contaxNewb
Newbie
Hi,
New member, newbie to RF photography, but I recently acquired a '36, Contax II with a Carl Zeiss Jena, Sonnar 1:2, f=5cm lens from the original family owners. Cool provenance, was used in the War, and I am excited to give it a try.
Any advice on where to even start my education with it? I've been reading old threads, and getting some insights there, but having been through this same steep learning curve with vintage bicycles a while back, I figured I'd ask experts on best way to get at least partially up to speed with?
Any thoughts or guidance would be sincerely appreciated!! Thanks!
New member, newbie to RF photography, but I recently acquired a '36, Contax II with a Carl Zeiss Jena, Sonnar 1:2, f=5cm lens from the original family owners. Cool provenance, was used in the War, and I am excited to give it a try.
Any advice on where to even start my education with it? I've been reading old threads, and getting some insights there, but having been through this same steep learning curve with vintage bicycles a while back, I figured I'd ask experts on best way to get at least partially up to speed with?
Any thoughts or guidance would be sincerely appreciated!! Thanks!
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
View Range
Well-known
Have you verified that the shutter speeds are correct and that the rangefinder focuses properly?
jim_jm
Well-known
Welcome to RFF!
If you haven't seen it, Cameraquest has a good write-up here: https://cameraquest.com/zconrf2.htm .
Beautifully made and designed cameras, used by many professionals of the time and in direct competition with Leica. Robert Capa took the famous D-Day landing shots with his Contax bodies (not sure, either II or III). High point of the brand was the quality of the Zeiss lenses. Although they look similar, the post-War IIA and IIIA Models are smaller and have redesigned shutters. They retained the same lens mount, although there are some wide-angle lenses (like the 35mm Jupiter) that will not fit the post-War bodies.
These days, Zeiss lenses in Contax mount can be harder to find, and the wider lenses can get expensive. Nikon S-mount lenses 35mm or wider will work fine on a Contax, as will many Russian lenses, and Cosina recently discontinued making some excellent modern lenses https://cameraquest.com/NRFVoigt.htm .
If the camera has not been used or serviced in a long time, it will probably need some maintenance before being 100% usable. These are like old cars, they don't take well to sitting unused for years. Completely mechanical, no plastic or electronics, so if they have not been damaged or abused, a competent repairperson should be able to resolve any problems. Contax repair is harder to find these days, but here is one I am aware of: http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_contaxII.shtml
Good Luck!
If you haven't seen it, Cameraquest has a good write-up here: https://cameraquest.com/zconrf2.htm .
Beautifully made and designed cameras, used by many professionals of the time and in direct competition with Leica. Robert Capa took the famous D-Day landing shots with his Contax bodies (not sure, either II or III). High point of the brand was the quality of the Zeiss lenses. Although they look similar, the post-War IIA and IIIA Models are smaller and have redesigned shutters. They retained the same lens mount, although there are some wide-angle lenses (like the 35mm Jupiter) that will not fit the post-War bodies.
These days, Zeiss lenses in Contax mount can be harder to find, and the wider lenses can get expensive. Nikon S-mount lenses 35mm or wider will work fine on a Contax, as will many Russian lenses, and Cosina recently discontinued making some excellent modern lenses https://cameraquest.com/NRFVoigt.htm .
If the camera has not been used or serviced in a long time, it will probably need some maintenance before being 100% usable. These are like old cars, they don't take well to sitting unused for years. Completely mechanical, no plastic or electronics, so if they have not been damaged or abused, a competent repairperson should be able to resolve any problems. Contax repair is harder to find these days, but here is one I am aware of: http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_contaxII.shtml
Good Luck!
rajmohan-fotograf
rajmohan
Welcome to RFF and to RF photography!
The pre-war Contax II is a brilliant camera with some great features. If it has not been exercised periodically by the previous owners, it may well need some attention before it is fully functional. On the other hand, when I received mine, I was so excited that I dry-fired it a few times to verify that the shutter speeds sounded reasonable, popped in a roll and shot it. It still works like a charm; sure, the viewfinder is small and a little dim compared to later cameras, but that does not detract from the pleasure of using this fine instrument.
In addition to the manual on Butkus' site, there are some videos here that might help you get started. Best of luck!
The pre-war Contax II is a brilliant camera with some great features. If it has not been exercised periodically by the previous owners, it may well need some attention before it is fully functional. On the other hand, when I received mine, I was so excited that I dry-fired it a few times to verify that the shutter speeds sounded reasonable, popped in a roll and shot it. It still works like a charm; sure, the viewfinder is small and a little dim compared to later cameras, but that does not detract from the pleasure of using this fine instrument.
In addition to the manual on Butkus' site, there are some videos here that might help you get started. Best of luck!
contaxNewb
Newbie
Wow, thank you all so much for the quick advice and guidance. I don't yet know the full condition of the camera and functionality, as again, this is whole new photography ball game for me! From what I can tell, all seems to work well and fine, aside from maybe a little shutter sticking at times. The previous owner, yes, said that it has sat untouched for about 10 years, but before then, he said it was working flawlessly, so I am hopeful.
I did already make some inquires into CLA options, I have some leads, though I am finding many people don't service these fully (stopping with IIa models as oldest). My plan right now is to continue reading up on it, make an attempt to take a role of photos with it and see how that goes, while at the same time trying to lock down a proper place/person to service it, and then proceed with that.
Is there risk that even trying out a role to test it as-is might do more harm? If so, I won't risk it, though I'm eager to use it of course!
I did already make some inquires into CLA options, I have some leads, though I am finding many people don't service these fully (stopping with IIa models as oldest). My plan right now is to continue reading up on it, make an attempt to take a role of photos with it and see how that goes, while at the same time trying to lock down a proper place/person to service it, and then proceed with that.
Is there risk that even trying out a role to test it as-is might do more harm? If so, I won't risk it, though I'm eager to use it of course!
Larry Cloetta
Mentor
Regarding CLAs, if you need one, Henry Scherer is considered to be the best, but expensive. The expense is probably beside the point for most people since he has about a 7 year wait list these days.
Though I have never used him, many have reported favorably on Contax repairs performed by Oleg, here: https://okvintagecamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=144
His pricing is hard to beat.
Congrats on the new, old Camera. They’re lovely, and nice to find one with a history like that.
Though I have never used him, many have reported favorably on Contax repairs performed by Oleg, here: https://okvintagecamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=144
His pricing is hard to beat.
Congrats on the new, old Camera. They’re lovely, and nice to find one with a history like that.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
Hayata camera here in Japan does a great job for the Contax 
probably 2 months waiting time at the most
theres somebody in Ukraine whos also competent but no personal experience from my side
probably 2 months waiting time at the most
theres somebody in Ukraine whos also competent but no personal experience from my side
shawn
Mentor
You might check out:
http://zackscamerarepair.com/
Who is relatively local to me. Small shop loaded with cameras, parts and so on. From talking with him it sounds like he repairs just about anything and will fabricate parts as needed too. Haven't used him for repair yet but I purchased a Vito III from him that he CLA'd and it is flawless.
Could also try Mark at [email protected]. He does IIas but I don't know about earlier cameras.
My IIa was said to have been CLA's from Forster camera in Salt Lake City. Camera is in great shape but it was missing two screws on the top cover under the shutter speed dial which was causing shutter speed problems @1/250 of a second until I figure that out. The loose top cover was preventing the shutter lock to engage so there was variability in the shutter speed cams. After I replaced the screws the shutter fires fine now.
Shawn
http://zackscamerarepair.com/
Who is relatively local to me. Small shop loaded with cameras, parts and so on. From talking with him it sounds like he repairs just about anything and will fabricate parts as needed too. Haven't used him for repair yet but I purchased a Vito III from him that he CLA'd and it is flawless.
Could also try Mark at [email protected]. He does IIas but I don't know about earlier cameras.
My IIa was said to have been CLA's from Forster camera in Salt Lake City. Camera is in great shape but it was missing two screws on the top cover under the shutter speed dial which was causing shutter speed problems @1/250 of a second until I figure that out. The loose top cover was preventing the shutter lock to engage so there was variability in the shutter speed cams. After I replaced the screws the shutter fires fine now.
Shawn
its a easy, intuitive camera to shoot.
Just start shooting and find your questions that way,
it won't take long to find the answers either.
Just remember to move the camera helical and the external lens helicals to infinity before you mount or remove external mount lenses.
Stephen
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
In your shoes I would download and print the instruction manual; the original is 3½" x 5". Then read it once or twice and then read it again with the camera in your hands and getting the feel of it. Stiffness winding on and so on would suggest a service to me.
Then put a film in it and see how it works in practice but you'll need a meter to get the exposure right and bracketing is a good idea with an old camera as that way you'll get an idea of how good it can be to encourage you.
Contax cameras are very different; the long RF base means a weird hold needed, changing lenses takes some getting use to (see the manual) and the higher speed(s) may not be accurate.
If the film turns out OK then start thinking about servicing because how well or badly it's been stored can affect it. Some say it's best to wait for the notorious shutter ribbons to fail before doing anything...
Regards, David
PS There's a good guide to it published years ago by the Focal press, easy to spot on ebay and so on as it has a very obvious red cover. And there's Freytag's book from the 1930's.
In your shoes I would download and print the instruction manual; the original is 3½" x 5". Then read it once or twice and then read it again with the camera in your hands and getting the feel of it. Stiffness winding on and so on would suggest a service to me.
Then put a film in it and see how it works in practice but you'll need a meter to get the exposure right and bracketing is a good idea with an old camera as that way you'll get an idea of how good it can be to encourage you.
Contax cameras are very different; the long RF base means a weird hold needed, changing lenses takes some getting use to (see the manual) and the higher speed(s) may not be accurate.
If the film turns out OK then start thinking about servicing because how well or badly it's been stored can affect it. Some say it's best to wait for the notorious shutter ribbons to fail before doing anything...
Regards, David
PS There's a good guide to it published years ago by the Focal press, easy to spot on ebay and so on as it has a very obvious red cover. And there's Freytag's book from the 1930's.
Last edited:
mcfingon
Western Australia
They are a beautifully designed and made camera. I have a ‘37 Contax II, also with the Sonnar 50/2. Sadly my lens has a damaged rear element coating, which spoils it. But be aware you can use the post-war Sonnar 50/2 lens if you have a similar problem.
steveyork
Well-known
Not a main camera but a nice change of pace.
In some respects, still superior to what came afterwards -- e.g., the long rangefinder base, the big, wide rangefinder patch -- but really a Leica M mount or even a Nikon will feel more modern, and user friendly. Therefore, don't try to compare. I tend to use the Contax when I want a vintage piece, pretending to be Robert Capa storming the beaches at Normandy, instead of walking my dog in suburban safety.
Do try to get a pre-war Sonnar. The quality will surprise.
Have fun. Variety is good.
PS -- I acquired my Contax II from the son of the original owner. Given to him in the 1930's by his parents, before he travelled across the country, it showed little wear, almost true mint, but it stayed in his possession all those years until he passed away in his in his ninth decade in NYC. So yes, very cool to know the background of these old cameras. They've seen a lot.
In some respects, still superior to what came afterwards -- e.g., the long rangefinder base, the big, wide rangefinder patch -- but really a Leica M mount or even a Nikon will feel more modern, and user friendly. Therefore, don't try to compare. I tend to use the Contax when I want a vintage piece, pretending to be Robert Capa storming the beaches at Normandy, instead of walking my dog in suburban safety.
Do try to get a pre-war Sonnar. The quality will surprise.
Have fun. Variety is good.
PS -- I acquired my Contax II from the son of the original owner. Given to him in the 1930's by his parents, before he travelled across the country, it showed little wear, almost true mint, but it stayed in his possession all those years until he passed away in his in his ninth decade in NYC. So yes, very cool to know the background of these old cameras. They've seen a lot.
RObert Budding
D'oh!
Be careful - I scratched the lens of my eyeglasses on the finder of my Contax IIa. That's when I decided that it wasn't a great camera for me, so I sold it and went to a Mamiya 7 II. The Contax was a beautiful gem of a camera, though.
steveyork
Well-known
The old trick there is to use corn plasters. Same with Leicas, Nikons, or any of the those old rangefinders; most of them have that issue. Although DAG sells a more elegant solution for the M3/M2.
steveyork
Well-known
Lots of folks not named Henry work on them.
The Alpa expert Radu Lesaru (USA) fixed a Contax II for me, as did Ed Trzoska (UK), though I understand Eddy is limiting his workload. Others too. Just start asking around.
And then lots of people do there own repairs. Contrary to what that guy in California says, it's not rocket science, and you don't need a magic wand.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
I second this. I successfully fixed mine through the help of the people here.
like I mentioned, Hayata Camera here in Japan does a great job
peterm1
Mentor
Make sure you wind on / cock the shutter before changing shutter speeds. Trust me on this one, you do not wish to do the opposite! Some claim it does not matter with the Contax II but that is not my experience.
contaxNewb
Newbie
Thanks for these leads and to everyone for the supportive encouragement. I bought a roll of BW film, and have been experimenting with shots, and so far, all the shutter speeds seem to be fine-- maybe the 1250 isn't though? But that seems a common issue?
I won't know for sure how well (or IF!) anything turns out until I get them developed. Will report back. So far, so good though.
Question-- so looking through the viewfinder it seems a little less clear than I would like-- is that dirt? Damage? Fungus? Age? Just wondering and if a cleaning would even address this? Sorry! As I said in my first post-- I am totally new at this! Thanks!
richardHaw
junk scavenger
dirt or desilvering
check my PM
check my PM