Is it ok to re-wash film years later?

Rayt

Rayt

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I didn’t catch it under the loupe but when I scanned it years later it was obvious I got sloppy at rinsing off the negative. On the left you can see streaks as well as spots. Is it possible to re-wash it after several years? Since it’s one of my favorite shots something impossible to reshoot I would like to clean it up.

20200819-ray-swc-001 by Ray T, on Flickr
 
Yes, absolutely, I do it all the time. One thing, though, don’t be surprised if washing does not remove the junk. I am always amazed about how stubbornly adherent what dries on film can be.

Marty
 
Freakscene said:
Yes, absolutely, I do it all the time. One thing, though, don’t be surprised if washing does not remove the junk. I am always amazed about how stubbornly adherent what dries on film can be.

Marty
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Thanks. So how would one go about it? I figure I should agitate it in the tank and also soak it for an hour or so and then rinse with distilled water no Photoflo?
 
You might want to look into getting some PEC 12 film cleaner, to be used with PEC 12 non-scratch wipes/pads. Works for me.
 
Rayt said:
Thanks. So how would one go about it? I figure I should agitate it in the tank and also soak it for an hour or so and then rinse with distilled water no Photoflo?
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I suggest washing with vigorous agitation for as long as you are willing to try (don't go over 1-2 hours, emulsions get soft after that) and rinsing in filtered distilled water and fresh Photo-flo at a normal concentration that works for you.

I never found any better approach than cleaning the negative as best I can (and beware, PEC 12 and PEC Pads _can_ scratch film, whatever the manufacturer says) and then spotting/retouching the print. Retouching is no doubt a largely lost art, given the advent of the clone and heal tools.

Also, I am not saying your negative won't improve, I am just saying don't be surprised if it proves impossible to get it perfectly clean.

Marty
 
Trask said:
You might want to look into getting some PEC 12 film cleaner, to be used with PEC 12 non-scratch wipes/pads. Works for me.
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PEC 12 is miraculous. Well, almost. I've used a few gallons of the stuff since it first came on the market in Australia. Works like a charm. The secrets are (1) to use the PEC pads and (2) resist the temptation to rub too briskly or hard.

For really badly grunge negatives, you could try isopropyl alcohol as a last resort. Not rubbing alcohol!! I've used isopropyl on B&W negatives only, not color, so I cannot say for sure what the stuff will do to color emulsions.
 
DownUnder said:
PEC 12 is miraculous. Well, almost. I've used a few gallons of the stuff since it first came on the market in Australia. Works like a charm. The secrets are (1) to use the PEC pads and (2) resist the temptation to rub too briskly or hard.

For really badly grunge negatives, you could try isopropyl alcohol as a last resort. Not rubbing alcohol!! I've used isopropyl on B&W negatives only, not color, so I cannot say for sure what the stuff will do to color emulsions.
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Just so I don’t completely screw up, under no circumstances should I rub the emulsion side, right?
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I recall reading somewhere the recommendation of a weak sodium carbonate solution for the initial wash (something like a desert spoon per litre) followed by thorough wash in clean water. I think the idea is that the carbonate helps neutralise acidic contaminants and provide better penetration of the emulsion. I would only rub the emulsion as a very last resort. A little Photoflo in the final rinse, too.
 
I've rewashed film many times, usually to help relax an overly curled strip due to a dessicated emulsion gelatin. Ive not found that it does much to release and eliminate dust/dirt specks, unfortunately, and rewashed short strips are a pain to dry and keep flat; whole rolls are easier. I only do this sort of thing with old negatives that are irreplaceable.

Personally, i no longer consider film as my archive originals. My scans of film originals are now the archive originals and the image processing mechanisms to remove dust, dirt, and scratches are far more efficient and effective. If for some reason i want to make a wet lab print of an archive original nowadays, I first ink-jet print a cleaned negative image to the required size on transparency medium, and then contact print that. This solution works very well for me, but might not be satisfying for others.

G
 
Some stuff is "on" the negative. Other stuff got embedded in the gelatin emulsion when it was soft. Re-washing can remove the first, but probably won't on the second.
 
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