Muggins
Junk magnet
Camera is a Kodak Tourist similar to the one at the top of this article: Kodak Tourist (1948)
This occurs in every frame of the roll, density and number varies. As far as I can ascertain all the shutter blades open and close OK (it's not got the 800 shutter, so no capping blades to worry about).
Shots were all taken with the sun behind, there is a sprung cover over the red window so only open when winding film. My best guess is that there's some kind of internal reflection - any better ideas? I'm really peeved by this, it's a lovely camera that can obviously deliver decent results, but this damn leak spoils it!
This occurs in every frame of the roll, density and number varies. As far as I can ascertain all the shutter blades open and close OK (it's not got the 800 shutter, so no capping blades to worry about).
Shots were all taken with the sun behind, there is a sprung cover over the red window so only open when winding film. My best guess is that there's some kind of internal reflection - any better ideas? I'm really peeved by this, it's a lovely camera that can obviously deliver decent results, but this damn leak spoils it!
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Alpsman
Well-known
Are all the leaves of the central shutter working really properly? Ore to specify it, if the shutter is closed, is it really completey fully closed.
Muggins
Junk magnet
Yes, when the shutter closes, there is no light visible when pointed at a bright source. I've edited the OP to reflect this.
I am thinking that in both shots the most intense area of leakage is low in the frame, conceivably where the red window is, and the bigger leak is brightest* closest to that leak, and gets darker further away - so light is entering the camera where the leak is brightest (stating the obvious - what I'm trying to say is that is telling me which direction the light is coming from)
Over the years I've got into the habit of winding on after taking a shot, but not winding right to the next number, so when I look I can see that I've taken a shot and need to finish winding on. This also means, I hope, that the film is tight as I wind on fully to the number after I open the bellows. I think this explains the double leak in some pics.
So these would have been wound on with the sun over my shoulder, into the window - Delta 100 doesn't have particularly thin backing, does it? It's many years since I've had issues there - even with Portra where the markings are so faint I have to let bright sun fall on the window so I can see the numbers! All this makes me think red window, as does the curved shape of the leak which looks like the edge of the internal flap that blocks the red window (and, incidentally, makes it a bugger to wind on because of how you have to hold it)
But how and where? I can't see a bright spot that might reflect light, and the pressure plate actually has a felt pad behind it.
OK - I'm going to have to dive in with a bright light, I think, apologies for all the rambling above, but it helps me get my thoughts straight.
*in terms of the positive
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Alpsman
Well-known
How about the bellows? I have a old Zeiss which had a very tiny little puncture in one of the fold. It was hard to find. I lighted the inner in a dark room with a strong lamp and repaired it with so called "fluid rubber" - problem solved.
Muggins
Junk magnet
I will do a flashgun check on the bellows, thank you for the reminder. I think it's too big and hard-edged for a bellows leak, but there's no harm in checking.
Pity it wasn't colour film where the colour of the leak would have told me which side of the film it was coming from. Though I'd have been even more mad at the spoiled pics.
Pity it wasn't colour film where the colour of the leak would have told me which side of the film it was coming from. Though I'd have been even more mad at the spoiled pics.
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Alpsman
Well-known
Another possibility: next time you use film, tape the back of the camera around the gap with black tape. Also the small window on the back where you can see the frame number. When you wind the film, remove the tape and hold the back of the camera in the shadow of your body and then stick the tape back over it.
Develop the film and check whether the light spots are still there or whether they are as strong as before.
The strength/intensity of the light spots can also depend on how you are standing with the camera in relation to the sun. If the sun is shining directly on the hole, the spot is obviously stronger.
Develop the film and check whether the light spots are still there or whether they are as strong as before.
The strength/intensity of the light spots can also depend on how you are standing with the camera in relation to the sun. If the sun is shining directly on the hole, the spot is obviously stronger.
Muggins
Junk magnet
Frustratingly, I do usually use a piece of black tape, but as this camera had a slide underneath the red window, I didn't this time. If we ever get some more sun I'll have to try, though Britain in November is not sunshine central, especially this year!
What with failing to get to grips with Caffenol and now this, film and I are falling out a bit!
What with failing to get to grips with Caffenol and now this, film and I are falling out a bit!
Alpsman
Well-known
Even here in Austria it is not always sunny in November ;-)
I use normal commercially available developer, so I know what the result will be when developing.
I use normal commercially available developer, so I know what the result will be when developing.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Those are very well defined shapes, bellow leaks tend to be more "fuzzy".
Alpsman
Well-known
Thats why I thought of a leak in the shutter leaves.
vitaly66
slightly tilted
My guess -- truly a guess -- is the leak will be at some point to the left or right of where the bellows joins the film body. The leaked light will be striking the film from the front side of the camera, when the lens panel is open, at some point where the film is outside the film gate. That is, at some point either before or after the film frame is in position for exposure.
Although at first glance the shape and position of the leak would suggest some association with the film number window, the film backing paper will mitigate this. Also, the film number window on this camera will be offset from the center line, while these leaks appear pretty much centered.
It may be possible to detect by going into the dark closet, allowing time for your eyes to adjust, then shining a bright led flashlight around all joints between bellows and body.
Whatever you find, I hope you are able to get this sorted. The sample images you have posted show the results will be terrific!
Although at first glance the shape and position of the leak would suggest some association with the film number window, the film backing paper will mitigate this. Also, the film number window on this camera will be offset from the center line, while these leaks appear pretty much centered.
It may be possible to detect by going into the dark closet, allowing time for your eyes to adjust, then shining a bright led flashlight around all joints between bellows and body.
Whatever you find, I hope you are able to get this sorted. The sample images you have posted show the results will be terrific!
Muggins
Junk magnet
Hmm. Light tests (had to wait for darkness, I don't fit in the wardrobe!) do show pinholes up the corners, which have been smeared with liquid electrical tape, but I don't believe that explains the regularity of the shape. Once the tape has had a decent time to dry I will investigate further...
Muggins
Junk magnet
This is the album with them all in - some (eg scan0006) definitely at least partly the bellows, but that doesn't explain the big one.
www.flickr.com
Kodak Tourist
A charming and well-specified late Kodak folder, given to me by a contact in the USA. Manufactured sometime between 1948 and 1951 (compare with the British-made Six-20 Folding Brownie of the same date), this has a coated triplet Anaston lens and shutter speeds to 1/200th of a second, together...
www.flickr.com
Alpsman
Well-known
I "suspect" that the problem is with the shutter because the edges of the light spot are so sharp. From this I conclude that the light is entering through the lens. But of course I could be wrong.
Alpsman
Well-known
Light leaks in the bellows look something like this.
You will probably notice that the light comes in from the edge and the edges of the light spot are not sharp.
Thats why I suspect . . . see my post # 14
There was also a tiny leak in the opposite side of the bellows, but that only "leaks" when the sunlight hits directly.
You will probably notice that the light comes in from the edge and the edges of the light spot are not sharp.
Thats why I suspect . . . see my post # 14
There was also a tiny leak in the opposite side of the bellows, but that only "leaks" when the sunlight hits directly.
Muggins
Junk magnet
Right. Second roll put through camera in similarly bright light to the first.
Bellows inspected and liquid electrical tape appled appropriately (more pinholes than I expected, most of my experience with folding Kodaks has been with pre-WW2 models where the bellows are generally either absolutely fine or visibly knackered to the naked eye. I wonder whether the material changed?). Edges taped. Rear window cover taped. Shots taken at f5.6-16 and 1/50 to 1/200th. Care taken never to let sun shine on red window when winding.
Some results:
No sign of leaks on any of the pics, so whatever the big leak was it seems to have been from the back.
Bellows inspected and liquid electrical tape appled appropriately (more pinholes than I expected, most of my experience with folding Kodaks has been with pre-WW2 models where the bellows are generally either absolutely fine or visibly knackered to the naked eye. I wonder whether the material changed?). Edges taped. Rear window cover taped. Shots taken at f5.6-16 and 1/50 to 1/200th. Care taken never to let sun shine on red window when winding.
Some results:
No sign of leaks on any of the pics, so whatever the big leak was it seems to have been from the back.
Alpsman
Well-known
Now keep on happy snapping with your "time machine" 