need help with deciding on a Widelux...

Nyc Dito

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Hello, i am new here on RFF. i must say, i really enjoy going through all the pages on this forum. i had no idea there was this much info!

i am currently looking into buying a widelux and i see that you guys have more knowledge than anything ive come across.

i understand that models F6 through F8 are all basically the same from what i've read, but is there something i am missing from one over the other? Can i easily buy a clean F6 and expect the same as if it were a F8? or vice versa?

i have also noticed that the prices vary from $500-$1400 (KEH had a F8 recently with the filter set), with no regard to model being sold.

So, basically my question is as follows...can i purchase a F6 or F7 (with all the same shutter speeds), and expect the same results with whichever model? Also, is there any definitive place for Widelux, or am i restricted to ebay and craigslist?

I thank you in advance for any suggestions...
 
I certainly don't claim to be an expert, but possibly can jump start some discussion.

I've owned 2 F7 models.

My internet acquired information includes a general theory that, the F7 and F8 models are the most sound mechanically, and possibly optically.

Personal experience has been that when a Widelux wears out, often it exhibits first as a loss of slow shutter speed functioning. This happened to my first F7. I couldn't find anyone to repair it, so bought a second F7.

I'm not certain, but the later models may also have an upgraded lens.

I have never regretted buying 2 Widelux cameras. They are a blast to use and I use them primarily for group action shots, generally outdoors.


Texsport
 
I had an F7 for several years and when it worked it was great but the one I bought, used, had banding issues at times. I guess I had it in the shop two or three times and each time it came back it worked fine for a few months and then went out again. I didn't abuse the camera and flowed instructions to the letter. They are delicate and some cameras have issues. When I bought it it worked fine so I'm guessing it wasn't abused before I bought it.

I also had an old all metal soviet made Horizon that was crude but worked every time and never failed. I'd say optically it was just as good as the Widelux. I was looking on eBay recently and there's a guy that sells rebuilding services on there for these old Horizons.

I wound up selling both cameras and bought a new Horizon. The model is the top of the line Lomo version and has shutter speeds down to 1/2 second and up to 1/500. I've had it for several years and have had only one problem. It fell off a shelf in my safe and took a blow to the top. The shutter / slit quit working for a while but for some reason it's working properly now. Something must have gotten stuck but in any case it's fine now. The one thing I found is there's no service on these from Lomo. If it breaks within 2 years the replace it and after 2 years you throw it in the trash. Bad news about service but they're cheap compared to a Widelux, around $300, so they're disposable. I'd say if you don't drop it there should be no problems for many years.

Optically the new Horizon is very good and mechanically I've had better results than with the Widelux. I've never had banding and it works find in cold weather.

If you want a very cool panoramic camera and can work from a tripod and can spring a bit more money the Roundshot 35 is fantastic. I bought one for some annual reports work and for shooting for some golf courses and it's a true Swiss marvel. The optics are the best and you can shoot up to 360 degrees. There never any banding and it's sharp edge to edge. Heitz is the manufacturer and they're still in business but make digital panos now but they still service the film versions.
 
I've had an F7 and never had issues with it. Like many cameras, you get good ones and you get not so much.
With most Widelux cameras, it's the banding (alternating bands of lighter and darker exposure, caused by uneven speed of lens rotation) that is the first sign and most common type of trouble.

Jeff Bridges (yes, that one, the Dude) has a website with some great tips on Widelux maintenance. I "exercised" my lens a lot, when I had it. It can help avoid problems.

Optically, I was very impressed by the Widelux camera. I made 20 inch wide prints from my negs, and they held up very well.

I'd recommend this camera, as long as you are aware of its potential issues.
 
Here's a post from walkerskyranch on flickr about the gearing differences on Wideluxes.

I spoke with the Guru of widelux repairs , Bob Watkins at
www.precisioncameraworks.com
He says

F8's aren't immune to banding. When it occurs, it's just not as severe, and at a higher frequency due to the greater number, and smaller size of the gear teeth. There were 3 progressions of Widelux gearing: F5 and F6 cameras had larger, straight cut gear teeth, and are the most prone to banding. F7's utilized the same size gear teeth but were helical-cut and thus smoother running. The gear teeth in the F8 are smaller, finer, helical-cut teeth, but need the same maintenance or they will definitely band too. Many of the F8 cameras came with a main turret gear that was made of plastic, and will strip if the camera isn't well cared for and maintained.

I, too, spoke to Bob a couple of years ago. He indicated he was out of F8 gears, but recommended F7 gears as almost as good.

Good luck.

Giorgio
 
you can easily find Horizon 202 for about 300$ in great condition and its a reliable user-friendly camera, but if you lust for a Widelux get the newest one.
 
I have a Widelux F7, Noblex 150, XPan, and Linhof 617, but the Widelux is by far the most fun, and other than the XPan, the simplest to use.


Texsport
 
I have an F7, so far works OK, I changed the seals and gave it a CLA and it just works. The biggest fun with this camera is that you are never sure what is going to turn out on the photo. If you find an F8 go for it, as it should also have better coatings - on F7 you do get flare at times when shooting into light sources, and it is difficult to avoid it, as it sweeps almost 140°. The camera is also sexy, built like a brick, Nikon F style.


W20110510 by mfogiel, on Flickr
 
thanks to ALL for your suggestions and comments.

I picked up a CLEAN F6, and once i receive it i will run a roll through it. Most likely i will be sending it to Precision Camera Works for a CLA and inspection by Bob.

Thanks again and i cant wait to post some images =)
 
Good choice of camera. I have an F7 and an F8 and have read that the last cameras Panon made were suposedly the best. There's a couple of good sites to peruse on the web and be sure to check out Jefff Bridges' site ... his work with the Widelux is well worth a look.

Be sure to be aware that when using the camera it's very easy to photograph your fingers if you hold it the wrong way! :D

I love the sound the Widelux makes when you release the shutter ..... bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt. :p
 
Good choice of camera. I have an F7 and an F8 and have read that the last cameras Panon made were suposedly the best. There's a couple of good sites to peruse on the web and be sure to check out Jefff Bridges' site ... his work with the Widelux is well worth a look.

Be sure to be aware that when using the camera it's very easy to photograph your fingers if you hold it the wrong way! :D

I love the sound the Widelux makes when you release the shutter ..... bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt. :p

Thanks!

I have seen Jeff Bridges work, it was one of the first things that made me really fall in love with the Widelux =).

I was eyeing a few F7's and an F8, but the condition of the F6 i bought was or looked a little better taken care of. Pus as my wife put it "the silver one looks cool", lol..

I have seen a few images with fingers, so i have already noted that haha

Thanks to all once again :)
 
So, i got the F6. Love it, super clean upon inspection....BUT, the shutter speeds seemed a little slower than they were supposed to be, and the aperture setting wouldn't budge after i was able to get it to f2.8. Also, when i first tried firing the camera, it stopped after starting really slow, but then continued after a few seconds of me sitting there staring at it. i assumed it hadn't been used in a while, so i "massaged" it a few times.

Right away i packed it up and shipped it out to Bob at Precision. i figured, why even bother trying a roll yet since i was planning on doing a CLA anyhow.

SO now i wait again, but this time with a higher expectation knowing it has been serviced =)
 
Hi Nyc Dito,
How did the F6 work out after getting it serviced? I have an F8 with banding problems and the turret will not fully cycle. I'm gettting closer to sending it to Precision but feel like the cost to service it will be prohibitive (close or more than a 'new' F8). What would be nice is finding an F8 seller who can confirm a very recent CLA and also confirm there is absolutely NO banding. That or i learn how to fix it myself. Getting closer to the latter option since i have nothing to lose. Anyway, your comments (and others) would be appreciated.
 
Update...
i learned how to CLA my Widelux F8. I must say, alignment of Gearboxes (both winding and turret speed gear boxes) is critical to solving banding issues. i learned alot with the help of what survives on: http://jumboprawn.net/jesse/category/cameras/widelux/

I recommend that Widelux users try it for themselves. Highly rewarding and no special tools needed.

I also found my turret return bumper unglued and damaged. I fashioned my own bumper, reglued and recalibrated (stop cam gear). My photos are great. Banding now gone.
 
I love the widelux: both from design and capabilities. In the end I decided it is not for me (after owning and using 2 f8's). The reason: I al not a people-photographer and scanning the negatives on my Epson v750 is not satisfactory. Therefore analogue is restricted to medium and Large format.
 
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