LightPix Labs FlashQ Q20 Flash

https://www.lightpixlabs.com/pages/q20

Will this flash work on a Lomo LC-A 120 in particular, let alone any other older camera with a hot shoe?

Thank you in advance,

Andreas


Thanks for bringing this up, seems like a great little flash. Hope they make a more powerful version in the future.
Seems to me that this is made exactly to work with anything with a hot shoe. There are a few cameras though that won't trigger a flash unless they're set to some specific mode. I don't know if the LC-A falls into this category.
It's not a ttl or auto thristor flash. You need to set its power and your aperture manually. Google "strobist" if these concepts are new to you.
 
Seems to me that this is made exactly to work with anything with a hot shoe.

Thanks retinax,

That’s the confirmation I was looking for.
One is on the way. I’ll let you know how it works out.

Andreas
 
I'm going to buy one soon to use with my Ricoh GRIIIx. It seems like it works well as long as you aren't expecting anything automatic. I can't see why it wouldn't work with a Leica or the Lomo.
 
Hmm, I was going to start a thread about this flash even though I know several members would view my question with various degrees of derision and shock etc. (wait until you read the question, you may also do that, lol).

Anyway, I was wondering if it's possible to use the "modeling" light a bit like a studio flash's modeling light (or how I think a studio flash's modeling light) works, that is, set it's power to give the required result in the viewfinder and then set the flash to fire at the same power setting and get the same results on the print as you had in the viewfinder? I'm thinking mostly to just use the flash as a fill-in or catchlight in eyes etc.
 
Hmm, I was going to start a thread about this flash even though I know several members would view my question with various degrees of derision and shock etc. (wait until you read the question, you may also do that, lol).

Anyway, I was wondering if it's possible to use the "modeling" light a bit like a studio flash's modeling light (or how I think a studio flash's modeling light) works, that is, set it's power to give the required result in the viewfinder and then set the flash to fire at the same power setting and get the same results on the print as you had in the viewfinder? I'm thinking mostly to just use the flash as a fill-in or catchlight in eyes etc.
With my studio flashes (White Lightning X 3200's) the modeling light is helpful for visualizing what the lighting will look like, but it is pretty useless for determining exposure. I'm not familiar with the flash you're asking about, but I would be surprised if the modeling light will be that helpful with exposure determination. Fill flash can be tricky to figure out, and either a decent digital camera or a flash meter are very helpful for this.
 
Thanks for the info Cascadilla. I had hooped I'd be able to use fill flash without doing the sums, but now I'm thinking maybe I could just use the modeling light as a fill for photos that aren't too fay way?
 
Be aware that this flash may not fire properly with film Ms. They were supposed to have updated the triggers to be compatible, but I haven't heard anything since they told me that (which was years ago). Fires fine on the Q and digital Ms in my experience though.
 
Thanks for the info Cascadilla. I had hooped I'd be able to use fill flash without doing the sums, but now I'm thinking maybe I could just use the modeling light as a fill for photos that aren't too fay way?
It would depend on the color temperature of the modeling light--my studio flash modeling lights are 3200 ° K and the flash is 5000° K. Daylight is 5000-6000 ° K so if the modeling light is contributing in a meaningful way to the exposure the color temperature of the modeling light needs to be the same as the ambient light. If it isn't then getting good color on color film could be difficult to achieve.
 
Thanks for the info Cascadilla.

I've been thinking about using one of those little on-camera light panel things, and while they seem to fit the bill as they have variable power and variable colour-temperature output, it seems many/most/all of them flicker and this can cause banding on the photo. Am I right in thinking that this would only show up with fast shutter speeds such as 1/1000th?
 
Thanks for the info Cascadilla.

I've been thinking about using one of those little on-camera light panel things, and while they seem to fit the bill as they have variable power and variable colour-temperature output, it seems many/most/all of them flicker and this can cause banding on the photo. Am I right in thinking that this would only show up with fast shutter speeds such as 1/1000th?
I'm not really familiar with these, so I hope someone else chimes in. If you do get one make sure you test it at different shutter speeds to know how it will work.
 
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