kiemchacsu
Well-known
I am about buy raw ingredients to make this fixer;
I am wondering if any of these chemicals is toxic, any cautions to be prevented,
thanks:
I am wondering if any of these chemicals is toxic, any cautions to be prevented,
thanks:
Freakscene
Obscure member
I’m assuming you understand about water.
Sodium thiosulfate MDS: https://www.merckmillipore.com/AU/e...EM-106512?ReferrerURL=https://duckduckgo.com/
Sodium sulfite MDS: https://www.fishersci.com/msds?productName=AC219270010&productDescription=..
Sodium bisulfite MDS: https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/21001.htm
There is no significant mixture toxicity - i.e. the sum of the parts is not substantially more toxic than each of its components.
Mmake your own decision about exposure - are you making 1L, 5L or 10,000L? How will you weigh and mix them? Don’t breathe it in, get it on your skin, or drink the solution. These chemicals are toxic, but everything is toxic, and these are permitted to be used as food additives, so they can’t be that bad.
Marty
Sodium thiosulfate MDS: https://www.merckmillipore.com/AU/e...EM-106512?ReferrerURL=https://duckduckgo.com/
Sodium sulfite MDS: https://www.fishersci.com/msds?productName=AC219270010&productDescription=..
Sodium bisulfite MDS: https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/21001.htm
There is no significant mixture toxicity - i.e. the sum of the parts is not substantially more toxic than each of its components.
Mmake your own decision about exposure - are you making 1L, 5L or 10,000L? How will you weigh and mix them? Don’t breathe it in, get it on your skin, or drink the solution. These chemicals are toxic, but everything is toxic, and these are permitted to be used as food additives, so they can’t be that bad.
Marty
kiemchacsu
Well-known
thanks for your information :
the first 2 are considered no toxic;
I was instructed to replace Sodium bisulfite with "Citric Acid" and Citric Acid is not that toxic either.
Code:
FORMULA #132
Kodak F-24
Nonhardening Acid Fixer
Fixer without hardener is preferred for prints that are to be toned. Prints without hardener
are also easier to wash and retouch with spotting fluid.
F-24 works well with pyro negatives, although care must be taken to avoid scratching
while wet. The reason F-24 is a good choice for pyro is that it is less acidic, using sodium
bisulfite instead of the stronger 28% glacial acetic acid found in many formulas. Fixers that are
too acid tend to remove desirable pyro stain. Hardener is not necessary with pyro since the
developer creates its own hardening effect.
Water at 125F/52C, 500.0 ml
Sodium thiosulfate, 240.0 g
Sodium sulfite, 10.0 g
*Sodium bisulfite, 25.0 g
Water to make 1.0 liter
* Substituting 22.0 grams of citric acid for the bisulfite will eliminate much of the odor associated
with fixers.
FILM: Film should be clear in 5 minutes and fully fixed in 10. Discard when the clearing time
is close to 10 minutes.
PAPER: Use the two-bath method, 5 minutes in each bath. Do not use this fixer for the second
bath if you intend to tone the print.