Bessa-R check run

farlymac

PF McFarland
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My first chance to test my olive Bessa-R came in September, and I made the most of it by shooting a roll of Ektar 100 which to me is the fussiest stuff I've ever used since the days of reversal film.

Two lenses were used, the VC Color-Skopar 35/2.5, and a Yashica Yashikor 5cm 1:2.8. I have an Elmar 90/4 (39) but an opportunity didn't present itself this time around.

The Color-Skopar is a nice lens, but doesn't seem to have that pop I was looking for. The Yashikor however is a different story. Styled like the later Canon rangefinder lenses (it came on a Yashica YF) with a large focus ring and mostly black body, it performed admirably.

CV Color-Skopar 35/2.5


Late Summer Color by P F McFarland, on Flickr


Empty Shed by P F McFarland, on Flickr


Nice To Meet You by P F McFarland, on Flickr

Yashicor 50/2.8


View From Valhalla by P F McFarland, on Flickr


Next Year Trees by P F McFarland, on Flickr


No More Customers by P F McFarland, on Flickr

You can see all the photos at https://flic.kr/s/aHsmJy96m5

BTW, I had an olive Bessa-T trigger winder for trade in the Classifieds, but no takers after thirty days. Stupid me, I didn't check first to see if the R uses the winders, and it looks a bit weird on my black T.

PF
 
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Very nice shots. I have a Yashicor 50/1.8 and it is also a fine performer. I think the second and third Skopar shots are very crisp and colorful.
 
I hope it works well for you. I'd love to have an olive R. Mine is the generic model, but it has work great for almost ten years. And I use it a lot. One thing that I read when I first got mine is to not force the winder when you are near the last frame. Anyway, I don't know if that is true but I don't do it. I also advance my film very slowly.

EDIT: I find that Colton Allen's tutorial on C-41 scanning to be very helpful. It took some of the mystery out of Ektar 100.

http://www.coltonallen.com/getting-the-most-from-color-negative-film-with-your-epson-flatbed/
 
I hope it works well for you. I'd love to have an olive R. Mine is the generic model, but it has work great for almost ten years. And I use it a lot. One thing that I read when I first got mine is to not force the winder when you are near the last frame. Anyway, I don't know if that is true but I don't do it. I also advance my film very slowly.

EDIT: I find that Colton Allen's tutorial on C-41 scanning to be very helpful. It took some of the mystery out of Ektar 100.

http://www.coltonallen.com/getting-the-most-from-color-negative-film-with-your-epson-flatbed/
Yeah, I've heard that too, but then I'm very careful on winding. I like the metering system, don't have to worry about using collapsible lenses like on my CL. I've got a Summaron 35/3.5 but it needs to be cleaned first.

I get my films developed and scanned commercially, and ask they don't make any corrections so I can better gauge the camera performance. Once I set up my scanner I'll be able to save some money on that part of the expense. So thanks for the link, John, I'd forgotten about that.

PF
 
I had R and all three versions of CV CS 35 2.5.
Lens is best made for color at its price.
Camera is best made if you want to be better than old LTM cameras.

IMHO, from hundreds pics taken with R and CV CS 35 2.5.
 
I had R and all three versions of CV CS 35 2.5.
Lens is best made for color at its price.
Camera is best made if you want to be better than old LTM cameras.

IMHO, from hundreds pics taken with R and CV CS 35 2.5.
I agree, Ko. I think the lens works better in shade conditions than some I've tried, and would probably be best for street instead of landscapes.

PF
 
Very nice shots. I have a Yashicor 50/1.8 and it is also a fine performer. I think the second and third Skopar shots are very crisp and colorful.
I hope to some day get a complete set of Yashikors for my YF which also happens to have a busted shutter.

PF
 
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