Contax G2 vs T3: Which AF is better?

RalphK

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Hi!
I have a Contax G2 but the AF sometimes really drives me crazy, esspecially in difficult lighting situations or when focusing on face/skin for portraits. Does anyone know how the T3 AF performs compared to the G2? Is it the same, better or worse? Maybe someone used both and can tell me :)
Thanks in advance!
 
G2 works well if you know what the camera is looking for.

http://www.botzilla.com/gearhead/2005/02/28/Fastest-Thumb-in-the-West.html

Pay attention to the distance readout in the viewfinder.

I know how to read the distance readout, but the camera does not focus at all even if there is enough contrast. I have to push the backbutton several times before the camera finds the focus. I don‘t know if there is something wrong with the G2 or if this is normal. I‘m just curious to know if the T3 can perform better. If so I will switch to the T3.
 
The T3 focus gives even less feedback, it’s good for a P&S. Not normal for the G2 to not be responsive, does it react quickly to shutter button focus? If not something is amiss with your camera.
 
Me too had experienced the G2 not nailing focus on anything in broad daylight once. The T3 is OK, pretty typical performance among the late-1990s phase detection P&S with a patterned AF assist beam. Out of the beam's range (5 meters I think) it will have trouble in low light.

If you want something better, try the Hexar. Its sophisticated active focus system blows any of its peers out of water. Comes with a in-finder distance scale too.
 
I don’t do BIF, so the AF on the G1 and G2 has always been more than good enough for me, once I learned how to use it. A thousand times better than an M3, and people like those.
There are cameras, more modern ones, that have “better” AF, but they don’t have the G lenses. I’ll make excuses for the G autofocus to have access to the G lenses, others will make excuses for the lack of G lenses to have access to slightly better AF. :)
You pays your money and you takes your chances.
 
Also worth noting, if one is thinking of switching from the G2 to the T3, not only does that limit you to one lens, a 35mm, but the 35mm on the G is a stop faster, and a Planar, and the 35mm on the T3, which is the only choice you will have, is a stop slower and a Sonnar. Which is a “ better” solution, is a personal decision, but there is a lot more going on here than the AF.
 
I don't think I could choose a G2 over a T3, or a T3 over a G2. They are completely different cameras for different purposes.

Personally I like the G1 best of the Gs, as it's lighter/smaller than the G2. Having had many Gx over the years I know what the camera is looking for when it comes to focus, so if I misfocus it is user error.

Sounds like your G2 needs a cleaning under that switch on the back.

Alternatively there is always the Contax T. :) No worries about autofocus problems on that model.
 
I have both the G2 and T3, and I've never really thought about AF, it's not been a problem. I do use the lock button on the G2 frequently, just for holding the focus while reframing the shot.
 
Just a guess, oxidation under the button perhaps?

The OP hasn't reponded with a report on the responsiveness of the shutter button half-press as compared to the apparently problematic back button.
 
Never owned a G2 but I had a G1 and it's AF system's accuracy was inadequate to consistently take full advantage of their razor sharp lenses, especially the 90 Sonnar which required spot on focus accuracy. I had the T3 and it's AF focus accuracy was never an issue but remember a 35/2.8 lens has a decent amount of DOF so even if the AF accuracy wasn't always perfect, the DOF more than made up for it. Main advantage of the T3 is top quality images and close focus capability in a precision petite package.
 
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