Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Right after purchasing M8 I slapped re-shimmed "white" Jupiter-12 on it. No IR-cut filter was attached, flares were abundant, but I liked how colors were rendered. From time to time I noticed little bit less of color range comparing to others cameras, but it wasn't bad.
I received Color Skopar 35 2.5 which supposed to be even better with colors and non-Leica IR-cut filter also arrived. But outdoor pictures are now with shifted WB to the blue color and indoor pictures have less color range in them. Colors are close to something like in JPEG1 files from very old 2MP CCD P&S cameras. While I'm using DNG files only.
Is this the reason why I need to code this lens and enable "lens recognition, IR/UV fllter on" ? I could try to copy the code from my Summarit-M 35 2.5, I guess.
I received Color Skopar 35 2.5 which supposed to be even better with colors and non-Leica IR-cut filter also arrived. But outdoor pictures are now with shifted WB to the blue color and indoor pictures have less color range in them. Colors are close to something like in JPEG1 files from very old 2MP CCD P&S cameras. While I'm using DNG files only.
Is this the reason why I need to code this lens and enable "lens recognition, IR/UV fllter on" ? I could try to copy the code from my Summarit-M 35 2.5, I guess.
willie_901
Mentor
So the color rendering with the Skopar and a IR cut filter is less pleasing than the Jupiter without an IR cut filter?
I guess you need to compare the non-Leica IR-cut filter specs to the Leica equivalent. It could be the non-Leica IR-cut filter is eliminating some of the visible light.
Another possibility is the Skopar's lens coatings are are affecting the rendering you are accustomed to. The Jupiter's abundant flare may be a hint. However you should be able to render a Skopar DNG file to compensate for the lens coating's effects.
Does lens coding affect color balance?
I did not know there was a IR/UV filter option. I wonder if this is to compensate for vignetting rather than global color rendering? There is no way to correct for color casts from IR contamination after the shutter closes. UV color contamination is minimal as siicon-based pin photo-diode's are relatively insensitive to UV.
I guess you need to compare the non-Leica IR-cut filter specs to the Leica equivalent. It could be the non-Leica IR-cut filter is eliminating some of the visible light.
Another possibility is the Skopar's lens coatings are are affecting the rendering you are accustomed to. The Jupiter's abundant flare may be a hint. However you should be able to render a Skopar DNG file to compensate for the lens coating's effects.
Does lens coding affect color balance?
I did not know there was a IR/UV filter option. I wonder if this is to compensate for vignetting rather than global color rendering? There is no way to correct for color casts from IR contamination after the shutter closes. UV color contamination is minimal as siicon-based pin photo-diode's are relatively insensitive to UV.
presspass
filmshooter
Do you shoot raw or in jpeg format? The M8 creates notoriously horrible jpeg color files. You could also search the net for some of the profiles early users developed for Capture light, the program that came with new M8s. Those profiles did a good job of correcting color casts, although they couldn't completely fix the magenta problems. Some would even mimic color films like Kodachrome. BTW, did you try the Color Skopar without the IR cut filter to see how that compared with the Jupiter?
user237428934
User deletion pending
No. .... ....
raid
Dad Photographer
I have never used an IR cut filter with my M8.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I don't think the lens profiles affect the color rendering. They deal with issues that have to do with corner and edge artifacts and some rectilinear corrections.
I used lens code 11310-11 for the Color Skopar 35mm f/2.5 on the M9. It worked pretty well.
G
user237428934
User deletion pending
If you like the colour cast then it's perfectly ok, looks a bit brownish / vintage. The main difference between the colour rendition of your M8 and M9 images on your website is the lack of the IR cut filter.
raid
Dad Photographer
It is easy to adjust colors with PS, Tom.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Thank you all for recommendations!
This morning I looked at pictures I was taking with M8 and J-12, Skopar 35 and Summarit-M 35. Difference is present, but nothing bad regarding colors.
I think, I should invest in B+W IR cut filter and to avoid getting images too blue under bright sun, it is better to set M8 to manual WB instead of auto.
Strange thing with setting manual WB with my M8 is what it is refusing to take white list of paper as WB reference under bright sun.
This morning I looked at pictures I was taking with M8 and J-12, Skopar 35 and Summarit-M 35. Difference is present, but nothing bad regarding colors.
I think, I should invest in B+W IR cut filter and to avoid getting images too blue under bright sun, it is better to set M8 to manual WB instead of auto.
Strange thing with setting manual WB with my M8 is what it is refusing to take white list of paper as WB reference under bright sun.
gabrielcik
Member
Hi there,
Sorry to jump in this discussion
I have recently got an used M8 and I tested it out with a Skopar 35 2.5.
I really like this camera over all and the lens as well... I like the color tonality (even if I prefer BW in general).
Now question, in my color photos I notices in some light conditions a lot of chromatic aberrations or color fringing (mainly yellow-blue).
Is this due to have taken photos without an IR cut filter? or this is a sensor / lens issue?
I have used this lens only on film cameras so difficult to judge.
Have a look at the screen shot attached (notice the yellow-blue segments on the cable)
Thanks a lot
Sorry to jump in this discussion
I have recently got an used M8 and I tested it out with a Skopar 35 2.5.I really like this camera over all and the lens as well... I like the color tonality (even if I prefer BW in general).
Now question, in my color photos I notices in some light conditions a lot of chromatic aberrations or color fringing (mainly yellow-blue).
Is this due to have taken photos without an IR cut filter? or this is a sensor / lens issue?
I have used this lens only on film cameras so difficult to judge.
Have a look at the screen shot attached (notice the yellow-blue segments on the cable)
Thanks a lot
