Jason Schneider
the Camera Collector
How To Buy Cameras On eBay: 10 Great Tips
Sage advice from an inveterate eBay addict
By Jason Schneider
I’ve been an eBay member since 1998 and I began buying cameras on eBay well before that. The lure of the world’s top online auction site can certainly be addictive—but you can occasionally snag great deals. Indeed, many leading retail establishments including Adorama, B&H, KEH, CameraQuest, Roberts Camera, National Camera Exchange, etc., etc. all sell photographic equipment on eBay. And if you’re not the bidding type, eBay offers Buy It Now and/or Make Offer options.
There are elaborate safeguards on eBay to prevent you from non-delivery or receiving items not as described, and bad actors receiving lots of negative feedback can be banished from the site. Nevertheless, buying cameras on eBay is still inherently riskier than an in-person transaction at a brick-and-mortar store. We’re not here to advocate for or inveigh against eBay, but to help you minimize your risk and maximize your satisfaction in buying cameras and related gear on this immensely popular timed auction site.
10 Great Tips For Buying Cameras, Lenses, and Other Photo Equipment On eBay
1. Carefully examine all the posted pictures. The product images posted on eBay are the only way you have to visually assess the physical and cosmetic condition of the camera or other items listed, and to do this effectively the images must be reasonably sharp and detailed. Inspect each image meticulously at high magnification on a computer screen to see if there are any scratches, nicks, dents, missing or incorrect parts, or other problems, all of which lower the item’s value. If the images were shot from too far away, are blurry, or there are too few of them to show the back, bottom, top, and sides of camera, don’t bid unless you’re willing to risk the purchase price. You can also contact the seller asking them to post more or better images, and a more precise verbal description, and then make your final judgment when you receive them.
2. Check the seller’s record. Not all eBay sellers are created equal and it’s a good idea to check their eBay records before you bid. Just click on the seller’s eBay name under Seller Information on the upper right-hand corner of the screen. eBay sellers with ratings in the 99-100% positive range that have made hundreds or thousands of sales are almost always trustworthy, as are sellers with gold star or Top Seller ratings. Any rating under about 95% should be a red flag. By clicking on the positive (green), negative (red), and neutral (black) tabs on the eBay seller record screen you can access individual buyer comments on the seller and the seller’s response. Most sellers on eBay are honest, friendly, and will go out of their way to maintain their favorable ratings. Issues with sellers can usually be resolved by contacting them directly or through eBay’s dispute resolution system. Can you get screwed? Yes, but it’s only happened to me once in more than 20 years and over 1,200 transactions on eBay.
3. Read the entire listing diligently. The Item Description and Product Details sections should have a detailed description of the camera, including model name or number, lens, features, general condition, and info on any operational or cosmetic defects and other issues. Many do not, and this may be a simple case of the seller not being camera savvy. However, never assume a camera is in good working condition unless the listing clearly states that it’s fully functional. “As Is” means exactly what it says, and the seller doesn’t have to refund your money unless the item has been inaccurately described. Beware of hedged statements like “looks good and seems to work” unless the listing clearly states seller is willing to accept returns unconditionally. If a camera is listed as “in perfect working condition” and it isn’t when you receive it, you may be able to return it by contacting the seller, or as a last resort, opening an eBay case on grounds that the item is “not as described,” even though the listing states Returns Not Accepted. However, you’re always better off dealing with a seller that does accept returns or offers, say, a 14-day money-back guarantee. Remember also that the cost of shipping back an item is generally the buyer’s responsibility though some upstanding eBay sellers will include it in any refund posted to your account. eBay listings are legal contracts so it’s essential to read the fine print twice before you bid or buy.
4. Cruise the eBay listings to get the best deal. The easiest way to find the exact camera you’re looking for is to type the name and model into the search box at the top of the eBay screen. This will usually bring up a range of cameras matching or close to your criteria. Check out each one carefully, based on the advice given above, and narrow it down to a few choices. If the camera is an eBay auction listing or a Buy It Now listing at a fixed price, you can go to the upper right-hand corner of the screen and save it in your watch list by clicking on Add to watch list. The exception: If the item is listed with a Best Offer option, it’s best not to add it to your watch list if you intend to make an offer. The more watchers the seller sees, the less likely he/she will be to accept your offer at the lowest possible price. If you do decide to make an offer on a camera, you can start by offering about half of the seller’s Buy It Now price, or more if you consider your offer a good deal you can live with. The seller has the option of making a counteroffer that you can accept or decline, and so do you. However you get only 3 tries, and then you can only buy the item at the Buy It Now price.
5. Finding great buys on eBay. If you peruse the eBay listings for highly desirable items like Leica cameras, Leica screw-mount or M-mount lenses, or my personal heart-throb, screw-mount Canon rangefinder cameras of the ‘50s and ‘60s, it’s easy to conclude that there are no great buys on eBay anymore. While it’s true that the phenomenal deals I got when I joined eBay back in 1998 are few and far between, they’re still out there if you search persistently and act quickly. It’s a good idea to save your searches for particular items because you’ll be notified when new items matching your search criteria are listed. Also, you can search for similar items that command lower prices—for example I recently bought a mint Canon 7 body for under 100 bucks instead of the 7s I really wanted, which would have cost me $250. Another good strategy is to scan all the listings to establish a price range for the camera you want, then bid or buy when you find a clean working example at a lower price. Good news for digital shooters: With certain notable exceptions, top performing digital cameras of all kinds that are more than 1-3 years old are readily available on eBay at enticing prices. For some reason eBay prices for film cameras have steadily increased over the past few years. Go figure.
6. Send the right messages to the seller. Sending messages to the seller can be very useful. You can, as mentioned, ask questions about the camera’s condition or what’s included, request more information or photos, ask for a lower shipping cost if the amount seems too high, etc. If the seller responds quickly and in a friendly manner, it’s a good sign that you’re dealing with a responsible person. As I suggested, many eBayers are casual or occasional sellers that may not know much about what they’re selling. That’s why it’s a good idea to click on the “Message to seller, optional” tab when paying and, give them some guidance on proper camera packing to minimize the possibility of damage in transit
Here’s a concise version of my standard packing message:
“Hi John (or eBay name), Please pack this camera very well by wrapping it securely in 2 layers of bubble wrap and immobilizing it in a hard box with packing material on all sides. Please also ship it as soon as you can and provide a tracking number. Thanks for your kind attention, and best regards, Name”
7. Surviving the eBay bidding wars: Much ink has been spilled on the intricacies of bidding effectively and winning auctions on eBay, and I’m sure there are more sophisticated strategies than mine readily accessible on the Internet. The first thing to decide is whether you want to bid at all. Ask yourself such logical questions as, “Do I need this camera? How does it fit into or complement my existing system? How am I going to use it? Can I afford it right now? etc.” before you get into the seductive and emotional process of bidding.
When I see a camera I want, I save it in my Watched items list and wait patiently until shortly before the auction ends. With Buy It Now and Make Offer items this runs the risk that someone will snap it up before you bid. If I decide that’s not a risk worth taking, I’ll make an offer. A fairly large percentage of eBay auctions are decided in the last few seconds before time runs out, and I must admit I’m often a “sniper,” a polite term for folks that make higher bids at the last second. Indeed, I often put my bid in at the last moment even when there are zero bidders, because it gives me the best chance of snagging the item at the lowest possible price if another guy is using the same strategy. I’ve also found that bidders are more apt to bid if someone else has placed a bid before them, another advantage to bidding as late as possible. The downside: You have only one chance to snipe, and if someone else outbids you at the last second, they win.
8. Check the camera thoroughly as soon as you receive it. Make sure the shutter is firing at all speeds and that the self-timer works, that the focusing (manual and AF), lens diaphragm and exposure systems are functioning properly, that the battery compartment is free of corrosion, and that the camera’s appearance corresponds with the images posted in the eBay listing. If the serial number is visible in the photos check it as well. If it’s a digital camera, charge the battery, take a few pictures and assess the results on your computer.
You may be willing to accept some minor imperfections you didn’t notice, but if the camera fails to meet your expectations or has a problem not noted or pictured in the listing, contact the seller immediately and try to resolve the issues directly without involving eBay. When sending a message to the seller check the circle marked “Need information about using item or want to send a message to the seller.” If you check “Item not as described” this can be tantamount to initiating an eBay dispute, which has possible negative consequences for the seller and (believe it or not) they buyer, especially if you initiate “too many” damage claims in an (unspecified) period of time. If the defect is repairable you have the option of checking the cost with a reputable camera repair company and asking the seller for a partial refund to cover it.
9. Leaving feedback and filing complaints. As soon as I receive a camera that’s been well packed, shipped promptly, and meets all my expectations, I immediately click the Leave Feedback tab and leave 5-star positive feedback in all categories, plus a short affirmative message such as: “Accurate description, sent fast, well packed. An A++++seller!” I do this even if I think the shipping cost was a bit high or receiving it took a few days longer than I anticipated because I like to support good sellers on eBay and I know sellers appreciate it.
Always try to resolve issues with the seller before leaving negative or neutral feedback because it goes against their record. Also, you don’t want them to leave negative buyer feedback for you (which they can if you make unfounded complaints, take too long to pay, etc.) If you want to leave fewer than 5 stars in any of the 4 performance categories listed that’s up to you, but I don’t do it if I’m generally satisfied with the transaction. If you do file a legitimate complaint, as a last resort eBay will stand behind you and even refund your money and bill the seller if the item is covered by the eBay guarantee (most are.) Finally, if you’re confused about how to proceed with filing or pursuing a claim, it’s fairly easy to reach eBay by phone or chat by clicking on Help & Contact tab and following the prompts until the call or chat options come up.
10. Make friends with a good camera repair outfit. Used cameras, even if they’re in great shape, may require attention if you intend to use them. That’s why it’s a good idea to establish a warm relationship with a well-established company specializing in camera repair that has knowledgeable, experienced camera technicians on staff. I send all eBay cameras I plan to shoot with extensively to Pro Camera in Charlottesville VA for a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment to spec) as soon as I receive them. Pro’s chief repair guru Bill Moretz has a wealth of hands-on experience and he prides himself on being able to fix almost anything, including the exotic old cameras I foist on him, even fabricating spare parts when needed. I’ve also used United Camera Repair in Rock Island, IL with satisfaction.
Sage advice from an inveterate eBay addict
By Jason Schneider
I’ve been an eBay member since 1998 and I began buying cameras on eBay well before that. The lure of the world’s top online auction site can certainly be addictive—but you can occasionally snag great deals. Indeed, many leading retail establishments including Adorama, B&H, KEH, CameraQuest, Roberts Camera, National Camera Exchange, etc., etc. all sell photographic equipment on eBay. And if you’re not the bidding type, eBay offers Buy It Now and/or Make Offer options.
There are elaborate safeguards on eBay to prevent you from non-delivery or receiving items not as described, and bad actors receiving lots of negative feedback can be banished from the site. Nevertheless, buying cameras on eBay is still inherently riskier than an in-person transaction at a brick-and-mortar store. We’re not here to advocate for or inveigh against eBay, but to help you minimize your risk and maximize your satisfaction in buying cameras and related gear on this immensely popular timed auction site.
10 Great Tips For Buying Cameras, Lenses, and Other Photo Equipment On eBay
1. Carefully examine all the posted pictures. The product images posted on eBay are the only way you have to visually assess the physical and cosmetic condition of the camera or other items listed, and to do this effectively the images must be reasonably sharp and detailed. Inspect each image meticulously at high magnification on a computer screen to see if there are any scratches, nicks, dents, missing or incorrect parts, or other problems, all of which lower the item’s value. If the images were shot from too far away, are blurry, or there are too few of them to show the back, bottom, top, and sides of camera, don’t bid unless you’re willing to risk the purchase price. You can also contact the seller asking them to post more or better images, and a more precise verbal description, and then make your final judgment when you receive them.
2. Check the seller’s record. Not all eBay sellers are created equal and it’s a good idea to check their eBay records before you bid. Just click on the seller’s eBay name under Seller Information on the upper right-hand corner of the screen. eBay sellers with ratings in the 99-100% positive range that have made hundreds or thousands of sales are almost always trustworthy, as are sellers with gold star or Top Seller ratings. Any rating under about 95% should be a red flag. By clicking on the positive (green), negative (red), and neutral (black) tabs on the eBay seller record screen you can access individual buyer comments on the seller and the seller’s response. Most sellers on eBay are honest, friendly, and will go out of their way to maintain their favorable ratings. Issues with sellers can usually be resolved by contacting them directly or through eBay’s dispute resolution system. Can you get screwed? Yes, but it’s only happened to me once in more than 20 years and over 1,200 transactions on eBay.
3. Read the entire listing diligently. The Item Description and Product Details sections should have a detailed description of the camera, including model name or number, lens, features, general condition, and info on any operational or cosmetic defects and other issues. Many do not, and this may be a simple case of the seller not being camera savvy. However, never assume a camera is in good working condition unless the listing clearly states that it’s fully functional. “As Is” means exactly what it says, and the seller doesn’t have to refund your money unless the item has been inaccurately described. Beware of hedged statements like “looks good and seems to work” unless the listing clearly states seller is willing to accept returns unconditionally. If a camera is listed as “in perfect working condition” and it isn’t when you receive it, you may be able to return it by contacting the seller, or as a last resort, opening an eBay case on grounds that the item is “not as described,” even though the listing states Returns Not Accepted. However, you’re always better off dealing with a seller that does accept returns or offers, say, a 14-day money-back guarantee. Remember also that the cost of shipping back an item is generally the buyer’s responsibility though some upstanding eBay sellers will include it in any refund posted to your account. eBay listings are legal contracts so it’s essential to read the fine print twice before you bid or buy.
4. Cruise the eBay listings to get the best deal. The easiest way to find the exact camera you’re looking for is to type the name and model into the search box at the top of the eBay screen. This will usually bring up a range of cameras matching or close to your criteria. Check out each one carefully, based on the advice given above, and narrow it down to a few choices. If the camera is an eBay auction listing or a Buy It Now listing at a fixed price, you can go to the upper right-hand corner of the screen and save it in your watch list by clicking on Add to watch list. The exception: If the item is listed with a Best Offer option, it’s best not to add it to your watch list if you intend to make an offer. The more watchers the seller sees, the less likely he/she will be to accept your offer at the lowest possible price. If you do decide to make an offer on a camera, you can start by offering about half of the seller’s Buy It Now price, or more if you consider your offer a good deal you can live with. The seller has the option of making a counteroffer that you can accept or decline, and so do you. However you get only 3 tries, and then you can only buy the item at the Buy It Now price.
5. Finding great buys on eBay. If you peruse the eBay listings for highly desirable items like Leica cameras, Leica screw-mount or M-mount lenses, or my personal heart-throb, screw-mount Canon rangefinder cameras of the ‘50s and ‘60s, it’s easy to conclude that there are no great buys on eBay anymore. While it’s true that the phenomenal deals I got when I joined eBay back in 1998 are few and far between, they’re still out there if you search persistently and act quickly. It’s a good idea to save your searches for particular items because you’ll be notified when new items matching your search criteria are listed. Also, you can search for similar items that command lower prices—for example I recently bought a mint Canon 7 body for under 100 bucks instead of the 7s I really wanted, which would have cost me $250. Another good strategy is to scan all the listings to establish a price range for the camera you want, then bid or buy when you find a clean working example at a lower price. Good news for digital shooters: With certain notable exceptions, top performing digital cameras of all kinds that are more than 1-3 years old are readily available on eBay at enticing prices. For some reason eBay prices for film cameras have steadily increased over the past few years. Go figure.
6. Send the right messages to the seller. Sending messages to the seller can be very useful. You can, as mentioned, ask questions about the camera’s condition or what’s included, request more information or photos, ask for a lower shipping cost if the amount seems too high, etc. If the seller responds quickly and in a friendly manner, it’s a good sign that you’re dealing with a responsible person. As I suggested, many eBayers are casual or occasional sellers that may not know much about what they’re selling. That’s why it’s a good idea to click on the “Message to seller, optional” tab when paying and, give them some guidance on proper camera packing to minimize the possibility of damage in transit
Here’s a concise version of my standard packing message:
“Hi John (or eBay name), Please pack this camera very well by wrapping it securely in 2 layers of bubble wrap and immobilizing it in a hard box with packing material on all sides. Please also ship it as soon as you can and provide a tracking number. Thanks for your kind attention, and best regards, Name”
7. Surviving the eBay bidding wars: Much ink has been spilled on the intricacies of bidding effectively and winning auctions on eBay, and I’m sure there are more sophisticated strategies than mine readily accessible on the Internet. The first thing to decide is whether you want to bid at all. Ask yourself such logical questions as, “Do I need this camera? How does it fit into or complement my existing system? How am I going to use it? Can I afford it right now? etc.” before you get into the seductive and emotional process of bidding.
When I see a camera I want, I save it in my Watched items list and wait patiently until shortly before the auction ends. With Buy It Now and Make Offer items this runs the risk that someone will snap it up before you bid. If I decide that’s not a risk worth taking, I’ll make an offer. A fairly large percentage of eBay auctions are decided in the last few seconds before time runs out, and I must admit I’m often a “sniper,” a polite term for folks that make higher bids at the last second. Indeed, I often put my bid in at the last moment even when there are zero bidders, because it gives me the best chance of snagging the item at the lowest possible price if another guy is using the same strategy. I’ve also found that bidders are more apt to bid if someone else has placed a bid before them, another advantage to bidding as late as possible. The downside: You have only one chance to snipe, and if someone else outbids you at the last second, they win.
8. Check the camera thoroughly as soon as you receive it. Make sure the shutter is firing at all speeds and that the self-timer works, that the focusing (manual and AF), lens diaphragm and exposure systems are functioning properly, that the battery compartment is free of corrosion, and that the camera’s appearance corresponds with the images posted in the eBay listing. If the serial number is visible in the photos check it as well. If it’s a digital camera, charge the battery, take a few pictures and assess the results on your computer.
You may be willing to accept some minor imperfections you didn’t notice, but if the camera fails to meet your expectations or has a problem not noted or pictured in the listing, contact the seller immediately and try to resolve the issues directly without involving eBay. When sending a message to the seller check the circle marked “Need information about using item or want to send a message to the seller.” If you check “Item not as described” this can be tantamount to initiating an eBay dispute, which has possible negative consequences for the seller and (believe it or not) they buyer, especially if you initiate “too many” damage claims in an (unspecified) period of time. If the defect is repairable you have the option of checking the cost with a reputable camera repair company and asking the seller for a partial refund to cover it.
9. Leaving feedback and filing complaints. As soon as I receive a camera that’s been well packed, shipped promptly, and meets all my expectations, I immediately click the Leave Feedback tab and leave 5-star positive feedback in all categories, plus a short affirmative message such as: “Accurate description, sent fast, well packed. An A++++seller!” I do this even if I think the shipping cost was a bit high or receiving it took a few days longer than I anticipated because I like to support good sellers on eBay and I know sellers appreciate it.
Always try to resolve issues with the seller before leaving negative or neutral feedback because it goes against their record. Also, you don’t want them to leave negative buyer feedback for you (which they can if you make unfounded complaints, take too long to pay, etc.) If you want to leave fewer than 5 stars in any of the 4 performance categories listed that’s up to you, but I don’t do it if I’m generally satisfied with the transaction. If you do file a legitimate complaint, as a last resort eBay will stand behind you and even refund your money and bill the seller if the item is covered by the eBay guarantee (most are.) Finally, if you’re confused about how to proceed with filing or pursuing a claim, it’s fairly easy to reach eBay by phone or chat by clicking on Help & Contact tab and following the prompts until the call or chat options come up.
10. Make friends with a good camera repair outfit. Used cameras, even if they’re in great shape, may require attention if you intend to use them. That’s why it’s a good idea to establish a warm relationship with a well-established company specializing in camera repair that has knowledgeable, experienced camera technicians on staff. I send all eBay cameras I plan to shoot with extensively to Pro Camera in Charlottesville VA for a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment to spec) as soon as I receive them. Pro’s chief repair guru Bill Moretz has a wealth of hands-on experience and he prides himself on being able to fix almost anything, including the exotic old cameras I foist on him, even fabricating spare parts when needed. I’ve also used United Camera Repair in Rock Island, IL with satisfaction.
raydm6
Yay! Cameras! 🙈🙉🙊┌( ಠ_ಠ)┘ [◉"]
Thanks Jason!
Per your recommendation and purchasing tips, I just snagged a beautiful Kodak Signet 35 in very nice condition (including the rangefinder).
Also, for some reason, this camera photographs *BIG*, but is actually quite tiny, cute, and diminutive... ...and close to jewel-like.
Per your recommendation and purchasing tips, I just snagged a beautiful Kodak Signet 35 in very nice condition (including the rangefinder).
Also, for some reason, this camera photographs *BIG*, but is actually quite tiny, cute, and diminutive... ...and close to jewel-like.
Horatio
Masked photographer
Timely info, as I'm on the prowl for a camera. I'll definitely use the packing message!
Steve Ruddy
Established
Great tips Jason. I usually have no idea of the current market price of a particular item so here is my mo before purchasing.
One of my problems is I prefer items that are in exceptionally good shape at least cosmetically. This usually increases my cost and sometimes I pull the trigger on an item I should have waited on. Case in point. I just purchased a Mint Nikon Nikkormat 85mm f1.4 AI-S with Hood and original cap. Original asking price was $629 Seller did a counter offer of $589 to my offer of $545. Shipping from Japan was an extra $40. I felt with tax this was more than I wanted to spend and just a bit on the high end for a mint condition lens of this type. Since there are so many of these lenses on the market and new listings are showing up almost every day I decided to wait. I found a so called mint version from a US seller. It was an auction with buy it now of $750! The listing stated looks like new open box. The seller used 3 stock photos and two of the actual lens. I emailed him my usual list of questions and he replied that he purchased the lens on eBay. Well his listing said he purchased it new and paint was perfect. I asked him about a possible scratch I saw, and he replied that yes there is a fine scratch and I have good eyes. So I decided I wanted to see how high bidding would go and if I could get this one for $475 I would look for an OEM hood and cap for it. There were quite a lot of folks hot for this lens. I was at hand ready to put my bid in at the last second. It was actually entertaining watching everyone bid on this. 15 seconds before it was over the battle began! The item brought $600! Based on my pre purchase research of sold prices I determined this to be one of those listings that may have been over paid. I blame this in part for the seller not revealing the full truth. This item could easily be a return for item not as described because seller indicated perfect paint. So after this I took a look at my short watchlist and the offer I mentioned above didn’t look so bad now, so I pulled the trigger. The very next morning I saw a new buy it now listing With all the same items in the same condition for $50 less which was almost exactly what I originally offered for the lens I purchased!
- Search for the item I’m interested in purchasing
- Filter by sold, uncheck completed
- Inspect sale prices and make notes on conditions ect
- Decide on the highest amount I would spend
- Decide if I want to limit looking at listings from certain locations
- Finally create a search filtered for location. I usually leave the price unfiltered even though I have pre set my max
One of my problems is I prefer items that are in exceptionally good shape at least cosmetically. This usually increases my cost and sometimes I pull the trigger on an item I should have waited on. Case in point. I just purchased a Mint Nikon Nikkormat 85mm f1.4 AI-S with Hood and original cap. Original asking price was $629 Seller did a counter offer of $589 to my offer of $545. Shipping from Japan was an extra $40. I felt with tax this was more than I wanted to spend and just a bit on the high end for a mint condition lens of this type. Since there are so many of these lenses on the market and new listings are showing up almost every day I decided to wait. I found a so called mint version from a US seller. It was an auction with buy it now of $750! The listing stated looks like new open box. The seller used 3 stock photos and two of the actual lens. I emailed him my usual list of questions and he replied that he purchased the lens on eBay. Well his listing said he purchased it new and paint was perfect. I asked him about a possible scratch I saw, and he replied that yes there is a fine scratch and I have good eyes. So I decided I wanted to see how high bidding would go and if I could get this one for $475 I would look for an OEM hood and cap for it. There were quite a lot of folks hot for this lens. I was at hand ready to put my bid in at the last second. It was actually entertaining watching everyone bid on this. 15 seconds before it was over the battle began! The item brought $600! Based on my pre purchase research of sold prices I determined this to be one of those listings that may have been over paid. I blame this in part for the seller not revealing the full truth. This item could easily be a return for item not as described because seller indicated perfect paint. So after this I took a look at my short watchlist and the offer I mentioned above didn’t look so bad now, so I pulled the trigger. The very next morning I saw a new buy it now listing With all the same items in the same condition for $50 less which was almost exactly what I originally offered for the lens I purchased!
charjohncarter
Mentor
I wish I'd read this 10 years ago.
Vince Lupo
Barely Known
I'd like to give a bit of advice to sellers as well as buyers, as I've been an eBay seller for 10 years (and on eBay as a buyer since 2000):
For Sellers: Make sure to take good, well-lit photos that are sharp. Blurry, poorly-lit, upside-down cell phone photos just aren't going to help you or the prospective buyer. Plus, make an attempt to clean the item - doesn't necessarily need to be the full spit'n'polish on a buffing wheel, but at least show that the item is reasonably clean and you just didn't pull it out from your dusty attic before taking the pictures.
Ship promptly. The thing that drives me nuts is when a seller takes a week to ship an item, even if it's something as minor as a lens filter.
Pack well. Bubble wrap, foam peanuts, nicely packed, clearly addressed.
I usually send along a postcard with a thank-you message. As well, I send the buyer a note immediately after they've paid and/or I've shipped the item, thanking them for their purchase and letting them know that the item is on its way. I also make sure to provide the tracking number. This hopefully shows that I care about what I'm selling and that it arrives as you expect - or even better.
Make sure to leave feedback -- if the buyer paid promptly (and that's something that a buyer should do!), there is no reason why the seller should not leave positive feedback. If they did their job, you should do yours.
For Buyers: Please don't ask about cheaper shipping options AFTER you've won the auction. The auction is supposed to be a contract -- if I've set out specific shipping/payment parameters and you bid on the item, I'm going under the premise that you agree with my terms. Really any questions that you might have about the auction item / auction terms should be asked before you bid.
I normally ship internationally via eBay's Global Shipping Program -- the item is shipped to their eBay shipping hub in Erlanger, Kentucky, and from there eBay/Pitney Bowes assumes final international delivery. One thing that I do not appreciate is when I clearly state that international deliveries will be facilitated only through eBay's Global Shipping Program, and then a seemingly 'domestic' bidder buys the item only to do an international shipping delivery address switcheroo after they've won the item. Not only do they now expect me to ship it directly to them, circumventing Global Shipping Program, but they invariably want me to write down a lower declared value on the Customs form. Plus, somehow I'm expected to be responsible for import charges and delivery times. In these days of COVID, month-long delivery times are to be expected to some international destinations. Most buyers understand, but there are the odd ones that want to fault me for the long shipping time, despite the fact that I shipped the item the same or next day. Ah well!
I have other buyer advice that I could impart, but I'll leave these few tidbits at that.
For Sellers: Make sure to take good, well-lit photos that are sharp. Blurry, poorly-lit, upside-down cell phone photos just aren't going to help you or the prospective buyer. Plus, make an attempt to clean the item - doesn't necessarily need to be the full spit'n'polish on a buffing wheel, but at least show that the item is reasonably clean and you just didn't pull it out from your dusty attic before taking the pictures.
Ship promptly. The thing that drives me nuts is when a seller takes a week to ship an item, even if it's something as minor as a lens filter.
Pack well. Bubble wrap, foam peanuts, nicely packed, clearly addressed.
I usually send along a postcard with a thank-you message. As well, I send the buyer a note immediately after they've paid and/or I've shipped the item, thanking them for their purchase and letting them know that the item is on its way. I also make sure to provide the tracking number. This hopefully shows that I care about what I'm selling and that it arrives as you expect - or even better.
Make sure to leave feedback -- if the buyer paid promptly (and that's something that a buyer should do!), there is no reason why the seller should not leave positive feedback. If they did their job, you should do yours.
For Buyers: Please don't ask about cheaper shipping options AFTER you've won the auction. The auction is supposed to be a contract -- if I've set out specific shipping/payment parameters and you bid on the item, I'm going under the premise that you agree with my terms. Really any questions that you might have about the auction item / auction terms should be asked before you bid.
I normally ship internationally via eBay's Global Shipping Program -- the item is shipped to their eBay shipping hub in Erlanger, Kentucky, and from there eBay/Pitney Bowes assumes final international delivery. One thing that I do not appreciate is when I clearly state that international deliveries will be facilitated only through eBay's Global Shipping Program, and then a seemingly 'domestic' bidder buys the item only to do an international shipping delivery address switcheroo after they've won the item. Not only do they now expect me to ship it directly to them, circumventing Global Shipping Program, but they invariably want me to write down a lower declared value on the Customs form. Plus, somehow I'm expected to be responsible for import charges and delivery times. In these days of COVID, month-long delivery times are to be expected to some international destinations. Most buyers understand, but there are the odd ones that want to fault me for the long shipping time, despite the fact that I shipped the item the same or next day. Ah well!
I have other buyer advice that I could impart, but I'll leave these few tidbits at that.
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
Unfortunately, Ebay is now a necessary evil in the lives of every seller with good cameras and lenses to sell.
For many years it gave equal protection to its sellers as well as buyers, but then decided to tilt the scale in favor of the buyer, and along with its cohort Paypal, put in one-sided new policies to ensure anyone who feels buyer's remorse (= decides they don't like or want an item they've bought) can easily fabricate an excuse to get their money back.
In many cases the seller has no recourse at all - the money is just taken from their Paypal or bank accounts, full stop. A canny buyer can even keep the item after being auto-refunded the full payment and costs by Paypal. This wasn't my experience, but I know sellers who've been hit with it.
Last year I sold a Contax G1 to a buyer in Melbourne who decided he didn't want it and claimed it wasn't working as described. Without even contacting me beforehand, Ebay and Paypal cancelled the sale and refunded his entire payment. Paypal then went into my bank account and withdrew the funds, leaving me with an overdraft and a bank fee.
After several complaints to Ebay, answered with cut-paste template statements which didn't address any of my points, I complained to a state retail ombudsman and got the G1 returned. My camera repair center found nothing wrong with it, contrary to the fictitious reasons given to Ebay by the seller.
I cut off my connection to Ebay, and have never returned, nor will I ever buy anything from them again. Lesson learned.
By chance I recently learned from another Ebay seller that the same buyer pulled this trick on him for a Contax G2, and again got away with it. Before this sale the buyer told him he had a Zeiss G 90mm lens, the worst optics in the Zeiss G arsenal for a beginner to use and expect any sort of decent results. As in my sale, buyer wasn't happy with his G2 images and repeated the same sequence of events, and as expeced Ebay came to the party with a full refund. It took the seller SIX WEEKS and an advance payment for shipping to get his camera back. As in my case, nothing was wrong with it.
Other than to be extra careful with listings, providing good quality images and passing on Ebay to deal only with other reputable web sites, my advice is to avoid Ebay entirely. (Paypal are useful and seem quite reasonable with its services if Ebay doesn't come into the picture.)
I've concluded that selling photo gear online can be a mug's game and one has to take the occasional bad egg buyer along with the good ones. As I value my peace of mind above the money I can make from my unwanted photo gear, I no longer sell online.
My friend still uses Ebay to dispose of photo bits (cheap cameras and small items in generally crappy condition), but he lists his cameras and lenses as Not Working/For Parts even when they are fully operational. He adjusts his auction prices accordingly but as he says, Ebay sales are often so inflated anyway that he usually makes up any loss.
In the end he sold his G2 and other quality items via a Melbourne photo dealer on a consignment/commission agreement. His advice to me was as follows.
Look for a reputable dealer. Ask around for advice from buyers you know. Never sell directly to the dealer. Offer it on consignment/commission only. Decide beforehand how much you (sensibly) want for your equipment and hold out for your price before the commission. Get it all in writing. if the dealer hesitates, find another.
I'm now doing a last 'cull' of film cameras at home, and in October I'll go the way of a consignment with the camera shop. Ebay was a mistake I won't be repeating, ever.
For many years it gave equal protection to its sellers as well as buyers, but then decided to tilt the scale in favor of the buyer, and along with its cohort Paypal, put in one-sided new policies to ensure anyone who feels buyer's remorse (= decides they don't like or want an item they've bought) can easily fabricate an excuse to get their money back.
In many cases the seller has no recourse at all - the money is just taken from their Paypal or bank accounts, full stop. A canny buyer can even keep the item after being auto-refunded the full payment and costs by Paypal. This wasn't my experience, but I know sellers who've been hit with it.
Last year I sold a Contax G1 to a buyer in Melbourne who decided he didn't want it and claimed it wasn't working as described. Without even contacting me beforehand, Ebay and Paypal cancelled the sale and refunded his entire payment. Paypal then went into my bank account and withdrew the funds, leaving me with an overdraft and a bank fee.
After several complaints to Ebay, answered with cut-paste template statements which didn't address any of my points, I complained to a state retail ombudsman and got the G1 returned. My camera repair center found nothing wrong with it, contrary to the fictitious reasons given to Ebay by the seller.
I cut off my connection to Ebay, and have never returned, nor will I ever buy anything from them again. Lesson learned.
By chance I recently learned from another Ebay seller that the same buyer pulled this trick on him for a Contax G2, and again got away with it. Before this sale the buyer told him he had a Zeiss G 90mm lens, the worst optics in the Zeiss G arsenal for a beginner to use and expect any sort of decent results. As in my sale, buyer wasn't happy with his G2 images and repeated the same sequence of events, and as expeced Ebay came to the party with a full refund. It took the seller SIX WEEKS and an advance payment for shipping to get his camera back. As in my case, nothing was wrong with it.
Other than to be extra careful with listings, providing good quality images and passing on Ebay to deal only with other reputable web sites, my advice is to avoid Ebay entirely. (Paypal are useful and seem quite reasonable with its services if Ebay doesn't come into the picture.)
I've concluded that selling photo gear online can be a mug's game and one has to take the occasional bad egg buyer along with the good ones. As I value my peace of mind above the money I can make from my unwanted photo gear, I no longer sell online.
My friend still uses Ebay to dispose of photo bits (cheap cameras and small items in generally crappy condition), but he lists his cameras and lenses as Not Working/For Parts even when they are fully operational. He adjusts his auction prices accordingly but as he says, Ebay sales are often so inflated anyway that he usually makes up any loss.
In the end he sold his G2 and other quality items via a Melbourne photo dealer on a consignment/commission agreement. His advice to me was as follows.
Look for a reputable dealer. Ask around for advice from buyers you know. Never sell directly to the dealer. Offer it on consignment/commission only. Decide beforehand how much you (sensibly) want for your equipment and hold out for your price before the commission. Get it all in writing. if the dealer hesitates, find another.
I'm now doing a last 'cull' of film cameras at home, and in October I'll go the way of a consignment with the camera shop. Ebay was a mistake I won't be repeating, ever.
Jason Schneider
the Camera Collector
Jewel-like Kodak Signet 35?
Jewel-like Kodak Signet 35?
I'm glad you like your Kodak Signet 35--I like mine too and I've got 3 of 'em. It has a superb 44mm f/3.5 Ektar lens, a rudimentary manually cocked shutter, a decent rangefinder that focuses down to 2 feet, and a fairly primitive manual release frame spacing system and counter. Check the lens for haze and fungus, a fairly common problem. I wouldn't describe it's chunky post deco styling and heavy cast alloy body as "jewel-like" but it is pretty cute and it's smaller than it looks in pictures. It's an affordable classic that can take great pictures so run some film through it and have fun.
Jewel-like Kodak Signet 35?
I'm glad you like your Kodak Signet 35--I like mine too and I've got 3 of 'em. It has a superb 44mm f/3.5 Ektar lens, a rudimentary manually cocked shutter, a decent rangefinder that focuses down to 2 feet, and a fairly primitive manual release frame spacing system and counter. Check the lens for haze and fungus, a fairly common problem. I wouldn't describe it's chunky post deco styling and heavy cast alloy body as "jewel-like" but it is pretty cute and it's smaller than it looks in pictures. It's an affordable classic that can take great pictures so run some film through it and have fun.
raydm6
Yay! Cameras! 🙈🙉🙊┌( ಠ_ಠ)┘ [◉"]
You're right. I got carried away. But I did say:
Thanks again for the tips.
Thanks again for the tips.
Ambro51
Collector/Photographer
Here’s a BIG Tip. “getting it past the Wife”: always Tell her “something”....packages that arrived unexplained are always suspect. Never act too excited. Show her the absolute cheapest example in the worst shape on eBay...the lowest priced one you Didn’t buy. Buy HER a camera now and then. A surprise gift I bought my Wife was a nice Chinon Bellami.....she Loves it! That allowed me to make a few buys for myself. Try and involve the Wife in some way with your cameras. Good Luck!! A Happy Wife makes for a Happy Camera Collector. (Oh Yes another tip is never Yell and Scream after you drop a .001” screw inside an unascesable area)
Vince Lupo
Barely Known
Out to Lunch
Menteur
Indeed. A global online marketplace automatically excludes exceptional deals. Some deals can be found on regional or local sites, instead. This said, kids comment that eBay is for 'old people'. Today's internet generation has found many other online venues to get what they want. Cheers, OtL
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
I usually say there's just a used filter or camera case inside the package - and open it in private...
Chris