Contax G2, weird frames, please help

jawarden said:
I agree that cheap electronic or mechanical is a great way to go, and if you look at the OP's list of cameras you can see he's already gone that route as well (as have I). But that route does not offer the capabilities or user experience that his G2 does, which is why he's bummed about these problems, just like I was.

What can you do, that's film photography today; You can buy a "modern" high quality, highly capable electronic film camera like the G series and hope to get some years of use out of it before electronics or parts availability kills it, or just bite the bullet and get a vintage/cheap/mechanical that you don't really want.

I do think you can still buy the G series and have them "pay for themselves" with enjoyment and excellent negatives over time, but you have to be realistic about what you expect from the experience, and for how long, and what you're ultimately paying for it.
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Maybe I should go with G1 due to its price.
 
LeicaFoReVer said:
Maybe I should go with G1 due to its price.
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The payoff does come sooner with the G1 for sure, assuming you aren't hung up on the features and lenses that require the G2. If you get, say, two years of trouble free shooting from a G1 and you pay $200 for the body I'd say that's cheap rent enjoying those superlative lenses. Everyone's mileage varies of course.
 
Hi again,
I suggested you may have accidentally changed the drive mode. However what about the custom settings? Maybe you should cancel all the function settings for a start. I only use the film rewind with the leader out so it's easier to load into the developing tank.
DM.
 
rangefinderG said:
Hi again,
I suggested you may have accidentally changed the drive mode. However what about the custom settings? Maybe you should cancel all the function settings for a start. I only use the film rewind with the leader out so it's easier to load into the developing tank.
DM.
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Is there an easy way to cancel all? My preference is the same as yours.
 
To cancel all custom functions you are looking for CLE in the list of custom functions. It is on page 175 and 188. If you haven't the handbook I will endeavour to take you through the stages. While the camera is on hold the iso button and the focus lock on the back of the body for about 2 seconds. You will see the function number flash in the window near the iso button. The handbook shows 1-0 that's the first function. You change from 1,2,3,4,5 and CLE( which stands for clear) by turning the dial on the front of the body. It's like setting a digital clock you have to go through the sequences . The only one I use is 3 so for me it's 3-1. If you rotate the dial on the front till you get to CLE once you turn off the camera the functions are set.
 
Yes custom function . Press iso button and focus button on the back of the body while the camera is on for 2 seconds. The function will flash ( the handbook shows 1-0) By rotating the dial on front of the body you ca maneover through the various functions till after 5 . You will then see CLE ( which means clear). After having selected that one turn off the camera and it's clear.
 
Whiskering may be cause of problem

Whiskering may be cause of problem

I am just speculating here, but from my experience with various electronic items it seems that many of these inconsistent electronic failures/gremlins may be caused by microscopic "whiskering" on the circuit boards. This phenomenon involves the growth of microscopic, conductive hair-like growths on circuit boards over time and use with current running through them. These whiskers cause intermittent/periodic short circuits resulting in irregular performance. (These whiskers are sometimes referred to as "tin whiskers").
These problems became more prevalent after lead was removed from many solders used in manufacturing in the early-mid 1990's due to environmental concerns -- which was around the time the Contax G1 and G2 were released -- as lead in solders tend to inhibit whiskering.

I have personally experienced situations where faulty electronics have been revived by simply vacuuming electronic circuit boards with a suitable micro-brush attachment -- presumably because the gentle brushing and vacuuming action removed the whiskers. It might be worthwhile to try this. But this vacuuming must be done very delicately!!!
 
dtcls100 said:
I am just speculating here, but from my experience with various electronic items it seems that many of these inconsistent electronic failures/gremlins may be caused by microscopic "whiskering" on the circuit boards. This phenomenon involves the growth of microscopic, conductive hair-like growths on circuit boards over time and use with current running through them. These whiskers cause intermittent/periodic short circuits resulting in irregular performance. (These whiskers are sometimes referred to as "tin whiskers").
These problems became more prevalent after lead was removed from many solders used in manufacturing in the early-mid 1990's due to environmental concerns -- which was around the time the Contax G1 and G2 were released -- as lead in solders tend to inhibit whiskering.

I have personally experienced situations where faulty electronics have been revived by simply vacuuming electronic circuit boards with a suitable micro-brush attachment -- presumably because the gentle brushing and vacuuming action removed the whiskers. It might be worthwhile to try this. But this vacuuming must be done very delicately!!!
Click to expand...
I found the last remaining repairman in Turkey. He said shutter might be delayed due to a mechanical thing, gears etc. He said he has experience with G2 and that their shutter need regular maintenance so might be a small fix but I need to send it through. So I still have some hope. Electronic failures are what I am scared of.
 
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