Which is better with a f1.4 lens and 400 ISO?

kshapero

kshapero

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Which is better with a f1.4 lens and 400 ISO in a low light situation?

1. wide open at f1.4, 1/15 second set at 400 ISO
2 f2.0, 1/15 second pushed to 800 ISO
3. wide open at f1.4, 1/30 second pushed to 800 ISO
4. wide open at f1.4, 1/8 second pulled to 200 ISO
5 f2.0, 1/8 second at 400 ISO
6. f2.8, 1/8 second pushed to 800 ISO
 
1/8 second at f2, shoot the film at 400, no pushing. Why these settings? Virtually all f1.4 lenses are a lot sharper at f2 than at 1.4. Pushing film increases contrast and grain, so best quality is at normal speed.
 
Better for what?

I start with an opposite approach - I think of how I wish something would look, an idea in my mind's eye, then I adjust the camera to get something on film, hoping that it corresponds with my idea.

Each of those settings is a different idea.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
1/8 second at f2, shoot the film at 400, no pushing. Why these settings? Virtually all f1.4 lenses are a lot sharper at f2 than at 1.4. Pushing film increases contrast and grain, so best quality is at normal speed.
Click to expand...
Good point, so then why get a lens as fast as 1.4?
 
There is no "best". It depends on the subject and the situation. How are you at holding steady? Will the subject be too contrasty if you push the film?
 
- Hand-held, if the film is easily pushable (for example BW400CN is not): 3.)
- if you can brace against something, or have a chance to shoot 3 shots for bracketing: 1.).

Roland.
 
The best way to learn breathing techniques, proper stance, etc. is to take a couse in pistol shooting. Everytime you go in a grocery or drugstore with one of those take-your-blood-pressure machines DO IT! See just how low you can get it.
 
It depends... is getting the best possible negative even if it means blowing through a whole roll to get one shot without motion blur on your part or the subjects...then lower your shutter speed, don't push and hope.

If I'm shooting low light and I MUST get a shot regardless of the best possibly tonality etc... set the aperture you want to get the look you want... set the shutterspeed to the slowest possible that GUARANTEES no motion blur (at least 1/focal lenght or faster depending on subject) then shoot away and forget about exposure... seriously...

develop in Rodinal 1:200 stand development for a couple hours

They may not be the best negatives tonal range wise... but you'd be surprised how well it works

This works really well in REALLY low light with rapidly changing lighting situations... like +/-5 stops every couple seconds (concerts with lots of lighting effects etc)
 
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mfogiel said:
Look up this old experiment of mine:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41726&highlight=handholding+bessa

The general rule is, that if you are smart, you can get critical sharpness at half the focal length equivalent in speed, so for a 50mm it would be 1/30th, BTW develop in Diafine, and you can expose at EI 1250, even 1600
Click to expand...

The corollary to that theorem is that if your age >50, the critical sharpness is attained AT the focal length equivalent in speed (rounding upwards). So for a 60 year old photog (like me), using a 50mm lens, it would be 1/60.

If I'd just had an espresso, add another click to 1/125! ;)
 
Al Kaplan said:
The best way to learn breathing techniques, proper stance, etc. is to take a couse in pistol shooting. Everytime you go in a grocery or drugstore with one of those take-your-blood-pressure machines DO IT! See just how low you can get it.
Click to expand...

Al, are you suggesting we take pistol training at our grocery store while having our blood pressure checked? THAT can't be good! ;)
 
I'd go for the "third" choice just to be safe with a 50mm lens, but if you're really good at staying steady + good breathing technique, the "first" choice is best then ;-)
 
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