Pentax Spotmeter V - any thoughts?

J

jamiewakeham

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Hi

I've decided I need a spotmeter. I seem to be acquiring more cameras with no meter built-in, and I just can't seem to get used to incident metering.

Had a look around the net, and I seem to be tempted by a Pentax Spotmeter V. There are a couple on the UK version of evilBay going for next to nothing.

Is anyone going to tell me I'm making a terrible mistake and should get something different, or does this seem a good idea? I'd love to go get a nice new Sekonic dual meter, but funds really don't permit...

Cheers
Jamie
 
I just got mine in the mail yesterday, so I'm still brimming with enthusiasm for this lovely device! Such elegance and precision! The 1-degree spot lets me see precisely what the reflected reading is for whatever part of the scene I want to meter for. The analog dial is precise and simple and very easy to read, with 1/3 stop scale divisions. The asa scale is calibrated for 6 asa to 6400 asa; aperture from f/1 to f/128, and shutter speeds from 1/4000 to 4 minutes! I can't wait for the weekend so I can actually use it!

Now - let's hear from someone who has already used one!
 
For curiosity, why a spot rather than a good averaging reflective, or does the Pentax do both? I have never used one so I don't know. I have the Gossen Luna Pro sbc with Spot attachment. Actually, I have the spot and the 7/15 degree both. I am sure you know that with a spot only a part of the photo area is going to be read correctly? Then you have to decide where the rest of the photo should be and compensate. If that is what you want to do, then for sure a spot will be good. But they have to be learned just like incident.

When I got my first incident meter, a Sekonic L28c2, I wasn't real het up on it either. But it didn't take long to where I preferred it to my reflective meter. Especially for MF photography. It just seemed more accurate on the fly. I could take the readings and run most of the time. I seldom had to adjust anything. Maybe that was just me and my style.

I don't think you will be unhappy with a spot meter, just don't expect miracles. You still have to figure out how to use it.
 
I gather the spot meter is ideal for landscape photography, and essential for folks who wish to apply the Zone system, which at this stage I know next-to-nothing about. I've seen plenty of people support it, also plenty bag it out - I guess it's something to learn about and decide if any part of it's useful to me.

I'd like to have had the spot meter with me last Wednesday, when I was taking photos of a monument with lots of detail in the dark shadows. It would have been handy to compare the spot reading for the shadows with the overall reading from my other meter.
 
I think that I just, well, think in terms of reflected light more easily. Certainly when I used my Canon SLR much more than I do these days, I habitually used its internal spotmeter as a matter of course; I'm very used to taking spot-readings of different areas of a scene and then figuring out the (correctly, a) correct exposure from them. I'm much less trusting of an incident reading, or of a reflective averaging system where I don't know or understand how it's averaging.

This all only really counts for slide, of course. Negative film of either flavour, I'm happy enough believing in the averaging meter in my Canonet or Pentax, or even going sunny-f/16 and guesswork with the Zorki. And this is good too.

The Pentax, btw, is solely a 1-degree spot. I'm homing in on it more because it seems really cheap than for anything else! I'm sure I'd be as happy with a LunaPro and its 7-degree attachment, but that'd cost more.

Cheers
Jamie
 
I owned a Spotmeter V for a few years and used it with LF gear. It is a very accurate meter and straightforward to use. I regret getting rid of it as I could use it with MF now. I believe there may be issues finding the right batteries with some of the older models, I had a version with a grey handle and the batteries were readily available. I'm sorry I can't be specific on the models but a web search should help you.
Cheers,
Nick
 
I've had my Spotmeter V for many years (probably 20 or more). I used to use it all the time (in addition to my trusty Spectra) when I did long lens cinematography. It was totally accurate and very quick and easy to use. After reading this thread I dug it out of the back of my my closet ( I usually meter using Sunny 16 these days ) and did a quick check. It was spot on- no pun intended. I'm sure you'll enjoy using it although it is rather large which is why I usually don't carry it in my bag. Good luck.
 
I have a Luna Pro F and of coarse I had to get the spot meter attachment...
After playing with it 'till the thrill wore off (GAS side effect...) I find that I never use it. Then again I haven't used slide film or LF in 20 years so I realy didn't need it. I read Adams' book and once again was amused by the Zone System, but when you tend to dump everything in Diafine it is more of a zen exercise. (Karate exercises are also good for you , but I'm not going to break boards with my head eather)
I'd love to have a spotmeter, but that's realy just gas talking. Say it out loud and if it sounds like the voice of your muse, rather than a woopi cushion, buy it. You can always sell it again.
 
Yeah, the Pentax spot meter looks at a 1 degree spot, making it useful for checking the light values of various small bits of the scene in front of you. See what the contrast is like, and if you'll need to let the shadows go or pull development, etc.

I got a new Pentax Digital Spotmeter in 1982 mostly for my wife's use in theatre photography. Averaging meters can really make a mess of stage photos, and if you can't get on stage for incident readings, a spot meter is the way to go. She doesn't do theatre work any more and I never used it much myself, so it's for sale. I have a Zone VI leather holster for it, and stuck a fresh 6v battery in (same one the big 6x7 camera uses); it works fine but would be pricier than the Spotmeter V.
 
I have been using a Pentax digital spotmeter for about 20 years now. It is my only meter in all my travels and for local shoots. Once you use this tool, you are stuck for life with it. I enjoy pointing the meter at scenes and then learning about exposure. I take 3-5 readings typically, but sometimes I take more readings. It is essential [for me] when using slide film in difficult light situations, such as being inside a cave or on top of a mountain and have snow. I stopped years ago buying hard to find batteries for my cameras. It is not economical to battery up 50-60 cameras when one meter will do the job. The Pentax spotmeter also directed me in buying SLR cameras with built-in spotmeters because I simply got used to taking specific readings. My calculated exposure is usually just what I was looking for in a given situation. I first got a Canon F1N and then got for it the spotmeter screens. Then I got a Canon T90 with the built-in spotmeter. Nikon had not yet offered spotmeters in their SLR cameras.

I still carry my trusted Pentax in my little canvas camera bag with my old Leicas and Canon cameras. The Pentax V is bigger than the digital meter, but both are great tools.

Enjoy ....
 
Dougg said:
Yeah, the Pentax spot meter looks at a 1 degree spot, making it useful for checking the light values of various small bits of the scene in front of you. See what the contrast is like, and if you'll need to let the shadows go or pull development, etc.

I got a new Pentax Digital Spotmeter in 1982 mostly for my wife's use in theater photography. Averaging meters can really make a mess of stage photos, and if you can't get on stage for incident readings, a spot meter is the way to go. She doesn't do theater work any more and I never used it much myself, so it's for sale. I have a Zone VI leather holster for it, and stuck a fresh 6v battery in (same one the big 6x7 camera uses); it works fine but would be pricier than the Spotmeter V.
Click to expand...
Theater? Stage/costume/scene change shots. Ah the memories. A witty cast who want to go out and party and are taking it out on the photographers. A director who knows what he wants and owns a genuine Nikon (and has a foaming fit when you tweak the lighting) Working in a dark balcony. Running around with an incident meter and trying to yell back to the boss over the catcalls (Spotmeter? Naw, that's what flunkies are for: "get a reflected reading off that chick in the shadow, the one giving you the finger"). And how can you ever forget those red hot flash bulbs the size of 200 watt light bulbs (guess what happens when you screw one in while you're holding down the test button. You get to drive the bosses new corvette! and sit with him in the ER til morning)
Ideal application for a spotmeter... and brass knuckles.
 
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If you can`t use an incident, any spot will be far to difficult.

With reflected reading, you need to know the reflectance of an object metered. If it is not a middle grey, you will need to compensate or the pics will be over or underexposed.

With incident, all you really need wory about is keeping the meter in the same light as the subject. You need not be standing next to the subject. Sun is the same on both sides of the street. With a little experience. you may want to overexpose coal piles by 1/2 stop and underexpose snow a tad, but that is about it.

A spot requires experience to know ahead of time how to adjust any reading you take. Or you can average the darkest and light readings in the scene.

I traded the Spotmeter V for a Pentax Digital Spotmeter. I feel it is a much beter meter and much easier to take with you.
 
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This Pentax product has certainly stood the test of time. Anything that helps the photographer get a better handle on the light is probably a good investment.

-g
 
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