Greyscale
Mentor
The late run versions of the original L35AF went to ASA 1000, and if the flash pops up, you just press it back down, and it will still meter correctly. The third version of the series, the L35AF3, has a flash-off switch, but uses DX encoding to set ISO.
I see that the Ricoh ff90 has already been suggested.
I see that the Ricoh ff90 has already been suggested.
Peter_S
Peter_S
Contax T3 ticks all the boxes, no?
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Not sure about what you mean by P&S, as for the 800ASA/ISO if you make it 400...
The Olympus µ-II could be there but for the flash. Ditto the Trip 35 and 35 ED; Canonet 28; Konica C35; Minox 35ML; Yashica T3 that don't have built in flash.
Regards, David
PS And what about the Rollei 35s?
Not sure about what you mean by P&S, as for the 800ASA/ISO if you make it 400...
The Olympus µ-II could be there but for the flash. Ditto the Trip 35 and 35 ED; Canonet 28; Konica C35; Minox 35ML; Yashica T3 that don't have built in flash.
Regards, David
PS And what about the Rollei 35s?
BlackXList
Well-known
The Konica Big Minis/A4 as mentioned do have a flash off option, you can set the flash mode while the camera is off.
So if you set it to off, when you turn it on it remembers the setting.
However, after turning it off it forgets again, so you just get into the habit of setting it when you turn it off.
It's not as ideal as the Contax T2/3 options, but for me better than the Olympus MJUII option of turning it off each time you turn it on.
I have the Nikon L35 1 2 and 3, from memory they're all flash defeatable, but you do need to push the flash back down again. The 3 does away with this, and has a button beside the lens, which you press and hold in order to not only defeat the flash, but also give it +1.5 stops of exposure compensation.
The Ricoh FF3af (35mm f3.2) has a slider underneath the flash that you pull out to enable the flash, and has manual ISO settings for 25, 64, 100, 400. (the lack of 200 and 800 is a little puzzling, and they seem to move waterhouse stops behind the light meter, so it's not possible to wedge between settings.
All of the Yashica T series have built in flash, some are 2.8 and some 3.5 but they're all defeatable on turning the camera on, and all great performers.
So if you set it to off, when you turn it on it remembers the setting.
However, after turning it off it forgets again, so you just get into the habit of setting it when you turn it off.
It's not as ideal as the Contax T2/3 options, but for me better than the Olympus MJUII option of turning it off each time you turn it on.
I have the Nikon L35 1 2 and 3, from memory they're all flash defeatable, but you do need to push the flash back down again. The 3 does away with this, and has a button beside the lens, which you press and hold in order to not only defeat the flash, but also give it +1.5 stops of exposure compensation.
The Ricoh FF3af (35mm f3.2) has a slider underneath the flash that you pull out to enable the flash, and has manual ISO settings for 25, 64, 100, 400. (the lack of 200 and 800 is a little puzzling, and they seem to move waterhouse stops behind the light meter, so it's not possible to wedge between settings.
All of the Yashica T series have built in flash, some are 2.8 and some 3.5 but they're all defeatable on turning the camera on, and all great performers.
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wildmuskellunge
Member
I guess I should specify that auto focus is ideal as I often shoot from my bike and being able to do so one-handed is preferable.
My first camera is the Canon Sprint, with a flash that is operated by physically sliding it out, to the on position. It is a somewhat unremarkable camera otherwise, but still one of my favorites for how it handles flash.
My first camera is the Canon Sprint, with a flash that is operated by physically sliding it out, to the on position. It is a somewhat unremarkable camera otherwise, but still one of my favorites for how it handles flash.
Archiver
Mentor
Contax T3, Nikon 35Ti, and Fuji Klasse S fit your criteria. The Contax T3 is my favourite 35mm compact camera, and has accompanied me to Sydney, Hong Kong, and a number of interstate jaunts. Being able to shoot without having to disable flash each time is so convenient, and it is small enough to be pocketable.
The Nikon L35AD2 is a cool camera, very light and fairly small, but you need to hold the flash down physically to prevent it from firing. Cheap as chips compared with the T3, though.
But if I could have a 'dream' 35mm point and shoot camera, it would be the Contax T3 but with better AF, a better MF method, and a wee bit of a rubberized grip.
The Nikon L35AD2 is a cool camera, very light and fairly small, but you need to hold the flash down physically to prevent it from firing. Cheap as chips compared with the T3, though.
But if I could have a 'dream' 35mm point and shoot camera, it would be the Contax T3 but with better AF, a better MF method, and a wee bit of a rubberized grip.
BlackXList
Well-known
I haven't used the MF on the T3 at all, so I can't comment on that, but I don't recall missing a shot with the AF, I may be missing something though, what issues have you had?
uhoh7
Mentor
The most powerful platform today for 35mm FL:
L1055951 by unoh7, on Flickr
42 MP FF 35/2 Sonnar, lenses matched to sensors for each unit. Good to ISO 6400 Near silent Leaf-shutter. Incredible DR. No flash, you never need one.
Like any real dream come true, it's not cheap LOL
Slipping Away by unoh7, on Flickr
Terri by unoh7, on Flickr
also great at F/11:
Plaque by unoh7, on Flickr
Has some quirks but when you learn them it's a pleasure to use. Nothing of any size or cost can match it at the moment for pure performance at the 35FL.
It's called the RX1rii
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
Minolta Hi-Matic AF2.
I had the Nikon, but hated the auto flash. The minolta has a large switch, and you have to activate the flash. Otherwise, they're similar. Fairly solid feel, nice viewfinder. It accepts a lens shade, and i have a slotted hood i used to use on my Leicas.
38mm, 2.8 lens....
I had the Nikon, but hated the auto flash. The minolta has a large switch, and you have to activate the flash. Otherwise, they're similar. Fairly solid feel, nice viewfinder. It accepts a lens shade, and i have a slotted hood i used to use on my Leicas.
38mm, 2.8 lens....
Scope79
Established
My Minolta TC-1 is a dream come true....
Archiver
Mentor
Sometimes it misses focus on horizontal lines, like horizons. The solution is to turn the camera to portrait orientation, focus, then move it back to landscape.
It can also be a bit tricky with close/macro distances, so you've got to be careful to watch for the Macro symbol if shooting close up.
Manual focus on the T3 means pushing the menu button a few times and then rotating the control dial until the top display shows the desired distance. As it is not illuminated, it can be difficult to see in the dark, and the process is a bit kludgy. As it is, the T3 autofocuses quite well in the dark due to the red grid it displays in low light conditions.
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
Nikon 35Ti hits all the points raised.
wildmuskellunge
Member
The 35ti doesn't have autoflash? I have a Nikon L35AF and it's my primary shooter so maybe the 35ti could be a nice step up...
BlackXList
Well-known
Thank you, I'll pay attention to the horizontal line issue in future, I'd not noticed it before, but it's always good to be aware.
I haven't used the MF, and I'm not likely to, it's not designed for it, so I'm not going to make my life harder and work against it haha.
Archiver
Mentor
At breakfast in a cafe this morning, I tried focusing with the T3 two or three times before the Macro symbol lit up properly. Solid Macro symbol means it is locked on. Flashing macro means it is too close and up the sxxt, haha.
petronius
Mentor
The Nikon L35AWAF has all P&S features and the flash has to be activated manually. It´s big and heavy, but weatherproof and silent.
The Canon AF 35 ML has an annoying low-light-warning-beep (it can be muted with some work inside the camera) and the AF is sometimes off in low light situations.
roseha
Newbie
I love the Olympus XA but I would have loved a version with a 50mm lens. I realize I'm probably in the minority though. There are times I just don't want wide angle, especially since the XA has a rangefinder.
squirrel$$$bandit
Mentor
I was just reading this article on 35mmc last night...it got me wanting a pocketable P&S, too.
http://www.35mmc.com/09/10/2015/35mmc-guide-35mm-advanced-compact-camera-2/
http://www.35mmc.com/09/10/2015/35mmc-guide-35mm-advanced-compact-camera-2/
Mlehrman
Mlehrman
RX1R II with a film back.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Olympus XA and leave the flash at home...
Regards, David
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