Back to basics D76 & TriX

Tom, I've had S 208 Sweden 1992 up among my browser tabs since the day this thread started and I was browsing through the Flickr group you'd posted. Just an amazing photo (I commented there on its evocation of Eisenstein...)

For those who haven't seen it, check it out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rapidwinder/2090828398/in/set-72157625706534323/

the downside is, I never got any further in the collection....

best,
Vince P
 
Vince, it was in June, bright sunshine and my sister and brother-in-law lived in a house right by the square. Big balcony - looked like something you issued political proclamations from!
I use that neg to test enlarger alignments. If all the cobble stones are straight - the enlarger is aligned! For some reason I have never printed it though!
Tom
 
i've been on the D76 regimen for several months now. partly as a paper negative developer, rather than the Dektol, the D76 develops the paper negative (5x7) much much slower than Dektol, which is an advantage, instead of a near black negative in 45seconds, i can go 4 minutes with a slowly forming image using D76.
My last 35mm TrX roll at ISO 100 in D76, D76 for 1min, water for 4min,..1,4,1,4,1,4...got some bright highlights, not blown, and some deeper blacks with deeper gray details, looking for contrastier prints
 
Rodney, interesting using the D76 as a paper developer. I have used Dektol for film on occasion - gives new meaning to grain!
The water bath process is quite effective. It does tame the contrast considerably. My only problem with that is that you really have to anchor the tanks somehow. Way to easy to knock one over in the dark! Been there - done that.

Once we start having a bit of more consistent sun - I will try it again with D76 - summer is supposed to come one day. At the moment it is strictly 1/250 and f5.6 and excessive contrast is not a problem.
 
Thanks Tom for all your online help. You don't know that (in my case) but we all find it useful and really important to are 'work.' I used D-76 with Trix 40 years ago, but not since. I, like you, have been through some of my old negatives and I like them. You are right 'basics' is the way to go. I hope you start to feel better. You are are a year younger than I am, and I have had 35 years of the big 'C' so keep your head up.
 
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Like many others. I also used to develop Tri-X exclusively in D-76. After I discovered Rodinal, it became my developer of choice. However, whenever I look at those negatives developed in D-76 ( at least 20 years old now ), I find that I love the look. I just may try some of the new emulsion Tri-X in D-76 and see how much I like the results.

And Tom, best wishes for a speedy recovery. You're an inspiration to many of us, as well as someone who has given excellent advice to people like me.

All the best,
Jan
 
Just did another run with Arista Premium 400 and XX/XXX. I usually rate my XX and XXX @ 320 (less chance of a mix-up and the 1/3 stop +/- does not seem to affect densitiy and tones. Both the XXX and the Arista are fresh, new films. The D76 worked well, compared it to some older stuff from Australia and Paris (1986/87 for OZ and 1982/83 for Paris). Still looks pretty much the same. In the spirit of this - I ordered 500 rolls of Arista Premium 400 from Freestyle to continue this "trend". Well, I did order 1000 rolls - but splitting off 500 rolls to fellow shooters - and I will probably turn them on to D76 too!
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rapidwinder/5396750218/" title="I shoot digital... not sure what's going on ... Tom will have to explain to me by T&T and Mr B, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/5396750218_1035911991_o.jpg" width="4000" height="3000" alt="I shoot digital... not sure what's going on ... Tom will have to explain to me" /></a>
 
I think this is what Tom wanted to show us. I'm impressed!

5396750218_b5a370e5ee.jpg


Thanks Chris for the moving of the picture. One day I will figure out how to do it and not end up with a postage stamp sized (or none as in this case!).
 
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Tom, I'm using ID-11 at the moment, which I understand is basically the same as D-76. I'm interested in using it at 1+3, for economy but also for the reputed extra sharpness. Have you tried this with D-76 and how did you find it?
 
You can see that he is smiling behind that camera, just sooo proud of himself. :D Good going Tom!!!
 
Chris, I have used D76 (and ID11) as a 1:3 (usually for 15-16 min). The sharpness is good, less mushy than the stock or 1:1 - but I find the grain is accentuated somewhat and also the contrast can drop. At the moment I am using up some "envelopes" with D76 1 gallon, but later I will start mixing my own again. This allows you some flexibility in reducing the Sodium Sulphite and get a bit more accutance. You have to experiment with times and Sod. Sulphite volume to balance it. I have found that with 75gr SS/liter and about 1,5 minutes increased time - it works. It is actually a cheap developer to mix if you buy bulk chemistry.
 
rover said:
You can see that he is smiling behind that camera, just sooo proud of himself. :D Good going Tom!!!
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I had just explained to Tuulikki that I wanted to keep this pile of film on the table for some time. I was smiling at her reaction! All right - who needs a vegetable crisper in the fridge - it will comfortably hold about 250 rolls, unboxed and the other drawer holds about 200 rolls now. The rest is crammed into the freezer ( with emphasis on the crammed part - better get cracking and shooting some more!).
 
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Tom A said:
I had just explained to Tuulikki that I wanted to keep this pile of film on the table for some time. I was smiling at her reaction! All right - who needs a vegetable crisper in the fridge - it will comfortably hold about 250 rolls, unboxed and the other drawer holds about 200 rolls now. The rest is crammed into the freezer ( with emphasis on the crammed part - better get cracking and shooting some more!).
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...or, better get a separate film only refrigerator/freezer! Looking at that pile of film just makes me smile!
 
I too ordered a good amount of D76 from BH, and will be on the same, 1:1. The lab here is just too crazy now, $13 a roll for dev and mediocre scans, ugh, so since I have a studio already with an extra room, I'll be developing again starting this coming week. Money in the pocket, but more time working, not a horrible tradeoff if you ask me though.
 
Just tried my first D-76 in nearly 20 years. Used it to do one roll of TriX, the D-76H variant, 1:1, 9 minutes at 70 degrees f, and was disappointed. Perhaps not enough agitation - first 30 sec constant and then 10 sec every minute. Seemed mushy to me compared with two-bath D-23. Maybe fine tuning and practice will help.
 
Tom A said:
Chris, I have used D76 (and ID11) as a 1:3 (usually for 15-16 min). The sharpness is good, less mushy than the stock or 1:1 - but I find the grain is accentuated somewhat and also the contrast can drop. At the moment I am using up some "envelopes" with D76 1 gallon, but later I will start mixing my own again. This allows you some flexibility in reducing the Sodium Sulphite and get a bit more accutance. You have to experiment with times and Sod. Sulphite volume to balance it. I have found that with 75gr SS/liter and about 1,5 minutes increased time - it works. It is actually a cheap developer to mix if you buy bulk chemistry.
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Thanks Tom. I did a roll of Arista Premium 400 (Tri-X) last night at 1+3, 17 minutes @ 20c, and yes the contrast was a little less than I like, so I'll give the next roll 20 minutes.. Grain doesn't bother me at all as I only print at 8x10, and I like to see the grain a little as it distinguishes the image from a digital image! I've not seriously looked into home-brew developer as yet - with D-76 at $5.95 a gallon the cost pressure is not an issue yet with my couple of rolls a week.
 
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