This Industar-50 is a Tessar formula 50/3.5 in a brass mount with "very shiny Chrome". Performance compares well with the post-war 50/3.5 coated Elmar. The I-50 is the third formulation of the 50/3.5 Tessar in the Industar series, it improves on the optics of the Industar-22 and Industar-10. The I-50 and I-22 both have similar aperture rings, both are easier to use than the Elmar 50/3.5 and Industar-10.
This lens is easy to work on, remove the stop screw to separate the helical. For this job, I use Lighter Fluid, Alcohol, Q-Tips, paper towels, and a fine-point screwdriver to get the old grease out. I use a heavy lubricant, you can fine similar heavy grease in the plumbing department of a hardware store.
This lens did not need the shim changed to focus properly on my M9. The very slight back-focus was well covered by the DOF. I've worked on others that required the shim to be changed, made thicker by ~0.2mm. To remove the optical module you need to remove the light baffle from the rear. It needs to be pried out, this one was stubborn. Then remove the rear retaining ring. Last step is to remove the set screw from the side of the lens that prevents the module from rotating as you remove the ring.
After taking out the rear baffle and retaining ring, remove the set screw that keeps the barrel from rotating in the mount.
This lens is easy to work on, remove the stop screw to separate the helical. For this job, I use Lighter Fluid, Alcohol, Q-Tips, paper towels, and a fine-point screwdriver to get the old grease out. I use a heavy lubricant, you can fine similar heavy grease in the plumbing department of a hardware store.
This lens did not need the shim changed to focus properly on my M9. The very slight back-focus was well covered by the DOF. I've worked on others that required the shim to be changed, made thicker by ~0.2mm. To remove the optical module you need to remove the light baffle from the rear. It needs to be pried out, this one was stubborn. Then remove the rear retaining ring. Last step is to remove the set screw from the side of the lens that prevents the module from rotating as you remove the ring.
After taking out the rear baffle and retaining ring, remove the set screw that keeps the barrel from rotating in the mount.
Wide-Open on the M9:
gb hill
Mentor
Nice example you have Brian. How similar in construction is this lens to an elmar? I have an elmar that in cold weather seems to get stiff.
Almost identical construction to the Elmar. The helical is easy to get to, same screw holds it in place. If it gets stiff in the cold, use a regular white lithium grease. I like the heavy vacuum pump grease, and heavier plumbers grease for these single helical lenses.
Most of the "Elmar Look-alikes" are similar to this. I just Cleaned and Lubed a 1940s Canon 50/3.5 Serenar. I've also done the collapsible 5cm F3.5 Nikkor in LTM, and my original Elmars.
Most of the "Elmar Look-alikes" are similar to this. I just Cleaned and Lubed a 1940s Canon 50/3.5 Serenar. I've also done the collapsible 5cm F3.5 Nikkor in LTM, and my original Elmars.
JeffS7444
Well-known
How do you clean up excess vacuum grease? I once had to deal with that stuff, and as I recall, none of the organic solvents I tried seemed to have much effect.
Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
I'm not going to say it out loud, but I have used Phil Wood Tenacious grease on some cheaper Industars. Wait... did I say that out loud?
Dante
Dante
The Vacuum Pump Grease- at least this brand wipes off readily. I've used it for 20 years now. I also use it with lenses with too much play in the focus. I have a very worn wartime LTM Sonnar that it helped greatly.
Dante- you typed it.
Here is a link,
https://avt.bike/products/phil-wood-waterproof-grease-for-ball-and-roller-bearings-650ml-jar
I'll have to try it. At the rate I'm using up the Vacuum Pump grease on lenses, it might be a lifetime buy. You use a small bit, like what fits on the tip of a screwdriver.
Dante- you typed it.
Here is a link,
https://avt.bike/products/phil-wood-waterproof-grease-for-ball-and-roller-bearings-650ml-jar
I'll have to try it. At the rate I'm using up the Vacuum Pump grease on lenses, it might be a lifetime buy. You use a small bit, like what fits on the tip of a screwdriver.
I checked on the Dow Lubricant-
Available from Lab supply seller. The Phil Wood Lubricant is back-ordered.
These days- I use the Vacuum Grease mostly to dampen movement of the aperture ring on the Sonnars and J-3's.
Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease 1 oz | eBay
It is also resistant to most aqueous solutions of inorganic salts and to dilute acids and alkalies. The suitability of Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease should always be tested before the material is adopted for regular use.
www.ebay.com
Available from Lab supply seller. The Phil Wood Lubricant is back-ordered.
These days- I use the Vacuum Grease mostly to dampen movement of the aperture ring on the Sonnars and J-3's.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
FIY.
I-50 was recalculated to be better on color film.
If you want better bw - I-22.
If you want collapsible into M with caution - I-10 (the only one which is close to Elmar in build and tube lenght).
As usual, they have to be checked for collimation on M mounts.
I-22 collimated for M.
I-50 was recalculated to be better on color film.
If you want better bw - I-22.
If you want collapsible into M with caution - I-10 (the only one which is close to Elmar in build and tube lenght).
As usual, they have to be checked for collimation on M mounts.
I-22 collimated for M.