What Were They Thinking? A compendium of camera design blunders and omissions

Small point - I believe it was the Nikkormat Ft that had that little ASA tab arrangement. I think the Nikkormat FtN (and Nikkomat FtN in Japan) fixed this.

I know because I have an Ft here that I still use. At 70 ish years of age, the silly thing refuses to retire. The meter even works.

Quite likely so. It was so long ago...

Google tells me the Nikkormat FS had no meter. The FT had the fiddly finger-nail breaker sliding whatsit- the mechanism, I guess.

So yeh, I probably had an FT. This in 1974. Half a century ago. Woo!

As an aside to this, until a few years ago Ebay had zillions of Nikkormats on offer, usually at <$100 even with the legendary but nowadays considered as rather boring Nikkor 50/2.0. Just this week I went into Ebay for the first time in a long while, to check on what film cameras are available - and found none.

Was it just on that particular day? At any rate, my FT2s are now in need of new batteries. I must take them out and dust them off and put them through their paces. The wonderful thing about almost all (excepting the EL) older Nikkormats is, they go on doing what they do without a functioning meter. So entirely manual.
 
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I'd agree one of the bigger foibles of the original Brownie (and early versions of the No.2 Brownie) was the detachable winding key. While it made the camera cheaper to make, they are easily lost and the camera is dead without one. When encountered today, they are often found missing the winding key. I was lucky enough to find this one with the winding key and finder in an antique store mixed in with a box of other assorted box cameras for $25.

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People who have seen me around will also know I'm an Ektra fanboy. I've managed acquire and CLA two Ektra bodies with new curtains as well as acquire the 35mm f/3.3, 50mm f/3.5, 50mm f/1.9, 90mm f/3.5 and 135mm f/3.8 lenses. All the lenses are superb, and all are coated from the factory (although it's an interior soft-ish coating on pre-war examples). Mine have given me zero shutter troubles since they were overhauled and I have put a not insignificant number of rolls of film though them (probably 100+, which isn't a lot for a professional photographer, but quite a few for a hobbyist like me). Mine also both have the early style shutter which is supposed to be the more unreliable one FWIW.

The "left handedness" of them doesn't bother me. It took about 5 minutes to get used to it and now it's normal. The rangefinder is exceedingly accurate, it has an effective base length of 178mm. I also really like the variofocal viewfinder. It's really nice to just turn a dial when changing lenses rather than having to use an accessory viewfinder and having your FOV take up the full viewfinder image rather than having just a framed area like with projected framelines. The folding rewind crank on the bottom which automatically disconnects the film advance is also really sweet.

Ektar 50mm 1.9.jpg

I also picked up an Exakta Varex VX recently with a 58mm f/2 Biotar. I haven't shot any film though it yet, though I quite like it. Coming from the Ektra, the "left handedness" is no problem, though I prefer the back cover mounted double stroke lever of the Ektra to the top mounted long throw lever of the Exakta.
 
Did the XG7 and other XG series Minoltas also not meter in manual mode? Its weird that Minolta would do that on the CLE, when the XD11 could meter in manual mode.
Coming up on my first year with an XG-M and I can confirm it does meter in manual mode.
 
I will never understand why so many people complain about bottom loading.

In all the years of doing it, I've only ever had one failed load - caused by the classic "film not on the sprockets" problem - compared to countless failed loads on open-back cameras.

Plus, bottom loading cameras - even the weird octagonal Canon bottom loaders - are solid. No flappy back means a more rigid construction, a better feel in the hand (no seams or joins), and far fewer light leaks.

Personally, I'd have put basically every camera ever made by Zeiss in this list... the Contax I is a hot mess of nonsense, and there's a lot about the Contax II and III which is hilariously poorly designed.
I've come around to bottom loading since coming into possession of my M3. Is it cumbersome and antiquated? Yeah. But I took to it very quickly. 5 rolls in and yet to have a false start. Can't say the same with my other 135 cameras, almost all of which end up taking me more time to load due to the leader slipping out of the slot on the take-up spool at least once before finally catching. Only 135 camera that takes the film without fuss is the Canonet G-III QL-17 with its quick load mechanism: just stretch the film over the rails, close the back and you're in business. My second roll in the M3 I loaded in less than a minute, furtively, to catch an approaching bus.
 
I've come around to bottom loading since coming into possession of my M3. Is it cumbersome and antiquated? Yeah. But I took to it very quickly. 5 rolls in and yet to have a false start. Can't say the same with my other 135 cameras, almost all of which end up taking me more time to load due to the leader slipping out of the slot on the take-up spool at least once before finally catching. Only 135 camera that takes the film without fuss is the Canonet G-III QL-17 with its quick load mechanism: just stretch the film over the rails, close the back and you're in business. My second roll in the M3 I loaded in less than a minute, furtively, to catch an approaching bus.
Yep, I confirm the same experience. The Leicas are easy and quick to load, and I'm always struggling with the slip 'n slide Bessa's and Zeiss-Ikons. Cheers, OtL
 
I will never understand why so many people complain about bottom loading.
My father told me that he became friends with Günther Leitz because, as a quite new optical-mechanical engineering graduate, and having seen a prototype Leica M3, my father asked Mr Leitz “why do you still need to half disassemble it to change the film?”

Marty
 
Even though I'll admit, the Konica IIIM is a bit ungainly in it's metered design, I love the quirkiness of it. I actually have two with working and accurate meters (for how long?). I also love Carl Zeiss Werra's......
 
I've come around to bottom loading since coming into possession of my M3. Is it cumbersome and antiquated? Yeah. But I took to it very quickly. 5 rolls in and yet to have a false start. Can't say the same with my other 135 cameras, almost all of which end up taking me more time to load due to the leader slipping out of the slot on the take-up spool at least once before finally catching. Only 135 camera that takes the film without fuss is the Canonet G-III QL-17 with its quick load mechanism: just stretch the film over the rails, close the back and you're in business. My second roll in the M3 I loaded in less than a minute, furtively, to catch an approaching bus.
M Leicas aren't proper bottom loading. The back hinges so you can see what you're doing, which takes away all the fun.
 
With bottom loading, I can do it, but have had trouble getting the sprocket holes in the sprocket. On the Zorki it seems to catch in fine, but a few times on my other Barnack clones, for whatever reason I have trouble getting it in.
 

"What Were They Thinking?"​

Anything with a rifle-stock aught to fit the bill :giggle:

Leica Sabre Visoflex Camera Rifle Gun Stock​

 
3) removable take up spools shouldn't be able to drop out freely the second the back is removed.

8) Oh, and another thing that's less convenient than a Leica: I can put a Leica III baseplate in my mouth and load while walking. Try holding an entire Contax II back in your mouth (while also looking around for where that take up spool has gone). Good luck.

The Leica III take-up spool can still easily skedaddle off to hang out with the Contax spool.:D
 
Good luck taking that through airport security. "Please come with me, sir."

The Department Of Homemade Security ... shudder. I once had those meatballs paw through a bag of Hasselblad stuff looking for .... a filter? A dark slide? I dunno. It was not fun.

I understand the need for- and the value of some level of security theater, but TSA does not give me the sense that they actually know what they're looking for.
 
There are stories online about the use of the Contax 18cm f2.8 at the 1936 Olympics in Berlin where the camera and lens mounted on a rifle stock were confiscated by security forces. I get why someone would mount a big lens on a rifle stock, it would be a lot easier to hold steady. Same reason that it is a lot easier to shoot a rifle accurately than a pistol, especially at distance
 
Quite likely so. It was so long ago...

Google tells me the Nikkormat FS had no meter. The FT had the fiddly finger-nail breaker sliding whatsis.

So yeh, I probably had an FT. This in 1974. Half a century ago. Woo!

As an aside to this, until a few years ago Ebay had zillions of Nikkormats on offer, usually at <$100 even with the legendary but nowadays considered as rather boring Nikkor 50/2.0. Just this week I went into Ebay for the first time in a long while, to check on what film cameras are available - and found none.

Was it just on that particular day? At any rate, my FT2s are now in need of new batteries. I must take them out and dust them off and put them through their paces. The wonderful thing about almost (excepting the EL) all older Nikkormats is, they go on shooting nicely without a functioning meter.
And that's the thing about the FT Nikkormats -- the twitchy meter. Hard to find one of these cameras these days with a meter needle that doesn't jump around. I know; you don't need the meter for the camera to work, but it's really annoying, and I won't buy one if the meter is misbehaving. It's not as if these cameras are hard to find. I see two on Craigslist nearby right now.

And does anyone know how to fix the meter? I understand there's some sort of carbon track (?) that maybe can be cleaned and get the meter in working order, but how to get at it (and where it is, for that matter) I don't know.
 
And that's the thing about the FT Nikkormats -- the twitchy meter. Hard to find one of these cameras these days with a meter needle that doesn't jump around. I know; you don't need the meter for the camera to work, but it's really annoying, and I won't buy one if the meter is misbehaving. It's not as if these cameras are hard to find. I see two on Craigslist nearby right now.

And does anyone know how to fix the meter? I understand there's some sort of carbon track (?) that maybe can be cleaned and get the meter in working order, but how to get at it (and where it is, for that matter) I don't know.

You can mildly improve this by running a drop of naptha into the seam of the shutter speed selector ring.
 
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