jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
Rolleinar 2 with bay I just arrived... and now I know 3.5 C does not have bay I, Tessar was misleading. Nevertheless 15mins and some cardboard made it fit.
Wayno
Well-known
Aha, so it is bay 2. I was pretty sure that you're camera would originally have been fitted with a Planar or Xenotar. It sounds like you've used a bit of ingenuity to make the bay 1 Rolleinar fit.
MISH
Well-known
my rollinar set #1 bay 1 does not have one that is thicker than the other both are the same ...did they ever come from Rollei like this or did someone put two of the taking filters together (it did come in a nice Rollie case)
Thomas78
Well-known
There are two different versions available.
The older version consist of two rolleinar, one for each lens and a "rolleiparkeil" (a prism) for parallax compensation, so there are three pieces.
The more modern version has a rolleinar for the taking lens and a combination of the prism and a rolleinar in one piece, the "Heidosmat-Rolleinar" for the viewing lens.
The older version consist of two rolleinar, one for each lens and a "rolleiparkeil" (a prism) for parallax compensation, so there are three pieces.
The more modern version has a rolleinar for the taking lens and a combination of the prism and a rolleinar in one piece, the "Heidosmat-Rolleinar" for the viewing lens.
froyd
Mentor
According to the Rolleinar DOF char, at 19 3/4" it seems like I would need f11 to have 3" focus zone (enough fot tip of the nose to back of eye socket). Are all those gorgeous rolleinar portraits I see on the web really shot at f11 of greater?
Costo Kim
Established
Spavinaw
Well-known
For those using Rolleinars or similar devices, heed Wayno's words, "What you see on the ground glass is not exactly what you get on film". I was doing a product shot with colored paper background. Everything looked good in the finder when I took the shot, but when the film was developed I found that the taking lens lens was looking slightly above the background paper. Bummer as it was a slide. Remember this, parallax is only corrected at the point of focus. This is true with any parallax correcting finder, not just TLR's. However, there is a cure for this. A Paramender or similar device is a short pole that mounts between a TLR and a tripod. The length of the pole can be changed a distance just equal to the distance between the centers of the taking lens and viewing lens. First compose the picture with the camera in the lower position. Then raise the camera to the upper position. Now the taking lens is exactly where the viewing lens was, and it will take exactly what the viewing lens saw!
Towermax
Member
I just got an interesting Bay 1 set on eBay--there's a Rolleiparkeil and two Carl Zeiss Jena Proxar 1. I'm guessing the Zeiss Jena Proxars will be fairly decent, though probably not up to Rollei standards.
Also included were two Bay 1 Rollei Dutos, 0 and 1. I seem to recall that the Duto is some kind of soft focus filter? Do they perform well? How are they best used?
Also included were two Bay 1 Rollei Dutos, 0 and 1. I seem to recall that the Duto is some kind of soft focus filter? Do they perform well? How are they best used?
ki_
Member
How to line up prismas of the Rolleinars?
How to line up prismas of the Rolleinars?
That sounds very interesting, but how do I line up the prismas? There is no bayonet mount on them (I own the two part Rolleinar 1 and the three part Rolleinar 2 both RII).
Are there any adapters? Or can you replace the front ring of the parkeil/rolleinar?
How to line up prismas of the Rolleinars?
That sounds very interesting, but how do I line up the prismas? There is no bayonet mount on them (I own the two part Rolleinar 1 and the three part Rolleinar 2 both RII).
Are there any adapters? Or can you replace the front ring of the parkeil/rolleinar?
JPD
Retina and Rollei user
Carl Zeiss made them for Rollei, and the quality is excellent.
The Duto filters (Invented by the hungarian photographer Jenö Dulovitz and marketed with his business partner Mikos Toth (DUlovitz-TOth)) are indeed soft filters. The softening effect depends on the aperture, and work best at 3,5 - 5,6.
Duto 1 is the stronger one. They were later called Rolleisoft. Very good for portraits, romantic landscapes and still lifes.
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Vics
Mentor
Vics
Mentor
That's the way mine are, too.
Vics
Mentor
Thanks a lot for that post, Thomas78! That completely clears up my confusion about my Bay1 set. I have two Rolleinar 1, two 2, a Rolleiparkiel and the more modern pair for the Rolleinar 3. I guess the rolleiparkiel is for use with both 1 and 2?
raid
Dad Photographer
This makes sense; I have I,II,III each in two pieces
JPD
Retina and Rollei user
No, the Rolleiparkeil 1 is for the Proxar/Rolleipar/Rolleinar 1 and Rolleiparkeil 2 is for the 2.
The "keil" (wedge-prism) gives a little different perspective in the two versions.
(Rolleipar, the "par" is german for "pair", because it comes in sets of two, one for the viewing and one for the taking lens. The Rolleiparkeil is then the third accessory).
The advantage with the three-piece set is that the two plain close-up lenses can be used together when using the plate adapter. Then you can focus directly on the film plane. (You can also use a Paramender, like the one for the Mamiya TLR's, and use the close-up lenses on the viewing lens first for focusing, and then put them on the taking lens and move the camera up with the Paramender).
Vics
Mentor
joachim
Convicted Ektachome user
Not quite. Pair is "Paar" in German (double a). As you wrote "Keil" is for wedge, so this is a "Keil" which compensates the parallax ("Parallaxe" in German).
I have a three piece set (+1) and a two piece set (+2). I prefer the two piece since that is coated, while my three piece set is not. In particular for the finder contrast that matters (4 uncoated glass-air surfaces).
JPD
Retina and Rollei user
Thank you for correcting me! I thought "Par" was a contraction from "Paar", but you're right. I also forgot that the Rolleipar was the early name for the Rolleiparkeil and NOT for the Rolleinar.
marduk
Well-known
Just in case: I'm selling a bay I Rolleinar 1 (two lens coated version). I just doesn't suit my style of photography. I'm keeping though a bay II Rolleinar 2 which I'll try to use more.
ZeissFan
Mentor
I wouldn't be too concerned with quality. This wasn't the usual third-party knockoff crap. Remember, the Rolleiflex was used by both amateurs and pros, often in studios, and for the pros, they couldn't afford to put something on their lens that would degrade the image.