Using 35mm film in a medium format camera

valdas said:
I have done this with Bessa II (using 120 spool and backing paper)... I got it a bit wrong.... but some shots came out quite funny:

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Love this!

The whole reason I started experimenting with 35mm film in an MF camera was because I was day-dreaming about a future panoramic camera purchase (something like a Fuji 617, Noblex, Xpan, etc...). After doing some research I realized the Xpan neg (24x65) would be roughly the same as sticking 35mm film in a 6x7 MF (24x70) if you crop out the sprocket holes. Figured my Plaubel w/80mm lens would be a good free approximation of an Xpan w/90mm lens.

Next time I test a roll for film flatness/sharpness, I'll be sure to find a more static subject than swinging kids!
 
If you want youcan save money and just cut down 120 reels to fit the 35mm. As above, thats what I did to replace a missing piece for my adapter. Looks like the middle part of your pic. You can carve the same for the other side of the 35mm canister and use a standard reel with adhesive tape at the other end. But rewind manually in a darkbag/darkroom.
 
Good news. I think my previous focus concerns were a scanning issue/child stillness issue, not a film flatness problem. Focus is bang on. I also found that with the Plaubel 670 set to 220 film, I can get 19 shots on a roll of 35mm 36 exp film. That leaves very little waste, just a bit on the front end of the roll because there is no paper leader. Framing is a still a mystery, but that just adds to the excitement!

Super fun!

med_U36898I1498193051.SEQ.0.jpg
 
That's a lovely photo.

Framing - you should be able to make up one of the make-do options - either a wire frame accessory finder (out of fencing wire or similar) or make a screening device for the top and bottom of your VF - even electrical tape though the adhesive can be an issue. you should be able to measure up the top and bottom - deduct 35mm from the 56mm of the MF, divide by 2 for the top and bottom of the film - so about 10.5/56 off top and bottom. The central portion is 24 of 56 - a little less than 1/2. If you want, reducing the front of the VF to 1/2 usual with 1/4 marked off the top and 1/4 off the bottom should approximate.

PS - and the film flatness will be much improved with the 220 settings - which should move the pressure plate closer in.
 
dmr said:
One of my dad's folding cameras actually had an adapter that allowed you to use 35mm (well, 828) in it in place of the 620/120 it normally used. I don't remember ever using it. I guess the idea has been around for decades, actually.
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I have a back for 4x5 and one for 9x12 that takes 828 which the holders call 35mm. I have acquired a film splitter, but have yet to use it. I once talked with a photographer who formally worked in the auto business. He claimed the 4x5 back especially was used for the film saving, and still being able to use movements was a reason for it. Never made sense to me, but I guess if you needed enough photos and had sufficient magnification, it would all work out. I have no idea what lenses might have been used. I also don't know all the films used. I know I have read of b/w and one of my holders talks about Kodachrome.
 
I tried using the 120 backing paper and just roll the 35mm film but the film didn't stay aligned. I'm using a Pentax 67 and a metal mask since I'm afraid of the ends of the film to damage the cloth curtains.
Is there a way to ensure that the film will stay in the center?

The first one was ok but as I kept advancing the film it got pretty bad.
Film-615-_Pano.jpg


Film-611-_Pano.jpg
 
great shots!
I have some 35mm-120 spools as I figured I could use them on my MF as a cheap/bulky XPAN camera, just havent had much chance to shoot with it.

Have a Holga 120GFN that I wanted to play with this, I'll give it a whirl this weekend.
 
Daniel.E said:
I tried using the 120 backing paper and just roll the 35mm film but the film didn't stay aligned. I'm using a Pentax 67 and a metal mask since I'm afraid of the ends of the film to damage the cloth curtains.
Is there a way to ensure that the film will stay in the center?
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Please see this post of mine above for a link to the 35mm->MF adapter I used. It keeps the 35mm film canister centered on the spools -- which in turn helps when framing in the viewfinder as you know you'll be capturing roughly the center section in line with the RF spot. Good luck... it's quite fun!
 
Yes thank you! I saw that but I don't want to use an adapter like that. I want to be able to respool 35mm into 120 backing paper. Adapters like that one need a small dark bag in the field and I just want to have a couple of preloaded rolls and then keep shooting 120.
 
Warning using thick 35-120 in Kiev 60(type) cameras!

Warning using thick 35-120 in Kiev 60(type) cameras!

Never ever think about using the thick standard and plastic 35-120-adapter in Kiev 60 and similar cams with the same filmpressure system. I dont know if its the same in P6-type cams.
another person-in kievreport(delphiforum) confirmed the break of the axis of the blade(filmpressure system). the thick plastic adapter will not only break the axis(i was lucky someone selling a body for parts removed the needed axis and sent overseas) but will also produce residue/dust. best is getting a slimmer adapter(cameraworks has a slim one). Best one is the only metallic one from USA. In my case it was more dramatic since i added too thick tape to filmpressure-plate(baierfoto-trick)- i couldnt hardly transport film. i thought too thick tape was the reason but it was not. another one confirmed the loss of the leftsided(donorside) axis in his nonaltered cam. this 0.1mm tape flattens film.
 
Bronica did offer 24x36mm backs for the ETR and SQ lines, and a 24x54 panorama back for the latter. Wish I had grabbed one when I had the opportunity.

Ozmoose-I'm with you on not being a fan of the sprocket hole look, but why not crop? I suppose the bigger issue is getting accurate framing.

I'm intrigued by this. I'm just trying to wrap my head around how loading and rewinding might work, and the vertical film path in a 6x6. I don't think my Fuji with it's automatic loading might take too well to this setup.
 
Takkun said:
I'm intrigued by this. I'm just trying to wrap my head around how loading and rewinding might work, and the vertical film path in a 6x6. I don't think my Fuji with it's automatic loading might take too well to this setup.
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I've done this with the GSW690 III. The trick to making it work is adding a little silicon tape to the film counter roller. That gives the 35mm film enough friction to roll the counter and make it all work. I set the pressure plate to 220 and the counter to 16 shots.

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For takeup I 3d printed a 120 spool that is sized for 35mm to keep the film centered properly and added a 35mm mask. To unload in a changing bag is really easy. Just pop both ends out and the rewind into the film canister.

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Shawn
 
Intrigued by that film mask! looked up the name and they've got some intriguing little bits for MF.

I'm running a GX680, which has a fully automatic film wind-on and advance, which, according to the manual, uses some sort of optical registration. At the very least, some sort of magic for the initial wind to frame 1; I just load the insert and drop it in. I'd probably have to figure out how to tape a roll to backing paper and keep it aligned.

Shame, since with the 65mm it could be a fun pano camera. From what I can tell from your negs looks like the 6x9 is turning out well for that purpose for you.
 
Takkun said:
Intrigued by that film mask! looked up the name and they've got some intriguing little bits for MF.

I'm running a GX680, which has a fully automatic film wind-on and advance, which, according to the manual, uses some sort of optical registration. At the very least, some sort of magic for the initial wind to frame 1; I just load the insert and drop it in. I'd probably have to figure out how to tape a roll to backing paper and keep it aligned.

Shame, since with the 65mm it could be a fun pano camera. From what I can tell from your negs looks like the 6x9 is turning out well for that purpose for you.
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I'm not sure how it would work for a GX680 with its automatic wind-on and advance, but I'm using the same panoramic adapter kit for the Pentax 6x7. I use a paper leader cut down from 120 backing paper, with a reloadable 35mm cassette on the take up side. I have more examples on my Flickr, but this is my first image using the adapter kit:




And a more recent one:



I followed this video tutorial for my Pentax 6x7:
https://vimeo.com/220566205/1518da40fe

Some other tutorials and techniques:
https://www.peterjeffrey.photography/film-photography-blog/shooting-35mm-film-through-a-pentax-67
www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGe5L7oxB1o
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6utCYVAZGXI
www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUSKn4eLdHE
 
Very informative, especially that first video. I think it would be possible with the 680, albeit a bit of a project figuring it out; the backing paper would probably work with the sensor, but then I'd need to cut the film short since it wants to wind up automatically, too. Are you all using full 36exp rolls?

If I'm remembering the 67 correctly, you can set the pressure plate and the film counter separately, and that's how you can get the extra exposures, correct? My other two MF bodies are a C33 and a Rollei 6008, both of which I believe will unlock and spool the film up once the counter goes past 12. Time to experiment at least and won't cost much beyond a few expired rolls of film.

Of course, I can't mention this to my SO. There's a 690 like Shawn's at the local shop and she's an enabler..
 
Takkun said:
Are you all using full 36exp rolls?

If I'm remembering the 67 correctly, you can set the pressure plate and the film counter separately, and that's how you can get the extra exposures, correct?
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Yes, I'm using 36-exposure rolls, but bulk loaded. So far, I'm getting around 18 panoramic shots per roll plus or minus one, depending on how carefully the cassette was loaded and how much was lost at the tail when loading.

For the Pentax 6x7, I set the counter to 220 so that the camera will advance past 10 frames (to 20 frames?), and also set the pressure plate to 220. On my last roll, I experimented with leaving the pressure plate at 120. If it made a difference, I'm not sure I could tell.
 
Scrambler said:
You've lost me.

The 635 has vertical film (portrait orientation). Are you saying using the camera on its side? AFAIK there is no pentaprism VF for the Yashicas so you would need to look across into the VF, and cope with the inversion.

I have 2 1960's film catalogs (sorry - catalogues would have been the correct spelling in 1960's Australia) - and the Yashica is a LOT cheaper than the Mamiya- and that's before accessorizing.
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here's an option: https://www.flickr.com/photos/raulm/5114409012

Or you can just tape in a cardboard mask.

I think people avoid sports finders when they are really a great feature for everything except focusing!
 
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