Bronica RF??

how is the bronica's viewfinder? easy to see and focus ?- any problem for an eyeglass wearer? is the camera equally as comfortable to hold for taking horizontal pictures?

joanie
 
Hi Joanie -- I'm sure I don't answer for everybody, but my experience is that the 65mm frames are easy to see with glasses, plus a nice bit around the outside of the frames too. Without glasses, I can see more, approximating the coverage of the 45mm lens.

The viewfinder is bright with a crisp spot that, like the Leica's, can be used as a split image spot (using the top/bottom edges) as well as a coincident-image spot. Much better than the fuzzy spot in the Fuji GS645 and most other fixed-lens RFs. There's a very clear illuminated display panel at the left if you want to check the exposure settings.

I think turning any camera 90 degrees is somewhat less comfortable than using it level, and the RF645 is about typical in this regard I think. Not uncomfortable or awkward, but maybe a little less steady. But I do quite like its normally vertical frame orientation...

After shooting mostly 35mm cameras recently (testing those doggone eBay purchases!), it was pleasant last Saturday to be using an Olympus Pen half frame (yeah, another recent purchase!), as it too has a normally vertical framing.

Below: See, Bronica and Pen can both shoot horizontals!
 
My RF is the only camera I have ever used with a vertical finder and I cant say I have ever given it a second thought, but then again I use it for everything, rather than just landscapes which I shoot 75% plus in landscape format.

I will say again for the record: This camera is incredible value. I went the whole hog, buying twow complete cameras and a 45mm. I am just looking for the 135 now. I do not regret it one bit. This is the most instinctive camera I have ever used. I have plyed with Leica Ms and find them 'slippery', but nice. This RF fits me like a glove and the viewfinder is excellent; crystal clear and it is either in focus or not. One of my used bodies has a vertically displaced patch. I bit irritating, but not an issue - it was cheap and is otherwise perfect. I will get it sorted when it goes for a service or if I get the 100 brightlines put in.

BUY IT. Having printed more and more negs I continue to be amazed at the quality of the optics. They are easily on par with the Mamiya 7 according to the prints I have produced. Using the 65mm, shoot at f5.6 to f8 and prepare to be blown away......
 
Camera's Here!
I've loaded Tri-X 320 (220). I've never done this before but I think it's loaded right.
My question is setting the film speed on the back of the camera............
there is a 200 and 400 setting and 2 space in between them. I have it on the 2nd setting, assuming it is 320.
1). what to the 2 steps in between the 200 and 400?
2). what are all of the increments of avail film speed settings?
This is my first "NON DX CODING" adventure here.
btw, my camera (used) did NOT come with a manual.
thanks to anyone who can help me here.
Bill Barber
 
billbarber said:
Camera's Here!
I've loaded Tri-X 320 (220). I've never done this before but I think it's loaded right.
My question is setting the film speed on the back of the camera............
there is a 200 and 400 setting and 2 space in between them. I have it on the 2nd setting, assuming it is 320.
1). what to the 2 steps in between the 200 and 400?
2). what are all of the increments of avail film speed settings?
This is my first "NON DX CODING" adventure here.
btw, my camera (used) did NOT come with a manual.
thanks to anyone who can help me here.
Bill Barber


Bill,

increments go 200, 260, 320, 400, so one down from 400 (1/3 stop slower is 320).

I just shot some tri-x thru mine, dev'd in pyrocat, yummy.

T
 
here's the full sequence from 25 to 3200 (and BTW, Turtle, it is 250, not 260):

25 32 40 50 64 80 100 125 160 200 250 320 400 500 640 800 1000 1250 1600 2000 2500 3200

- each step represent 1/3 f-stop more of sensibility, so you can say that the values double in groups of three (ie. 4th = 2x 1st, 5th =2x 2nd, 6th = 2x 3rd, etc.)

Roman
 
Film speeds go in sequence in the same way f/stops do... You have a basic segment that then is doubled or halved as you go up or down.
ISO: 100, 125, 160 then you double for the next segment 200, 250, 320, etc.
 
Thanks guys! I knew you'd have the answers for me. I really appreciate your time in responding to my questions. I knew I'd like this forum - everyone here is great.
Now - the fun part; taking the pictures. I don't have a insert for my scanner to accomodate this format. But will be back in my open-darkroom class in September to make some prints.
thanks again
bill barber
 
Back
Top