I've had and liked/loved most of the other Olympus RF's but that was a long time ago when mercury batteries were normal; I don't know what the situation is nowadays apart from the PX 625, PX640 and PX 675 that can be replaced by Wein cells and/or the MR adapters. MR adapters add a another layer of mystery to things as not all of them have the diode etc and look OK but are just shells. And two are needed for some like the Olympus 35ED.
Mercury batteries are also needed for the Leica CL, the Konica C35 and the Leica MR meter. Planning a way of collecting without spending (and often wasting due to the shortish shelf life) more on batteries than you do on the cameras can be difficult...
If that doesn't worry you then the Mamiya EE135 with it's dedicated flash should go on the list but like the C35 it is a program only RF. You might also find a C35 with a very loose lens, this makes them dirt cheap and they are easily and cheaply repaired but the cells have to be double checked.
Regards, David
PS Looking through the VF of the C35, the EE135 and the Yashica 35-ME you may wonder, as I often have, if the same factory made them all.
Better still, there are lots about and more than a few technicians who can repair and restore them. With the sliding lens cover it's unlikely that the meter cell will have faded away.
It's one of the few cameras I've ever bought new and I still have one.
FWIW, I've had and liked/loved most of the other Olympus RF's but that was a long time ago when mercury batteries were normal; I don't know what the situation is nowadays apart from the PX 625, PX640 and PX 675 that can be replaced by Wein cells and/or the MR adapters. MR adapters add a another layer of mystery to things as not all of them have the diode etc and look OK but are just shells. And two are needed for some like the Olympus 35ED.
Mercury batteries are also needed for the Leica CL, the Konica C35 and the Leica MR meter. Planning a way of collecting without spending (and often wasting due to the shortish shelf life) more on batteries than you do on the cameras can be difficult...
If that doesn't worry you then the Mamiya EE135 with it's dedicated flash should go on the list but like the C35 it is a program only RF. You might also find a C35 with a very loose lens, this makes them dirt cheap and they are easily and cheaply repaired but the cells have to be double checked.
Regards, David
PS Looking through the VF of the C35, the EE135 and the Yashica 35-ME you may wonder, as I often have, if the same factory made them all.
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eli griggs
Well-known
The QL17 GIII, is perfect and has super quiet mechanical shutter, with a good meter, especially when converted for silver cell batteries, with the correct diode.
49 mm filters, a meter that allows for auto exposure, both a hot shoe and of port, and most importantly, the excellent f1.7 lens.
The meter 'eye' is under what ever filter you decide to use, so readings are good, if you decide not to use an external meter or sunny 16 chart.
Japanese built cameras are more expensive in many cases, but the Taiwan camera is every bit as good a camera you could want, and you'll likely never notice any difference, I have both builds and use them as interchangeable picture makers.
I'll also mention I have the Minolta 9, as well, with another great f1.7 lens and it's a pleasure to use, though larger and heavier than the little Canon QL17s.
Keep in mind the Minolta 9 is an upgrade of the Minolta 7s, which cost more because of demand from folks that don't realize this fact and want a popular camera.
IMO.
49 mm filters, a meter that allows for auto exposure, both a hot shoe and of port, and most importantly, the excellent f1.7 lens.
The meter 'eye' is under what ever filter you decide to use, so readings are good, if you decide not to use an external meter or sunny 16 chart.
Japanese built cameras are more expensive in many cases, but the Taiwan camera is every bit as good a camera you could want, and you'll likely never notice any difference, I have both builds and use them as interchangeable picture makers.
I'll also mention I have the Minolta 9, as well, with another great f1.7 lens and it's a pleasure to use, though larger and heavier than the little Canon QL17s.
Keep in mind the Minolta 9 is an upgrade of the Minolta 7s, which cost more because of demand from folks that don't realize this fact and want a popular camera.
IMO.
CMur12
Well-known
I, too, like the Canonet QL17 GIII and have been very happy with mine.
Note, however, that it takes 48mm filters, which are harder to find that the more common 49mm.
- Murray
Note, however, that it takes 48mm filters, which are harder to find that the more common 49mm.
- Murray
moggi1964
Established
Not sure where the OP lives but I'll add another RF with a F/1.7 lens to the list but one that seems most often available in the UK:
Yashica Minister 700
It is the Minister D with a faster lens. My recent purchase is about to go for a CLA so I don't have any images I can share from it but those I have seen online suggest a very nice lens. The camera itself is slightly larger than the QL17 GIII (though smaller than the Minolta HiM9) and not quite so well specced but certainly cheaper to buy given the GIII's popularity.
Shafovaloff1
Well-known
Olympus 35 LC...Zuiko "G" (7 elements?) 42mm f1.7 RF lens, bright finder, self timer fully manual and classic looks. Also, might look at Fuji - Half, no battery, automatic and aperture priority to 1/300th of a second, settings in finder and field focus, (get a ruler if you like) self timer, and 72 frames on a 36 exposure roll. One 72 frame "story" on a Fuji 200 36 exp roll, put on a contact sheet. 
Shafovaloff1
Well-known
I know you want a RF camera. But I am an old man with no wife to listen to me. While most active practicing law several years back I used an Olympus Infinity auto focus auto exposure, auto wind and rewind, built in flash , pocketable, auto lens cover, camera. After reading the operators manual I used it for just about everything from copying my grandfathers immigration papers to doing traffic accident investigations, panoramic stitching of shots, damage pictures from under the car of bumper dampers, to family pictures. When I got rid of it on Ehay immediately I regretted the dump...and wanted another to replace it and found that no one sold anything that worked on that site like it and the upgrade was a poorly designed idea, brought to market too soon and expensive. If you can find one working Olympus Infinity (it has a built in flash) until you are satisfied about a RF IMHOP you will make no mistake. When you put a 36 exposure roll of Fuji in it you will have 36 frames of nicely exposed and sharp auto focus pictures after the processing. [Beware the upgrade model...where you will be lucky to get a picture of anything you intended due to the delay of the shutter and probably wind up tossing it in the trash!]
Darthfeeble
But you can call me Steve
Voigtlander Vito B. The shutter release is a bit awkward but the camera is sharp and compact.
Andrea Taurisano
il cimento
I wish the glorious Ricoh GR1, Nikon 35Ti / 28Ti, Contax T2 / T3, etc. were still repairable by at least a few technicians in each continent.. or went for prices that reflect their low reliability. But the prices they go for nowadays, the fact that their days are counted and that any failure can turn them into paperweight, made me stop using these cameras 2 - 3 years ago. Now, when I need a motorized compact, I choose one of the few that at least are still decently priced (Olympus Mju) or even rather cheap (Konica Big Mini) yet delivering the same quality as the premium compact cameras, if one can live without manual mode.
MinoltaAndy
Newbie
Hi everyone.
My favourite RF's are the following.
I'm a bit of an auto exposure fan and love using my Olympus 35DC or Minolta HiMatic E.
Both have fabulous lenses and for me the exposure has been spot on. Lets me concentrate on the composition.
Also don't overlook the Konica C35 or the Ricoh 500. The Ricoh being able to meter in both auto and manual settings.
Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk
My favourite RF's are the following.
I'm a bit of an auto exposure fan and love using my Olympus 35DC or Minolta HiMatic E.
Both have fabulous lenses and for me the exposure has been spot on. Lets me concentrate on the composition.
Also don't overlook the Konica C35 or the Ricoh 500. The Ricoh being able to meter in both auto and manual settings.
Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk
Jeremy Z
Well-known
A lot of folks are recommending good cameras, but which aren't compact. For example, a Konica Auto S2 or Minolta Hi-Matic 9 are not compact.
I guess it depends on what "too expensive" is. You can get a nice Canon in thread mount for $250 and lenses range from great Canon lenses (middle of the road) to great-but-collectible and expensive Leitz lenses to cheap soviet optics that can be surprisingly good for under $50. No metering though, which probably rules those out. The metered Canons aren't compact any more.
I have a 35 RC; it's wonderful. As the other poster said, manual metering is accomplished by using the auto mode, taking note of the camera's recommendation, then switching to Manual and setting your exposure. This is not a super-efficient process, but remember that since you have shutter priority automation, you'd only need to use that method in tricky lighting situations. The lens is great, the build quality is great.
I'm betting the reason the other member who says he's afraid each time he uses it. There are a couple areas that might lead to that feeling. The focus ring around the lens is a hard, thin plastic. The focusing does feel cheap. Just don't bang on it and it's fine. It has a lot lighter effort for the film advance lever than any other camera I've used, because it is not turning "the wrong way" like most SLRs do.
Good luck finding one in working shape. Quality was said to be lower than the big Japanese brands.
This is interesting. The 60s cameras were more solidly-built than 70s cameras, it is just a matter of finding one that has been serviced or at least used regularly for the past 20 years. On the other hand, fixed lens rangefinders in the 60s were not compact, so that's a moot point.
Olympus 35 SP is a great camera, but not really compact. It's a LOT bigger than a 35RC, for example. Canon QL17 and QL17 III are bigger than Olympus 35 RC and Rollei 35, but smaller than typical 60s FLRFs like Auto S2s and the first Hi-Matics.
Other contenders, look in the Minolta Hi-Matic series. They got smaller over the years. Some were only Program, but some had automation. The Minolta ROKKOR lenses are great. Yes, they are not as sharp wide open, but when we're shooting wide open, we don't always want that. (ex portraits are more flattering when they're not super-sharp)
Lastly, don't rule out scale-focused cameras! A Rollei 35 is a fantastic little camera, and scale focusing isn't as hard as you think, most of the time. I find myself often set to f/8 or f/11 and focus set to hyperfocal, shutter speed between 1/60 and 1/500. The Rollei 35, 35 T, 35 B and 35 S all meter at waist level and are focused at waist level, so when it is brought up to the eye, it is just framing and clicking the shutter. It's a really good street photography camera, when used in this way.
Deardorff38
Mentor
Well said Andrea. The most telling recently, is Larry Cloetta's purchase of a Nikon F2 Titanium for less than the price of a Contax T series....
agentlossing
Well-known
That is a compelling feature of the Rollei 35; one of the things I like most about my Bessa-T is the metering, exposure controls and focus all being available at a glance downwards, allowing me to be lightning fast about raising the camera to my eye. I now have a Petri Color 35, which is the opposite: scale focus and meter are both only in the viewfinder. Not that the Color 35 is exactly a street camera, especially with the 1/250 max shutter speed.
MarkWalberg
Established
My choice for this is Konica III, IIIA, or IIIM. Really great cameras.
Darthfeeble
But you can call me Steve
I'd second the Canonet models, I have a 2.8 but the 1.7 is the desirable one. 2.8 are pretty affordable.