mh2000
Well-known
Just getting started shooting paper negatives. I've had a couple successful tests using Ilford MGIV rated at ISO 4 and developed in Tmax 1:9. My last tests were kind of a disaster though since I apparently got some bad information on the internet! Hahaha! Yeah, that happens, right?
My problem is how to adjust exposure from Sunny-16 when using paper? After getting some way over-exposed overcast day shots I've read that actually Ilford paper is very blue sensitive and under overcast days or in shadows, the color temperature is skewed toward the blue, it seems like I should not be increasing exposure as much as Sunny-16 would suggest?
So typically, if I'm at ISO 4, I would shoot for 1 sec at f32 in sunny scenes and 16 sec at f32 for full shade, but if the color is much more blue and the paper is more blue sensitive, shouldn't I give back a stop for this? If not a stop, half a stop?
Yeah, I will just keep testing, but if anyone is out shooting paper and has a rule of thumb, it'd be great to share!
Thanks!
My problem is how to adjust exposure from Sunny-16 when using paper? After getting some way over-exposed overcast day shots I've read that actually Ilford paper is very blue sensitive and under overcast days or in shadows, the color temperature is skewed toward the blue, it seems like I should not be increasing exposure as much as Sunny-16 would suggest?
So typically, if I'm at ISO 4, I would shoot for 1 sec at f32 in sunny scenes and 16 sec at f32 for full shade, but if the color is much more blue and the paper is more blue sensitive, shouldn't I give back a stop for this? If not a stop, half a stop?
Yeah, I will just keep testing, but if anyone is out shooting paper and has a rule of thumb, it'd be great to share!
Thanks!
mh2000
Well-known
follow-up
follow-up
since this post is getting a lot of views (even though no responses) I figure there is some interest, so here's where I've gotten with paper negatives.
Since my problem has been over exposure, I've changed my ISO rating from 4 to 6.
The lack of latitude and dynamic range limits my previously assumed mastery of using Sunny-16, so I've pulled out my little Sekonic Twinmate meter and am metering every shot.
With metered shots and full development (Tmax 1:9), I am successfully blowing out highlights AND blocking up shadows! That makes me think I've pretty much nailed my paper's sensitivity! I will have to get a better handle on adjusting exposure for which end I want to preserve.
In one shot where I forgot to stop down, it was proven that unlike film, 2-stops over exposure resulted in a dark gray rectangle usable for nothing!
For now, I am ignoring any adjustments for UV or blue light sensitivity or time of day. I will note issues when they arise.
I am really enjoying using LF and paper negatives and the response I'm getting is very positive!
Note: Burke and James Orbit Camera, Kodak Anastigmat Meniscus lens, f32, Ilford RC paper negative
follow-up
since this post is getting a lot of views (even though no responses) I figure there is some interest, so here's where I've gotten with paper negatives.
Since my problem has been over exposure, I've changed my ISO rating from 4 to 6.
The lack of latitude and dynamic range limits my previously assumed mastery of using Sunny-16, so I've pulled out my little Sekonic Twinmate meter and am metering every shot.
With metered shots and full development (Tmax 1:9), I am successfully blowing out highlights AND blocking up shadows! That makes me think I've pretty much nailed my paper's sensitivity! I will have to get a better handle on adjusting exposure for which end I want to preserve.
In one shot where I forgot to stop down, it was proven that unlike film, 2-stops over exposure resulted in a dark gray rectangle usable for nothing!
For now, I am ignoring any adjustments for UV or blue light sensitivity or time of day. I will note issues when they arise.
I am really enjoying using LF and paper negatives and the response I'm getting is very positive!
Note: Burke and James Orbit Camera, Kodak Anastigmat Meniscus lens, f32, Ilford RC paper negative
Attachments
Larry H-L
Well-known
If you are using multi-grade paper, you might try adding a yellow filter to your lens, it should result in slightly lower contrast / longer tonal scale. You’d have test out the filter factor.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I've not bothered with trying to adjust for blue sensitivity or such. But contrast is a problem with paper emulsions ... use a soft developer, diluted, and minimal agitation (pre-wet the paper).
I've just configured the Mamiya Press 23 Super to use the sheet film back, and have the film holders loaded...
G
I've just configured the Mamiya Press 23 Super to use the sheet film back, and have the film holders loaded...
G
Joao
Negativistic forever
Can you please tell the development times you are using with Tmax 1:9 and Ilford RC paper ??
Thanks in advance
Joao
rjbuzzclick
Well-known
I typically shoot my paper negatives in the 6-12 range and develop them in standard strength (1+9) Ilford Multigrade developer. What really worked for me in controlling contrast was pulling them early from the developer and not letting them develop to completion. Sometimes I'm pulling them as early as :20-:30. It just depends on how fast they come up. With such short development times I occasionally get uneven development but I feel that adds something so I don't worry about it much. Keep in mind I usually contact print my paper negatives as opposed to scanning them.
I have pre-flashed the paper in the past which seemed to have helped some too. I'm currently using a bunch of old Kodak RC multicontrast paper that's slightly fogged so I haven't been bothering with pre-flashing.
Here's a link to my paper negatives on Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=53847054%40N00&sort=date-taken-desc&text=papernegative&view_all=1
I have pre-flashed the paper in the past which seemed to have helped some too. I'm currently using a bunch of old Kodak RC multicontrast paper that's slightly fogged so I haven't been bothering with pre-flashing.
Here's a link to my paper negatives on Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=53847054%40N00&sort=date-taken-desc&text=papernegative&view_all=1
mh2000
Well-known
Around 2 - 2 1/2 minutes, with very little agitation the last minute.
Squinting at the digitaltruth data for film, Tmax at 1:9 appeared to be roughly similar to Rodinal at 1:100 and I've seen some impressive paper images from people using that and an ISO rating of 4.
mh2000
Well-known
Thanks! That's something I was going to try! Need to find one to push onto my old lenses.
mh2000
Well-known
Nice photos!!!
I've read that using a film developer was generally better for taming contrast which is why I started with Tmax. I have some Eco-Pro paper developer, maybe I'll give that a try too!
Thanks!
mh2000
Well-known
So further experiences: after carefully metering all shots, I've pretty much discovered that if I am shooting within a few hours of solar noon that I am over-exposing by at least a stop with a rating of ISO 6. I will try rating at ISO 12 for my next tests during this time period.
I've read that paper is UV sensitive and even if you find a UV day chart, it's beyond me to figure out the impact that this percentage has in the whole spectrum mix on the Ilford paper exposure-wise.
Luckily for me, I make most my shots after 5:30 pm and exposures at ISO 6 then are really good!
I've read that paper is UV sensitive and even if you find a UV day chart, it's beyond me to figure out the impact that this percentage has in the whole spectrum mix on the Ilford paper exposure-wise.
Luckily for me, I make most my shots after 5:30 pm and exposures at ISO 6 then are really good!