Kumachrome
Established
I think I'm finally going to do it. I've been lusting after the utilitarian and industrial design of the R3M and think it's just time to get one.
My only question regarding the camera is for its reliability in the long run. I'm sure they're great for the first month, but to those who currently use them, or had one, did you encounter major issues? Anything more than the rangefinder going a out of alignment, which I'm sure is a simple enough fix. I'd like this camera to be something I can take everywhere with me. From the local shops, or being out taking pictures while it's 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-1.11 Celsius) out. I'm not jumping out of a plane with my cameras, so being able to withstand a war zone isn't necessarily for me.
Thanks for any responses! I'll post a photo of my camera once I order receive it
My only question regarding the camera is for its reliability in the long run. I'm sure they're great for the first month, but to those who currently use them, or had one, did you encounter major issues? Anything more than the rangefinder going a out of alignment, which I'm sure is a simple enough fix. I'd like this camera to be something I can take everywhere with me. From the local shops, or being out taking pictures while it's 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-1.11 Celsius) out. I'm not jumping out of a plane with my cameras, so being able to withstand a war zone isn't necessarily for me.
Thanks for any responses! I'll post a photo of my camera once I order receive it
Hogarth Ferguson
Well-known
I have used a number of Bessa cameras from friends, and they seem likely well built machines. The friend's I have borrowed them from, from what I've asked, haven't had to do anything in terms of fixes.
I'm actually thinking of pulling the trigger on a Bessa, too, but the Bessa T.
I'm actually thinking of pulling the trigger on a Bessa, too, but the Bessa T.
Takkun
Ian M.
I've had the R3a for almost 10 years now, and it was used then. As i'm sure you know, same camera essentially save for AE/electronic shutter/'suggested-versus-selected' meter readout (which I'm on the fence about: I prefer match-needle but like seeing my shutter speed).
With some metal in it, it feels a little more solid than Cosina's SLRs (Nikon FM-10); a bit more like the old Canon Elan 7. The rest is plastic, and mine has taken a few dents and abrasions that don't look as graceful as a Leica, but it survives. The back, film advance, and rewind aren't nearly as smooth as some vintage camera, but they work fine. Personally, I love the folding rewind crank: looks like an M3, functions like an M4.
Metering pattern is a little weird, a sort of very oblong, bottom-center-weighted. See this thread.
Shutter is loud, but who cares? The recoil is very soft and easy to handhold at slow speeds. The release is convex, and I find it binds a bit with a soft release—increased leverage=more play, but naked, it's basically its own soft release.
The RF/VF are what shines on the R3 though. 1x magnification and very bright, much more so than my M5. Despite being left-handed, I'm right-eye dominant and love shooting both eyes open. The patch appears to be a bit bigger than the M5 and crisper around the edges, though it flares some, and the RF window is in prime position to be covered by fingers. The baseline is long enough, and the VF big enough, that shooting a 90 isn't a problem. Want to go wide? go with accessory finders.
Framelines have parallax compensation, just like the Ms (and a few old compacts, like the Yashica Electro). To my eyes, the 40 frame line is a bit hard to see without looking around the finder, but I shoot with a 35 anyway and just guess at it. No auto selection, which means sometimes forgetting to switch them when changing lenses, but they're marked so you know what youre seeing.
Mine has come out of adjustment a couple of times, and fixing that isn't always for the faint of heart. The flash shoe needs to come off, and then you're faced with two VERY tiny screws and one hard to reach bigger one, deep in the body. My first attempt resulted in me stripping, and then unscrewing the vertical screw entirely and an expensive trip to Stephen Gandy.
There's some great accessories to be found, like the Leicavit-style Rapidwinder, a right-hand grip (that doesn't replace a bottom plate!), and VF eyepieces.
New, I felt these were a bit pricey for the build quality, but what you're paying for is that beautiful finder. With the new MP at almost $5k, it's a great bargain to be able to shoot Leica glass and a shame they were discontinued. Stephen still is the go-to for fixing them.
I'm realizing that little of this answered your question. Yes, they're reliable. Plastic cameras bounce, rather than crush. Very little electronics to go out of whack; maybe your batteries won't like cold, but the mechanical shutter won't mind. Metal blade shutters seem to stay in sync a lot better than cloth ones. The RF alignment always makes me nervous that it might go cattywompus on a trip, but that's inherent of all RFs. I've had mine for 10 years and its needed adjustment only twice. All the mechanicals dealing with film have been perfect.
Best of all, it's very light, so less energy when it does inevitably impact something.
As a personal testimonial: It's my go-to for hiking, clad only in a Domke wrap, including a year of weekly trips to Snoqualmie National Forest and Olympic NP—not walks in the park!
With some metal in it, it feels a little more solid than Cosina's SLRs (Nikon FM-10); a bit more like the old Canon Elan 7. The rest is plastic, and mine has taken a few dents and abrasions that don't look as graceful as a Leica, but it survives. The back, film advance, and rewind aren't nearly as smooth as some vintage camera, but they work fine. Personally, I love the folding rewind crank: looks like an M3, functions like an M4.
Metering pattern is a little weird, a sort of very oblong, bottom-center-weighted. See this thread.
Shutter is loud, but who cares? The recoil is very soft and easy to handhold at slow speeds. The release is convex, and I find it binds a bit with a soft release—increased leverage=more play, but naked, it's basically its own soft release.
The RF/VF are what shines on the R3 though. 1x magnification and very bright, much more so than my M5. Despite being left-handed, I'm right-eye dominant and love shooting both eyes open. The patch appears to be a bit bigger than the M5 and crisper around the edges, though it flares some, and the RF window is in prime position to be covered by fingers. The baseline is long enough, and the VF big enough, that shooting a 90 isn't a problem. Want to go wide? go with accessory finders.
Framelines have parallax compensation, just like the Ms (and a few old compacts, like the Yashica Electro). To my eyes, the 40 frame line is a bit hard to see without looking around the finder, but I shoot with a 35 anyway and just guess at it. No auto selection, which means sometimes forgetting to switch them when changing lenses, but they're marked so you know what youre seeing.
Mine has come out of adjustment a couple of times, and fixing that isn't always for the faint of heart. The flash shoe needs to come off, and then you're faced with two VERY tiny screws and one hard to reach bigger one, deep in the body. My first attempt resulted in me stripping, and then unscrewing the vertical screw entirely and an expensive trip to Stephen Gandy.
There's some great accessories to be found, like the Leicavit-style Rapidwinder, a right-hand grip (that doesn't replace a bottom plate!), and VF eyepieces.
New, I felt these were a bit pricey for the build quality, but what you're paying for is that beautiful finder. With the new MP at almost $5k, it's a great bargain to be able to shoot Leica glass and a shame they were discontinued. Stephen still is the go-to for fixing them.
I'm realizing that little of this answered your question. Yes, they're reliable. Plastic cameras bounce, rather than crush. Very little electronics to go out of whack; maybe your batteries won't like cold, but the mechanical shutter won't mind. Metal blade shutters seem to stay in sync a lot better than cloth ones. The RF alignment always makes me nervous that it might go cattywompus on a trip, but that's inherent of all RFs. I've had mine for 10 years and its needed adjustment only twice. All the mechanicals dealing with film have been perfect.
Best of all, it's very light, so less energy when it does inevitably impact something.
As a personal testimonial: It's my go-to for hiking, clad only in a Domke wrap, including a year of weekly trips to Snoqualmie National Forest and Olympic NP—not walks in the park!
nukecoke
⚛Yashica
I've owned an R for more than two years. Not a long time but I have traveled and hiked a lot with it, in mountains, hills, swamps, forests and urban areas across continents. I used to bring it to the field everyday when I was working as an ecologist. I don't babysit it but I do take care of it reasonably and it has not failed me.
I've used my R in prolonged cold environment (-5 to -10 Celsius), and haven't encountered no problem. The Copal shutter is more capable in cold environment when compared to Leica-style focal plane shutters (especially cloth ones), which require good lubrication to avoid uneven exposures. (KIEV would be another winter camera choice for me).
I bought mine 2nd-handed. The camera came with misaligned RF and loose frame counter window, both problems were fixed at home by the help of tutorials online. I have never had the RF misaligned again by bumping and hitting it on things, it has been staying in place since it was fixed the first and only time.
Enjoy your camera!
I've used my R in prolonged cold environment (-5 to -10 Celsius), and haven't encountered no problem. The Copal shutter is more capable in cold environment when compared to Leica-style focal plane shutters (especially cloth ones), which require good lubrication to avoid uneven exposures. (KIEV would be another winter camera choice for me).
I bought mine 2nd-handed. The camera came with misaligned RF and loose frame counter window, both problems were fixed at home by the help of tutorials online. I have never had the RF misaligned again by bumping and hitting it on things, it has been staying in place since it was fixed the first and only time.
Enjoy your camera!
Kumachrome
Established
Thanks for the responses! I'm definitely sold on the Bessas! Now...a Gray R3A or an R3m....the tough question
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
-1.11 C is fine temperature for this gear. Make sure lens has fresh lube in the rings and helicoids.
I have my R2M in provided half-case to avoid exterior worn out. And I added Nikon FM viewfinder rubber oculare.
Camera finally doesn't flip up after adding of it. Huge and heavy lens also helps with it and camera feels like stuffed glove now, XL size.
If purchased new, they should last long time. My R was purchased used, but mint and used as everyday, everywhere, worn out outside badly and visibly inside on the shutter blades. But I sold it still working.